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Lord Lvnne's Choice. By the Author J I 

of "Dcra Thorne " 10 

Anthony Trcllope s Autobiography.. 
Little Don-it. By Charles Dickens. . . 
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121 Maid of Athens. By Justin Mc- 

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By the author of " Dora 
Thome"..... 10 

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176 



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188 Idonea. By Anne Beale 20 

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190 Romance of a Black Veil. By 

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191 Harry Lorrequer. By Charles 

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192 At the World's Mercy. By F. 

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222 The Sun-Maid. Bv Miss Grant 15 

223 A Sailor's Sweetheart. By W. 
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224 The Arundel Motto. Mary Cecil 
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225 The Giaut's Robe. ByF.Anstey 15 

226 Friendship. By " Ouida " 20 

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228 Princess Napraxine. By " Oui- 
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230 Dorothy Forster. By Walter 
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cover.] 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA II1E. 



By CAPT. FREeTbURNABY. 



NEW YORK: 
GEORGE MUNRO, PUBLISHER, 
17 to 27 Vandewater Street, 




r 



PREFACE. 



It has been said that a man often writes his book first, his preface 
last. The author ot this work is no exception to the general rule. 
These volumes contain an account of a journey on horseback through 
Asia Minor. 1 was five months in that country, and traversed a dis- 
trict extending over 2,000 miles. My limited leave ot absence pre- 
vented me from staying more than a lew days at the important towns 
which lay on the route. 

Although unable I o learn so much as was to be desired of the ways 
and mode of life ot the various inhabitants of Anatolia, 1 had the 
opportunity of talking to every class of society with reference to the 
questions of the day — the Conference, and the impending war with 
Russia. Pashas, farmers, peasants, all of them had something to 
say about these subjects. 

I met people of many different races: Turks, Armenians, Greeks, 
Turcomans, Circassians, Kurds, and Persians. They almost in- 
variably received me very hospitably. 

The remarks which were made by the Mohammedans about the 
Christians, and by the Armenians about the Turks and Russians, 
sometimes interested me. 1 have thought that they might interest 
the public. 

The impression formed in my own mind as to the probable result 
Df the war between Russia and Turkey was decidedly unfavorable 
to the latter power. Since this work has been written the soldiers 
of the Crescent have gallantly withstood their foe. My reasons for 
arriving at the above-mentioned opinion will be found in this 
volume. They merely contain a sort of verbal photograph— if the 
reader will allow me to use the expression— of what 1 saw and heard 
during the journey. 

A few official reports, referring to the treatment of the members 
Df the United Greek^ Christians by the Russian authorities will be 
seen in the Appendices, and amongst other matter a document 
brought to England by two Circassian chiefs. It relates to the in- 
vasion of Circassi a by the Russians. There are also some march 
routes and descriptions of various districts, taken and translated 
from different military works. 

THE AUTHOR. 

Somerby Hall, Leicestershire, 
/September 1877. 



PREFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION. 



In another page of this work, written twelve months ago, will be 
found the following lines: " The Tzar has thrown down the gauntlet 
to England by taking action on his own part against the Sultan. We 
should accept the challenge and draw our swords for Turkey." A 
year has elapsed since these sentences were penned. England did 
not declare war. The Russian forces have marched almost to the 
gates of Constantinople: the Treaty of Berlin has been the result. 

By this treaty Rouinania has been rewarded for her cod duct in 
saviug the honor of the Tzar's forces and enabling them to take 
Plevna, by having to give back to his Majesty the Emperor of Rus- 
sia that portion of the territory of Bessarabia* which was taken from 
Russia under the Treaty of Paris, 1856. The Sublime Porte cedes 
to the Russian Empire, in Asia, the territories of Ardahan, Kars, 
and Batoum, with the port of Batoum.f The provinces of Bosnia 
and Herzegovinaf are to be occupied and administered by Austro- 
Hungary. 

The Tzar, who solemnly assured Lord Augustus Lof tus, in an in- 
terview in Livadia, that he made this war merely for the sake of the 
Christians in the East, has again shown the world how little reliance 
can be placed upon a Muscovite sovereign's word of honor. Kot 
one drop of English blood has been shed. Peace has been brought 
back to us by our plenipotentiaries from the Congress of Berlin. 

But is it to be a durable peace? This is the question which now 
occupies men's minds. We may rest assured of one thing, which is, 
that it will last till Russia has had time to collect herself for another 
effort, and no longer. The losses incurred directly and indirectly 
by the Muscovites during the late war will probably keep them quiet 
in Europe for the next five years — in Central Asia perhaps for two. 
In the meantime the Russian agents, who have been doing their best 
to sow disaffection amongst the Bulgarians, will find fresh occupa- 
tion in Armenia. Great Britain, by her convention with the Sultan, 
is bound to protect his Asiatic dominions, provided lie carries out 
certain reforms and governs his subjects with justice. It will be 
the object of the Russian Government to prevent the Sultan carrying 
out his share of the contract. Agents from Erivan and Ardahan 
will be constantly trying to stir up enmity between the Kurds and 
the Armenians. We may hear of Armenian girls carried away from 
their homes by Kurdish chieftains who are subjects of the Porte; 
and perhaps shall read of Armenian massacres, for Slavonic emis- 

* See Article 45 of Treaty of Berlin, 
t See Article 58 of Treaty of Berlin. 
$ See Article 25 of Treaty of Berlin. 

m 



PREFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION. t 

saries will promise the Christians in Anatolia everything they ask 
tor, provided that they will only take up arms against the Turk. 

All these horrors in prospect for Armenia would undoubtedly 
ensue, i.e., should our government allow the convention with the 
Sultan to become a cipher. Our protectorate of Asia Minor, to 
guard our interests as well as those of the natives, must be real, and 
not exist only in name. A court of appeal in the various districts 
of Anatolia, presided over by Europeans, and available for Moham- 
medans as well as for the Christian subjects of the Porte, will be a 
step in the right direction. A well-organized gendarmerie under 
British officers should replace the utterly inefficient Zaptiehs. 
Finally, and most impoitant of all, the military commands in 
Anatolia, in particular those at Erzeroum, Van, and Dierbekir, 
should be held by Englishmen. If this were done, and with a stand- 
ing army ot 30,000 Turks, which could be capable of expansion to 
100,000 in the event of war, we can afford to laugh at Russia in 
spite ot her possession of Kars, Ardahan, and Batoum. Should she 
attempt to push on southward to Persia, we could always threaten 
her communications; if she were to attempt an invasion in Hin- 
dostan through Afghanistan, she would find an enemy ready to ad- 
vance upon her rear. 

The amount of money now wasted in the collection of the taxes 
in Asia Minor would go a long way toward paying the expenses of 
the Turkish army in Anatolia. The fact of its officers in the higher 
grades being Englishmen would deter, to a great degree, Russian 
agents from intriguing with the Kurds and the disaffected subjects 
of the Porte, llie latter would find out that a strong arm was at 
hand, willing and able to punish them for their crimes, and that the 
impunity which they have hitherto enjoyed could no longer attend 
them. 

Once a state of security for life and property exists in Anatolia, 
and railways are constructed there, the amount of wealth in minerals 
as well as corn, which can be exported, will go far toward alleviat- 
ing the present slackness in British trade. The riches of ancient 
Greece and Rome were derived in a vast degree from Asia Minor. 
The natural resources of the land are by no means exhausted. It 
only requires English enterprise and capital for Anatolia to become 
again one of the wealthiest countries in the world. 

The position to be taken up by Austria, in Bosnia and the Eerze- 
govina, is a further check against the ambition of Russia, so far as 
Constantinople is concerned^ Fadeef, a Russian general, wrote with 
great force in his pamphlet on the Eastern Question, published in 
St. Petersburg in 1869: "It depends upon Austria not only to 
restrain Russia from an open intei vention in the Eastern Question, 
but it is in her power also To hurl the forces of a European coalition 
against our Western frontier. She can at her convenience shield 
Turkey by an armed neutrality, as in 1854, or open a road to the 
Vistula by revolutionizing Poland, as she threatened to do in 1856. 
I , Such a part belongs exclusively to Austria, and her position in Europe 
is principally founded upon it. In two quarters ot vital importance 
to Russia— the Eastern and the Polish — Austria can be both the 
shield and the weapon of the hostile part of Europe, according as it 



8 



PKEFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITIOX. 



may serve her interests. It may require but little patience to see 
how this double part will be played out. " 

We have had the opportunity of seeing how Austria has acted in 
connection with the late war — a war indeed which need never have 
taken place, but with her sanction. However, there are wheels 
within wheels in European politics. It is as yet impossible lor us 
to know how much pressure was brought to bear upon the chief of 
the House of Hapsburg by the German emperor to secure his neu- 
trality. At the same time it was evident at the outbreak of hostili- 
ties between Turkey and Russia, by the conversation of various 
German officials of high standing in this country, that it was their 
desire to engage Great Britain in an alliance with' the Porte against 
the Tzar. Whether this was clone under the beliel that Russia was 
much stronger than she proved herself to be, and that she would be 
more than a match for Turkey and Great Britain combined, it is 
difficult to say; but it was curious to notice how — immediately after 
the Russian reverses at Plevna— the German agents changed their 
tone, and were all for Great Britain's neutrality and for peace. 

There was a suspicion on the part of some Englishmen that, if 
we had thrown in our lot with the Sultan, Germany would have 
taken the opportunity to invade Holland, or would possibly have 
picked another quarrel with France. This, coupled with the agita- 
tion promoted by Mr. Gladstone and his friends for party purposes, 
was the means of checking any decisive action on the part of pur 
nation. It is impossible for a divided England to declare war; and 
Messrs. Gladstone, Bright, and Lowe had undoubtedly succeeded 
in dividing the opinions of our countrymen at the time of which 1 
write. If the country had been united, as at present, on the Eastern 
Question, and the Russian Government had been informed thut war 
with Turkey meant war with England, 1 firmly believe that the 
hostilities would never have commenced. Again: if, after the first 
reverses at Plevna, and when the Emperor of Russia had to write 
an imploring letter to Prince Charles of Roumania, beseeching the 
assistance of his troops, our government had declared war against 
the Tzar, we could have put the Eastern Question at rest for another 
fifty years. English blood would have been spilt, it is true, but 
drops in comparison with the oceans that will have to be shed before 
the problem is finally solved, as to which of the two countries is to 
be mistress of the East, Great Britain or Russia. It has been said 
that there is room enough in Asia for Muscovites as well as English- 
men, and so there would be if ambition were not the dominant 
passion in the world. 

The Tzar has shown his hand very plainly of late, by the Rus- 
sian military preparations in Central Asia, and by his endeavor to 
establish friendly relations with Shere Ali. That Oriental potentate 
is ready to play fast and loose with either side. At the present mo- 
ment it would appear that his fears, if not his sympathies, incline 
him toward the Tzar. Now Eastern nations have little in common 
with European powers. The differences in religions, habits, and 
customs, make it impossible that there should be much sympathy 
between them. A government to be respected in Asia must be f eared. 

The nearer the Muscovite forces have approached Herat, the more 
alarmed, and at the same time the more friendly, Shere Ali has be- 



PREFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION. 



9 



come toward Russia. It will never do to allow this state of things 
to last. It would be fatal to our prestige in the d or th west provinces 
of India, it Russians are to be received by Shere Ali at Cabul, whilst 
Englishmen are rebuffed. An open enemy is better than a waver- 
ing friend. If the actual sovereign of Afghanistan will not decide 
in our favor, we must replace him on the throne by some other 
Afghan prince who will not be a tool in the hands of Russia. 

This may lead us into a war with Afghanistan. The contrary 
policy, that of masterly inactivity, wili give Russia in time the high- 
lands which guard the entrance to India. These we ought to hold 
ourselves, or at all events see them in the possession of natives on 
whom we can rely. It is ridiculous to think that at the present mo- 
ment English officers can not ride half a day's march from Pesbawer 
without an escort, ortravel to Cabul without the risk of having their 
throats cut. It Shere Ali can not govern his own people properly, it 
is quite time that we did it tor him, and before the Russians put it 
Hit of our power to do so. 

The Gladstonian and the peace-at-any-price party will talk of the 
sacrifice of human life in our last campaign in Afghanistan, and the 
probable cost of a war in that country, in order to deter England 
from any fresh military operations in that direction. We shall be 
told by Mr. Lowe and his faction that India is not worth fighting 
for, and be greeted with the cry, "Perish India!" However, En- 
glishmen have had enough of that sort of policy, and if the govern- 
ment find it necessary to use strong measures to bring Shere Ali to 
bis senses, they will have plenty ot supporters. The okf saying, "He 
who is not with us is against us," applies perhaps more forcibly to the 
Ameer of Afghanistan than to any other of the Eastern potentates 
whose territory adjoins our empire. 

The Tzar's forces in Central Asia, by the latest accounts, have 
been moving through Bokhara. Merve lies virtually at their feet. 
Should it ever be determined by the Russian generals to advance 
upon Merve, the first news we shall probably receive in this country 
will be that Merve and the adjacent territory have been annexed to 
Russia. Jfrom Merve to Herat there are no natural obstacles to im- 
pede an army's march. In the meantime we also learn that some 
movement has been intended in the direction of Balkh. 

The rumors that have reached us from Central Asia have been of 
a very disquieting nature. Owing to our having no official agents 
or consuls in those regions, we are utterly devoid of any news save 
that which leaks out through Russian channels. This may be true, 
or it may be purposely disseminated in order to deceive. A British 
representative ought to be permanently established at Herat. If 
Shere Ali remarks, as he has hitherto done, that he can not be re- 
sponsible for the life ot an Englishman in that city, he must be 
clearly given to understand that his throne will tall, should the 
slightest insult be offered to our envoy. Once the Afghans see that 
we are strong enough to enforce our threats, there will be no talk 
amongst them ot throwing in their lot with the Muscovites. At the 
same time, it would do no harm it an account were published in the 
Afghan language of how the Roumanians have been rewarded by 
the Tzar for saving the honor of his armies. 

We must never forget that the bait held out by Russian agents to 



10 



PKEFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION". 



Shere Ali's horsemen, the ioot in the rich cities of British India, is 
a very templing one. We can not offer such a glittering prize. 80 
far as Central Asia is concerned, Petro-Alexandrovisk, Tashkent, 
and Samarcand, would, comparatively speaking, afford little booty. 
However, we are aware that, ere this, an army brought from the 
East has conquered nearly the whole of the West. With our money 
and powers of organization, we could recruit three million soldiers 
from British India in a very short time, if required. The offer of 
the loot in Moscow and St. Petersburg might prove attractive to Af- 
ghans as well as Sepoys. 

In the East, a policy of masterly inactivity is a fatal one. The 
natives understand the policy that strikes. They laugh at a govern- 
ment which gives an enemy time to make his preparations and then 
declare war. We should meet the Russians in their forward march; 
otherwise, the same arms which we might now employ will one day 
be used against ourselves. At the same time, it must be remembered 
that Afghanistan and Persia are not the only countries through 
which roads lead to India. 

At the commencement of this century a Chinese and Tibetan force 
advanced into Nepal, having crossed the Himalayas, and made its 
way into the valley tiT Nawakat, only one day's march from Kath- 
manda, the capital of Nepal. It then forced the Gurkhas to sign a 
humiliating treaty. Now Nepal overhangs, as it were, five hundred 
miles of an open frontier, in the center of the Gangetic valley. The 
mere appearance of an invading force in that direction would un- 
doubtedly stir up those sparks of rebellion which still smolder in 
the courts of some of the native princes of India. 

The wise action of our government in first of all assuming the 
Protectorate of Asia Minor, and secondly in occupying Cyprus, has 
made us more powerful in respect to our Eastern empire than we 
have ever been before. Should Russia determine to advance toward 
India, our vicinity to the Caucasus will enable us to attack the Mus- 
covites in one of the most disaffected parts of their empire, without 
considering the moral as well as actual force we shall be able to bring 
to bear upon Persia, should she be tempted lo ally herself with the 
Czar. Article No. 60 of the Treaty of Berlin, which gives to Persia 
Kotoor (a district which I show in this work, has been for some time 
the scene of Muscovite intrigue), was an attempt to buy over the 
Shah to Ihe ideas of Prince GortchakofE. It would have also left 
one of the passes into Turkey open to a Russian force marching 
from Eri van. Fortunately, this movement on the part of the St. 
Petersburg Cabinet has been checkmated by Lords Beaconsfield and 
Salisbury. Our Protectorate of Asia Minor, provided it is only par- 
ried out in its integrity, will thoroughly thwart any hostile action 
from the Russo-Persian quarter. 

Next, as to Cyprus. Cyprus, as is shown in this work, commands 
Syria; it is the key to Egypt. It affords one more link between 
Great Britain and her Eastern dominions, and will be useful as a 
check against Russian aggression, and consequently against Russian 
atrocities. But Mr. Gladstone is not satisfied. Mr. Gladstone, who, 
owing to his policy of agitation with reference to the crimes com- 
mitted by the Turks in Bulgaria, is the main cause of the war hav- 
ing taken place. Mr. Gladstone, who, whilst calling for vengeance 



PKEFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION. 11 

on the Turkish officials for their cruelty and oppression, and put- 
ting himself forward as the champion of suffering humanity, is now 
silent as to ths loathsome cruelties perpetrated by the Russian forces 
in Bulgaria. Mr. Gladstone, who, unlike Lord Shaftesbury, is too 
cowardly to come forward and denounce the power, to which he 
would have had us extend the right hand of fellowship. Mr. Glad- 
stone, who lashed our people's minds into fury by his eloquent dec- 
lamation against the Turk, in his pamphlet, called " Lessons on 
Massacre," and who now has not a word to say about the awful 
crimes unveiled by the Rhodope Commission. The crimes of Nero, 
the massacre of St. Bartholomew, are as nothing in comparison to 
(he enormities, the horrors, the wholesale butcheries, the atrocities, 
the infernal cruelties committed by Russians and Bulgarians. 
IVomen, their children still unborn, have been mutilated and cut to 
pieces; babes have been transfixed with lances — their agonies being 
the delight o£ Bulgarian Christians: but Mr. Gladstone, the senti- 
mentalist, is silent. Mr. Lowe, the rhetorician, is indifferent, and 
Mr. Bright, the philanthropist, holds his tongue. 

Many of our fellow-countrymen have already passed their verdict 
upon the conduct of these three politicians: future historians will 
do the rest. 



INTRODUCTION. 



! It was the autumn of 1876; 1 had not as yet determined where to 
spend my winter leave of absence. There was a great deal oi ex- 
citement in England; the news of some terrible massacres in Bul- 
garia had thoroughly aroused the public. The indignation against 
the perpetrators of these awful crimes became still more violent, 
when it was remembered that the Turkish Government had repudi- 
ated its loans, and that more than a nundred millions sterling had 
gone forever from the pockets of the British tax-payer. This was 
very annoying. 

We were on the eve of an important election.* Some people de- 
clared that our government might have prevented the massacres in 
Bulgaria; others, that an ostentatious protection had been shown to 
Turkey, and that Europe had been wantonly disturbed through the 
instrumentality of our ministry. 

Illustrious statesmen, who were solacing themselves after the toils 
of the session, by meandering through the rural districts on bicycles, 
or by felling timber in sylvan groves, hurried up to town. 

Two letters appeared in the columns of the leading journal signed 
by gentlemen belonging to the Church of England, saying that they 
had seen Christians impaled by the Turks. 

Pamphlets were written and speeches made in which the subjects 
of the Sultan were held up to universal execration. Several distin- 
guished Russians, who happened at that time to be in England, threw 
oil on the flame which had been kindled. 

Ladies, like Madame de Lievens, of whom the late Duke of Wel- 
lington wrote,f went from salon to salon and extolled the Chiistian 
motives of the Tzar. This feminine eloquence proved too much for 
a few of our legislators, who, like Lord Grey in the year 1829, en- 
tertained some old opposition opinions of Mr. Fox's that "the Turks 
ought to be driven out of Europe." 

f It was difficult to arrive at the truth amidst all the turmoil which 
prevailed. Were the Turks such awful scoundrels? Had the rev- 
erend gentleman, to whom I have already alluded, really seen Chris- 
tians imr. aled, or were these clergymen under the influence of a hal- 
lucination? There was one way to satisfy my own mind as to 
whether the subjects of the Porte were so cruel as they had been de- 
scribed. 1 determined to travel in Asia Minor, for there 1 should be 
with Turks who are far removed from any European supervision. 
Should 1 not behold Christians impaled and wriggling like worms on 

* Buckinghamshire. 

t Vide Correspondence of the late Duke of Wellington, letter to the Earl of 
Aberdeen, dated Walmer Castle, July 29th, 1829. 

,~_,^»12) 



INTRODUCTION. 



13 



hooks in every high-road of Armenia, or find an Inquisition and a 
weekly auto dafe, the amusement of the Mohammedans at Van? 

Judging from the pamphlets which were continually being written 
about the inhuman nature of the Turks, this was not at all improb- 
able. 1 should also have the opportunity of seeing something of the 
country between the Russo-Turkish frontier and Scutari. 

It was the beginning of November. My leave of absence would 
commence toward the middle of the month. It was time to make 
preparations for the journey. On this occasion I determined to take 
an English servant, a faithful fellow, who had been with me in 
many parts of the world. 

Before leaving London 1 thought that it might be as well to write 
to the Turkish Embassador, and ask him if there would be any ob- 
jection on the part of the authorities in Constantinople to my pro- 
posed journey in Asia Minor, at the same time saying that in the 
event of my obtaining the permission to travel in Anatolia, I should 
be much obliged to his excellency if he could supply me with the 
requisite passport. To this letter, I received by return of post, the 
most courteous reply. 1 was informed that every Englishman could 
travel where he liked in the Turkish Empire, and that nothing was 
required but the ordinary foreign office passport, one of which his 
excellency inclosed. 

In the meantime I read all the books I could find which treated of 
Asia Minor. According to the works of those travelers who have 
been to Armenia in the winter, the cold would be very great. In- 
deed Tournefort found the wells in Erzeroum frozen over in July. 
Milner in his " Bistory of the Turkish Empire," remarks of tne 
mountainous district in Armenia, " Throughout this high region no 
one thinks, except under most urgent necessity, of traveling for 
eight months in the year, owing to the snow, ice, and intense cold." 

Regimental duty detained me in England during the summer. I 
could only avail myself of the winter for my journey. I had ex- 
perienced the cold of the Kirghiz steppes in December and January, 
1876, and was of opinion that the clothes which would keep a man 
alive in the deserts of Tartary would more than protect him against 
the climate of Kurdistan. For shooting purposes, 1 determined to 
take a little single Express rifle, made by Henry, and a No, 12 
smooth-bore. A small stock of medicines was put in my saddle- 
bags, in the event of any illness on the road. 

My arrangements were completed. 1 was ready to start. 



m MEMORIAM. 



It may seem stiange to the general public thus introducing into a 
book a dedicatory chapter after five thousand copies of the work are 
in circulation, and it has gone through six editions. The author's 
excuse must be that since these passages were written he has lost his 
fellow-traveler and faithful friend. Wishing to leave some lasting 
tribute to his memory, this chapter has been written. 

George Radford, the subject of these remarks, commenced life 
as a sailor-boy. He grew rapidly, and was soon six feet in height. 
One day he came to London. His smart appearance attracted the 
attention of a recruiting corporal. A short time afterward, George 
Radford found himself a trooper in the Royal Horse Guards. He 
gained the good- will of his comrades and officers. Whenever there 
was any extra work to be done, he was one of the first to volunteer 
assistance; and, strong himself, he was always ready to protect the 
weak against the strong. 

Years rolled by. George Radford would have been promoted to 
the rank of non-commissioned -officer, but, in soldiers' language, he 
was no scholar. The old spirit of adventure, which had prompted 
him when a lad to go to sea, had not died away. I wanted a serv- 
ant. He knew that 1 liked travel. He applied for the situation. I 
took him. 

1 will pass over the numerous journeys in, so to speak, civilized 
countries, where he accompanied me. It is now about five years ago 
since General Kaufmann commenced his march upon Khiva. I 
wished, if possible, to be with theKhivans at the time of the attack. 
When on my road, 1 caught a typhoid fever at Naples, and for four 
long months was nursed by my faithful servant. That same autumn 
the Carlist war broke out. The editor of the " Times " wanted a 
military correspondent, and asked me it I would go to Don Carlos's 
head-qiiarteis. 1 consented. At first 1 tried to dissuade Radford 
from accompanying me by pointing out that he had a wife and 
children — that he might be* shot. These arguments had no effect. 
" Must die some day, sir," was his reply; " may be run over by an 
omnibus at home, 1 nursed you through your fever. You will let 
me go, won't you?" 

Many a risk the poor fellow ran in that campaign. He was under 
tire at the battles of Alio, Dicastillo, Yiana, and Maneru, besides 
being present during the siege of Tolosa and the capture of Estella. 
Always cheery, he was equally at home in the trenches before 
Tolosa, or cooking a beefsteak for Don Carlos's staff in the redoubt 
at Dicastillo. 

On our way back to France, and when crossing the mountains 
near Vera, Radford had a very narrow escape for his life. There 

QM 



m MEMOEIAM. 



15 



were two paths winding round a rock. They overhung a mountain 
stream. The lower path was some fifty teet from the water. The 
rivulet dashed over the pebbles below. It was in no place more 
than a foot deep. The upper path was about thirty yards above the 
stream. The side nearest the precipice was broken away. 

To my surprise, the guide who accompanied us chose the topmost 
track. He was followed by Baron von Wedell, the correspondent 
of the " Cologne Gazette"; then came Mr. O'Shea, on the staff of 
the " Standard." As 1 reached the upper path, thinking that the 
lower one was the safer of the two, 1 called out to Radford, who 
was about fifty yards behind me: '* "Sou had better take the under- 
most track." He did so. A minute or two later, a sound as of 
some falling rocks reached our ears. 1 looked in the direction of 
the noise, and saw Radford on his back; his foot was fast in the 
stirrup, the horse with only his fore-feet on the path— the animal's 
body half over the precipice, and the ground crumbling away be- 
neath his exertions to free himself. 1 jumped off my own animal 
and drew my hunting-knife to cut Radford's stirrup leather and free 
his foot; but, before 1 could reach him, by a frantic effort he had 
managed to extricate himself. Almost as he did so, the struggling 
horse disappeared over the edge of the precipice. A dull thud 
reached our ears as the poor brute's body struck against the rocks 
below. 

" Had better go down and get my cloak — it is strapped to the sad- 
dle — had 1 nol, sir?" inquired Radford, a little exhausted by his 
struggle to release himself, but with his usual air of composure. 
" \es," 1 replied. Baron von Wedell and Mr. O'Shea remained on 
the path, looking at the horse, which lay on its back on the rocks 
below us, perfectly motionless. My servant commenced unstrap- 
ping his waterproof from the saddle— the animal began giving some 
signs of lite. 

" Bonner Wetter, he is not killed!" remarked my German com- 
panion. The baron was right. The horse, after a few minutes, ap- 
peared to recover from his stupor, and endeavored to rise; presently 
he did so. Later on 1 brought him back to London — Radford ever 
afterward taking the keenest interest in the animal's welfare— a 
horse which, according to him, had fallen the height of Knights- 
bridge barracks, and had been none the worse for the tumble. 

Sleeping out in the open during the Carlist campaign had some- 
what impaired my servant's health. 1 did not let him accompany 
me during my next two journeys to Central Africa and Khiva. 
However, just before 1 started for the travels related in these vol- 
umes, he so entreated to be allowed to accompany me that 1 consent- 
ed. In November, 1877, and when the Russo-Turkish war was at 
its height, he again went with me to the East— this time not to Asia 
Minor, but to European Turkey and the Balkans— never grumbling, 
no matter how great were the hardships and privations which he 
had to undergo. The only thiug which could make him lose his 
temper was the idleness of a Turkish servant called Osman, and who 
was just as lazy as the individual of the same name mentioned in 
these volumes. 

Radford was present during the memorable battle of Tashkesan, 
when General Baker, with 2,400 Turks, proved more than a match 



16 



Itf MEMOBIAM. 



for thirty battalions of the Russian Guard, the choicest troops of the 
Tzar, and hard my servant worked throughout that livelong day, 
carrying water to the wounded, and aiding the doctors in their work 
of humanity. 

The battle of Tashkesan was certainly the most brilliant action 
during the campaign. As on this occasion the Turks were led by 
an Englishman, it may perhaps be considered a sufficient excuse tor 
my relating very briefly what occurred during the memorable fight. 

It was the last day of the year 1877. General Baker, who com- 
manded a small Turkish division, had received orders to cover the 
retreat of Shakir Pasha's army from Kamarli. This retrograde 
movement had become necessary owing to General Gourko having 
crossed the Balkans and reached Curiae, thus virtually turning 
Shaliir Pasha's left flank, and threatening his communications with 
Sofia. The village of Tashkesan lies on the main road between 
Sofia and Kamarli. It is about six miles from the last-named vil- 
lage. Two mountains in the shape of saddles slope down toward 
the Tashkesan road, which runs through a sort of gorge for a few 
hundred yards, and then debouches on to the plain of Kamarli. 
Shakir Pasha's left flank was threatened by 30,000 Russians under 
the command of Gourko. At the same time, he had opposite to 
him, and intrenched before Kamarli, a hostile force estimated at 
about 22,000 men. 

Shakir Pasha's corps d'armee itself originally— that is, on the first 
ot November, 1877— consisted of about 20,000 Turks. Owing to 
the intense cold and want of medical stores, this force was continu- 
ally diminishing — some days as many as 350 men being rendered 
unfit for service, owing to disease, frost-bites, and other causes. 
At the time of whichTl wrote, Shakir Pasha's troops did not amount 
to 14,000 men.* Two thousand four hundred of the soldiers, with 
seven guns, and about two squadrons of cavalry, had been detached 
under General Baker. This officer was to hold the Russians in 
check at Tashkesan, while Shakir Pasha with, it must be remem- 
bered, a hostile force considerably superior to his own, and immedi- 
ately in front of him, was to effect his retreat across the Kamarli 
plain toward Petrie and Tartar BazardiK. 1 had ridden on with 
General Baker on the previous evening to Tashkesan. 

The first faint gleam of the sun was just beginning to appear, 
when a mounted soldier rode into our head-quarters at a gallop with 
the announcement that the enemy was advancing to attack. Gen- 
eral Baker had asked for re-enforcements on the previous day; Sha- 
kir Pasha had refused to give them. " Not a man can be spared," 
was his reply. " You must hold on till the death, for tne safety of 
the whole army depends upon you." We could see the enemy ad- 
vancing. Their long lines of infantry extended from right to left 
across the plain. Their cavalry along the Sofia -Tashkesan road, 
looking in the distance, and through the telescope, like interminable 
black dots speckling the snow-coveied ground. The dots came 

* I received the information as to these figures from one of Shakir Pasha's 
staff officers ; I believe it to be accurate. General Baker is writing a book 
about the recent campaign in the Balkans. He had every means of knowing 
the number of Shakir Pasha's force. I must refer the public to General Baker's 
more detailed account of the engagement. 



IN MEMORTAM. 



17 



neaTer and nearer. They were no longer dots: they were long lines 
of horsemen. They came closer. The Russians brought seven- 
teen guns against General Baker's position, where he had but seven 
and those small ones. Then firing became hot and fast, and when 
at about 500 yards distance, the whole of the Russian Guard broke 
out into one unanimous cheer of " Hurrah!" 

As the cheer died away we appeared to be surrounded. The 
enemy overlapped us on our right and left, whilst he was steadily 
nearing our center. Things looked very black at that moment. It 
seemed as if General Baker would be forced to retire for a few hun- 
dred yards, and take up another position, when that officer suddenly 
turning to his tiumpeter, remarked: " Sound the Turkish cry— the 
appeal to God!" Then, as it with one voice, there burst from the 
lips of 2,400 the shout, " Allah U AVali!" 

It was a sensation worth feeling-, it was a moment worth ten of 
the best years of a man's li^e; and a thrill passed through, my heart 
at the time— that curious soit of a thrill— it can only be described as 
a thrill— the sensation which you experience when you read of some- 
thiug uoble and heroic, or see a gallant action performed. It was 
grand to hear these 2,400 Mohammedans, many of them raw levies at 
the time, cheering back in defiance of those thirty picked battalions, 
the cioicest troops of the Tzar. 

" By Jove! there is a devil of a lot of them." The voice came 
from a bystander who was gazing in the direction of the Russian 
left. General Baker, whose attention had been called by the remark, 
and who was scanning the enemy's movements through his field- 
glass, without removing the latter from his eye, quietly observed: 
" 1 think we shall be able to account for them yet." 

Presently his aide-de-camp rode up to him with the announce- 
ment, "All is lost! Shakir Pasha has retired; he has abandoned 
you. We shall be taken prisoners." It was a critical moment, but 
now came out the genius of a first-class British general ana the 
sturdy pluck of a true British soldier. " It is not so hopeless as you 
think," replied General Baker. " Anyhow, we will die in our places 
ere we surrender to 1 he enemy Here! Colonel Ailix!" — this to an 
English officer, formerly in the Guards, and now on General Baker's 
staff — " there is a good position a little to the left of the road; take 
a couple of guns there, and annoy those masses of infantry wUich 
are advancing in that direction." This was done. The artillery 
fire, ably directed by the colonel, did enormous execution in the 
enemy's ranks, and checked for a time his advance. In the mean- 
time Captain Thackeray, who had arrived at Tashkesan a few days 
before, volunteered to lead two squadrons of horse down the hill in 
the direction of some Russian cavalry which were gradually advanc- 
ing toward our right. The movement was skillfully executed, and 
the gallant manner in which this officer led his men against a force 
ten times their number elicited hearty cheers from the Turkish in- 
fantry. 

But the enemy, though held in check for a moment, was not 
baffled. On he came, in never-endiug streams of skirmishers, which, 
as they reached our position, formed into seas of desperate soldiery. 
An exclamation from General Baker who was eagerly scanning the 
left of our position with his field-glass, called my attention in that 



18 



IK MEMORIAM. 



direction. We could see our men retiring, but in good order. 
They bad been forced back by sheer weight of numbers. It now 
became necessary to withdraw our right and center from the vicinity 
of the rapidly advancing foe, and to take up a fresh defensive line 
on the second saddle, or height, which was about half a mile in rear 
of the first position. Four guns were playing with considerable 
effect from the road below us on the approaching foe. The Russians 
had concentrated a very heavy cross-fire on this point. The Turkish 
gunners became unsteady. They limbered up one piece and com- 
menced retiring. If the others had lollowed, the day would prob- 
ably have been lost. General Baker saw this at a glance, and, stick- 
ing his spurs into his horse, he galloped down the slippery height— 
his animal now up to the haunches in the snow, then sliding down 
the steepest of decilivities— the Joose stones and pebbles flying like 
hail in the faces of those who attempted to follow him. He rode 
up to the retreating artillerymen, made them return with the cannon 
to the original position, and remained there for more than an hour, 
in the most exposed part of the field — his presence so encouraging 
the gunners that they redoubled their exertions, and fired so fast'and 
accurately that for a time the3 r completely paralyzed the Russians' 
movements. 

It was between eleven and twelve o'clock; the great orb of day 
was at its height, nature above us looked calm and peaceful; below 
us wounded men and corpses, and horses without riders galloping lo 
and fro. Shakir Pasha's troops could be seen in the distance, in 
full retreat across the plain: and, if the Russians had succeeded in 
breaking through Baker's line, every man of this force must have 
been lost. 

The Russians probably saw their foe, as it were, escaping from their 
grasp.* The Russian officers again cheered on their men to the 
attack— not now thirty battalions, for ere this more than 2,000 Mus- 
covites had bit the dust. The afternoon wore on. General Baker 
sac on his gray horse, gazing at his watch. Would that day ever 
finish? Would that sun ever go down? As we sat looking at our 
watches, the Turks gazed at the great dial of nature gradually de- 
scending toward the western horizon. All this time a life-and-death 
slruggle was going on between the two forces. It was the last posi- 
tion that the Turks could hold. Every moment gained was so much 
time lost to the enemy. The Russian general knew this: he col- 
lected his men for a final effort. The Tzar's officers gallantly ad* 
vanced to the attack : their cheers were met by counter-cheers. 

General Baker was in the foremost and most exposed place, stand- 
ing in a hail of rifle bullets and shell fire. He was encouraging his 

* I was riding at this time with Mr. Francis Francis, the Times correspon- 
dent. As we were ascending the height leading to the second position, my 
breast-plate broke, the saddle turned, I found myself in the snow. I had 
sprained my ankle a few days previous ; the pain was veiy great, and I could 
not put my foot to the ground. The Russians were not more than a quarter of 
a mile from us. It is not every man who will dismount from his horse on such 
an occasion to help a friend, and the more particularly when the bullets are 
flying about in close proximity to his person. Mr. Francis, however, did not 
hesitate for a moment. Springing from his horse, he coolly took off his coat 
and waistcoat, unwound a long sash from his waist, mended with it the breast- 
plate, then helped me on my horse, and I was able to reach the position. 



Itf MEMORIAM. 19 

men. He had confidence in his men, and the men had confidence in 
their general. The Russians came up the hill at the double, but 
broke with the Turkish fire: and the Turks, as their foes retreated, 
charged home with the cold steel, and drove them into the valley 
below. When our force was mustered* that evening, it was found 
thai more than 800 of the 2,400 Turkish heroes had given their 
lives for Turkey. 

Radford saw this memorable engagement and was with me on the 
occasion of the retreat to Petric. He was of great use to Drs. Gill 
and Heath, helping them to dress the wounded during the battle of 
Meska. 

It was in this engagement that Colonel Allix performed an act of 
bravery which, in our own army, would have won him trie Victoria 
Cross. General Baker had received instructions from Shakir Pasha 
to make a reconnaissance in force and destroy Meska. The Rus- 
sian troops had been driven out of this village, the Turks were al- 
most in possession of it, when a panic seized the Mohammedans. It 
was afterward said that some Jieutenant had cried out that the Mus- 
covites had made a flanking movement, and were about to take the 
Turks in the rear. Anyhow, all the Sultan's troops ran away as 
fast as possible, leaving General Baker and Colonel Allix about 300 
yards from the village. This was filled with Bulgarians. The lat- 
ter were amusing themselves by butchering the Turkish wounded as 
they lay helpless on the ground. " We must burn that village," 
remarked General Baker; and Allix, without saying a word, gal 
loped into it, accompanied only by one orderly. Once inside, and 
when in the midst of the Bulgarians, and with the Russians advanc- 
ing toward him from the other end of the hamlet, he set fire to some 
straw stacks, which speedily ignited the houses. Many shots were 
fired at him by the Bulgarians and Russians. However, the gallant 
officer escaped, and returned afterwards to Constantinople to re- 
ceive the order of the Osmanli, a decoration which he had so nobly 
won. 

From Othlukoi to Tatar Bazardik, and during the disastrous re- 
treat of Suleiman Pasha's army across the mountains to the sea at 
Kara Atch, Radford accompanied me, never complaining, never 
murmuring, in spite of the incessant privations, amounting some- 
times almost to starvation, to which he was exposed. On one occa- 
sion, having had no sleep for more than forty hours — being nearly 
all that time on the march— and alter having to wade through deep 
snow, the poor fellow fell asleep on his horse seven times, each time 
losing his balance, and coming on the ground. In the last tumble 
he put his thumb out of joint. Dr. Gill coming up after Radford 
had mounted, the latter put out his hand and had his thumb pulled 
into joint without even dismounting for the operation. 

Many a time my servant would bring a piece of biscuit, his own 



+ For the account of the muster and the loss incurred, I am indebted to Dr. 
Gill. This gentleman, with Dr. Heath, had been in the thick of the light 
throughout the day, performing the duties of a good Samaritan, regardless of 
the Russian fire. Dr. Gill, whose gallantry under fire and devotion to the cause 
he served had repeatedly won the applause of Mehemet Ali, Bejib Pasha, 
Shakir Pasha, besides General Baker, was subsequently publicly decorated 
at Stamboul by Raouf Pasha, the Minister for War. 



20 



m HEMOKIAM. 



ration for the day, and try and persuade me that he had already par- 
taken himself, whilst food had not perhaps passed his lips for twenty- 
four hours. At last we reached Constantinople, and shortly after- 
ward left for London. A typhus fever, contracted during the retreat 
of Suleiman Pasha's army, showed its first symptoms in Radford in 
Vienna; indeed, as we were leaving for England. When we arrived 
at Dover he was almost unconscious. Everything that human skill 
could devise was brought to bear, the best medical attendance was 
secured. It was too late. 

Radford's constitution, already enfeebled by the hardships of the 
recent campaign, was not proof against the fatal malady. Forty- 
eight hours after reaching England's shores, one of the noblest souls 
that ever tenanted a human frame soared away toward that unknown 
bourn from which no one can ever return. 

fj '.' xlU'W*-.! J l J r: ■'. '■■*; ***** .iftStO 

George Radford lies in Dover cemetery. Can more be said about 
him than is contained in the lines engraven on his tomb — " He was 
a brave soldier, a faithful servant, and as true as steel!" Yes, there 
might have been added— " In him 1 have lost a sincere friend." 
There are not many men who would give their lives for their friends. 
Radford would have readily given his life for his master. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



CHAPTER I. 

"Be quick, sir; you have no time to lose!" cried an officious 
porter in the Charing Cross Station, as he bustled me into a first-class 
carriage; and 1 found myself in the same compartment with a 
queen's messenger bound for St. Petersburg. Time fled rapidly by, 
and 1 had hardly realized to myself that London was left behind, 
ere 1 was walking down those very uncomfortable steps which lead 
to the Calais boat. A rough passage with a number of Gauls, who 
all talked loud at starting, but whose conversation gradually died 
away into mournful strains, and we steamed into Calais harbor; five 
hours later 1 was having my luggage examined in the waiting-room 
in Paris. 

44 Sir, they ain't found the cartridges, for 1 took good care to 
mix them up with the medicine bottles," whispered my servant 
Radford, as he mounted the box of our fiacre, and 1 drove away to 
a hotel, somewhat relieved in my mind, as I was not quite sure 
whether carrying loaded cartridges is permitted on the Chemin de 
Fer du Nord. 1 did not remain long in Paris. The 2,000 miles ride 
which lay before me across Asia Minor would take up every day of 
my leave. There was no time to lose, and in a very few hours I 
was in a railway station taking tickets for Marseilles. The night 
mail was just about to start. There were none but first-class car- 
riages. The result was that servants and masters had to travel to- 
gether. 

" You will sit in that carriage," said an obese and rubicund En- 
glishman to his groom, pointing to my compartment; 1 cannot go 
with servants " — and he entered another carriage. Further on I saw 
. the portly personage in the refreshment-room at Dijon. He was 
. talking to a little Frenchman, and apparently on the best of terms 
with him. The sound of their voices was mingled with the jingling 
of glasses and the clinking of knives and forks. Every one was 
eating as fast as he could. The waiters were serving the different 
travelers with lightning rapidity, and the proprietor of the buffet 
was calling out from time to time in a deep bass voice: 

" Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs. 11 y a encore 10 minutes avaut 
le depart du train." 

" Who is the little man?" 1 inquired of a talkative Yankee who 
was sitting by my side during the table d'hote. 

44 He, sir? He is my cook, and 1 am taking him with me to Nice." 

The obese Englishman heard the remark, and became more rubi- 
cund than before. 



n 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



V 1 reckon 1 have collapsed him," muttered the American. " If 
1 have to travel with his darned servant, 1 don't see why he should 
not travel with mine. ' ' 

The train rattled on. Each man in our crowded compartment 
tried to compose himself to sleep, the red light from the American's 
cigar gradually died away, and the individual himself, coolly lolling 
his head on his neighbor's shoulder, sunk into semi-unconsciousness. 

The morn broke bright and glorious. Winter was left behind; 
we were in the land of orange trees and olives. 

The steamer for Constantinople started at, four o'clock that after- 
noon, so we drove straight from the station in Marseilles to the 
harbor. Here, 1 found a splendid vessel belonging to Les Messag- 
eries Maritimes, and whichwas already getting up steam. The cap- 
tain was bustling about, giving orders. The crew were hauling in 
the ponderous anchors. 

There were not many passengers on board; only a siln merchant 
from Lyons, a rabid republican, and a pretty Greek girl— a friend of 
Madame Ignatieft, the wife of the Russian Embassador at Constan- 
tinople — who, after paying a visit to some friends in Paris, was again 
on her way to Constantinople. Our vessel was soon steaming ahead. 
She plowed her way splendidly through the waters, and hardly a 
motion could be perceived inside the spacious saloon which formed 
the dining-room of the passengers. W e were but a small party. The 
captain, a cheery tar who had been in every part of the world, and 
knew more stories about the unguardedness of the fair sex than per- 
haps any other mortal living. The doctor, a somewhat bilious and 
elderly gentleman, who became easily excited on all religious ques- 
tions, and gave short dissertations between the courses on the re- 
spective merits of medicine and Christianity. The silk-merchant, 
who cursed the empire, and then informed us that trade had never 
been so flourishing as under Napoleon's rule. Presently he told me 
in a whisper that some Frenchmen wished for another em pei or, and 
he concluded with an oath, that if there were, he would head a rev- 
olution and sacrifice his own life — yes, his own lite!— sooner than 
that the Prince Imperial should sit upon the throne of Prance. 

"We steam into the bay of Smyrna; the picturesque and undulat- 
ing coast is shaded by a framework of azure clouds; the sea, blue 
as lapis lazuli, is dotted with numerous vessels; flags of almost every 
nation in the world float in the balmy air; the clean white houses, 
with their many-colored wooden shutters, brighten up the glorious 
landscape; and boatmen, dressed in garbs of many hues and fash- 
ions, throng the sides of our vessel. 

"1 am going on shore," said the sUk-merchant,, who was sur- 
rounded by a crowd of vociferous Greeks. " Our steamer will not 
start for several hours. Let us dine in a cafe, and see if the fair sex 
in this part of Turkey is as beautiful as some travelers would have 
us believe." 

I accepted his proposal, and we walked through the street? of 
Smyrna. The town, clean as it looked from the harbor, proved to 
be a hideous deception. The streets were narrow and dirty, and the 
odor which everywhere met our olfactory nerves, was strongly sug* 
gestive of typhus. Women were seated in the patios, or open courts 
of the houses, and the Greek ladies in Smyrna are evidently not shy. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



23 



They boldly returned the inquisitive glances of my companion and 
myself, and appeared rather pleased than otherwise at our curiosity. 

" Well, 1 can't say much for their beauty," observed my compan- 
ion. " They have good eyes and hair, but all of them look as if 
they had not washed their faces for at least a fortnight. Como 
along and smoke a Nargileh. If there is one thing 1 love, it is a 
Nargileh, and when 1 am inhaling the tobacco 1 imagine myself to 
be a Pasha surrounded by my seraglio." 

T7e turned into a cafe; it was surrounded by a large garden. 
Some Greek merchants were playing at dominoes; an Italian prima 
donna, who might have been any age from seventy to a hundred, 
was singing a popular air, men with game and fish for sale walked 
up and down, legardless of interrupting the ancient vocalist, and 
offered their wares to the visitors. Presently my companion moved 
uneasily in his chair; some drops of perspiration stood on his fore- 
head, and his face was becoming rapidly green under the influence 
of the Turkish Nargileh. 

" I think 1 have had enough," he remarked. " The room is very 
hot. Aurevoir." And he returned to our vessel. 

In the meantime 1 proceeded to call upon a friend in the town. 
This gentleman informed me that the Christians and Turks in 
Smyrna were on the best of terms; however, he added that certain 
papers, believed to be in Kussian pay, were constantly announcing 
that there would shortly be a massacre of the Christians; it was said 
that this was done to excite bad blood between the two sects. 

The sound of the steamer's shrill whistle announced that she was 
getting up steam. Hastily retracing my steps, 1 arrived on board 
just as the crew were weighing anchor. The original number of 
passengers had by this time received a considerable addition. 
Greeks, Armenians, and Turks were walking about or lying stretched 
along the deck. Women and children were huddled up in close 
proximity with the men. A Babel of different languages was going 
on around me, and au old Greek woman was having an animated 
squabble with one of the ship's officers, the subject of discussion 
being as to whether the ancient female had paid the proper fare. 
The French officer could speak but little Greek, and the shrill- 
voiced dame no French; in consequence of this it was difficult for 
them to arrive at any satisfactory solution of the matter. 

A pasha, his son, and the chief of the telegraphs, were the only 
first-class passengers. However, four ladies, the pasha's seraglio, 
had been accommodated on the deck; they were reclining on some 
cushions in close juxtaposition with their attendant— a negro. 
The voice of this sable gentleman was pitched in a feminine key; he 
was busily engaged in arranging some pillows beneath the stoutest 
of the ladies— a comely dame, who would have turned the scale at 
probanly sixteen stone. Two pointer dogs in a large hamper, which 
was directed to a bey in Constantinople, added their barking to the 
general clamor; some horses, bound to Stamboul, were fastened by 
head-collars to the bulwarks, no horse-boxes being provided. Further 
on, and toward the steerage end. of the vessel, were five hundred re 
emits, on their way to Servia, in high spirits at the idea of shortly 
encountering the Russians. 

It was a lovely evening; I walked along the deck with the captnin. 



24. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



gazing curiously at his motley passengers. The stars shone bright, 
as became an Eastern clime, a, gradually freshening breeze for the 
moment had cleared the horizon. 

" We shall have an easy passage," 1 remarked. 

"Yes, tor good sailors," was the reply; "but it will be a little 
rough for those poor women " (pointing to the pasha's harem) " and 
for the half-clad recruits yonder." 

The latter did not seem to anticipate the treat that was in store for 
them. They were scattered in groups about the deck, many of them 
squatting upon their haunches, and attired for the most part in rags 
and many-colored patchwork. 

Presently a doleful melody was heard; the dirge which reached 
our ears told us of the readiness of these embryo warriors to meet 
the foe and die for the sake of Islam. 

" They will die quite soon enough," remaiked the captain dryly, 
as the last verse died away. " Look down here," he added, point- 
ing to the ship's hold; " our vessel is laden with three hundred tons 
of lead, and once a week, for several months past the steamers be- 
longing to the Messageries Maritimes have been freighted with a sim- 
ilar cargo. This is all going to Odessa. It will be odd it some of 
the lead does not, soon find its way back 1o the true believers, in the 
shape of bullets. 

" The Russian government is putting itself to great expense," he- 
continued; " however, there are people so silly as to think that Gort- 
schakoff wishes for peace; and in spite of all his preparations they 
actually believe in the Conference!" 

Ihe captain now left me, but 1 remained on deck. The freshen- 
ing gale gradually imparted an oscillating movement to our steamer. 
The rain fell in large drops. Some of the sailors covered the ladies 
of the harem with an awning. The horses began to kick, and the 
dogs in the hamper to bark. A melancholy groan could be heard 
from that part of the vessel appropriated by the soldiers. The first 
to succumb was the fat woman; in despairing tones she called for 
assistance. 'I he black attendant rushed to the rescue and convul- 
sively grasped the lady's head. It was a funny spectacle— that 
enormous pumpkin-shaped face supported by tw r o black hands. The 
now hazy moon cast a shadowy beam on the negro's countenance, 
from black it changed to green; it assumed a diabolical expression. 
The vessel lurched; he lost his balance; dropping his mistress's 
head, he fell down upon the pointers. They set up a savage growl. 
The eunuch started to his feet; his hair bristled with alarm; he felt 
himself all over. However, there was no damage done, and with a 
, sorrowful mien he returned to the side of his mistress. 



CHAPTER II. 

The following morning my servant awoke me with the announce- 
ment that we had arrived in the Bosphorus, and that he had not been 
able to eat his supper. By this last piece of intelligence he wished 
to convey to my mind that the storm had been more than usually 
violent. 1 was soon dressed, and, going on deck, found it crowded 
with interpreters from the different hotels. During previous so- 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 25 



journs in Constantinople, I had learned by experience the discom- 
fort of some of the purely British establishments. 1 had made up 
my mind on this occasion to try a French hotel. Sly hands were 
filled with cards announcing the merits ot the different inns. The 
commissionaires were deafening me with their shouts, each man 
bawling louder than his fellow,"when the silk-merchant declared in 
a loud voice that there was nothing like the Hotel cte Luxembourg, 
and he added that the perdrix aux truffes and the voi-autent a la 
finaneiere, as supplied by the chief of the establishment, were some- 
thing — yes, something; and he kissed the tips of his fingers as he 
made the last remark, so as to show his appreciation of The exqui- 
siteness of those dishes. 

" Perhaps the gentlemen do not wish their luggage examined?" 
said an officious Greek, the commissionaire of the Luxembourg. " L 
will give a baksheesh to the officials in the custom-house, and they 
will "pass the luggage at once. But if we do not give them any 
money," he added, with a knowing grin, " they will detain you at 
least an hour, ana rumple all the shirts in your portmanteaus." 

"Will it be much money?" inquired my companion, who, very 
reluctant to open his puise-strings, was equally averse to having his 
shirt-fronts rumpled. 

" No, sir, leave it to me," replied the Greek, with an air of great 
importance. 

" I know that this scoundrel will rob us!" ejaculated the silk- 
merchant. " But we are in his hands. We must pay, whether we 
like it or not." 

We arrived at the custom-house. An elderly official approached 
the Greek, and, pointing to us, said something in his ear. 

" We shall be robbed^! know we shall," muttered my companion 
excitedly. " If 1 could only speak the language, 1 would just give 
that official a piece of my mina." 

The Greek now put some money into the inspector's hand, and the 
latter, opening and shutting a hat-case, announced that the exami- 
ntion was over. Some porters carried our luggage up the steep hill 
which led from the port to Pera. We followed in a rickety old 
carriage. The springs were very weak, and the vehicle rolled from 
side to side as our horses panted along the wretchedly dirty street. 
Presently, to the relief ot my companion and self, who were neither 
of us feather weights, the driver pulled up at our destination. 

In the evening I went to a Turkish Cafe Chautant. It was a curi- 
ous siyht. Solemn-looking Turks were seated round the room, each 
man smoking his "Nargifeh. Little active-looking Greeks with 
cigarettes in their mouths, were eagerly reading the most recent tele- 
grams, and discussing the chances ot peace or war. In the interval 
between the songs a small knot of younger Turks loudly applauded 
a vocalist. The latter then began to sing about Sultan Abdul Aziz, 
of all his glory, and how at last pride turned his head. He did 
foolish things, went mad, and killed himself. " But it was not ids 
fault," continued the singer, in another verse, " it was his kismet. 
If he had been destined to die a natural death, or on the battle-field, 
he would have done so. We are all under the influence of destiny, 
Sultans are like the rest of the world. Great Sultan, rest in peace!" 

1 had the good fortune to be accompanied by a friend, an old 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



resident in Constantinople. He was a perfect master of Turkish, 
and he readily translated to me each verse of the song. 

" What is your opinion about Abdul Aziz's death?" I inquired of 
my companion, as the last strains of the melody died away. " Did 
he really kill himself, as the world would have us believe? or did 
some one else save nim the trouble?" 

My companion laughed ironically, paused for a few moments, aud 
then remarked: 

4 ' No one knows the exact facts of the case, but the popular belief 
is that he was assassinated, indeed, the Turks say that he had 
agreed to sell the fleet to Russia, and had consented to allow a Rus 
sian force to garrison Constantinople. 

" There is no doubt of one thing," continued my friend, <4 viz. : 
that the late Sultan was thoroughly under Ignatieff 's thumb. The 
ambassador could do what he liked with him. The Sottas found it 
out, and feared the consequences. From these facts the public have 
jumped to the conclusion that he was assassinated. 

"But look," added my companion, pointing to two men in the 
corner of the room, "there are two of the secret police. If they 
were not here, we should very likely have had another verse or so, 
more explicit as to the Sultan's fate. The audience would have 
been delighted if the singer had given us the popular version of 
Abdul Aziz's death." 

" Are there many secret police?" I inquired. 

" No, there is, if anything, too much liberty in Constantinople; 
the papers write what they like, and abuse the government freely, 
hardly any of them being suppressed in consequence, whilst some 
English newspapers, which are more bitter against Turkey than 
even the Russian journals, are sold at every bookstall." 

" Do you thinii that there is any chance of another massacre of 
Christians?" 1 remarked. 

" Not the slightest; that is to say, if Ignatieff does not arrange 
one for some political purpose. The Turks and Christians get on 
very well together here, whatever they may do in other parts of the 
country. However, there is one thing which would be very popular 
with all classes, and that is, an English army of occupation in Con- 
stantinople." 

" Why so?" 1 inquired. 

" Because this would brinsr some gold into the country. We have 
now nothing but paper. Your people would spend money, and busi- 
ness would go on better. "Why, for the last six months trade has 
been almost paralyzed. In fact, to tell you the truth, all classes 
would be very glad to see the English at Constantinople. Not for 
the sake of your good system of government, as you flatter your- 
selves in London, or through fear of being massacred by Bashi 
Bazouks, but simply because you have gold. Unless you bring us 
some, we shall all soon be ruined." 

On the following day 1 informed the proprietor of the hotel that 
1 wanted a servant who could speak Turkish, to accompany me 
during my journey. The moment that this became known I was 
beset by all sorts of individuals, Armenians and Greeks, eager to 
offer their services. Each man brought his testimonials, and de- 
clared that he was the only honest man in Constantinople, and that 



OJs HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



27 



all the other applicants were thieves, and would certainly rob me. 
If ever 1 appeared to have a predilection for one of the candidates, 
1 was immediately informed by the others that the man had been in 
prison for six months, or else that he was suspected of murder. 

In consequence of this 1 determined to follow the advice of an 
Englishman who knew Turkey well, and take a Mohammedan 
servant, who could speak no other language than his own. In that 
case he would be Jess likely to have learned any bad habits from the 
Armenians, and at the same time 1 should be compelled to speak to 
him in Turkish, and thus improve my knowledge of that language. 

The next morning a Turk came to" the hotel, and offered himself 
for a situation. He was dressed in the Circassian style, and wore a 
, short brown serge jacket, dotted across the breast with empty car- 
tridge cases. His head was covered bv a red fez or cap. encircled 
by a green turban. A loose pair of light blue trowsers. fastened at 
the waist by a crimson sash, and a pair of boots, half way up the 
knee, completed his attire. He was a tall, fine-looking fellow, and 
said he had previously been coachman to a Pasha, that he was a 
good groom, and would be faithful to me as an Arab steed to his 
Arab master. It was a pretty speech, but as 1 had seen some horses 
in the desert which invariably kicked whenever their master ap- 
proached Ihem, it did not produce the effect upon my mind which 
probably the faithful man desired. However, 1 was "in a hurry to 
get a servant; so 1 agreed to take ihe fellow, and give him £4 'per 
month and his food. In the meantime he said that he knew of some 
horses for sale, and that he would bring 1hem to the hotel in the 
course of a few days. 

1 had previously ascertained that my best plan would be to pur- 
chase a stud in Constantinople. In many parts of my proposed jour- 
ney 1 should be off the postal tract, and then it would be difficult to 
hire any horses — indeed it would sometimes be impossible, as the 
natives in certain parts of Kurdistan make use of buffaloes as a 
means of locomotion. 1 had once ridden a cow during an African 
journey. The motion is very uncomfortable; I had no wish to re- 
peat the experiment with a buffalo. 

Later on an invitation arrived for me to breakfast with Mr. Schuy- 
ler, the distinguished diplomatist, and the author of the highly-in- 
teresting volume, " Turkistan. " On arriving at his house 1 found 
some of the guests already assembled. Amongst others, there were 
Mr. Gallenga, the " Times " correspondent, and Mr. White, our 
consul at Belgrade. 

Presently there was a ring at the bell, and who should come in 
but Mr. Sala, the well-known correspondent of the "Daily Tele- 
graph." His arrival was quite an unexpected pleasure for our host. 
Mr. Sala had only reached Constantinople half an hour before, and 
had come to us straight from the harbor. He had left England 
about three weeks previously, and first had gone to St. Petersburg. • 
Here he had been introduced to several Russian journalists. He 
related, in a very amusing way, their conversation about England's 
policy toward Turkey, an account of which Mr. Sala had duly 
posted to the " Daily Telegraph." 

From St. Petersburg he had made his way to Odessa, and had 
come on via the Black^Sea to Constantinople. He described all the 



28 



01* HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MltfOR. 



stations along the Russian line as crowded with troops and blockaded 
by military railway carriages; whilst he laughed incredulously when 
some of our party gave it as their opinion that the Conference would 
lead to peace. 

Our host opined that the different representatives at the Conference 
would never agree, and that war would inevitably be the result. 
He had recently returned f rom a visit to Philippopolis, where he 
had been staying with Mr. MacGahan, the gentleman who wrote such 
harrowing accounts of the massacres in Bulgaria to the " Daily 
News." Mr. MacGahan, it appeared, had made himself very useful 
to Lady Strangford in assisting her to distribute the funds which 
had been subscribed for the destitute families in the East, and was 
immensely popular with the Christians. 

Meanwhile the Turkish newspapers, it was said, were very divided 
in their opinion as to the Conference. The majority of them, how- 
ever, were inclined to believe that it was a ruse of Russia to gain 
time for her military preparations, and of England to make Russia 
unpopular, and to sow discord between her and the other powers. 

Later on in the day 1 met. an English officer in the engineers, who 
had come to Constantinople during his leave, and was spending his 
time, in company with some other officers, in surveying a position 
between the Sea of Marmora and the Black Sea, and which is im- 
mediately in front of Constantinople. He was staying at a small 
village about twenty miles from Constantinople, and asked me to 
spend a day with him and his friends, when we could iide over the 
ground which be was surveying. As 1 was curious to see the coun- 
try in that neighborhood, 1 readily assented to his proposal. It was 
agreed that 1 should leave Constantinople by the seven o'clock train 
on the following morning, and that he should send a horse 10 meet 
me at a little station about twenty miles from the city. 

Mr. Gallenga had been kind enough to give me an introduction to 
some influential Armenians in Pera. On returning to my hotel I 
found two of these gentlemen awaiting my arrival. They were very 
disappointed to hear that 1 had engaged a Turkish servant, as they 
said they could have procured an honest Armenian, and they kind- 
ly volunteered to provide me with letters of recommendation to the 
different Armenian dignitaries in the chief towns which lay in my 
route. 

It was easy to gather from the conversation of one of these gentle- 
men that he was not well disposed to the idea of possibly one day 
becoming a Russian subject. 

"What is your opinion of the wish which General Ignatieff is 
said to have expressed, about making Bulgaria independent of the 
Porte?" 1 inquired. 

" That would never do," replied one of my visitors. "We have 
difficulty enough, as it is, in keeping our people quiet in Armenia: 
they will be very indignant if the Christians in Europe are granted 
privileges which the Armenians in Asia are not permitted to share." 

" The fact is," observed the other, " that we have no wish to be- 
come Russian subjects. Should this happen, we know very well 
what would be the result. We should not be permitted to use our 
own language, and considerable pressure would be brought to bear 
to induce us to change our religion. We are aware of what has been 



ON HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 29 



done to the Catholics in Poland;* we have no wish to be treated in 
the same manner." 

" What we require is similar treatment for all sects," observed the 
first speaker, w and that the word of a Christian when given in a 
court of law should be looked upon as evidence, and in the same 
light as a Mohammedan's statement. If the Caimacans (deputy 
governors) and Cadis of the different towns in the interior were only 
compelled to do us justice in this respect, we should not have much 
cause to grumble. However, if the Russians were to go to Van, 
our f ellow-countrymen would be ten times worse off than they are 
at present." 

Just then an Armenian priest entered the room. He stooped, and 
was, apparently, on the wrong side of sixtv, but he had a quick 
penetrating glance, when he chose to raise his eyes from the floor, 
and it was evident that there was plenty of vigor in his brain, how- 
ever little there might be in his body. 

" This English gentleman wishes to learn some particulars about 
the road to Van," observed one of the Armenians; " 1 want you to 
give him all the information in your possession." 

" He will find it very difficult to reach Van at this season of the 
year, on account of the snow; and he will run a considerable risk 
of being robbed or murdered by the Kurds," replied the priest, with- 
out raising his eyes from the ground. 

" Have you ever been from Scutari to Van?" 1 inquired. 

" No, nor hardly any one else. You had better go by the Black 
Sea to Trebizond, ride from there to Erzeroum, and it is only twelve 
days from that town to Van; but you would probably find the road 
blocked by the snow." 

It was clear that this priest could not help me much about my 
route, so I determined to take a map, Kiepert's Turkey in Asia, and 
strike a line across country as nearly as possible to Erzeroum. On 
arriving there, I snould probably be able to obtain some information 
about the state of the roads. 

In the meantime the priest and his companions had left the hotel — 
not together, but one by one — as the old man remarked that this 
would be less likely to attract attention. Indeed, subsequently, and 
throughout my journey, I frequently remarked the same dread of 
being seen speaking to an European on the part of the Armenian 
priests. Whether this arises from the fact that they are afraid of 
being suspected of conspiracy against the Turkish government, or it 
is the result of a guilty conscience, 1 can not say. 

Armenian newspapers frequently publish news which can not be 
agreeable to the government, and they are not interfered with by 
the authorities. 

Armenians are not thrown into prison or banished from the cap- 
ital, without this being at once published to the world. Then why 
so much timidity on the part of Armenian priests? If they are not 
engaged in seeking to undermine the government, one would have 
thought that they had nothing to fear. 

* Probably referring to the treatment of the people professing the United 
Greek faith. See Appendix A. 



30 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



CHAPTER III. 

I had ordered the poiter at my hotel to call me early on the fol- 
lowing moining, as the train started at seven, and it was quite half 
an hour's walk to the station. Luckily 1 awoke myself, and, on 
looking at my watch, found it was about halt-past six. Hastily 
dressing, 1 hurried down-stairs, ami found the individual whose busi- 
ness it was to awake me, fast asleep under a billiard table in the 
cafe belonging to the hotel. He grumbled at being disturbed, and 
did not fancy the idea of carrying my box to the station. It was 
necessary to use a little persuasive force, so, seizing a billiard cue, 
1 gave him a violent poke in the side. 

"Get up directly! 1 shall miss the train!" 

" Please God you will not," replied the Turk, with a yawn. 

1 had no time to lose, sn, taking the recumbent man by the collar, 
1 lifted him bodily on his legs, put my bag in his hand, and, with 
another push from the billiard cue, precipitated him down the steps 
into the street. 

"You want me to go to the station, Effendi?" said the fellow, 
now thoroughly aroused. 
"-Yes." 

" But the train will be gone." 
" Not if we run." 

"Run!" replied the porter, very much astonished, " and what 
will the Effendi do?" 
" Run too." 

And with another thrust from the billiard cue, I started him down 
Pera. 

Fortunately for me, trains in Turkey are not very punctual in 
starting. On arriving at the railway, about ten minutes past seven, 
1 found that 1 had time to take my ticket at Hadem Kui, a small 
station an hour and a half from Constantinople. There were two 
Englishmen in the same carriage as myself, one of them an old 
friend whose acquaintance 1 had made some years previous at 
Madrid. They intended to stop at a swamp a few miles from the 
city, and spend the day snipe-shooting. 

Upon my remarking that the railway seemed to take a very cir- 
cuitous course, my f riend smiled. 

" Yes," he said, " when the line was about to be constructed, the 
government agreed to pay so much per mile — the result has been 
that, although the country is level, the line is not quite so straight 
as it mignt be." 

"Poor Turks!" said his companion, "they are always being 
abused by the Christians, and yet the latter make a very good thing 
out of them. Why, only the other day,, a quantity of Krupp guns 
were brought here. The cost price was 150?, per gun, but the Turks 
had to pay 750?. . - 

" The Christians are too much for them in a bargain," he added. 

My fellow-travelers now left the train, which had stopped at the 
side of a wide marsh, and before our engine was again in motion, 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA Mils OR. 



31 



the report of a gun made me aware that their sport had already 
commenced. 

Half an hour later 1 arrived at the little station of Hadem Kui. 
" Is there a horse waiting for me?" 1 inquired. "No," "was the 
answer pi the station-master, a Hungarian. "Can I hire an ani- 
mal?"' " Ko," was the reply. " How far is it to the village where 

Colonel H is living?" " Seven miles." f< What sortof aroad?" 

" Xo road at all, but deep mud up to the horse's girths." " When 
does the next train go back to Constantinople 9 " "Xottill seven 

P.M." 

1 certainly did not bless- my friend H— — . To kick my heels- 
about tor twelve hours in a station destitute of a waiting-room, and 
with nothing to occupy my time, was not an agreeable prospect. 

"1 tell you what you had better do," said the station-master, 
" send a boy with a note to your friend. There is probably some 
misunderstanding about the horse, and the boy will be able to get to 
the village and back again in a few hours." 

A lanky overgrown lad volunteered to take the letter, and, tuck- 
ing up his ragged trousers till his bare thighs were thoroughly ex- 
posed to view "he took off his boots, and started. In a few'minutes 
1 could see him wading through mud at least two feet deep. A heavy 
M. F. H. would have found himself considerably out of his element 
if suddenly put down with his field and hounds in that line of coun- 
try. Imagine layers of the heaviest Bedfordshire plow-fields all 
heaped one on the top of the other, and then you will fall short in 
attempting to realize the nature of the soil. If ever an invading 
army were to make use of the railway from Adrianople for an ad- 
vance upon Constantinople, and the line between Buyuk Check- 
medge on the Sea of Marmora, and Kara Bouria on the Black Sea, 
be selected by the Turks as the last point from which to de- 
fend the capital, the difficulty in transporting heavy guns and bag- 
gage to the center of this position would be enormous. The de- 
fender's will have to make a small branch railway in the rear of the 
line of defense, or it wiil be impossible for them to supply their 
army. 

The station-master now invited me to sit down in his room, and 
wait till an answer to my note arrived. He was suffering from fever, 
and complained of the unhealthy nature of the soil. He could not 
sleep at night, and what most worried him was the incessant click 
of the telegraph dial. It was a very busy time, and any number of 
messages were always passing. 

" 1 can read them as they pass, simply by the sound," he contin- 
ued, and that incessant click, click, click, all night, is enough to 
drive a man mad. My brain aches. I toss from side to side. I see 
devils sitting on the telegraph-box. 

" Take my word for it, sir," he added, " there is nothing which 
breaks a man down so quickly as being a station-master in Turkey." 

" ^ T hat is your salary?" 1 inquired. 

" Only SOL a year. It is not enough to keep a wife," he added. 
" If I had a wife the lite would be easier, but there are no women 
here. I shall end by hanging myself upon one of my own tele- 
graph-posts— 1 know 1 shall if I stay here much longer." 

A letter novr arrived from Captain F , a friend of H- 's, to 



32 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MltfOtt. 



say that, in the absence of the latter, he had opened my letter, and, 
in consequence, had sent me a horse. Buch a horse as he was, too, 
with no shoulders, and only about thirteen hands high; when 1 
mounted the animal and had let out the stirrups to their last hole 
they were too short. 1 had the cramp. When 1 rode without stir- 
rups my legs were in the mud. It was a choice of evils — the cramp 
or the mud, and the mud gained the day. 

At last 1 came to the little village where Colonel H and his 

friend were residing. An Armenian servant now informed me that 
his master was busy surveying, but that he would soon return. The 
other officer, who had sent me the horse, was also out, but was 
shortly expected home. In about three hours both of them arrived. 

H had lost his way in the dark. He had been attacked by a 

dog; the savage brute had batten his boot, and H had only saved 

himself by using his revolver. He had ordered a man to bring me 
a horse, but from the officer not being able to speak Turkish, his in- 
structions had been misunderstood. 

The room was not a large one, and only a few feet square. There 
was no other, so we shared it between us, 1 being accommodated on 
the floor. We were up at daybreak, and rode over the position, a 
succession of rising slopes, which looked as it nature had made them 
especially for the defense of Constantinople. The distance from the 
Sea of Marmora to the Black Sea is twenty-four or twenty-five 
miles;* but each flank, being covered by lakes and rivers, could be 
easily watched and secured. The extent of the real fighting-ground 
would be by these f eatures reduced to nine or ten miles of plain, but 
with favorable undulations, affording a good command over the 
front. Batteries could be so arranged as to enfilade each other at every 
point, and should fifty thousand reliable troops ever make a stand 
at this position it would be a very difficult one to carry. 

This time my f riend had mounted me on a different sort of animal 
to the one which 1 had ridden on the previous day. He was a stout 
gray cob, with good shoulders; when 1 mounted him the first thing 
which he did was to try and run away. 1 turned his head toward a 
neighboring height, and let him gallop through the deep mud. To 
my astonishment, on arriving at the summit he continued pulling. 
There was evidently some good stuff in that horse, and 1 determined 
to buy him. His owner was not in the village, so 1 left word ihat 
it he would send the cob to Constantinople, 1 would give 10?. for 
the animal— a very lair price, taking into consideration the market 
price of horses in the capital. 

Meantime, after having said good-by to my hospitable entertain- 
ers, 1 turned my face toward the railway-station. A line of tele- 
graph posts served me as a guide, and I arrived at the booking- office 
in time to catch the train. 

An acquaintance, a friend of the silk-merchant, called upon me 
later in the evening. He proposed that we should go together to a 
cafe, and hear a song which a French girl sung every night, and 
one in which the Turks delighted. 

The cafe, or rather music hall, was a fine building, crowded with 
men of all nationalities. Good-looking Hungarian and Italian girls 



* See Appendices XVI., XVIII., on the Defenses of Constantinople. 



ON HOBSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOB. 



33 



took the place of waiters, and bustled about, receiving orders from 
the more than usually excited true believers. Many of the latter, in 
spite of the Prophet's injunction, were freely partaking of raki. 
Volumes of smoke from the cigarettes and chibouks of the spectators 
had created a dense atmosphere in the building. Some of the at- 
tendants were remarkably handsome girls. Indeed, as I subse- 
quently learned, the proprietor of the cafe would not engage an ugly 
woman, his idea being that the Turks, his chief customers, came 
quite as much to look at and talk to the waitresses, as to see the 
performance. It must have been a hard trial for the digestive organs 
of the better looking of these girls. One in particular, a tall and very 
handsome Italian, with large daik eyes and an innocent expression, 
which probably her character belied,* was in great request, the Turks 
always inviting her to share the raid or the coffee which she brought 
them. The performance lasted from eight p.^i. till about two m 
the morning; it was a wonder that her constitution could stand the 
trial. I called for a cup of cofiee, and when sue handed it to me, 1 
asked in Italian what she would like for herself. The girl's eyes 
sparkled on being addressed in her native tongue. 

" Nothing, signor," she said, " 1 am not a barrel, although the 
Turks think I am; but you are not s Turk. However, I can not 
afford to offend them, for the proprietor pays us no wages; all 1 
have is what the visitors give me. It is a dreadful life, signor. 
Chocolate, raki and beer. 1 only sip, but I have to swallGw a little 
all the same; then there is lemonade, coffee, mastic, and occasion- 
ally, when gentlemen like yourself come here— champagne. It is a 
mixture. 1 nave a pain sometimes." she continued, at the same time 
pointing to the bodice of her dress, " 1 wish to ciy, but I have to 
run about, smile, wait upon the visitors and drink with them — it is 
a dreadful .life. Oh, if 1 could only return to Florence!" 

A Turk seated near me, and who was eagerly gazing at the girl, 
made a sign to her. 

" I must go," she said. " He is a friend of the proprietor— I dare 
not offend him." 

Presently she was sipping some punch from his glass. Aty friend 
caught my eye, and laughed. 

" Yes," he said, " she is adding punch to the other mixtures. 
Poor child, it will be a wonder if she does not go off by spontaneous 
combustion some day. But, hush! the famous singer'is just going 
to give us the song about the Turcos." 

A tall and rather stout French girl now came upon the stage. 
Some long black tresses were hanging down her back. Her dress, 
which was made of white muslin, was very low in front, and a flam- 
ing red sash encircled her waist. The" song had reference to the 
bravery of the Turcos, how they died for France, and how France 
loved them. 

The girl had a good voice. As the last notes died awav in the 
hall, the Turks became greatly excited. Shouts of applause re- 
sounded through the building. Close to my table were two English- 
men. One of them appeared to be a correspondent for some news- 
paper. His pockeibook was open on the table. He was taking 
notes. " Patriotic song," he remarked to his companion, " capital 
scene for a graphic letter— sympathy between French and Turks- 
Car . » 



34 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



you see she says France loves the Turks." "Nonsense," said his 
companion, " she is singing about the Turcos in Algeria— not about 
the Turks— you have written it all wrong." The special changed 
color for a moment, and then muttered, " Confound it! yes! Al- 
geria is not Turkey, but it does not much signify." And he went 
on writing. 



CHAPTER IV. 

The following morning 1 was awoke by a tap at the door, and 
who should enter my room but the newly-engaged servant, Osman. 

"Effendi," he said, "1 have five horses for you to see. They 
are in a large yard close to the hotel. Splendid horses they are too. 
1 am so industrious," he added, " the Effendi will find this out for 
himself soon. 1 am not like other Turks — 1 like working; 1 have 
been running all over Constantinople after the horses, for 1 heard 
that the Effendi was in a hurry to start. When will he go and see 
the animals?" 

About half an hour later I accompanied the industrious man to a 
small plot of ground not far from Pera. It was surrounded by a 
high wall, and, judging from the number of loose stones which lay 
about, had once been a cemetery. But cemetery or not it was all 
the same to Osman, who had not the same reverence for the dead 
as the rest of his countrymen. 

■'. There are a great many stones," 1 observed. 

" All the better, Effendi," was the reply; 4 4 we shall ride over a 
number of stones on the road to Ears, and a little sooner or later for 
the horses does not make rnuen difference." 

The steeds were now led in, accompanied by their owner, a wall- 
eyed Turk. They were not much to look at, it one estimated them 
from an English standard, but 1 had learned in previous travels that 
Oiie can not always judge of Eastern horses by their appearance. I 
desired my English servant, Badford, to mount the best-looking one 
of the lot, a little black, about fourteen hands high. He was very 
thin, and looked as if he had never been given a good feed of corn, 
but his legs were fine and hard. He put down his feet flat when he 
walked, and did not go on his toes, tvhich last is a fatal defect to a 
horse if about to march for many days in succession. Radford eyed 
the animal from head to foot. 

44 Lor' sir," he said, " this 'ere horse will never carry me. He 
ain't got no shoulders!" 

44 Never mind," 1 replied. 44 Jump on him and try." 

There was no saddle, and my man had to mount bare back. 
44 Very good," 1 added, as the animal appeared to carry nis burden 
without any difficulty, 44 take him round at a hard canter." 

The little brute now began to pull hard, and bounded over the 
rough stones in a way that showed he was well accustomed to such 
obstacles. 

44 Does he pull?" 1 inquired. 

44 Pull, sir? He pulls my harms off!" 

This was enough for me, and 1 determined to buy the animal; as 
a horse that walks well, and will pull with fourteen stone on his 
back, is not a bad one for a long journey. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



35 



The next one produced for my inspection was covered with a rug, 
the other horses not being provided with any such clothing. 

u What is that for?" ] inquired, pointing at the cloth. 

" Effendi, I put it on him because 1 was atraid that he might 
catch cold," replied the owner. 

" Never mind, take it oft. When 1 buy horses I like to see them 
first." 

" He thinks, sir," remarked my faithful servant, " that we buy 
'orses as they marry their wives— that is, without looking at them. 
I should not be surprised, sir, if that 'ere 'orse had a sore back." 

The man's remark proved true, and on taking off the cloth a raw 
place of at least six inches square was exposed to view. 

"He has a sore back," 1 remarked to the owner. " Take him 
away. " 

" Sore back! Yes, he has; it will soon get well. The Efiendi 
would like this horse though, and he is a great friend of the horse 
the Efiendi has just looked at — they eat out of the same manger. 
The Efiendi had better buy him." 

" Get on that little bay," I said to my servant, not paying any 
attention to the Turk's observation. As m} r man went past at a trot, 
1 heard a sound which at once made me aware that there was some- 
thing the matter with the horse's wind. 

" Be is a roarer," I remarked. 

" Effendi, he makes a noise, but he is stout and strong. He 
would make a capital pack-horse." 

The horse was sound in other particulars, and as a roarer for slow 
marching is as good as any other animal, 1 determined to buy him — 
at the same time telling the owner that the fact ot the horse's wind 
not beina all right would considerably deteriorate from his value. 

" Deteriorate from his value!" said the man, his wall-ej r e glaring 
at me ferociously. " No, Efiendi, he makes a little noise, but that 
is nothing; he is a useful horse, and when I let him out on hire in 
Constantinople he never runs over the blind beggars. He gives 
warning of his approach, and they hear him coming." 

1 had by this time selected two more horses, and now came the 
knotty point of what price 1 was going to give for the four. 

V How much do you want for them?" 1 inquired. 

" How much, Effendi? Sixty liras (Turkish pounds of 18s.) 1 
want, and not a piastre less; even then I should be a ruined man." 

" Sixty liras! Sixty dogs and sixty sons of dogs!" 1 replied, 
attempting to address him in the language easiest understood by a 
Turkish peasant. 

" Ah! Effendi," said the horse-dealer, " you know the value. To 
you there is much brain; but the Effendi's eyes will show him that 
sixty liras are nothing tor the horses — besides, sixty liras, what are 
they? Sixty grains from the sand on the sea-shore to the gold in 
the Effendi's purse." 

1 was not going to be bamboozled in that way; taking forty 
liras from my pocket, 1 showed him the money. 

" There," I said, " that is all 1 shall give you, and all that your 
horses are worth." 

" Look! forty liras!" The man attempted to impart to his coim* 



36 



OK HOESEBACK THROUGH ASIA 3IIXOR. 



tenance an indignant air, "but the sight of the gold was too much for 
iiirn. " Only forty liras!" 

' 5 Yes," 1 said; and if you will not sell them, I will buy my 
horses from aoother dealer," and 1 turned to go away. 

ss No, Effendi, do not stir!" cried the owner, hastily. "But 
forty liras— let us say forty-one — one lira more — just one — for a 
baksheesh!" 

iS Very well," 1 said; and 1 handed him the mone}*. 

Meantime, Osman, the Turkish servant, led my newly-acquired 
property to a stable which he had engaged for me" in I he~ neighbor- 
hood. 

Later on in the afternoon L received a communication from my 

friend H . in which he said that be had sent the gray horse to 

Constantinople by the bearei of the letter, but that the owner of the 
aniaial would not take less than sixteen liras for him. As 1 had 
thoroughly tried the animal, 1 determined to accept the offer, and 
my stud was now complete. 

The final preparations for the journey were soon made. All the 
horses were fresh shod, and now I found that a Turkish horseshoe 
is very different to the one which we use in this country. It con- 
sists of a thin, circular piece of iron, with a very small hole in the 
center, not bigger than a shilling; almost the entire surface of the 
hoof being thus protected by the metal. 

Two English saddles were bought for myself and Radford, a 
Turkish saddle was provided for Osman, and two pack-saddles for 
the baggage-horses. Saddle-bags, corn-sacks, and nose-bags had 
been also purchased, and a supply of tea and such other necessaries 
as would be difficult to obtain when once we had quitted the 
capital. 

Everything was now ready for the start, so I hastened to say 
good-by to my numerous friends. While visiting one of them— ail 
English lady — a Russian acquaintance called upon her to solicit 
subscriptions for a hospital. This building, as it appeared, was 
being used for all classes of patients, and a prince al the Russian 
embassy was at that time occupying one of the wards. 

" 1 went to see him yesterday," said the visitor. " He complains 
dreadfully of the quietness of the establishment." 

" Perhaps he would like a ban el-organ in the passage?" observed 
my hostess. 

" That is what 1 said to hirn," replied the lady. " If he had his 
own way he would give a ball there before long." 

It would rather astonish English people if they were told that a 
person holding the position of a secretary oi embassy was inhabiting 
a building which in this country is reserved for the impecunious, 
but, no one in Russia thinks anything of sucb malters; there are so 
many princes. Not many years ago a prince could have been seen 
cleaning the visitors' boots at Dusaux's Hotel in Moscow." 

It was Friday, December the 8th, 1876. 1 have always been a 
disbeliever in the sailors' superstition about leaving a port on 
Friday, and although several of my friends, particularly the Greek, 
entreated me to postpone my departure till the following day, 1 
determined to run the risk of offending the Fates, and at once to 
commence my journey. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



37 



The street in front of the Hotel Luxembom g was filled with a 
crowd of idlers from an early hour. It had been rumored about 
that the Giaour was mad enough to wish to go to Kars from Scutari 
by land, instead of by the Black Sea and Erzeroum, and that he was 
about to start. The Turk had spread the news. His friends and 
family had come to see him oft*. In the meantime he himself was 
busily engaged in loading the pack-horses, but occasionally found 
time to glance superciliously at his admiring and awe-struck rel- 
atives. At last everything "was ready; giving Osman the little 
traveling sword, 1 desired him to strap it around his waist. The 
crowd of relations were now more excited than before. The by- 
standers took the liveliest interest in the proceedings. " Osman 
has got a sword," said one. " He is buckling it on," said another. 

Osman's air of importance increased tenfold when 1 desired him 
to sling my little sporting-rifle on his shoulder. There was a faint 
approach to a cheer from a little boy in the crowd. This was instant- 
ly suppressed, and in the midst of all the excitement we rode down 
the streets of Pera. 

Several friends ol mine were staying at the Hotel Royal; as we 
passed their windows they invited me to take a stirrup-cup, and in 
addition poured out a bumper for the Turk. However, Osman 
could not be induced to drink. He was more particular in this re- 
spect than many of his fellow-countrymen. He handed the glass 
to Radford. The latter was not displeased at the Turk's religious 
scruples, as he thus got two glasses for himself instead of one. He 
at once tossed off the contents, and smiling benignantly returned the 
tumbler to his companion. 1 now shook hands with my friends at 
the Royal, and we continued our journey toward the port. 

" Good-by, old fellow," cried my hospitable entertainers. 

" We shall meet again soon," was my auswer. 

" Let us hope this side of Hades," said another, and we rode on- 
ward toward Galata. 

An acquaintance, a Greek gentleman, accompanied me as far as 
the port. Here 1 discovered that one boat for Scutari had just 
started, and that it would be at least three hours before there would 
be another. This threw out my plans. 1 had wished to march my 
horses about five hours thai day, but m consequence of the delay, 
and the shortness of the evenings at this season of the year, night 
would be on us before we had left Scutari. 

The steamer arrived. A wide platform was pushed out from the 
deck to the shore, and two carriages with some hordes, belonging to 
a Turkish Bey, were taken on board. Then came Radford and 
Osman, each leading two horses; 1 followed with the little gray. 
The carriages and animals belonging to the Bey were placed toward 
the bow of the vessel, and the other horses near the engines. 

The sea was as calm as a duck-pond. In Osman's opinion it was 
unnecessary to tie up our steeds to the bulwarks. The animals 
which belonged to the Bey were simply held by their grooms, and 
stood quietly enough by the carriages. Everything looked couleur 
de rose, and 1 went up the ladder to a sort of raised deck, which 
arched over the place reserved for horses, cattle, and other merchan- 
dise. Here several Turkish ladies were sitting. They were encaged 
in sipping glasses full of water, One, who appeared to be the^elder 



38 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR, 



of the party, had some sugar in her pocket; producing it, she care- 
fully sugared the tumblers of her companions, and then sugared her 
own. The faces of these ladies could be clearly seen through the 
very thin muslin texture which served them as veils. They were 
not prepossessing, and sadly wanted expression— a defect which 1 
subsequently observed iu almost every Turkish woman whose 
countenance 1 had the opportunity of seeing. We need not be 
surprised at this. I have been informed by the Turks themselves 
that very few women, not one per 1,000 can read or write. They 
amuse themselves Avith gossip and eating. Their mental faculties 
become absorbed. They live for the moment, and pine after the 
coarser and more sensual pleasures. The domestic lite in a Turkish 
family is often not a happy one; the elder and Jess favored wives 
hate to desperation the more attractive and younger additions to the 
harem. The middle-aged spouse is goaded to madness at being 
deprived of those f avors which the more comely wife is allowed to 
share. She endeavors to poison her lord's ear wilh respect to the 
new arrival. The jealous husband does not know what to believe, 
his home becomes a pandemonium. 

Suddenly a loud report, followed by another and then another, 
aroused me from my reflections; a tremendous noise could be heard 
below our feet, and men's voices expostulating in anger. 

What had happened? One of the Turkish ladies let her tumbler 
fall, the faces of the other passengers became wbite. Was it a 
torpedo which General Ignatieff had set to blow up the Mohammed- 
ans, or had the engine burst? 

1 hurried down-stairs. The first thing which met my gaze was 
the black horse, Obadiah — 1 iiad named him after a favorite old 
charger — lying stretched out on deck, and my English servant seated 
on the animal's head. Osman was holding one end of the gray 
horse's halter, the animal amusing himself meanwhile by lashing 
out with his heels at the panels of the Bey's carriage. Fortunately 
the other horse had remained quiet. The Bej^'s servants, instead of 
attempting to save the panels of their master's carriage, vented then- 
wrath by numerous expletives, and w r ere keeping as far as possible 
from the scene of action. 

" Well, I'll be d— d!" 

This ejaculation, uttered in a strong Celtic accent, attracted my 
attention, as I was busily engaged holding up the gray's foreleg to 
keep him from doing any more damage to the Bey's vehicle. The 
forcible exclamation issued from the lips of an engineer, who hap- 
pened to be engaged on board the boat. 

" What has happened?" I asked. 

" Happened, sir! The Lord only knows. We were down below. 
There was an explosion on deck. 1 ran upstairs, and saw smoke 
coming out of that box. All the horses were topsy-turvy." 

The box in question contained about five hundred loaded car- 
tridges, which I was taking for sporting purposes. 

" What does it all mean, Radford?" 1 inquired. . 

" Lor, sir, it was that black 'orse Obadiah, as was at the bottom of 
all the mischief. He is that artful. He stood quiet enough till we 
started and the paddles began to turn; he then began to kick, and 
frightened the gray. That 'ere Turk," pointing to Osman, " was 



OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 39 



a-praying by the side of the paddle-boxes, and not taking any ac- 
count of the hanimals, drat him! Obadiah upset his pack-saddle 
and then stamped on the cartridge-box; some of them have gone 
off. Hosman left off praying and began to swear, that's all he did; 
and as tor them there Turks in charge of the other 'orses, they 
did nothing. Obadiah slipped up, and 1 sat on his head to keep 
him quiet." 

Luckily no great damage was done except to the Bey's carriage. 
"We commenced patting the pack-saddle on Obadiah, but before this 
operation was completed our vessel arrived at Scutari. The steamer 
would only stop a few minutes at the port. There was no time to 
properly arrange the baggage, the greater part of it had to be carried 
out by hand. A crowd of idlers stood on the shore; some of them, 
recognizing Osman, came to help us in adjusting the saddle, each 
individual ottering advice as to how the baggage should be strapped 
to the saddle; Osman meanwhile talking to his friends about the aw- 
ful danger which he had incurred, and how, had it not been for 
him, the steamer and all the passengers must inevitably have gone to 
the bottom. The Bey's carriage drove past us ; the servants on the box 
vented their indignation at the damage done to their master's panels 
in some strong language. Osman answered them in a torrent of ex- 
pletives, which, translatd into Saxon, would frighten a Billingsgate 
irishwoman. The bystanders joined in the chorus, and it w r as some 
time before we were ready to start. 



CHAPTER V. 

The shades of evening were falling fast as we rode through the 
town. Presently, leaving behind the dirty lanes and filthy streets, 
the main features of Scutari, we emerged upon the open country. 
The road was in a dreadful state, at least a foot of black mud was 
piled on the strata below. In order the better to avoid the diit we 
rode along a raised path which overhung the highway, Osman and 
Radford each leading a baggage-horse. In about hall an hour we 
arrived at a place where the highway ascended rapidly for a few 
hundred yards. The footpath rose yet more abruptly, and here and 
there large sections of it had fallen into the road below. We were 
passing by the cemetery at Scutari. Thousands of grave-stones 
which mark the resting-place of departed Turks lav scattered here 
and there. A deep silence reigned around, and the place appeared 
a desert, tenanted only by the dead. Suddenly 1 heard a noise be- 
hind me; a sound of horse's hoofs striking violently against some 
hard substance. 1 looked round. The first thing which met my 
gaze was the horse Obadiah, the source of all our previous difficul- 
ties, with his pack-saddle under the girth. In the hurry of resad- 
dling him at Scutari the yarn breast-plate and crupper had not been 
well adjusted, nor had they been properly buckled. The saddle had 
turned, and Obadiah was amusing hinaself by a second time kicking 
at my cartridge boxes, gun-case and tins of tea and sugar. Crash 
went his iron hoof againstone of thecases, away flew the white sugar 
into the black mud. A bang resounded from the gun-case and that 
went spinning in another direction. Fortunately the boxes of car- 



40 OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



fridges had rolled to a little distance and were just out of reach of 
the now infuriated beast's heels. Osman in a moment of fear had 
released the animal's halter; dismounting fiorn his own steed he 
tried to get to Obadiah's head. This was by no means an easy task; 
the path was very narrow, in fact there was barely room enough for 
a horse to walk. To reach the pack animal it was necessary to de- 
scend to the road which lay some feet below us and then climb up 
the steep and muddy bank. 

While this was being done I took charge of Osman's horse, the 
roarer, and which he had selected for his own riding because he 
said that the animal was a rahran or ambler. He had rubbed his 
trousers when he made this remark and had grinned complacently; 
by this gesture he sought to convey to my mind that his skin was 
tender and that he did not wish to be galled during the journey. 

A noise in front now called my attention to that direction. 
The horse that Radford was leading had become alarmed and in 
his struggles to release himself was half-way over the bank. 

"Let him go!" I cried 1o my servant, fearing that he would be 
dragged over the steep incline. 

Down fell the animal on his back and all the remainder of my 
luggage was covered with the slimy clay. The horse was a little 
shaken by the fall and did not attempt to rise — he lay jjrostrate and 
helpless in the midst of the havoc which he had created. Meantime 
Obadiah, who had been frightened to death by the luggage which 
was hanging round his heels had kicked away his trammels. Osman 
approached him from the bank and tried to get to his head. It was 
in vain. The horse sprung back a yard or so, plunged and kicked, 
then slipping like his fellow sleed he rolled down the steep. He 
was none the worse for the fall, and bounding on his legs dashed 
headlong along the road — his saddle and everything he had pre- 
viously carried lying scattered in every direction. 

The sun by this time had long since set. It was nearly dark. 
Letting go Osman's horse I galloped after the runaway, but it was 
useless f; in a moment he disappeared from view. There was nothing 
to be done but to return to my party and collect the luggage. 

" Our fate is a bad one," said Osman. " The horse— curse his 
mother— has gone, what shall be done? Praise be to Allah that the 
Effendi is not hurt. 1 have worked very hard," he added. 

"It is all your fault," 1 remarked, angrily. "It would serve 
you right if 1 were to break your head. You ought to have seen 
that the pack-saddle was properly put on the horse at Scutari. " 

" Saddle, EfTendi? It was all owing to the saddle. It did not fit 
the horse." 

" What does he say, sir?" inquired the English seivant. 

" Say! confound him! he says it is the fault of the saddle." 

" Saddle, sir! no, it ain't. It is all the fault of his confounded 
praying. Why, whenever there is any work to be done, he is al- 
ways down on'his knees and a-banging his head against the ground. 
Eeal hard work his praying is, sir, and no mistake. 1 catched him 
at it this morning in the hotel; then he had another turn on board 
the steamer— and look, sir, there he is again. Drat him, he has 
taken my coat to kneel on!" And rushing up my servant, dragged 
his property from beneath the prostrate Mohammedan. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



41 



We were some distance from Scutari, and about two hours from 
Moltape, a village in which 1 intended to pass the night. 1 deter- 
mined to send Osman back to the town, an^ desired him to hire a 
Hammall, or man with a baggage- horse. In the meantime, Eadford 
and myself could keep guard over our luggage. 

The night grew darker and darker. The white grave-stones could 
be barely discerned. Leaving my English servant to sit upon the 
luggage in the road, 1 waded through the mud lo a cleaner spot in 
the cemetery. Sitting down on one of the broken monuments, I 
awaited Osman's arrival. Presently I heard the sound of steps close 
behind me. The locality does not bear a good reputation, so grasp- 
ing my revolver, 1 prepared for an attack. 

v Peace be with you!" was the new-comer's salutation, and in a 
few minutes 1 discovered he was the grave-digger, or person iu 
charge of the cemetery. His house, or hovel, was not far off, and 
he invited me to go there and share his fire. It would not have been 
safe to have left the luggage, so 1 declined the offer. Soon after- 
ward the sound of horses' hoofs in the distance announced the ap- 
proach of Osman. He was accompanied by a Hammall. The latter, 
placing the fallen luggage upon his animal, jumped himself on top 
of all. 

" We had better go back to Scutari, Effendi," said Osman. " It 
is late; there will be no village for the next three hours. In Scutari 
theie is good accommodation." 

1 had no wish to turn back. We had already lost at least half a 
day through Osman's stupidity; I resolved to continue the march to 
Moltape, and halt there for the night. Osman could start at day- 
break for Scutari, and make inquiries about the lost horse. 

" Shall you find him?" 1 inquired of the Turk. 

" Find him, Effendi? of course I shall find him. I will not eat, 
drink, or sleep till my lord's property is restored;" by wav of sub- 
stantiating this statement, Osman took a piece of bread out of his 
pocket and began to eat. 

" Well." 1 observed, " you said you were going to starve till you 
had found my horse, and you are eating already." 

" It is bad for a man with an empty stomach *to be exposed to the 
night air. 1 shall be all the better able to look for the Effendi's 
horse to-morrow, and please God, 1 will find him," was the answer. 

We continued our journey through the deep mud, the Hammall 
riding in front as guide. The moon rose and threw her pale shad- 
ows on the scene. The Hammall, who was perched up on the top of 
a pile of luggage uttered from time to time, shrill cries. Cracks 
from his whip resounded from the flanks of his overtaxed steed. 
Radford rode pensively in the rear; the bowl of a short wooden pipe 
glowed with the red hot ashes of some tobacco. Nothing ever seemed 
to afflict my England servant. I was going to Kars — well, he must 
go too; if I had told him that I was going up in a fire balloon, he 
would have been equally ready to accompany me. 1 wish we had 
four hundred thousand men like him in the British army. The sol- 
dier who will ask no questions, will go where you like, and die in 
his place if you tell him to do so, is preferable," in my mind, to the 
more educated individual who reflects, weighs probabilities, and 
sometimes runs away. 



42 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



Now a light appeared in the distance, and then another. The 
swamp through which we had been riding was gradually replaced 
by harder soil. A few whitewashed cottages were met with at in- 
tervals along our path. Presently we rounded a corner, and a large 
village was exposed to view. The Hammall rode up to a house 
which was detached from the rest, and in the center ot the town. 
He leaped from his horse, and coming to my side, held the stirrup- 
leather for me to dismount. We had arrived at a khan, or resting- 
place for travelers. On lifting up the latch, or rather pulling at a 
piece ot string which was used as a substitute for a handle, the door 
opened. 

1 found myself in a large, low room. So soon as my eyes became 
accustomed to the dense "atmosphere, 1 discovered that almost all 
the available space was filled with soldiery. On one side of the room 
there was a succession of broad wooden shelves, ascending toward 
tne roof; these, too, were tenanted. It was difficult to put a foot 
down upon the floor without treading upon the face or body of some 
follower of the Prophet. The smell which arose from so much hu- 
manity was everything but agreeable. A mungo, or circular iron pan 
on a tripod, was filled with burning charcoal, and placed on a stool 
so as to be removed from the immediate vicinity of the sleepers. It 
gave out a blue and sulphurous flame. The charcoal had not been 
properly burned through previous to being placed in the mungo. It 
added some poisonous fumes to the unhealthy atmosphere. 



CHAPTER VI. 

The proprietor of the establishment, a Greek, slowly raised him- 
self from a recumbent position. His head was bound up in what ap- 
peared to be a red stocking; the toe part of this article of attire 
nung carelessly over his left shoulder. He was a dirty looking little 
fellow, and had a large wen on one side of his forehead. Nature had 
determined to make him as hideous as possible, and some fellow- 
mortal had added to her handiwork, for a large scar, barely cica- 
trized, and apparently inflicted by a knife, extended across his face. 
This scar and the wen weTein the daytime a perpetual resort for 
blue-bottle flies. These insects, 1 subsequently observed, had a great 
affection for the frontispiece of the proprietor. 

" What do you want?" he asked in lingua franca, that undefined 
mixture of Italian, French, Greek, and Spanish, which is spoken 
throughout the Mediterranean. 

" 1 want a place to sleep in." 

" Place to sleep in? Sleep here," and he slowly subsided into his 
original position. 

Osman now began to address him, and in a whining tone said 
that 1 was his Effendi, a great person, with gold, not paper, in my 
pocket, and that 1 would pay liberally for accommodation. The 
allusion to the gold acted like a charm upon the Greek. 
Gold!" he said. "Gold! Let me see it!" 

1 took out a lira (a Turkish pound), and spinning it carelessly in 
the air, let it fall on an earthenware dish. The coin gave out a 
metallic ring. The Greek clutched at the fallen lira; but the nimble 
0«man was too quick for him, and picking it up returned it to roe. 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR, 43 



V I hare no rooms but this," said the proprietor, eagerly; " but I 
have a stable. Why not sleep in the stable? You. want a stable for 
your horses, and 1 will put down some clean straw for the Effendi. " 

Our horses were all this time tied up to a post outside. 1 was on 
the point of accepting his offer, so as to gain shelter for them as 
well as for ourselves, when the door opened. A strange figure 
loomed iu sight. 

" The Onbashee (corporal)," said the proprietor in a cringing tone, 
springing to his feet; and seizing several soldiers who were asleep on 
a bench, he rolled them on to the floor, thus making room for the 
new arrival. The latter, a dumpy-looking man, with a fez on his 
head, red regimental tiousers, and a short, yellow dressing-gown, 
sat down on the bench, and beckoned to me to sit by his side. The 
occupants of the room by this time were thoroughly aroused. A 
small boy, the exact counterpart of the proprietor, minus the scar 
and wen, speedily made some coffee. The fragrant, beverage was 
duly handed first to the Onbashee and myself, and then to Osman 
and Radford, the head of the latter being in close proximity to the 
ceiling of the establishment, 

I addressed the corporal, and told him 1 was an English traveler, 
who wanted a night's lodging. 

" English!" he cried, then springing to his feet he respectfully 
saluted, and said, " 1 thought, Effendf, that you were an Italian or 
a countryman of the Greek here," pointing to the proprietor of the 
place. *' Come along, sir;" leaving the building, he led me to a 
small building, apparently a guard-house, for in the room below 
there were ten soldiers, some rifles and accouterments being sus- 
pended on a rack on the wall. Ascending a few rickety stairs, I 
entered a small lobby. It was about ten feet square, and had no 
furniture save a wooden ledge. 

" This is my room," said the Onbashee. " You and the other 
Englishman can sleep here. 1 will sleep down-stairs with the 
men." Then bringing two blankets he threw them down on the 
ledge, saluted in a military fashion, and disappeared. 

" Queer place, sir," said Radford, looking round. " However, 
it is better than the hole down-stairs. Shall 1 sleep here, sir, or in 
the stable?" 

" On the floor," 1 replied. " Gk> and look after the horses, and 
then bring up some rugs." 

At daybreak Osman started for Scutari in search of the lost horse. 
A few hours later 1 took my gun, and went to see if I could find 
any snipe in a marsh near the town. About six p.m. Osman re- 
turned. It was easy to see from his crestfallen face that he had 
heard no news of the lost Obadiah. 

li At Gitcli! The horse has gone, Effendi," he said. "I have 
been to every farm-house near here, and no one has seen a black 
gelding with his tail cut short. Praise be to Allah that 1 cut all 
the horses' tails before starting; our animal will be different from 
the others in the neighborhood, a ad will be easily distinguished. 1 
went to the Pasha at Scutari," he added; " he has given orders to 
the police to search for the horse. When he is found, he will be 
sent after the Effendi by train to Ismid." 

Gitdi (it has gone), 1 began to hate that word. Later on, if our 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



tea had been stolen, Osman invariably greeted me with gitdi. It is 
the first word which a traveler in Turkey hears, he is kept in mind 
of it during his entire journey. There was nothing to be done but 
to hire anolher baggage- horse, and give orders tor a start at day- 
break. 

A few minutes before leaving Moltape, I went to the coporal, and 
put in his hand a dollar (medjidi), in return for the accommodation 
he had given me. There were several soldiers present. He declined 
the present with a grandiose air, adding that his home w T as mine, 
and that all strangers were welcome to the abode However, a few 
minutes later, when 1 was alone, he approached, and putting out his 
hand, said: " Effendi, no one is looking, 1 will accept a present." 
Human nature m all countries is much the same. The corporal's 
demeanor before the soldiers much resembled that of a railway 
porter when offered a tip in the presence of a railwa} r director. 

We rode through a beautiful country. Our track lay across a 
plain. It was surrounded by undulating hills. Pretty villas with 
Venetian windows decked their crests. Vines, fig, and other fruit 
trees studded the rising slopes. A few hours later the path became 
very bad. We made our way across deep, half-hidden ruts, which 
compelled us to advance with the greatest care for fear of breaking 
the horses' legs. 

We ascended a steep incline, and then, far away in the distance, 
and across the Bay of Ismid, are cone-shaped hills covered with 
fleecy snow. 

The path turned, w^e rode along the seashore. The railway ran 
along the side of the track, now ascending in tortuous coils, now 
disappearing altogether from our view, to appear once more in the 
distance, and almost level with the azure deep. Isot a ripple dis- 
turbed the surface of the waters; colored rocks and stones met our 
gaze as we glanced into the abyss below; f estoons of variegated sea- 
weed hung from the rugged cliffs. 

The sun's rays were fierce and scorching. In spite of its being the 
month of December, there was a glare as if on a July day. 1 was 
not sorry when, on reaching the crest of an adjacent hill, Osman 
dismounted, and suggested a halt for lunch. 

" A capital spot, Effendi," he remarked, "there is a spring of 
fresh water, a cave, and firewood. 1 have a beautiful goose, plump 
as a Georgian woman, in the saddle-bags. My brother," pointing 
to Radford, " shall cook him. Our stomachs grieve now, but soon 
they shall be comforted." 

He led the way to a sort of cavity in the rock. A fire was kindled, 
and the goose, the subject of Osman 's admiration, was shortly sim- 
mering on the embers. 

Presently the track became worse, if possible, than before. Several 
wooden bridges over deep and narrow gullies had to be crossed. 
There were no parapets to the bridges. Here and there holes a foot 
square let us see the stream below. Then we traversed lanes of 
water, in some places up to the horses' girths. The Hammall went 
first, and wended his- way with caution. Two ditches skirled the 
borders of the track; the rain had fallen heavily, and had one of 
our horses made a mistake or floundered, his rider w ould have found 
himself in at least six feet of water. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 45 



We were Hearing Isrnirt, the INicomedia of ancient history. Our 
tired animals seemed aware of its proximity; they quickened their 
pace. Very shortly afterward we rode into the town. 1 had sent 
forward a "messenger to tell the chief of the police that an English 
traveler was coming to Ismid, and to ask him to pi o vide me with 
lodgings for the night, there being no hotels in the place. 

1. was met at the entrance of the town by a Zaptieh, or gendarme. 
Going before us, he led the way to a house kept by a Greek. Here 
1 found two clean rooms furnished iu the European tashion. The 
Zaptieh, after inquiring if 1 had any orders to give him, left the 
room, saying that he would report my safe arrival to the Pasha. 

On the morrow L received a visit from the chief of the Telegraph 
department in lsmid— an Armenian who spoke French. On show- 
ing him a letter of introduction which I had received at Constanti- 
nople, for the Christian dignitaries in lsmid, he at once became 
very communicative, and hastened to relate a grievance which ; ac- 
cording to him, an Armenian had lately suffered owing to Turkish 
misiule. It appeared that this man had borrowed money from a 
Turk, and had given his wife's earrings and necklace as security 
for the debt. The arrangements for the loan had been made in the 
presence of my informant. " But now," he continued, '* comes the 
pith of the story. The Turk died. The Armenian, paying the 
debt to the dead man's heirs, asked for his wife's necklace and ear- 
rings. The Turk's family would not give them up. The Armenian 
appealed to the Cadi. The Cadi would not do justice, because it 
was the word of a Christian against the testimony of a Turk; and in 
such instances an Armenian's evidence goes for nothing. How- 
ever," added the speaker, " I telegraphed to the authorities in Con- 
stantinople. An order at once came for "justice to be done." 

Later on 1 walked through the town. It is built in the form of a 
half-moon, and is erected on the heights around the shore. Tiers 
and tiers of houses are perched up in out-of-the-way corners. Here 
a solitary one stands aloft like an eagle's nest and far above its fel- 
lows. .No order has been followed in the construction of these 
houses. Every sort of shape and pattern is to be seen. Many of 
them are like Swiss chalets. Their wooden walls are bright with an 
infinite variety of hues. 

It was, apparently, a washing-day. The nether garments and 
shirts of Turks and Christians were suspended from every window- 
sill. This apparel was of all the colors in the rainbow, and lit up 
the scene still more. There were a tew well-built stone buildings — 
amongst them the palace of the Pasha. 1 called upon this official 
in the afternoon, and found him a tall, fine-looking man, considera- 
bly over six feet in height. He was seated in European fashion upon 
a sofa, and not squatted on the floor like some others of his country- 
men who were present at the time of my visit. He spoke French 
fluently, and also Russian, having spent some years in the Turkish 
Consulate in Odessa; his residence there had nbt inspired him with 
any affection for the subjects of the Tzar, whom he cordially de- 
tested. 

V lour minister, Mr. Gladstone, hates us poor Turks quite as 
much as the Russians do," presently remarked the Pasha. 
** Mr. Gladstone is not a minister," 1 remarked, "he is not by any 



46 



OK HOBSEBACK THKOUGH ASIA MIKOK. 



means omnipotent in England. A great many of my countrymen 
have already evinced their sympathy tor your nation." 

" Yes," said the Pasha, * 4 that is true; they have sent medicines 
to our wounded soldiery. Gladstone is what you call a Liberal, is 
he not?" 

" He is one of the leaders of the Liberal party, and was its chief 
till he was turned out by the actual government." 

" Ah! I remember," said the Pasha. " He told the people of 
England that they must not drink after certain hours, and quarreled 
with your priests. 1 read all about it in the newspapers. It struck 
me as strange conduct in a man who calls himself a ' Liberal.' Has 
he many fiTends in Parliament?" 

" Yes, but not so many as formerly; his conduct about this 
Eastern question has drawn .away some of his most influential sup- 
porters. ' ' 

*' Well, at all events, if there is war, please God, we shall be 
allies." 

" Please God we shall," 1 replied, devoutly. 

" You know," he continued, " that we are much stronger than 
people in Europe believe. We can put an army of 700,000 men into 
the field." 

"Praise be to Allah!" interrupted an elderly Turk who was 
squatted on the carpet, at the same time gravely stroking his white 
beard. 

" Why is it that the people in England hate us so much?" in- 
quired the Pasha. 

!< Partly on account of the excesses of your irregular soldiers in 
Bulgaria, but mainly because you repudiated your debt. How 
should you like to have lent money and then receive no interest?" 

The Pasha laughed. 
Yes, you are right. It was a great mistake. But that is all 
Russia's fault. Her agents brought about the revolution in the 
Herzegovina. Her functionaries encouraged Sultan Abdul Aziz in 
his extravagance, and were the main cause of the debt being repu- 
diated. They thought that tins would make us unpopular with 
England, and they were very right in their conjectures. There is 
plenty of wealth in Turkey," he continued.. "If it were not for 
the impending war, we could pay some part of our interest now; 
but Russia will not let us be quiet. She compels us to keep up a 
large army. Her agents bring about massacres of Christians, and 
set the whole world against us."* 

" If there is a war, 1 hope that we shall cut the throats of all the 
Russians," interrupted the old gentleman on the carpet. 

" Allah grant that we may!" exclaimed the rest of the assembly. 

Coffee and pipes were now handed round, and my interview came 
to an end, the Pasha having kindly given orders for a telegram to be 
sent to Scutari, to inquire if anything had been heard of my runaway 
horse, stl y;<o ; ;''u,>t: ;.< ' .'V;trrr 

..^•>'.-,-j':r-)V;- ;»t/'» .'.j-ytif jagjs '♦>.: v sMivJni •^•"'MLL 3& '-hi''- •iUrtW-t 

* These statements of the Pasha are confirmed to some extent by two official 
reports.— See Appendices IV. and V. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA 3IIXOR. 47 



CHAPTER Tit 

In the evening 1 called, upon our Armenian bishop. He lived in 
a quaint, old-fashioned house in the Christian quarter of the town, 
the Turks and Armenians inhabiting different districts in lsmid, as 
in many other Turkish cities. Refreshments were now brought in 
on a silver tray, aud several kinds of jam handed round in little 
silver dishes. The guest taking a spoonful of jam is expected to 
swallow it; he then drinks a glass of water. This is an economical 
refreshment; a very little jairTgoes a long way in the entertainment. 

" How do you like it?" said one of the party. 

" Very good," 1 replied, at the same time having that sort of feel- 
ing in my mouth which carried my memory back to boyish davs, 
and to the gray powders which my old nurse used to administer, 
" very good." 

" We always treat our guests in this manner," said an old 
Armenian pompously. " It is the custom of our nation." 

Now the conversation turned upon the Turks in lsmid, and it was 
pleasant to hear that some of the Turkish officials were well spoken 
of , even by the Armenians. 

" The chief of police here is a capital fellow," observed one of the 
company. " During the Ramazan, one of our people was smoking 
in the streets, a Mohammedan went up to him and struck him with a 
stick. The chief of the police, who happened to be passing by, saw 
this. He approached and said: ' Why did you strike that man?' 
'Because he was smoking during Ramazan.' 'Did he put the 
cigarette in your eye?' ' ISo.' * Then you had no Dusiness to strike 
him. You shall go to prison and learn to behave better for the 
future.' " 

"Yes," said another of the guests: "the Turkish papers pub- 
lished the story, and highly praised the conduct of the official." 

" The Turkish government is not so bad, " observed a third gen- 
tleman. " It wishes justice to be carried out impartially throughout 
the empire; but, so long as the cadis refuse to take the word of a 
Christian as evidence, it will be difficult for us to live with any 
degree of comfort." 

" After all," he continued, " this is an abuse which has crept in 
amidst tne Turkish officers. The Koran says that the testimony of 
a Christian witness is to be taken as evidence, but nowadays many 
of the Mohammedans have forgotten the Koran." 

In the evening: a telegram arrived from the Pasha at Scutari. It 
was to the effect that nothing had been heard of my horse; however, 
so soon as the animal was found he should be sent after me. This 
would have been useless. There was no rail beyond lsmid. and 1 
intended to start the following morning. In consequence of this 1 
wrote to a friend at the British embassy^ to ask him, in the event of 
the horse being found, to have the animal sold .it the market in 
Constantinople. Meantime, 1 sent Osman to hire a post-horse to 
carry my baggage as far as Sabanja, a small village about twenty 
miles from lsmid, on the road to Angora. Just as we were leaving 



48 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



Ismid, two Zaptieh, or mounted police, rode up. They had been 
ordered by the Pasha to escort me as far as Sabanja. Smart-looking 
fellows they were, too, with light-blue jackets, red trousers, and 
Hessian boots. Each of them carried a repeating-rifle slung across 
his shoulder. Kevolvers were stuck in the crimson sashes which 
encircled their waists. Short cimeters, but with no hilt-guards to 
protect the hand, were slung from their sword-belts, 

It is singular that the Turkish military authorities, who have 
adopted the modern armament in so far as fire-arms are concerned, 
should be still so backward in the manufacture of swords. A 
cavalry soldier, armed with a Turkish sword without a hilt, would 
have very little chance if engaged in a hand-to-hand encounter with 
a dragoon supplied with one of our own weapons. 

After riding for about half an hour in the direction of Sabanja, 
Kadford, who was leading a pack-horse, remarked to Osman: 

" What have you done with the post-horse?" 

The Turk did not understand the question. When it was inter- 
preted to him, he replied: 

" The animal is in front with the Zaptieh." 

As it is always as well to put a Turk's statement to the test, 1 
determined to trot on ahead and look for myself. The Zaptieh had 
not seen the horse. It appeared that after loading him, Osman had 
started the animal, much in the same way as an Irishman does a 
pig, with the object of driving him before our pa*rty. We now all 
dispersed in different directions, and finally after a two hours' 
search, discovered the animal tied up by the side of a khan, an old 
woman who had observed the horse wandering; about having attach- 
ed him to a post. 

The track now became much worse than anything 1 had previous- 
ly seen. In many places there were quite four feet of mud. It 
reached our horses' girths, and with the greatest difficulty we were 
able to force a passage. 

Presently we came to a hollow in the path. Here a cart drawn 
by four oxen w 7 as at a standstill. The bullocks, with only their 
necKs and shoulders out of the mud, gazed plaintively before them. 
The two drivers had taken off their trousers and under clothes; 
their shirts were tucked up to their armpits; they waded through 
the black slime, and goaded the bullocks forward. 

A creaking noise was heard from the ponderous wheels. The four 
bullocks put forth all their strength; it was a useless effort, one of 
them pulled the cart a little to one side, the next instant it was upset 
ana half buried in the mire. The two men, with nought on them 
save little red fez caps and with their tucl;ed-up shirts, presented a 
doleful picture. They were not burdened with much flesh, and the 
libs and shoulder-bones were prominently thrown into relief by the 
coating of mud, which reached as high as their waists. One poor 
fellow^ wading up to us, asked Osman to give him a light for his 
pipe. The other one, looking more wo-begotten, if possible, than 
his fellow, had no pipe, and mournfully asked for a cigarette. 

" Effendi," said Osman, " this is a dreadful place. We may he 
upset. Our horses will not get through. Better go back to Ismid, 
and wait there till the mud becomes hard." 

" No; go on. Horses can march where bullocks cannot." 



01$ HORSEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MliTOR. 49 



Osman turned white; he was riding: a little in advance of me, and 
did not at all like being sent forward to experiment upon the depth 
ot the mire. 

" He is a poor creature," observed Radford, contemptuously. 
" Lor, sir, what else can we expect ot them? The} T don't drink no 
beer. They turn hup their noses at wine. Hosman's blood ain't 
no thicker than ditch-water— I will lay a pound it ain't," 

Our saddle-bags were covered with mud when we gained a foot- 
ing on the other side. Osman, ridiug up to my side, congratulated 
himself on having guided us through in safety. 

" Your face is very white," I observed. 

" Yes, Effendi, my blood has turned to milk. It was not for my- 
self, it was for the Effendi. 1 thought that he might be suffocated. 
Osman is yours, you can do with him what you like." 

All these were very pretty speeches; however, I had been suffi- 
ciently often in the East to know how to appreciate them at their 
true value. 1 felt tolerably certain that if Osman's courage was ever 
put to the test, he would be found to value his existence in this world 
more than the society of a million beautiful wives in the world to 
come. 

After all, he would have been no exception to mankind in general. 
1 remember during the last Caiiist war hearing a story about a priest 
wno, on the eve of an expected battle, addressed the soldiers in his 
battalion, and informed them that whoever was slain in the morrow's 
right should sup with Kuestro Senor in Paradise. The morrow 
came, the battle raged, and the Carlists were beaten— the priest's 
battalion being the first to run away, headed by the divine himself, 
who, tucking up his cassock, ran as fast as his legs could carry him. 
A soldier touched the leverend gentleman on the shoulder, and said, 
" You told us. my father, that whoever was slain in to-day's fight 
should sup in Paradise, but you are running away." " My son/' 
replied the Cura, who was very much out of breath, " 1, I — never 
sup — 1 suffer from a weak digestion — 1 only dine. " Some people in 
England believe that a doctrine of predestination makes the Turkish 
soldiers indifferent to death. This may be true in a few isolated in- 
stances; but, as a rule, both Turks and Christians have an extreme 
dislike to the dread ordeal. 

The track became firmer. We overtook some Bashi Bazouks re- 
turning from Bulgaria. They were most of them Circassians, and 
one could speak Russian. He was very indignant at having been 
ordered home, and brandishing his long lance, with bright steel point 
at least twelve inches long, regretted that he had lost the opportunity 
of transfixing a few giaour Russians. 

" Did you kill many women?" 1 inquired. 

"There were some killed," he replied. "It was a pity. We 
were sorry for it; but what would you-have our men do? Some of 
their own mothers and sisters had been ravished and then butchered 
by the Russians." 

" Have any ot your relatives been treated in this way?" Inquired. 
^ " No," he said; " but in a village not far from Gumri, some hor- 
rible cruelties have recently taken place, many women and children 
were slain, and all because they wished to leave Russia and go to 
Turkey. 



50 Otf HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" If my mother or sister had been killed, 1 should not be particular 
as to how I avenged her," he continued. " These cowardly Russians 
set us ihe example." 

There was no sort of similarity in the attire of the Bashi Bazouks. 
Each man had dressed himself accoiding to his fancy; the broad 
sashes around their waists were stuck full of pistols and daggers. 
The fire-arms, too, were of the most primitive kind; some men~kad 
old-fashioned muskets of the Tower pattern, and others were armed 
with double-barreled guns, which had been converted from flint to 
percussion. Their horses looked hard and fit for work; they were 
as a rule not more than fourteen hands high, and their rough, shaggy 
coats reminded me a little of the Cossack horses which 1 have seen in 
the neighborhood of the Don. 

The scenery improves as we approach Sabanja. The flat country 
previously traversed gives way to rising mountains. They bound 
our view toward the west. On my bridle-hand is a wide lake. It 
lies like a mirror almost at our feet. Many colored grasses and 
shiubs clothe the slopes which lead down to the limpid water. Acres 
upon acres of rich grass-land — such as would make the mouth of a 
Leicestershire farmer water with envy — surround Sabanja on every 
side. We ride into the village; it consists of about 200 houses, 
mostly built of dried mud, and with much difficulty 1 obtain ac- 
commodation for the night. 

, Long before daybreak we were in the saddle. Our road wound 
through mountain passes. Huge clouds of mist slowly rose from 
the surface of the lake; they floated away into space, and appeared 
like icebergs as seen in the horizon. Now we rode by a place where 
preparations had been made for the construction of a railway. 
Sleepers were lying by the side of a partly-made embankment. On 
inquiry, no work had been going on for two years. There was to 
have been a railway to Angora, but" Para yoke, there is no money," 
was the answer to my questions on the subject. 

Presently we came up to a caravan of mules laden with tea and 
bound for Angora. The road was very narrow, there was barely 
room for two horses abreast. One mule turning his head toward 
the bank, blocked up the entire path; a blow from our Zaptich's 
whip recalled him to consciousness. Backing a few yards he slipped, 
and rolled with his burden down the slope. The owner cursed, and 
the other muleteers coming up seemed rather to enjoy his discomfit- 
ure. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The road became more level. We encountered caravans of cam- 
els, the animals not being led by a cord attached to a peg through 
the nose, but by a halter loosely fastened round the neck. 

They were fine beasts, and covered with shaggy hair. This, 1 
was informed, is cut off at certain seasons in the year, and is then 
converted into a material for tents and rugs. Each caravan was 
headed by a man riding a donkey, the pace of the latter being if 
anything a little superior to that of the huge camels behind them. 

We continued along the left bank of the river Sakaria, a rapid 
stream, sixty yards wide and with steep banks; presently we crossed 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI2s T OR. 



51 



it on a stone bridge, very much out of repair. The center part had 
fallen away. This had been replaced by wooden beams covered 
with loose' earth. Presently we came to a large valley abounding 
with corn, vines, and mulberry-trees, and 1 halted for the night in 
the vallage of Geiweh. The Mudir, a sort of local mayor, came out 
to meet us,and insisted that I should be his guest. He was a very 
communicative man, and informed me that rakoob Khan was about 
to bring an army of 50,000 men to assist the Sultan. 
" How will he come?" 1 inquired. 

"By the sea," remarked my host, his geographical knowledge 
about Kashgar not being very extensive. He next informed me that 
Persia was supposed to be very friendly toward Russia, and that the 
Turks hated the Persians, but liked the Christians, with the excep- 
tion of the Greeks, whom they believed to be in league with the 
Tzar. 

Shortly after leaving Geiweh, the valley takes a circular form, 
and is at least three miles in diameter; hills with slopes well adapted 
tor artillery fire surround it on every side. The little stream Kara 
Su, which is only knee deep, traverses the district, and finds its way 
a few miles further down into the Sakaria. The Geiweh valley 
would be a magnificent position into which to entice a careless gen- 
eral. The exit toward the east is by a steep ravine with precipitous 
banks, and on the west it is blocked by the Sakaria. 

We now reached Terekli, a small town with about 800 houses. 
Every house was full of soldiers, who were en route to the capital. 
The sun was descending over the mountain tops as we rode through 
the narrow streets. Hundreds of Bashi Basouks were performing 
wild evolutions in the plain below; some men were firing at a target 
from horseback at a gallop, others whirling their rifles about to the 
imminent danger of the by standers. The many colored dresses of 
this guerilla soldiery and of the lookers on lit up the surroundings 
of the landscape. The wild shouts of the horsemen re-echoed over 
the mountains. From the distant peaks the bleating of the goats 
could be faintly heard, as the shepherds were driving them home for 
shelter. This sound was mingled with the lowing of cattle and the 
rippling of the stream below, it was a romantic picture. It vivid- 
ly recalled to my mind some scenes in the Basque province during 
the late Carlist war. 

The soldiers started at four the following morning, singing in 
chorus as they marched through the streets. An hour later we 
continued our journey through a mountainous district strewed with 
blocks of granite, and soon afterward crossed the little river Goo- 
nook, another tributary ol the Sakaria.* Here the scenery is very 
wild; the hills are of all shapes and forms, as if cast down at hap- 
hazard by the Titans of old. Now we find a series of natural bas- 
'tions and ramparts, looking as if they had been chiseled out of the 
hard white rocks, and then aDproach a slate mountain, large black 
stones lying about in endless profusion. Presently we ride along a 
path bounded on both sides by a precipice. Our track twines like a 
silver thread amidst the crags which hide the way before us. 

* For routes which cross the Sakaria, and traverse Asia Minor, see Appen- 
dix XIV. 

■ 



52 OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR, 

We round a corner. A small village is seen below, Torbali is 
reached, and a Bey, the great man of the place, invites us to share 
his d (veiling. 

A little later, a black slave brought me as a present from his mas- 
ter, some small trout and fresh eggs. The slave could talk Arabic. 
He had been Dorn near Gondokoio, and had been kidnapped from 
that part of the world by a party of Arabs under Sir Samuel Baker's 
bete noire, Abou Saood. 1 asked him if he would like to return to 
bis own country. 

"Yes," lie said, " if the Effendi is going there svith Abou Saood. 
We could then catch plenty of slaves. 1 know where to find them," 
he added, " we should soon become rich." 

There is an old proverb, " Set a thief to catch a thief," but here 
it seemed equally applicable to slaves. 1 was struck by the extreme 
eagerness to kidnap his countrymen which was evinced by this negro 
gentleman. 

" Well," I said, " how are you treated by your master?" 

" He is a good man," was the reply, " there is plenty to eat, and 
not much to do. One thing is bad here," he added, " the master 
does not drink sharab (wine). 1 like sharab — lots of sharab, it makes 
one gay. Will the Effendi give me a little sharab V 

" ' 1 have not any. 1 do not drink myself . " 
And yet you are rich," said the slave. " You have money to 
buy it, happy man that you are. If 1 were like you, I would drink, 
drink, drink, .all day and all night!" 

" But Osman does not drink, be attends to the Prophet's laws." 

" Osman is a horse; he does not know what is good," was the re- 
ply. 

At this moment the voice of the Bey was heard. " Gell!" (come) 
resounded through the building ; the negro, leaving me, hurried oft 
to nis master. 

It was a nine hours' march to Mudurlu, our next halting-place, 
the route leading through a very mountainous district. The village 
or small town of Mudurlu contains 800 mud-houses, which, at the 
average rate of five people to a, lamily, would give about 4,000 in- 
habitants. The traveler, when journeying in this part of Anatolia, 
is much struck by the absence of shops. He may pass through vil- 
lage after village, small town after small town, and, unless it be 
market day, he will be unable to purchase anything. 

" Can I buy some meat?" 1 would inquire of Osman. 

" We will see, Effendi. 1 will run to the khan, and inquire of 
the people there." 

This was Osman 's favorite amusement. Under the pretense of 
making purchases, he would go to the different khans, talk for some 
time to the assembled villagers about his own merits, drink several 
cups of coffee, and return. 

" Well, where is the meat?" 

" Effendi, -there is no meat." 

" Have you been to look?" 

" Look, Effendi ! My clothes are moist with perspiration. But 
there are some chickens, they will do for our dinner." 

This was the daily food— chicken. It is not a bad diet if a man 
is Jiving a sedentary life, and not taking much exercise, but after a 



OH HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MWOB. 53 



nine hours' lide lie requires something a little more nourishing. 
Toujours perdrix was too much for a French cardinal ; if the holy 
gentleman had been riding through Turkey, he would have found 
tovjeurs poulet an equally substantial diet. A crowd assembled to 
see us depart. The people in Mudurlu taking as much interest in 
an "Englishman as the inhabitants of London would take in a chim- 
panzee or newly anived guerilla. Asiatics have a very high opinion 
of our skill as manufacturers. English goods can be met with in al- 
most every large town in Anatolia, and the Turks prefer English 
merchandise to the cheaper but interior articles sent from Belgium 
or America. 

The Zaptieh who went with me was a magnificent-looking fellow. 
Picture to yourself a tall, dark Circassian, with large, piercing eyes, 
and carefuilv-trimmed beard— a striking contrast to the huge white 
turban which surrounded his fez. He was dressed in a green jacket 
with red facings; a blue waistcoat peered from beneath it, and a 
pair of green trousers and red leather boots covered his extremities. 
He was armed with a sword and revolver, and, when the road per- 
mitted, was continually exercising his horse. Now he would break 
into a gallop, go at headlong speed tor fifty yards, then, pulling his 
steed almost on his haunches, he would start in another direction, 
and, bending from the saddle-bow, touch the ground. All this was 
done with the most consummate grace and ease — in fact, as if horse 
and rider were one. 

Soon we left behind us the light, sandy soil which admitted of 
such-like evolutions. A chain of steep heights had to be passed. 
The mud became at each moment deeper. The baggage animals 
had great difficulty in ascending with their loads. We were strug- 
gling up an almost perpendicular height. At our feet, and at least 
forty yards below, yawned a deep abyss. The path itself was in no 
place more than ten feet wide. The sound of an oatlt*issuing from 
Osman's lips attracted my attention. One baggage-horse lay on the 
ground ; he was kicking violently, and his head and shoulders were 
over the precipice. Osman had thrown my rifle into the mud, so as 
to be able to use his hands more freely, and was endeavoring to 
make his way to the fallen animal. The Turk's nigh boots came 
half off each time he lifted his feet, owing to the sticky nature of 
the soil. Luckily, peihaps, for us it was so sticky; the gun-case, 
which w T as buried in the clay, kept the horse from rolling. The 
Circassian and Radford bad time to reach his head. Pulling off the 
pack-saddle, they divided the luggage among the other animals. 
"We gradually gained the summit of the hill. 



CHAPTER IX. 

It was quite dark when we reached Nalihan, a village with about 
400 houses, and situated in a corn-growing district. 1 halted at the 
house of the Caimacan. He at once invited .me to take up my abode 
tbere for tho night. Presently several visitors appeared — Armenians, 
Turks, and Circassians— all eager to question the new arrival. 1 
was seated in the place of honor, on a rug near the fire, the Caima- 
can, who was enveloped in a fur-lined dressing-gown, sat next me. 



54 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



The rest of the company took precedence according to the amount 
of this world's goods which each one possessed — the man who had 
100 cows being seated next to the governor, and the humble possess- 
or of a mule or a few sheep squatting humbly by the door. 

Asiatics are proverbially reticent. My visitors stared at each other, 
and did not say a word/ At last the Caimacan broke the silence. 
He was wrapped up in a fur dressing gown, and looked like an 
animated bundle. He gave a little cough, and then said, "Is there 
any news? if so, tell us something." Now the inhabitants of Asia 
Minor do not talk about the weather— the state ot the roads replaces 
that topic of conversation so interesting to English people. 

" The roads are very bad," 1 replied. 

To this there was no dissent, everybody chorused the wish for a 

UQXtewc?, '='!>' ~WiV Zim •,:;!-: ;tm,-.h ■ hil Jvyr^vroij* 
" Do you think that one will ever be made?" inquired the Camia- 
can. 

" Probably when you have some money in the exchequer." 
" Wearevery poor; whydoes notyour nalion lend us some gold?" 
4< "We have already given you more than a hundred millions; with 
that money you mighthave made rail ways in every part of Anatolia. " 
" Will there be war?" asked an Imaum (priest). 
" I don't know." 

" If there is," he added, " 1 shall go— all the Imaums will go; we 
will fight by the side of our countrymen. We will kill all the Mus- 
covites." 

" Has it not occurred to you," 1 here remarked, " that perhaps 
they may kill all the Turks?" 

" Impossible! Allah and the Prophet are on our side; they will 
fight for the faithful." 

" What do you think yourself?" now inquired the Caimacan; 
" will Russia beat us?" 

" Certainly— that is, if you have no European allies." 

" Why so?" 

" Because if your government had to put out alt its strength to 
conquer the Servians, assisted by only 12,300 Russians, what op- 
position will it be able to make to an army of 7,000,000 Muscovites?" 

"May their mothers be defiled!" said an old farmer. " Ihey 
are always interfering with us. All my sons have gone to the war, 
and 1 — well, if the Paddish wants me, 1 will go too." 

He was apparently an octogenarian. This announcement on his 
part was received with great applause by the rest of the company. 

" Why do you not give the Armenians arms, and make them as- 
sist?" 1 inquired. 

" They are friends with the Russians," said the Imaum. They 
would turn against us. Have you Armenians in your country?" 

"No." 

" But you are a Christian, and they are Christians — you must be 
the same." .'4m <> f- •ai'ff BBli 

1 now had to explain to the company that there is as much differ- 
ence between an English Protestant and an Armenian Christian, as 
between a Sunnite and a Shiite. 

" And do you hate the Armenians as much as the Shiiteshateus?" 



01s HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 55 



" We do not hate anybody. Our religion does not allow us to 
do so." 

" You Christians are strange people," said the priest, rising; he 
left the room, followed by the rest of the visitors. 

The scenery is very lovely in this neighborhood, and as we as- 
cended an incline which leads in the direction of Angora, 1 could 
not help wishing that, 1 had been bom a painter, in order to have 
placed on canvas a picture of the landscape. A succession of hills, 
each one loftier than its fellow, broke upon us, as we climbed the 
steep. They were of all forms, shades, and colors, ash-giay, blue, 
vermilion, robed in imperial purple, and dotted with patches of vege- 
tation. Our road wound amidst these chameleon-like heights. Sil- 
very rivulets streamed down the sides of the many-colored hills. A 
rising sun showered its gleaming rays upon the sparkling cascades. 
They flashed and reflected the tints and shadows. A gurgling sound 
of many waters arose from the depths below. 

We reached the summit of the highest hill. The scene changes. 
We look down npon a vast plain. It is surrounded on ali sides by 
undulating heights. The white sandy soil of the valley throws still 
more into relief the many-colored mountains. Patches of snow deck 
the more distant peaks. The sun is dispelling the flossy clouds which 
overhang the loftier crags. The filmy vapor floats away into space; 
caressing for a few moments the mountains' crests, it is wafted 
onward, and then disappears from our view. 

Now we crossed a rapid stream, about thirty yards wide, and 
known as the Altai river. A fragile bridge spans the waters. Soon 
afterward we put up for the night at a farm house in the village of 
Tchairhana. The proprietor, a jolly-looking Turk, received us very 
hospitably. Later on in the evening he brought me a large yorgan, 
or Turkish counterpane, with the remark that possibly the Effendi 
might feel cold during the night. 

The Turkish beds are very primitive; no bedstead being used. 
One or two mattresses are«laid on the floor, the yorgan takes the 
place of sheets or blankets. It consists of a silk quilt, generally 
lined with linen, and stuffed with feathers. These quilts pass from 
father to son, and are greatly prized by the Turks. The farmer, to 
make me appreciate his attention the more highly, remarked that 
the yorgan had been used by his grandfather, as well as by his father, 
on their wedding- nights, and that he himself had employed it on a 
similar occasion only a few weeks previous^. 

Osman now interrupted the speaker with the remark that in his 
family there was also a wonderful yorgan— something quite out of 
the common, it was so beautiful that neither his wife nor himself 
liked to use it— and that this one was like a furze bush in com- 
parison. 

" So you are married, Osman?" 1 remarked. 

" Yes; but 1 have not seen my wife for three years." 

" Do you love her very much?" 

i4 She is a good cook. She maKes soup which is more filling than 
even my brother's, here," pointing to Kadford. 
" Is she pretty?" 

" Effendi, I could not afford to marry a good-looking girl. There 
was one in our village—such a pretty one, with eyes like a hare and 



56 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



plump as a turkey— but she could not cook, and tier father wanted 
too much tor her." 

" Well, what did you give for your present wife?" 

"Ten ]iras (Turkish pounds), but she did not weigh more than 
forty okas (about 100' lbs.). She was very cheap. However, her 
eyes are not quite straight: they look in different directions. But 
that does not signify — she can cook." 

" Yes," said the farmer; 44 a good cook, Effendi, that is what 1 
said to myself when 1 wanted a wife. Looks don't last, but cook- 
ing is an art which the Prophet himself did not despise." 

1 had no reason to congratulate myself upon being the occupant 
of the farmer's nuptial couch. It was very bid and very beautiful, 
but it was full of fleas, and they gave me no rest. 

" You ought to burn that quilt," 1 observed, next morning, to 
the farmer. 44 I have not closed my eyes during the entire night." 

" What, burn my grandfather's marriage yorgan — my father's 
yorgan, and my own yorgan! Never, Effendi I There are fleas, it 
is true, but they will die, antl the quilt will do for my son and bis 
wife, if ever he has one." 

The country which we next traversed was entirely uncultivated, 
although it would have well repaid a farmer. This, however, is the 
case with millions of acres in Turkey. There aie no laborers. The 
country is depopulated to the last degree, and land which might 
produce wheat enougn for the whole of Great Britain is left fallow. 

Presently we came' to an old khan. It had been built by a former 
sultan, as a refuge for travelers during the winter. At this season 
of the year the ground is sometimes covered with snow for several 
weeks in succession, and traveling is very dangerous. Two soldiers 
were the sole tenants of the building. Whilst 1 w^as performing my 
ablutions in the open air, one of them came to me and asked for a 
little tea. His comrade was ill, and tea he thought would be good 
for him. 1 went to look at the invalid. He was lying on a dirty 
mattress, and was shivering violently, it was clearly a ease of 
fever, so taking some quinine from my medicine chest, I adminis- 
tered a dose, and directed his comrade to procure a clean bed for 
the sufferer. The sick man was very grateful. Eagerly seizing my 
hand, ne kissed it. 

44 What countryman are you?" 

44 1 am English." 

44 Your religion is not that of Islam?" 
44 No." 

" What are you?" 

44 1 am a Protestant." 

44 Protestant," repeated the poor fellow, " 1 shall remember that. 
A Christian," he continued, 44 even if he had the medicine, would 
have let me die like a dog. ' ' 

It was very clear that the sufferer had not much opinion. of the 
Armenian and Greek Christians. But this was no solitary expressed 
opinion. Throughout my journey, 1 found Armenians and Greeks 
equally despised by the Mohammedans. It is a great pity that the 
votaries of Christianity in the East should have brought the only 
pure religion into so great disrepute. 



OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



57 



CHAPTER X. 

There was something on my English servant's mind that evening. 
He did not look happy, and eyed Osman from time to time with 
lowering looks. 

" My brother is angry with me, Effendi," said the Turk, in an- 
swer to my inquiries. " When he speaks 1 do not understand, 
when I speak he does not know what 1 say.*' 

" What is the matter, Radford?" Tasked. 

" Please, sir, I ain't had no dinner. 1 did not prepare anything 
for you as the cook in the house was a preparing it. Well, when 
you had finished, and Osman had brought out the dishes, 1 thought 
that 1 should get something to eat. But no, sir! for Osman invited 
a lot of dirty Turks to come and sit round the victuals. Some of 
the chaps had just come out of the stable, and their hands were that 
dirty. Then they began a shoving them into the dishes and a lick- 
ing their fingers. It turned me hup, that it did. Osman ought to 
know better, sir. Whenever 1 cooks tor you 1 always give him a 
tit-bit for himself." 

1 now explained the matter to Osman, and at the same time in- 
formed him that in future he must look after his English companion 
at dinner-time. The difficulty was amicably arranged, and the two 
men shook hands together, Osman wishing to show his affection in 
a more demonstrative manner; this, however, was not appreciated 
by my domestic. 

*' Lor! how they kisses each other, just like a lot of great girls. 
Do the Roossians kiss each other?" 

" lies, Radford." 

" They must be a poor lot then, sir. 1 have always heard that one 
Englishman could lick two Frenchmen, and 1 believed it; but I'll 
be blessed if 1 could not lick half a dozen Roossians, if they have 
no more in them than these 'ere dirty Turks." 

We left Bei Bazar at daybreak. Osman, as usual, did not take 
the trouble to lead one of the baggage-horses, but drove the animal 
before him. Presently we passed through a narrow passage. On 
each side were two walls; the pack-saddle struck against one of 
them, and Radford's bag, containing the article which he prized, 
perhaps, most in the world, some pig tobacco, was torn open. 

" 1 never seed such a fellow as that Osman," exclaimed my indig- 
nant servant, " he is always a ; telling of us as how he is industrious, 
and || there is a ha'porth of work to do he will borrow a penny and 
give it to some chap to do the job for him. I believe, sir, as how 
that fellow is a-cheating the horses of their forage. He told me that 
he fed them in the morning before 1 was up. He is a liar, he is. 1 
was dressed a long time before him, and when he did show himself 
he was busy the whole time a-praying and a-doing something with 
a little gallipot he carries in his saddle-bags. 1 don't believe the 
horses have had a teed of corn this twenty-four hours." 

1 began myself to be skeptical about Osman's honesty. 



58 03? HOESEBACK THEOtJGH ASIA MIKOR. 



1 was paying as much for the forage of the five horses as if 1 had 
been in England. The poor brutes were getting thinner every day. 

1 determined to stop at a farm-house and bu} T some barley. On 
giving this to the horses, they ate it ravenously, thus confirming my 
suspicions. 

' ' Osman, you did not feed the. horses this morning !' ' 1 exclaimed. 

" Feed them, Effendi! 1 fed all of them!" 

" But see how hungry they are, they have eaten all the barley you 
have just given them." 

" Yes, sir, they are wonderful horses. They are always hungry. 
It is a good sign in a horse to be always hungry. " 

1 was not to be taken in by this remark, and so desired Radford 
in future to see the horses fed. At ttie same time I resolved to keep 
a sharp look out on Osman. It was true that a considerable portion 
of his time was spent in praying; however, I began to be of my 
English servant's opinion, that when the Turk was not engaged, in 
prayer, he was cither planning or executing a iheft, and that all 
these devotions were performed merely with the view of throwing 
me off my guard. 

We crossed the Tchechmet; it is a tributary of the Sakaria river, 
and about thirty yards wide. There was a wooden bridge over the 
stream, but without any parapets; the height from the water being 
about twelve feet. This river is fordable in many places, and banks 
are not precipitous, and the bottom is turn. 

A messenger, sent forward from the village of Ayash, had informed 
the Mudir at Istanos, our next station, that an English traveler was 
on the road. The official, attended by the Cadi and two or three 
Zaptiehs, came out to meet us. All the party, with the exception 
of the gendarmes, were clad in long, dark blue dressing-gowns, 
which dragged some distance below the riders' stinups. The mule 
which the" Cadi rode was not of a quiet disposition; from time to 
time he kicked as violently as a mule can kick, at his master's robe, 
the cadi saving himself by clinging convulsively to the Uigh pommel 
of the saddle. 

Istanos is a little distance from the direct road to Angora. There 
was no other good halting-place in the neighborhood, so l determined 
to make a slight detouj'^&nd remain there for the night — the more 
particularly as Istanos is a village of historic fame, tbe tradition 
being still extant, that it is the place* where Alexander the Great 
cut. the Gordian knot. The village, which contains 400 houses — 
half belonging to the Armenians/ half to lurks— is on the right 
bank of the river Owas. A lofty rock overhangs the stream, and 
according to the Mudir, there were several huge caverns which in 
days long gone by had been inhabited by bands of marauders. 

Later on I procured a guide, and walked to the foot of the rock. 
A narrow pathway was cut in the solid stone. The track was not 
more than twelve inches wide, as we ascended it became narrower 
at every moment. At last we arrived at a spot where the path had 
given way. There was a chasm about twelve feet wide. The guide 

* Opinions are divided about this: some people assuring me that it happen- 
ed at Ayash» others at Istanos. 



OK HOESEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOE. 59 



hesitated, and no wonder, for if he had essayed the leap and missed 
it, he must have fallen at least a hundred feet on the crags below. 

" Efrendi," he said, " I will try and cross if you like, but it my 
foot slips 1 shall be killed. You can see the entrance to the caverns 
from the place where you are standing." 

it was n3t possible, even if 1 had wished it, to pass him and try the 
jump myself. The sun was nearly down, and ere a rope could be 
brought night would be upon us. Reluctantly 1 retraced my steps, 
having to go backward for some distance owing to the narrowness 
of the ledge. Should any other traveler chance to visit lstanos, and 
be able to stay there a day or two, it would be well worth his while 
to procure a rope and examine these, as far as 1 can learn, un- 
explored grottoes. 

On returning to the Mudir's house, 1 found a levee of the princi- 
pal inhabitants, Armenians as well as Turks. I was then informed 
lhat they had come tD welcome me to their village. The real reason 
being that they wished to hear the latest news from Constantinople. 
IN'o newspapers find their way to these out-of-the-way villages. 
The inhabitants can only learn what is going on in the capital 
through the arrival of a traveler. 

An old Armenian priest was one of the visitors. He sat by the 
side of the Mudir, on a raised platform in the center of the room. 
The legs of these two gentlemen were entirely hid from view, and 
although the room was very chilly where 1 was sitting, the rest of 
the party did not seem to feel the low temperature. 1 now discov- 
ered that there was a hole in the platform. A pan of live charcoal 
had been placed in the recess. The natives enveloped in furs, and 
with their feet over the embers, were able to witnstand the cold. 
The platform was partly covered with a Persian rug. A divan 
alongside the walls made up the furniture of the room. In the 
background and near the door stood the servants of the Mudir, and 
the less important inhabitants. It was not considered etiquette for 
them to sit in the presence of their superiors. They remained with 
arms folded and eyes bent down in token of humility. "When the 
Mudir thought that they had humbled themselves sufficiently he 
made a sign to them. They ail squatted down on their haunches. 

" Has the Conference commenced?" inquired the Mudir. 

jjorj.X^-'Qi a iiii-i Stored V' pi »nS«f ? V" 

" What is it all about?" said another old Turk, the Cadi. 
" It is to see if arrangements can be made so as to prevent war," 

1 replied. 

" But we do not want to go to war with any one," said the Mudir. 
" Russia wishes to go to war with us." 

" Why is the Conference not held at St. Petersburg?" asked an- 
other of his visitors. 

" Because Russia is strong, and we are weak— the other powers 
are afraid of Russia," said the Cadi. 

" Do Englishmen like Russia?" inquired the Mudir. 

V Some do, and some do not," 1 replied. 
" Do you?" 

V 1 like the people, but do not like the government" 
-Why?" & 



60 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" Because it is a despotic form of government, and in my opinion 

all despotisms are bad." 

" 1 like to hear that," said theMudir. 

" So do 1/' said each one of the assembled guests, taking the cue 
from the governor. 

Will England beour ally in the case of war?" asked the Cadi. 
" 1 do not know, but 1 hope so." 

Some one now entered and spoke a few words to the Mudir. Ihe 
latter left the room: he was followed by the rest oi the visitors, with 
the exception of the Armenian priest. 

" How do you like the Tuiks?" 1 asked. 

" Very well," replied the old man, at the same time blowing his 
nose in his dressing-gown, pocket-handkerchiefs being apparently 
unknown in this pari of Turkey. " Here," he added, " the popu- 
lation is half Armenian and half Turk, this makes a considerable 
difference. In other villages, where the Mohammedans outnumber 
the Christians, the latter sometimes suffer." 

" What do you mean by suffer? Are they tortured?" 

" No, never," replied the priest; " but if a Turk were to strike 
an Armenian, and the latter were to hit him back, all the Turks in 
the neighborhood would set upon the Chrisiian. Then, if the 
Christian should complain to the Mudir, the Turk would bring wit- 
nesses to say that the Armenian called him the grandson or great- 
grandson ol a dog. The Christian's word would not be taken as 
evidence. But things are much better than they used to be, and 
here we get on better with the Mussulmans." 

My English servant was very much excited that evening. At 
dinner-time he put down my plate with a bang on the table, and every 
now and then looked at Osman with an air of supreme contempt. 
" "What has happened?" lat last inquired. " Have you and Osman 
been fighting, or are you both in love with the sameVoman?" 

" No, sir; but that Hosman he ain't taken the pack-saddle off our 
horse's back since we left Scutari. Every night 1 tells him about 
it, and he takes no notice of me whatever. 1 expect that our 'oss 
has an awful back — a nasty unfeeling brute is Hosman, sir. How 
would he like a saddle on his own back night and day for fourteen 
clays?" 

" Well," t said, " go to the stable, take off the saddle, and tell me 
in the morning if the horse's back is sore or not." 

1 did not share the apprehensions of my English servant. The 
Turkish pack-saddle is admirably suited for a long journey. During 
previous expeditions in the East, I had seen some Tartars who kept 
their horses saddled for weeks and even months together, and all 
this withoul m any way injuring the animals. The two English 
riding-saddles which 1 had brought from Constantinople, had 
already proved a source of annoyance to me. Our steeds had lost a 
great deal of flesh, owing to the long and frequent marches, and the 
panels required fresh stuffing. The gray horse which 1 rode had 
been slightly rubbed. In consequence of this I had changed saddles 
with Osman, who was much lighter than myself. The Turkish 
saddle not having a panel, is better adapted for long marches. Un- 
fortunately, it is an uncomfortable one for the horseman; my own 



0~N HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 61 



experience being that the English saddle galls the steed, but the 
Turkish one the rider. 



CHAPTER XL 

" Well, how is the animal's back?" I inquired of Radford, when 
he awoke me the next morning. 
" 1 can't make it out, sir. I took the saddle oft, and our horse 
ain't touched at ail. Osman came in when I was a -looking at him. 
He laughed, and said ' Eyi ' (good), and 1 said ' Eyi ' too. "But, sir, 
it is a wonder to me that the horse ain't got an awful back." 

" How are you getting on with your Turkish?" I inquired. 

"Capital, sir; 1 often have a talk with Osman, though 1 can't 
say as how we understand each other much. The fellow, lie knows 
more about horses than 1 thought he did; one lives and learns, even 
fiom Turks." 

We were escorted out of Istanos* by the Mudir and his two sons, 
lads of from twelve to fifteen, who had got up at daybreak to speed 
the Irank on his way. The Armenian priest came to the door. In 
spite of the early hour, a great many inhabitants had assembled on 
the house-tops to have a look at the Englishman and his party. 

" Tliey like your nation." said the Mudir, as the people saluted us. 

*' Why sol" 

" They remember the Crimean war, and think that you have 
come to help us against the Russians." 

"I wish I had," was my answer; "but 1 am here only as a 
4 traveler.' " 

We retraced our steps along: the route of the previous day, march- 
ing for some time by the bank of the river. Presently 1 came to a 
well-built stone bridge. It spans the stream, which is here about 
forty yards wide, besides being very rapid and deep. Soon after- 
wards the path traversed a spacious plain, formerly the battle-field 
of Tamerlane. At one end of this plain, and on a hill, or rather a 
ridge of hills, is Angora. Its ruined battlements and lofty minarets 
stand out conspicuously. The town itself lies rather in the back- 
ground and on a slope. A Zaptieh met us as we were entering a 
narrow street, and said that a Turkish gentleman had sent him to 
escort me to his house. 

On we rode, through many-dirty lanes, until 1 finally entered a 
wide yard. This court was overlooked by a large and' handsome 
building. 

" Suieimar Effendi lives here," said the Zaptieh. 

The gentleman to whom he alluded now appeared descending; 
some stone steps which gave access to the court-vard. He ap- 
proached us, and aided me to dismount; then, taking my hand, he 
led me into a large room furnished with chairs, as well as with a 
divan, and carpeted with rich Persian rugs. Advancing to the 
place of honor, in the center of the divan, he asked me to be seated, 
and sat down by my side, several of his friends being accommodated 
on the floor. 

Suleiman Effendi was dressed in European fashion, with the ex- 



* For military importance of this district, see Appendix XIV, 



62 OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI2sOR. 



ception of his fez. He had a very fair knowledge of Arabic; I 
soon found that he was well posted in European politics. 

" I heard that an Englishman was on bis way to Angora," he 
said, " and determined that you should be my guest. We received 
the news abont you from lsmid." 

" Are there any other Englishmen here?" 1 inquired. 

" Only one— the vice-consul, a merchant: but J will send and let 
him know that you have arrived. In the meantime have a glass of 
1 raki." Poceedmg to the cabinet in the wall, Suleiman carefully 
unlocked it, and produced a decanter with some glasses. 

" Thanks, I do not drink spirits." 
. " No more do 1," replied Suleiman, laughing; " only medicin- 
ally, you know;" -and he drank off a bumper. 

In a few minutes the English vice-consul arrived. He was dressed 
in his official uniform, and was accompanied by a young Bulgarian, 
who was a merchant in the same business as himself. 

' ' Mr. was very surprised to see an Englishman in Angora, 

no one of our nation having visited that town for several years past; 
and he informed me that the telegram had just been received from 
Constantinople with reference to the proclamation of a Constitution. 
In consequence of this, the town of Angora was to be illuminated 
on the following evening; cannon would be fl/ed, and the Pasha 
would read the proclamation to the populace in the courtyard of the 
palace. 

" What does it — the Constitution — mean?" I inquired. 
" Mean?" replied the Bulgarian, who spoke English perfectly; 
it means a quantity of promises which the government will never 
fulfill." 

"It probably means a Parliament in Constantinople," said the 
consul; " but we have no particulars as yet." And, making an ap- 
pointment for me to call upon him in the morning, he left the room, 
accompanied by the Bulgarian. 

1 was very much surprised at this intelligence. A Parliament in 
Constantinople! How would the members be chosen? and who 
would choose them? It universal suffrage prevailed, only one in 
about every 300 of the electors would be able to read or write; all of 
them would be ignorant of everything beyond the interests of their 
immediate neighborhood. 

" Is a Parliament possible here?" 1 inquired of my host. 

"It is possible in theory, but impossible in practice," * was the 
r^ply. "We require more liberty, but this must be a question of 
time. We must educate the people, and teach both Christians 
and the Mohammedans that a difference of opinion on religious 
matters is not a subject about which men should quarrel. Religion 
has been the cause of more wars than anything else in historj*."' 

" 1 tell you what it is," he continued, " I believe that in another 
hundred years there will be either no religion at all, or else that 
every religion will be merged into one creed." 

" The Christian," 1 observed. 

" Who knows?" continued my host. " We live in strange times; 

* This is refuted by an Official Despatch recently received from H.M,'s Am- 
bassador at Constantinople, see Appendix J V. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOE. 



63 



even we Turks, the more particularly those who live in Constantino- 
ple, begin to argue about such matters. However there is one thing 
I cannot understand about you Christians— you appear to me to 
have so many ioads to heaven. For instance, in Anatolia there are 
American Protestant missionaries, Italian Catholic missionaries, and 
then there are the Armenians, who profess the Armenian faith." 
44 Well," 1 remarked, " what of it?" 

"Wait a moment," said my host. "An Armenian, who is of 
the Armenian faith, is half-way up his staircase to heaven. An 
American missionary calls after him, 4 Where are you going?' ' 1 
am going to heaven.' ' No, you. are not; that is not the road to 
heaven. You are going in the wrong direction. Come down imme- 
diately, and 1 will show you the way.' The Armenian descends the 
steps, and begins ascending the road the missionary points out to 
him. Presently another voice is heard. It comes from the mouth 
of an Italian missionary. ' Where are you going?' 4 1 am. going to 
heaven.' ' No, you are not; come down immediately. You are on 
the road to hell.' The result is," continued Suleiman, "that the 
poor Armenian does not know which way to turn. He is perpetu- 
ally going up or coming down the steps, and he never reaches his 
destination." 

" Stop," 1 said, 44 you Mohammedans are also split up into sects. 
There are the Sunniles and the Shiites, and you both hate each 
other." 

"Alas! it is too true," replied my companion, "but if we have 
two sects, you, according to what 1 have read, number at least a 
hundred, and the members of many of the sects think that every one 
else besides themselves must be damned. A very charitable doc- 
trine that, is it not?" he added. 

" Who was the Bulgarian with our vice-consul?" 1 inquired. 

" He is in business with the vice-consul, and, 1 am sorry to say, 
does not like us Turks." 

"Why?" 

44 Because his brother was one of the victims in the late Bulgarian 
rebellion. People in England blame us for the massacres," con- 
tinued Suleiman. " What could we do? Our regular troops were 
employed elsewhere. This was owing to the intrigues of Russia; 
we were obliged to employ Circassians. The Circassians hale the 
Russians, and indeed they have reason to hate them. Those whose 
own mothers and sisters have been ravished and butchered, cannot 
be expected to love their oppressors. The Circassians looked upon 
the Bulgarians as Russians, hence the bloodshed. A few days ago 
1 read an extract from an English paper, which had been translated 
into Turkish. It was to the effect that an English priest had seen 
people impaled by our Bashi Bazouks. Have you heard of this?" 

44 Yes, but the story has been contradicted." 

44 It is a pity when Christian priests or Mohammedan lmaums mix 
themselves up in politics," remarked another Turk; 44 their place is 
to calm men's passions, not to rouse them." 

They left me; my host having previously asked at what time X 
should like to dine, with the observation that his hour was mine. 
Three servants were also placed at my disposal, with orders to sup' 
ply ine with anything 1 might require. 



64 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



The following morning; 1 called upon the vice-consul, and found 
him at home with his wife— a delicate-looking lady, who had braved 
all the hardships of the' journey from Ism id in order to be at her 
husband's side. 

The house was furnished with every English comfort. It was 
difficult to believe that they were so many days from a railroad. 

" That piano cost us a great deal of trouble," said the vice-con- 
sul. " It was brought here in two parts, and on mules." 

" It is wonderful how it could have survived the journey," said 
the lady. Going to the instrument, she sounded the notes, which 
were very fairly in tune. "The Turkish ladies are so astonished 
with the piano," she continued. " They will sit for hours and listen 
to me playing." 

I now started with tbe consul to pay a visit to the Pasha. We ar- 
rived in a large courtyard, which was badly ^aved with loose stones. 
At one end there were some steps which led to the official residence. 
The courtyard was thronged with people who had been summoned 
to hear the telegram read about the new Constitution; men in uni- 
form, beggars, people with petitions m their hands all swearing and 
jostling each other, as my companion and myself with difficulty 
made our way up the stairs. We were at once admitted into the 
audience-room. 1 found the Pasha, a tall, good-looking man of 
middle age, engaged in placing his seal upon a number of docu- 
ments which an official was handing to him. He received Us court- 
eously, and proposed that we should accompany him to the court 
below, and listen to the proclamation of the Sultan's telegram. 

The Pasha then introduced me to his son, a young man about 
twenty; bespoke French fluently and without any perceptible ac- 
cent, having been educated by a French tutor. 

" We have only one cannon in Angora," he remarked, " and it is 
to be fired 101 times. We are a little afraid that it may not be able 
to stand the ordeal. " 

" Yes," said his father, " we have only one cannon, but we have 
sent 25,000 men -to the war. We do not require any cannons," he 
added. " Our own people are quiet enough. The Russians will 
not find it a very easy matter to reach Angora." 

We descended the steps; on reaching the courtyard, the clerk — a 
wonderful old gentleman in a green dressing-gown, and with a 
wheezy voice — called for silence. 

The Pasha then announced that the Sultan had been pleased to 
grant more liberties to his people, and that the present autocratic 
form of government was to be replaced by a Constitution. The 
imaum, or priest, here said " Amin," equivalent to our Amen; and 
the vice-consul put on his cap with a gilt peak, which he had taken 
off during the ceremony. 

The Pasha's son now invited me to visit his rooms, which were a 
suit of apartments separale from those occupied by his father. I 
found his book-shelves well stored with scientific French works, 
and, to my surprise, discovered that the young Bey was not only 
remarkably well educated for a Turk, but was much better informed 
than nine Englishmen out of ten who have been to a public school, 
and have taken their degrees at the university. 



025" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



05 



" Well, what do you think will be the result of the new Constitu- 
tion?" I inquired. 

"We are what you would call in England a very conservative 
nation. This sudden change has almost "taken away our breath. 
We have not yet received the document which contains all the 
clauses of the new constitution, and only know of them by tele- 
gram: if we are to attempt a form of government such as you have 
in England, in mv opinion we shall fail." 

" Why so?" 1 asked. 

" Because not only the electing class but the men who will proba- 
lly be chosen to sit in Parliament are only half educated. We shall 
have ignorant legislators for an equally ignorant nation. We want 
lime," he continued; "we require roads and railways. If there 
were means of communication, the people would travel and see that 
there is a good deal to be learned away from home, and eveD from 
you Christians. Give us roads and railways, they will be worth 
fifty constitutions, for the latter, in my opinion, will soon be found 
impracticable." 

" It will never be carried out," said the vice-consul, who was sit- 
ting next to him. " It has been drawn up merely as a sop for the 
plenipotentiaries at the Conference." 

" Well, whatever they do in other places," said the Bey, " we 
shall carry ft out in its integrity here." 

As he said these words the boom of the cannon resounded from 
below, tie windows of the room begun to rattle, the sound of a mob 
cheering, rapidly followed trie report. 

" A great deal of noise and a great deal of smoke; voila la Consti- 
tution," said the consul, and he prepared to leave the room. 

" Stop," said the Bey, " you must not walk, 1 will send my car- 
riage with you. It is almost the only carriage in Angora," he add- 
ed, " and 1 have a compatriot of yours as a coachman; he has been 
with me three years." 

CHAPTER Xll. 

The Pasha's carriage was a funny-looking old vehicle. It gave 
me the idea of a broken-down four-wheeler, which had been taken 
to pieces and converted into an Irish car. There were no springs. 
My bones were nearly dislocated as we drove down the main stieet 
to the consul's house". 

The coachman turned out to be not an Englishman, but an Irish- 
man. He had lost all signs of the native^diollery. Four years 
sgpnt in Turkey seemed to have taken the life out of him. He had 
been sent home to Ireland during the previous summer, 1o buy some 
carriage-horses for his master. On returning with bis purchases, a 
storm arose in the Bay of Biscay. The captain of the vessel had 
been obliged to order the crew to throw the horses overboard. 
This, and the absence of all female society, had weighed upon 
Paddy's mind. He only brightened up for one moment, when the 
consul, giving him a glass "of whisky, desired him to drink it in 
honor of Ould Ireland and of Christmas-day. For it was Christmas- 
day in Angora, and the consul's good wife was busily engaged in all 
the mysteries of the cmsine. 

s — 



66 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" You are going to dine with us, to-night?" said the hospitable 
gentleman. ''Kay, you must," he added. *' We -are to have a 
turkey stuffed with chestnuts, and my wife is busy leaching the 
Turkish servants how to make a plum-pudding. "You will also meet 
some ot the celebrities of Angora." 

At dinner one of the guests — it 1 remember right, an Armenian — 
did not seem to share the opinions which the Pasha had expressed 
that morning with reference to the quiet and good order in the city. 

It appeared, according to this person, that there is a vagabond 
society, a society ot thieves, in Angora, which preys upon Turks 
and Christians. The members of this society go at, night to different 
houses, and, knocking at the door, order the proprietors, under threat 
of assassination, to draw the bolts. The inhabitants, who are fright- 
ened to death, frequently open the door. The thieves, entering, eat 
what they find in the house, and afterward make the proprietor give 
them a sum of money. 

" Yes," remarked another guest, " the -worst of it is that several 
of the chief people in the town are said to be mixed up in this so- 
ciety." 

A great fiie had taken place in Sivrissa, a short time before. 
Damage had been done to the Christian inhabitants to the amount 
of thirty million piastres. The Turks did not willingly receive the 
Armenians into their houses, but when they did so, subsequently 
threw their mattresses out of the window, saying that they had been 
defiled by the contact of u giaour's body. This was mentioned to 
show the fanaticism ot the Turks. 

However, during my subsequent travels in Armenia, the impres- 
sion gradually dawned upon my mind that the Turks were, first of 
all, very wise not to wish to receive the Armenians into their houses; 
and, secondly, if they had been good-natured enough to do so, to 
destroy the mattresses after the departure of their guests. The 
Armenians in their habits of body are filthy to the last degree. Their 
houses and clothes are infested with vermin. The Turks, on the 
contrary, are much cleaner, and are most particular about the use of 
the bath. An Englishman would not be pleased if his house became 
filled with what it is not here necessary to mention. If he did 
under such circumstances admit strangers, he would probably destroy 
their bedding the moment that they departed. 

One of the visitors now remarked that there had been ten Pashas 
in four years in Angora, and that this frequent, removal of officials 
was one of the causes which had led to the decadence of the coun- 
try. 

"Yes," said another, " a Pasha never feels sure of his place. 
Another evil here is the delay in settling cases of litigation. The 
arrears are enormous, and although in November, 1875, a firman 
from the Sultan called attention to this niatter, and ordered all law 
cases to be settled at once, nothing has been done to carry the edict 
into execution. If when the authorities find that they have a good 
^man as a Pasha they would leave him for say ten years in office, we 
should advance much more rapidly than at present." 

1 next heard that Angora had not recovered from the effects of 
the famine which had devastated the neighborhood in 1873-74, the 
amount of taxes owing by the inhabitants to the government 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR, 



67 



amounting to more than a million and a hall Turkish pounds. The 
arrears of taxes owing previous to 1872 had been canceled, some 
being as much as ten, twelve, and twenty years due. Previous to 
canceling the arrears, the government had put up to auction the 
right ot collecting the entire sum; but, as many of the inhabitants 
had emigrated, no one ventured to tud. 

There were 18 ; 000 deaths in the neighborhood of the town during 
the famine, and 25,000 people died subsequently in consequence of 
its effects. The chief trade of the district is in goats' hair, 60 pei 
cent, of the goats, sheep, and cattle had perished. Children had been 
deserted and left in the streets; some instances of babies being eaten 
by their parents were brought to light. 

The following morning 1 received a visit from a relative of my 
host, Hadji Taifik Effendi. It is said that he will one day be the 
head of the Mussulman faith. 1 found this Mohammedan divine 
excessively bellicose in his ideas; he eagerly desired war. 

""Why so?" 1 inquired. 

" Because an open enemy is better than a poisoner in your house. 
Because war must come some day, and it is better to get rid ot a 
cancer by sacrificing a limb. Russian agents have been doing their 
best to sow discord amongst the inhabitants of our provinces; this 
they did during peace time and whilst a Russian embassador was at 
Constantinople." 

" Yes," said my host, "and an embassador who is himself a 
prime mover in the secret societies which are agitating Europe. The 
Russian government pretends to be alarmed at the secret societies, 
but it is the hot-bed of all the secret societies in the world.* You 
may depend upon it," he continued, " that the massacres which oc- 
curred in Bulgaria had been planned long before the outbreak. Our 
regular troops had been purposely sent to other parts of the empire. 
The Russian authorities were well aware of what was about to take 
place, and were delighted at the effect which it had upon Dublic 
opinion in England. One thing, however, 1 can not understand, and 
this is why 3 r our newspapers always published the accounts of the 
Bulgarian women and children who were slaughtered, and never 
went into any particulars about the Turkish women who were mas- 
sacred by the Bulgarians, or about our soldiers whose noses were cut 
off, and who were mutilated by the insurgents in the Herzegovina. 
A Turk values his nose quite as much as a Christian," he added. 

1 now learned that Hadji Taifik Effendi had five wives, but that 
Suleiman Effendi only possessed one. She was the widow of a rich 
inhabitant of the town, and one day seeing Suleiman pass her win- 
dows, was struck by his appearance. She sent an old woman as 
intermediary, to him. The marriage was arranged; the lady bring- 
ing all her late husband's fortune to her new spouse. 

The Turkish law about the distribution ot property after a man's 
death, is rather curious. If a man dies leaving a daughter, but if at 
the same time he has a brother, the daughter and his brother divide 
the property. Should he leave two daughters and a brother, each 
girl takes a quarter, his brother the half ; if he- has one son and a 



* This is authenticated to a great extent by an Official Dispatch. See 
penUix V, 



68 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



brother, the brother is left out altogether, and the son takes every- 
thing. 

That evening I received an invitation to dine with a Turkish gen- 
tleman. My host was one of the guests; we went together to the 
place of entertainment. There was a strange mixture of nationali- 
ties, comprising Turks, Armenians, an Italian doctor, a certain M. 
Gasparini, who had been tor some years in Angora, and was a great 
favorite with the inhabitants; Greeks, a Bulgarian, and our consul, 
who is a Scotchman. We passed through a court-yard which sur- 
rounded the house. It was illuminated with paper lanterns of 
various patterns. Presently 1 found myself in a room surrounded 
by divans. The guests were all assembled. In the center of the 
apartment was a table. On it were placed bottles of red and white 
wine of Armenian manufacture, raki, maslic, brandy, and liquors, 
whilst biscuits, nuts and filberts, with sardines, were ou little dishes 
interspersed amidst the decanters. My host, who was a stout and 
very dark man, pouring out a bumper, insisted upon all the com- 
pany joining him in his libations, then, turning to M. Gasparini, he 
complained about the state of his digestion. 

" Well, if you will drink so much," said the doctor, " you ought 
not to expect to feel well." 

" Spirits," said the fat Turk; "1 like spirits — they refresh my 
stomach, and I become cheerful. Send me some medicines," he 
added. 

" There is no good treating these Turks," said the doctor to me, 
in Italian. " They mix up everything together, wine, spirits, physic, 
etc., and then expect to get well. If they would only carry out 
their prophet's injunctions, and leave off drinking wine, they would 
enjoy much better health." 

" Did you ever hear the story of the prophet and the old woman 
in Mecca?" said one of the guests, who was listening to the con- 
versation. 

" No;- what is it?" 

tt Well," observed the visitor, " there is a tradition that one day 
an old woman came to the prophet and said, ' Oh! only true prophet 
of God, when 1 die, to which particular heaven shall I be sent?' 
The prophet, who was continually being bothered by similar ques- 
tions, and " (aside to the doctor) " whose digestion on that particu- 
lar occasion was very likely out of order, replied gruffly, ' Go away, 
go away! There are no old women in heaven.' Upon this the aged 
dame left the house crying. In a short time the prophet's domicile 
was surrounded by all the ancient females in Mecca. Their cries 
became so loud that, they attracted Mohammed's attention; he went 
out to them. 'Oh, holy Prophet! holy Prophet!' they cried. 
' Well, what do you want?' ' l 7 ou have said that there are no old 
women in heaven. Whatever shall we do!' The prophet was not 
in the least nonplussedfor an answer. 4 Quite true,' said Mohammed, 
' quite true, 1 said so. There are no old women in heaven; they all 
become young so soon as they arrive there!' " 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



69 



CHAPTER XIII. 

By this time the guests had consumed many cigarettes, smoked 
numerous N argil ens, and drank freely of the liquors. The host, 
rising, proposed that we should adjourn to the dining-room. Theie 
we found three musicians with instruments much resembling banjos. 

V We are to have some music," said the Bey, the Pasha's son, 
who was one. of the guests. "Iam afraid that it will not be much 
to your taste. Our melodies are very different to those which you 
are accustomed to hear in Europe." 

He was quite right; Turkish melodies are very different. There 
is a wildness and pathos about many of them which strikes the 
stranger accustomed to the more regular measure which distin- 
guishes European music. Now they resounded so plaintively that 
the guests involuntarily ceased talking. Another instant, the in- 
struments, bursting forth with a startling crash, half deafened us 
with the clamor. 

The performers swung their heads from side to side, and kept 
time with the quickening afar; the strains went faster and faster. 
The guests were inspired with the musicians' enthusiasm. All the 
heads began to swing, we Europeans involuntarily marking the 
time with our feet on the floor. The musicians panted with their 
exertions. Suddenly the melod}^ left oft abruptly, and one of the 
performers commenced a doleful dirge. This did not last Jong, and 
when he was in the most pathetic part, another crash from the 
orchestra interrupted him in the middle of the verse. 

" Turkish music is exactly like a Turkish dinner," observed one 
of the guests; 44 it is a series of surprises; the leader of the orchestra 
goes from andante to a lacing pace without any crescendo whatso- 
ever; the cook in the same manner— he first gives us a dish as sweet 
as honey and then astonishes our stomachs with a sauce as acid'as 
vinegar. Now we are eating fish, another instant blanc-mange. A 
vegetable is next placed before us, and our stomachs have scarcely 
recovered from their astonishment, when a sweet is served up with 
some savory pastry." 

The servants, who. were much more numerous than the guests, . 
vied with each other in serving the different dishes. Twenty at- 
tendant domestics were arranged in Indian file. So soon as the host 
made a sign to the leading domestic, each kind, of food was replaced 
by another, and number two servant was prepared with fresh viands, 
while number one, who had hurried to the kitchen, returned with 
another dish. 

The table was a raised one, chaiis were placed round it. This 
was done in honor of the European visitors. We all ate with our 
fingers, each man helping himself according to his rank or social 
position. It was not etiquette tor a Cadi to seize a piece of meat 
before the Bey put his fingers in the dish; a captain had to be care- 
ful not to offend the susceptibilities of a colonel. 

To eat blanc-mange a la Turque requires some practice; however, 



70 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



the consul and the Italian doctor had been for some time in the East, 
and used their fingers as readily as a knife and fork. 

At last our dinner was over. Fruit, mince-meat, dishes of vege- 
tables, sweets and raisins, salads and ci earns, concluding with a huge 
bowl of boiled rice, had been disposed of, the whole having been 
washed down by tumblers of red country wine very like Burgundy. 

" Praise be to God!" said our host, rising; his example was fol- 
lowed by the rest of the guests. 

A servant poured water over the hands of the visitors, beginning 
with each man according to his rank. We adjourned into another 
room. Here coffee, tcliibouks and nargilehs were handed round to 
the company. 

A servant now approached and said that Osman was waiting out- 
side, and wished to speak to me. 

" What is the matter?" I inquired. " Have you come to tell me 
how industrious you are, or do you want some more money?" I 
had previously observed that when Osman wished to speak to me, 
these two topics were almost invariably the subject of his conversa- 
tion. 

" No. Eff'endi, but the horse—" 
44 Which horse?" 
" The bav that makes a noise." 
" Well, what of him?" 

" He is lame. My brother has seen him. 1 have seen him. He 
will not be able to carry his pack to-morrow." 

V Hire two horses instead of one, and lead the roarer." 

" Yes, Effendi, that is what 1 have been trying to do;, but the 
people ask for many liras; their hearts are stony at the sight of our 
difficulties, they open wide their purses foi the Effendi's gold." 

*• Have } t ou been to the post?" 

" Yes, but the postmaster has ten horses, and only one man to 
look after them. The postmaster says if you lure two baggage 
animals that you must pay for ten." 

" Wait here, Osman," I said; returning to my host, 1 informed 
him of my difficulties. 

"Oh! the dog!" exclaimed the Bey. "He is trying to cheat 
you!" ; , ro 

Tearing a piece of paper from' an old letter in his pocket he 
wrote a note to the chief of police, desiring him to bring the post- 
. master immediately before us. 

"The postmaster is in bed," said Osman, who had entered the 
room. 

* "In bed or out of ,bed, he shall be brought here," said the young 
Bey; stamping the piece of paper with his seal, he gave it to a 
servant. Presently a noise "was heard. The postmaster arrived, 
followed by the chief of the police. 

" You. must give this English gentleman, twx> horses at once." 

" Yes, Bey Effendi." 

" But why did not you do so before?" 

" Because 1 did not know that it was the Bey's pleasure— the 
will of the son of our Pasha is my will. Upon my head be it; the 
horses shall come." 

" Good horses," I remarked, " stout and strong." 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI3TOR. 71 

" Have I not said so?" replied the man. and it was agreed that I 
•was to hire two horses as far as Yuzgat, paying the regular tariff of 
three piastres for each horse per hour. _ . " 

" People in Turkey who deal in horses are great rogues," said 
the Bey; " are they the same in your country A horse-dealer near 
Kars would try and get the best of his dearest friend in a bargain." 

" They are much the same in England," 1 replied ; and the young 
Bey began to tell us some stories oi horse-copers in Aleppo, where 
helbad'passed some years, and in which town the fair sex was more 
than usually frail. 

" The young men in that city ha^e a curious way of showing 
their affection to the lady of their choice," continued tha speaker. 
■ ' A girl has, say, three lovers — a small allowance for a lady in that 
part of the world— she does not know which to select, each one of 
the suitors is eager to display his gallantry." 

" What does she do?" asked one of the party. "Accept them 
all?" 

" Xo, she takes three bits of live charcoal from out of the fire; 
giving euch ot her lovers a piece, she tells them to place it in the 
palms ol their hands. The fire burns through tne skin, the tendons 
are laid bare; sometimes the amorous gentlemen will resist till the 
flesh has been burned to the bone. Here one or two ot them gen- 
eral lv succumb to the torture; the man who resists the longest wins 
the lady." 

" But if they are all equally indifferent to pain, and the charcoal 
burns out, what happens then?" I inquired. 

• 4 The lady takes three more pieces of charcoal, and begins again 
with the other hand," replied, the Bey. " The more they resist the 
better the girl likes them, because it is a proof to her mind that they 
value her more than their own torture." 

" Did you ever try it?" 

" Xo," said the Bey, laughing. " 1 can get a wife without any 
trouble, so I do not care about burning my fingers. We burn our 
fingers quite soon enough after marriage as" it is7" 

" Yes," said the doctor, and he began to give me a long account 
of the domestic lite in some ot the harems in Angora. 

According to the doctor's experiences there was a great deal of 
immorality amid the lair sex in the city, although nothing to what 
existed in Yurgat, another town which 1 should pass by on the way 
to Kars. In Angora, although the women are very unfaithful to 
their husbands, yet everything is kept more or less "concealed. In 
Yurgat it was very different, and there you could actually see the 
dance of the Turkish gypsy women, although in Angora it was 
strictly prohibited. , 

31. Gasparini was doing a large practice. He had been established 
for ten years in Angora and its neighborhood. From his position 
as a medical man he had the opportunity of knowing more about 
the domestic life of the inhabitants than the other European resi- 
dents. 

" Well, although the women may be immoral, the men are very 
hospitable," said the consul. " Wherever a stranger may go he is 
always received with the greatest hospitality. A few years ago a 
friend of mine, Mr. Thompson, was traveling from the Black Sea 



72 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



to Angora. He arrived at a village. The khan was full, every 
room was occupied. However, he was an old traveler, and could 
easily accommodate himself to circumstances. Taking bis cloak, 
he lay down in the yard and prepared to pass the night in the open 
air. Presently he was awakened by a tap on the shoulder. On 
looking up he found an old Turk bending over trim. 

" Why are you sleeping here?" inquired the Mohammedan. 

' ' Because there is no room in the khan. ' ' 

" This is not right. A stranger, and outside the gate. Come 
with me." 

Taking Mr. Thompson by the hand the Turk led him to his house, 
gave him a clean bed and his breakfast, waited himself upon his 
guest, and would not receive any remuneration. 

'* Now," added the consul, " the Turk was a Mohammedan, and 
Mr. Thompson a Christian; if the Turk had been in England, and 
had found himself placed in a similar predicament to Mr. Thomp- 
son, do you think that there are many Englishmen who would have 
behaved so generously to an utter stranger?" 

The following day I called upon some Armenian gentlemen, and 
found their houses furnished like my host's, with thick carpets, 
divans, and pipes, the walls being bare and whitewashed. Pictures 
and looking-glasses were seldom to be seen, the latter being a very 
costly luxury, owing to the difficulty of carriage. 

The Armenians dressed in a similar manner to the Turks. The 
Christian women were closely veiled whenever they left the house. 
In many instances an Armenian was not permitted to see his wife* 
before marriage, and had to take her, as the Yankees say, " on 
spec." 

Great harmony existed between the Turks and Christians. "When- 
ever 1 dined with an Armenian there were always Mohammedans 
present. When I visited a Turk's house, 1 generally found Ar- 
menians among the visitors. On inquiring whether this state of 
things prevailed elsewhere 1 was informed by the Armenians that 
in other parts of Anatolia, and more particularly in Sivas, the 
Christians were ill treated by the Turks, and that the prisons were 
filled with Armenians. 

During my stay at lsmid 1 had heard precisely the same story of 
the sufferings of the Christians at Angora. 1 had been told that 
the Armenians were cruelly oppressed, and that justice was never 
shown to them. However, in Angora the two religions did not 
seem to clash. The Mohammedans and Christians were on the 
best of terms. I began to be a little skeptical as to the truth of the 
statement about Sivas, and determined not to form any opinion on 
the matter from mere hearsay evidence, Igut to see with my own 
eyes if the prisons were so full of Christians as the Armenians in 
Angora would have me believe. 

Later on in the day Radford suggested that it would be as well 
for me to sell the lame horse and "buy another; he was doubtful 
whether, even without his pack, the animal would be able to march 
to Yuzgat. The poor beast was very lame, the frog of his foot was 

* The Armenian women have more liberty in Angora than in many other 
towns in Asia Minor. ^» 



01ST HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



73 



much swollen. Whilst we were talking a Turkish veterinary sur- 
geon arrived; taking out his knife, he made a slight incision in the 
swollen place. 

" Meantime, several horse-dealers, learning that 1 wanted to buy 
a horse, brought, me some animals for inspection, at the same time 
offering me the liberal price of £2 sterling for my own animal. 

" Well," said one man, extracting some silver from what ap- 
peared to be an old stocking, " I will give twelve mejidis." 

" Your heart is very hard, brother, soften it a little," said Osman.j 
" Our horse shall not go for less than forty silver pieces. You love 
your money, but we love our horse still more." 

Nobodj r would give this sum, and, as I thought that possibly the 
operation performed by the Turkish veterinary surgeon might bene- 
fit the animal, 1 determined to wait another day in Angora. This 
would also give me an opportunity of inspecting more closely, the 
old Augustin monument, one of the curiosities in the town. 

To my great delight the operation proved successful; in the even- 
ing the horse could walk without much pain. He 'would be able to 
march on the following morning, and so 1 gave orders for an early 
start. Just before leaving, a servant arrived from the Pasha's pal- 
ace. The young Bey, who had observed that 1 much admired a 
work entitled the "History of the Ottoman Empire," and which 
was in his library, had sent it to me as a present, and hoped that 1 
would do him the honor of accepting the book as a memento of my 
visit to Angora. There were about ten volumes, the weight would 
have been at least twenty pounds, and a considerable addition to the 
baggage. Much to my regret, 1 was obliged to decline the kind 
offer. The hospitality of the Turkish nation is proverbial. The 
geneiosity of the Turks is equally great. In fact, they carry this 
virtue to excess. Sometimes; after having admired a horse, 1 have 
been surprised to find that the steed has been sent to my stable, with a 
note fiom the owner, entreating my acceptance of the animal. 

3: often experienced great difficulty in finding excuses for not, ac- 
cepting the presents so generously offered to me by my entertainers, 
"lean not take any more luggage,"! would say, if the presents 
were at all cumbersome. However, if it were a horse, 1 could only 
decline the gift, and say that 1 had not sufficient servants to look 
after the animals. 

" But 1 have plenty of servants, take one of mine; he will accom- 
pany you throughout your journey » and then will return to me," 
would be the answer. 

People in this country who abuse the Turkish nation, and accuse 
them of every vice under the sun, would do well to leave off writ- 
ing pamphlets and travel a little in Anatolia. There is an old saying 
that " the devil is not so black as he is painted," and in many 
things, writers who call themselves Christians might well take a 
lesson from the Turks in Asia Minor. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
My host was up at daybreak to see me off. 
" Come and see me in England," 1 said. 

'.1f Allah pleases 1 will," was my friend's repty, and 1 only 



74 OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MItfOR. 

hope that 1 may have the opportunity of returning Suleiman 

EfFendi's hospitality. 

The road was hard and good for a few miles; we rode ior some 
time by the Ayash River. • 

After marching for about five hours, we came to a small farm- 
house. It was on the opposite bank of the river to ourselves; but 
there was a ford, and as there was no wood on our side of the stream, 
1 determined to cross and halt an hour for lunch. The house be- 
longed to an xlrmenian. It was filthily dirty. Vermin could be seen 
crawling in all directions on the rugs. In consequence of this, 1 re- 
solved to make our fire outside, and lunch in the open air. There 
were some turkeys in the farm-yard, and the proprietor coming up, 
1 desired Osman to purchase one of the birds. 

" The Effendi wants a turkey," said Osman to the farmer. 

This announcement at once created a great commotion among the 
female portion of the Armenian household— the turkeys being looked 
upon by the women in the establishment as their own particular 
property. 

" What for?" said an elderly dame, whose face was bound up in 
what appeared to be a dishcloth. 
"To eat." 

" Have you any money?" asked the woman, suspiciously. 

"Money!" said Osman, indignantly; "much money. We can 
afford to eat turkey every day! Now, then, how much for this 
one?" pointing to an old bird, apparently the paterfamilias of the 
brood. 

' ' Osman is an ass, sir, ' ' here interfered Radford. ! ' That is a very 
old cock. Osman has his eye on him because he is the biggest; he 
thinks that we can chew leather, that he do." And pursuing the 
brood, my English servant succeeded in catching a young pullet, 
which he brought triumphantly to the woman. 

" How much?" 1 inquired. 

" Twelve piastres " (about eighteen pence), replied the woman. 

" Twelve piastres," said Osman: " and it is a great deal of money 
— we could not afford to eat turkey at that rate; say ten, and have 
done with it." 

" The bird is a hen, and will have eggs," observed the farmer. 

" She may die and have no eggs, and then you would have lost 
ten piastres," said Osman. "Come, be quick," he added; "pick 
the tuikey!" And giving the woman the money, the old dame re- 
tired to a little distance to prepare the bird for the pot. 

When Radford had finished his cooking, and had helped me to 
some of the turkey, he put the remainder in my washing- basin, and 
handed it to Osman, for himself, and the man with the pack-horses. 

" Why do you not give them the cooking-pot, and let them eat 
out of it?" 1 inquired. " Perhaps they will not like eating out of 
my washing-basin." 

" 1 thought of that, sir; but the pot is that hot that they would 
bum their fingers a-shoving them into it. Nast}' dirty fellows they 
are, too; preferring dirty fingers to nice clean forks! But Osman, 
sir, he ain't that nice. He is the greediest feeder I ever see; he would 
eat out of a coal-scuttle sooner than not fill himself. See there, sir, 
he has got that turkey's leg. 1 knew he would have it! It was on 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



75 



the baggage man's side of the basin, and Osman had eaten already 
one drumstick;; the other ought to have gone to the chap with the 
horses. But Osman ain't .got. no conscience about eating, whatever 
he may have when he is flopping himselt down on my coat and pre- 
tending to say his prayers." 

After luncheon the two Turks were so long in loading the pack- 
horses that I determined to ride forward with Radford, and let the 
other men follow with the luggage. We bad continued the journey 
for about an hour when, after ascending a hill, I turned round to 
see if there were any signs of my followers. Nothing was in sight 
except an Armenian woman, who was on horseback ; she was riding 
cross-Jegged, and carried a baby in a handkerchief, which was slung 
fiom her neck. 

" Had she seen Osman?" 1 inquired. 

ff No," was the answer. 

Desiring Radford to remain where he was, 1 galloped back in the 
direction of the farm-house. On arriving by the river-side a singu- 
lar picture met my gaze. A pack-horse was dripping from head to 
foot, and was without his saddle. All the baggage was wet through. 
My cartridges, tea, sugar, and coffee were spoiled; Radford's bag, 
containing his pig tobacco, lay dripping wet by the side of the river. 
Osman was swearing violently at the man in charge of the pack- 
horses, and from time to time ras administering to him a blow with 
a stick across the shoulders. The chastised individual was sobbing 
violently. On seeing me he threw himself down on the ground and 
began to embrace my knees. 

" What has happened?" I inquired. 

They both commenced speaking together. 
Stop! One at a time," I remarked. 

" Yes, you dog!" said Osman to his fellow-countryman. " How 
dare you speak! He did not lead the horse, Efiendi, he drove the 
animal before him, and the horse lay down in the river. Everything 
is spoiled! Oh! you refuse of a deceased sheep " — this to the cul- 
prit. " And the Effendi's cartridges, he will not be able to replace 
them; and my brother, what will he say about his tobacco? he will 
be angTy — he may beat me! 1 knew your mother, your grand- 
mother, and great -grandmother— they were all most improper charac- 
ters—and you, you hound, you are the worst, of the family!" As he 
said these words, Osman began to flog the delinquent most unmerci- 
fully. 

1 was obliged to interfere; taking my servant by the collar, I or- 
dered him to desist, and at once to load the baggage animal. 

This accident delayed us considerably on the road. Some time 
after sunset, on looking at my watch, 1 found that we had only 
placed an eight hours' march between ourselves and Angora. We 
were on a large plain, which was surrounded by hills; our path 
wound round the slopes of the adjacent height; presently the village 
of Asra Yuzgat appeared in sight'. It is built on the side of the hill. 
We were soon riding on the tops of the houses, and had to be very 
careful lest our horses should suddenly come upon an open chimney. 
Some of the roofs had fallen in. The moon shining on the white 
rafters gave a ghastly appearance to the scene. 

The people in this part of Anatolia have a very economical way of 



76 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA Mil? OR. 



building their habitations. The man who is old enough to take unto 
himself a helpmate, and who is about to leave his father's roof, 
marks a piece of ground, generally of an oblong shape and on the 
side of a nil!. He next digs out the earth to the depth of about 
seven feet. Theu, hewing down some trees, he cuts six posts, each 
about ten feet high, and drives them three feet into the ground, 
three posts being on one side of the oblong and three on the other. 
Cross-beams are fastened to the tops of these uprights, and branches 
of trees plastered down with clay cover all. A few planks, with a 
hole made in them to serve as a doorway, inclose the outer side of 
the building, and a broad, heavy plank closes the entrance, hinges 
being replaced by strips of cowhide. A wooden railing divides the 
room into two parts; one of them is tenanted by the sheep, oxen, 
camels, and cows of the proprietor, the other by himself and fam- 
ily. No partition- wall separates the cattle from their master ; and the 
smell which arises at night from the confined air and from the am- 
monia in the building is excessively disagreeable to a European. In 
cold weather a hole in the roof, which serves as a ventilator, is 
stopped by a large stone. Fuel, often made from cows' dung, 
first dried and then mixed with chopped straw, is thrown on the 
fire. The inmates, sometimes consisting of twelve or more people, 
lie huddled together on the floor. This" last in the poorer houses is 
covered by rugs made of camel's hair, and in the wealthier establish- 
ments bv thick Persian carpets. 

The barking of the dogs, which swarmed around us, speedily 
awoke the inhabitants, and a middle-aged Turk, clad in a thick, 
brown mantle, approaching me, said that he was the Caimacan or 
governor, and that ne hoped I would stay at his house that night. 

It appeared that my friend the Bey at Angora had written to him 
about my journey, and had said that 1 should reach Asia Yuzgat at 
sunset. The Caimacan knew, nothing of our accident on the road; 
as we had not arrived by one* hour after nightfall, he had gone to 
bed. 

His house was not a large one. It consisted of two rooms, a 
kitchen and a reception-room. The latter apartment was used for 
all purposes. The owner remarked that he was going on a shooting 
expedition the following morning; he proposed that 1 should join 
the party. There were, according to him, a great many partridges 
and hares in the neighborhood. However, my cartridges had been 
probably all of them spoiled in the river, so 1 was obliged to decline 
the invitation. 

I was rather tired, and wished to go to bed. On expressing a wish 
to this effect, a mattress was produced, and put down in one corner, 
and a second the other side of the room for the Caimacan. Three 
or four servants were present. No one seemed to have any intention 
to retire. I took off my clothes, lay down on the mattress, and drew 
over myself a marvelous thing in the way ot yorgans, a silk counter- 
pane of as many colors as Joseph's coat, and lined with feathers. 

'* Are you warm?" said the Caimacan. 

"Yes."" 

M Every one is warm with that y organ," he continued. "It is 
light, and there are no fleas in it. You will sleep well." 
He now prepared to go to bed. The four servants assisted him. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOE. 7t 



First they drew off his boots, and then his nether garments; the 
Cairaacan glancing from time to time at me out of the corner of his 
eye, probably wishing to see what impression Ihe fact of his having 
four servants to put hirn to bed had produced on my mind. He had 
been astonished when 1 undressed myself, and had remarked: 

" Why, you have two servants, and you takeoff your own clothes! 
What is the good of having servants if you do not make them use- 
ful?" 

By tills time he was in bed. His attendants lay down by his side ; 
Radford and Osman in another corner. The one tallow dip which 
lighted the room was carefully extinguished; soon naught could be 
heard save the snoring of the slumberers. 

I arose at daybreak, and unpacked the wet cartridges, then, taking 
my gun, 1 tried some of them; snap — snap— they would not explode. 
It was not use stopping for the shooting- party ; so desiring Osman 
to commence loading the horses, 1 took leave of my host. 



CHAPTER XV. 

We rode across a low ridge of mountains, rocks which looked 
like iron ore lying about in all directions, and presently arrived at 
the Kizil Ermak, a broad and rapid stream, which runs into the % 
Black Sea, about fifty miles S. E. ot Sinope. The distance across 
the river was at least one hundred yards, the left bank being very 
precipitous. The depth of the water, owing to the recent rains, was 
not less than seven feet. There is no bridge in the neighborhood, 
the nearest being twenty-four miles higher up the river; 1 was curi- 
ous to learn how we should reach the other shore. The guide soon 
solved the problem. Riding about half a mile along the bank, he 
put two fingers in his mouth, and whistled. In a tew minutes the 
sound was answered from the opposite side of the river. Six men 
appeared in sight. Descending the bank, they dragged a triangu- 
lar-shaped barge from some rushes, and getting into it, began to pull 
with all their might in oui direction. The current was very swift; 
the starting point was nearly half a mile beyond us; but, notwith- 
standing this, the oarsmen overshot their mark. We had to lead 
our horses some little distance before we reached the boat. 

It was a queer sort of a craft, certainly not more than twenty-five 
feet long, and about sixteen in its widest part. Its sides were tw T o 
feet above the water; the men could not approach the bank nearer 
than twenty yards. The bottom was muddy. Our horses would 
have to walk through the mud to the boat, and then jump over the 
bulwarks. 

There were altogether eight horses, my own four, three belonging 
to the post, and the animal the guide rode, a brute which kicked, 
and already had slightly lamed my gray. 

'' I shall be drowned," said Osman, plaintively, " 1 know I shall! 
Can my brother swim?" pointing to Radford. " . 

" What does he say, sir?" inquired my English servant 

"He wants to know if you can save him if he falls into the 
water." 

" Save him? no, sir. Fcan not swim a stroke. 1 wonder what 



78 



02* HORSEBACK THROUGH^ASIA 3II2nOR. 



our engineers at Aldershot would say if they had to get us over in 
such a craft as this? It is wuss than a pontoon!" 

The boatmen wanted to take four horses across at a time ; a veto 
was put upon this proposal on account of the guide's horse; it was 
determined that he should go alone. Taking the saddle oft my own 
animal, 1 led him into the water; on reaching the boat I climbed 
into it, and tried to make the horse follow. This was by no means 
an easy task, he had sunk at least a foot into the mud, and evidently 
did not fancy the leap into the bark. Three of the boatmen now 
got into the river. One of them, seizing my horse's tail, twisted it 
violently, the others poked him from behind with I Heir oars. Osman 
all this time was expostulating with the animal from the bank. 

" Dear hoise, jump in! You shall have as much barley as you 
can eat this evening." 

This argument not having any effect upon the horse, Osman's 
language waxed stronger, and he heaped numerous curses upon the 
animal's ancestry. 

"Drat you!" said Radford at last; "you are always a-tal'dug 
when there is something to do. Go and help, can't you?" Suiting 
the action to the word, ne gave a push lo the noisy Turk, which 
nearly upset him into the water. 

At length, and by the exertions of all our party, my horse was 
persuaded to make an effort. Rearing himself up, he placed his two 
forefeet in the boat. A chorus of oaths and ejaculations — the hind 
legs followed. Once safely in, 1 bandaged his eyes. The other 
horses, seeing that one of their number were embarked, followed 
without much difficulty. 

We floated down the stream for some distance, and at a great 
speed, before the boatmen could get any command over their craft, 
which whirled round as if in a whirlpool. Fortuuately the horses 
were all blindfolded, and could not see the water, .At last we reached 
the opposite bank, having descended the stream for more than a 
mile from our starting-point. So much time was lost in getting the 
other horses over, that night was upon us befoie 'we reachecT our 
destination, YaKshagan, a large village with two hundred bouses, 
It was only fourteen miles from Asra Yuzgat, though, owing to the 
river, we had employed from sunrise to sunset in the journey. 

At Yakshagan it was necessary to hire fresh post-horses. The 
official at the station was very uncivil, and declared that he would 
not supply me with any unless 1 paid for three horses from Angora. 
I had only engaged two; however, the man with them had chosen 
to bring 'a third animal, instead of riding on one of the baggage 
horses. At last the difficulty was settled by the guide, who was 
known to the postmaster, saying that he would be responsible for 
the amount; whilst 1 agreed to refer the matter to the authorities at 
Yuzgat, and abide by their decision. 

1 started rather late, in consequence of the altercation. After a 
five hours' ride along a good road and through a beautiful country, 
we arrived at Madeh. Here there are several silver mines, which 
till very lately have been woiked by the Turks. I was informed 
that water has recently found its way into the pits. In consequent?- 
of this the miners have abandoned them. 

" It is a great pity," said an old Turk, arf inhabitant of the v$ bi r 



OX HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MISTOR. 



79 



'* With proper machinery it would be easy to pump out the water, 
and these mines abound in silver. We have cot nothing but paper 
money in Anatolia," he added, sorrowfully; "all this rich metal 
lies buried beneath our feet." 

It surprises a traveler to find xhat the Turks make so little use of 
their mines. In the course of my ride from Angora 1 had passed 
through a country apparently abounding in iron, and with many 
traces of coal. At'Madeh there is silver, whilst copper is also found 
in the immediate neighborhood. With intelligent engineers to ex- 
plore the mineral wealth of Anatolia, Turkey would be able not only 
to paj r the interest of her debt, but would speedily become one of the 
richest countries in the world. 

From Madehwe continued the march to Kowakoli. The country 
on each side of the road is covered with vines. The grapes in this 
part of Turkey are very large. The inhabitants preserve the fruit 
throughout the winter by hanging; it up in cellars. The atmosphere 
is dry : unless the temperature fails much below zero, and the grapes 
freeze, the y can be kept till the early spring. There is no wine 
made in the neighborhood. The Armenians, who in other parts of 
Anatolia make large sums of money by distilling spirits, here neglect 
this branch of industry. The grapes are either eaten, or the unfer- 
mented juice is kept to sweeten pastry, tor sugar is very dear, and 
costs more than a shilling the pound. The price is beyond the means 
of not only the poorer, but even of the wealthier inhabitants of the 
district. In consequence of this they drink their coffee without 
sweetening it, and look upon a present of a few pounds of sugar as 
a donation worthy of a Sultan's generosity. 

1 was hospitably entertained by an old farmer. H^e bewailed the 
disasters caused by the Angora famine, which had been felt through- 
out all this district. The road from Angora had been blocked by 
snow for three months and a half. His cattle all died from starva- 
tion, his goats had also perished. The latt Sultan, Abdul Aziz, had 
sent large sums of money and food to the suffering people; but the 
roads were impassible, and the provisions could not reach their 
destination. Many poor people had died of hunger with cart loads 
of corn and barley only a few miles from their doors. 

My host had one son, a lad about sixteen years of age. The boy 
regretted that he was not old enough to join the Sultan's forces. 

" Your time will come soon enough," observed his parent. 

" He does not know what war is like," added the farmer, sorrow- 
fully. " A great many men have gone to Servia from this neigh- 
borhood, and several have been killed. God grant, if my boy should 
have to go, that he may return to his old father." 

*f Is there much enthusiasm here for the wai ?" 1 inquired. 

" Immense," replied the farmer; " people feel that it isaquestion 
not only of religion but also of property. We landlords should not 
like to have Russian assessors grinding us down to the last piastre. 
We do not wish to be tortured lo change our religion, and we do not 
want to be made soldiers against our will." 

" But you are all soldiers now," I remarked. 

" Yes, because it is the time of war, and it is a struggle for our 
very existence. When the fighting is over, our young men will re- 
turn to their homesteads, and gladden their families once more." 



80 02* HOESEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MIIs T OR. 



" Do you think that you shall be able to withstand your foe?" 

" Allah is always on the side of justice, and He will give us the 
victory," rejoined the old man proudly. " Our land shall drink our 
blood ere we give up one foot of soil to the invader. " 

We now rode toward Sekili, a village about twenty-seven miles 
from the sleeping-quarters. 

Presently my gray horse besran to walk lame. He had been kicked 
by the guide's animal on the previous day. My weight was too 
much for the poor little brute. I resolved to change horses with 
Osman, who was much lighter than mvself. Calling the Turk to 
my side, 1 desired him to dismount, and then mounted the ambling- 
steed. The pace of a Tiahvan, or ambling horse, is an easy one for 
the rider; and the animal can get over the ground at the rate of 
about five miles an hour; the ordinary walk of the small Turkish 
horses being not much above three. 

We passed by some hovels. Their walls were built of marble; the 
roofs were made of beams covered with mud; the pure white rock 
presenting a striking contrast to its filthy surroundings. Marble 
abounds in this neighborhood. Large blocks were lying on all sides 
of us, and along our path. Some in the vicinity showed that hun- 
dreds of } T ears ago the inhabitants of this part of Anatolia were able 
to utilize their quarries. 

Poor Turkey, she has descended the steps of civilization, and not 
ascended them like European nations. 

However, though mud hovels have replaced the marble palaces of 
the Turks' ancestors, the Turks themselves remain unchanged. 
Hospitality — their great virtue— is as rife in 1877 as in the days of 
Mohammed II. No matter where an Englishman may ask for 
shelter, he will never find a Mohammedan who will deny him ad- 
mittance. 

We left behind us some mountains of slate, and rode over rich 
soil, which had been left fallow for miles around. 

"There are not inhabitants enough to cultivate the land," was 
the guide's answer to a question from me about the subject. 
* He was doubtless right. Asia Minor, like Spain, needs a three- 
fold population to develop Uer natural wealth. Let foreign settlers 
go to Anatolia. Let them make railways throughout the country, 
it could supply the whole of Great Britain with corn, and the mines 
of coal and of other minerals would prove a source of immense 
wealth to the inhabitants. 

Later in the da5 r we passed a Kurdish encampment. The Kurds 
all lived in circular, black tents, and some women, with unveiled 
faces, rushed outside the dwellings to see the strangers pass. 

The Turkish authorities have great difficulty in collecting the 
taxes from this nomad race. Whenever the Kurds expect a visit 
from the tax-collector, they pack up their chattels and migrate to the 
mountains. Here they can place the Turkish officer at defiance, and 
only return to the plains when their spies have announced the en- 
emy's departure. A few years ago the wealth of the Kurdish sheiks 
was very considerable; many of them owned 1 went3 and even thirty 
thousand sheep, besides large droves of hoises, and numerous herds 
of cattle. The famine, however, which devastated the province, was 



02S~ HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MUSTOR. 



SI 



as disastrous for the Kurds as for the Turks. It has left them in a 
wretched state of poverty. 

The Delidsche Errnak, a tributary of the Kizir Errnak, crossed 
our path. There was no bridge, and we had some difficulty in find- 
ing a ford. At last the marks of some horses' hoofs showed our 
guide the exact spot; riding imo the stream— here about fifty yards 
wide — and with the water up to his horse's girths, he piloted us over 
in safety. The bottom of the river is firm. 1 was informed that 
the stream becomes very shallow during the summer months; the 
inhabitants can then cross it with their ox-carts. 

The village of Sekili is made up of twenty mud hovels. Our ac- 
commodation for the night was not of a luxurious kind. But after a 
long and thing march a man speedily reconciles himself to circum- 
stances. A fire was lit. Two old hens were stewing in the pot. A 
kettleful of tea simmered ou the fire; and with a pipe after dinner, 
things looked a little brighter than at first. We next traversed a 
district abounding with salt. The soil sparkled in the sun. The 
crystal substance was visible for a considerable distance. Presently 
some Turcoman girls, with high, picturesque head-dresses, rode by 
us at a gallop; their merry laughter rang in the air as they passed, 
boon afterward we came to their village, the habitations being noth- 
ing more or less than a few holes in the side of a hill. The Turco- 
mans pronounce Turkish rather differently to the Turks. At first I 
had some little difficulty in making myself understood. Indeed, a 
man must be a polyglot to know all the languages spoken in Ana- 
tolia. Armenian, Greek, Circassian, Kurdish, Tartar, fersian, 
Georgian, and Arabic, besides Turkish, are heard within a radius of 
one hundred miles. The different sounds in these languages are 
very puzzling to a stranger who is trying to perfect himself in Turk- 
ish. 

Some Turcomans, dressed in white tunics, broad red trousers, and 
with gray sashes round their waists, were sitting idly at the entrance 
to their burro vs. A woman, in a crimson dressing-gown, and a 
few girls, with naught on save long white shifts, and caps, were 
busily engaged in drawing water from a neighboring well. Some 
goats, which had descended the hill, were feeding on the roofs of 
the houses. 

We entered one of the dwellings, but so many fleas were hopping 
about that 1 determined to eat my lunch in the open air. The pro- 
prietor of the hovel was very much surprised at our preferring the 
cold outside to the shelter of his domicile. 

".My EfTendi does not like fleas," said Osman. 

" There are not many here. " said the proprietor. *' It does not do 
to be particular. In" Sekili," he continued, "fleas abound, the 
Effendi ought to be accustomed to them by this time." 

" What does he say, sir?" asked Radford, as Osman gradually 
explained the Turcoman's remarks to me. 

" Say! He says that you ought to be accustomed to fleas by this 
time." 

" Accustomed, sir? No, but they are getting accustomed to me. 
HaMershot is a joke to this here Turkey so far as fleas are con- 
cerned. " 

Presently my servaut continued: 



82 OH HOESEBACK THROUGH ASIA^MINOR. 



" These Turks, sir, ain't got no decent tobacco; why a pipeful of 
eavendish or good bird's hi, is worth all the hay they smoke. No 
wonder people in England abuse the Turks— and quite right, too. 
Men who might grow shag tobacco, and prefer growing hay tobacco, 
can't be of much account. " 



CHAPTER XVI. 

On the track once more; ana" now we oame to a large stone, in 
the middle of the path. This marked the resting-place of a victim 
to the recent famine. The poor fellow had fallen down from ex- 
haustion, and had died on the spot. It was too much trouble for 
the survivors to move his corpse, they had made a hole and buried 
him where he lay. 

My gray horse, which Osman was riding, still went very lame: so 
1 limited our march to six hours, and stopped at the little village of 
Daili. Here there were only fifteen houses. Many camels and 
herds of cattle were grazing in the neighborhood, and the ground 
appeared to have been cultivated for a considerable distance. On 
this occasion the fortune of travelers gave us better quarters. The 
house in which we were lodged was clean. A raised dais of wood 
was set apart for the servants. Mattresses with cushions were re- 
served for the proprietor and his guests. 

There were some Turcomans in the village', and when the news 
was spread that an Englishman had arrived, several of them came to 
see me. 

" We are so glad to see an Englishman," said an old man, the 
spokesman f 01 their party. 
Osman now interrupted him. 

" Effendi, they want to tell you that they hate the Muscovites, 
and that they hope England will not allow the Tzar's soldiers to 
massacre them like they (the Russians) massacred the Teke Turco- 
mans." 

" Were many women and children belonging to the Teke Turco- 
mans killed by the Russians?" 
The old man shook his head. 

"Many! many!" he replied. "The women were violated by 
the soldiers. The little boys and girls were abused and then mur- 
dered. The men took pleasure in these awful crimes. The Mus- 
covite is a beast! He is worse than a hyena; the hyena sucks the 
blood of his victim, but the Russian satisfies his lust first, and then 
tears to pieces the object of his pleasure." 

41 We hear," he continued, " you have as Padishah, a lady. What 
does she think of this way of treating the Turcoman's little ones?* 

" And what do you think yourself?" he added. " Should not 
you like to cut the throats of all the Russians?" 

This was rather a strong way of dealing with the question. How- 
ever, if 1 had been a Turcoman, and my own sisters had been treat 
ed by the Russians in the way the Turcoman women have been, 1 

* For treatment of the Turcomans by the Russian soldiers' I refer the reader * 
to Blr. Schuyler's highly interesting work " Toorkistan," 



02s HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 83 



should have looked upon the matter from a Turcoman point of 
view. 

" They are not all equally guilty," 1 replied. 

" Equally guilty! Yes, they are. From the Tzar upon his throne 
to the soldiers who do his bidding they are a nation of assassins! 
What is the best way to get rid ot a wasp's nest?" he now inquired. 

" Smoke it, and destroy the young ones," I replied. 

" Well, that," said the Turcoman, " is what we must do with the 
Russians. We must kill them all. And Allah will be with us; for 
He knows who began the butchery. ' ' 

" Have many men gone from this village to the army?" J asked. 

" Every able-bodied man is serving, and we are now, all of us, 
going to the front; gray beards as well as boys. We feel that it is 
a war of extermination. If we do not defend* our homesteads, woe 
betide us!" 

On leaving Daili, the track was firm and good for the first three 
hours; it then became veiy precipitous, and led down steep declivi- 
ties, and over a succession of bowlders. At last we came to a large 
circular plain; it was surrounded by hills; on one side of this vast 
natural basin, and on a slope, lay Yuzgat. 

As we were nearing the Avails a cavalcade of horsemen appeared 
in sight. One of them advancing sainted us by touching his fez, and 
then addressed me in excellent French. He was a Pole,"Tankovitch, 
by name, and was employed as chief engineer in the district. He 
had received a telegram from the Italian doctor, H'. Gasparini. of 
Angora, to say that I was on the road, and had ridden out with some 
Armenian gentlemen to welcome us to the town. 

An Armenian now asked me to take up my quarters in his house. 
1 had bee* lodged beneath a Turkish roof at Angora, and was curi- 
ous to see the difference between the Christian andi Mussulman 
mode of living. 1 gladly accepted the offer. 

Many more horsemen, Turks and Armenians, joined us ere we 
entered the city. 1 now learned that my kind friend, the Bey of 
Angora, had telegraphed to some of his acquaintances, asking them 
to do what they could to make my stay at 1 uzgat pleasant. 

The news of the approach of an Englishman had already been 
spread through the town. The inhabitants had all turned "out to 
have a look at the stranger. 

" An Englishman in Yuzgat is indeed a surprise for the inhabi- 
tants," said a young Turk who was riding by my side. " 1 do not 
believe that one of your nation has been here for the last twenty 
years. We Turks are not ungrateful," he continued, with a smile. 
" We have not forgotten our old friends of the Crimea, and what 
you did for us then." 

,s Please God you will do as much now!" said another horseman. 
" Anyhow, your arrival has created an immense excitement; there 
was not so great a crowd to see the Pasha of Angora, when he paid 
us a visit." 

Sir," observed Radford, who, surprised at the tremendous ova- 
tion 1 was receiving from the crowd had gradually sidled up to my 
horse. " this reminds me of our riding after Don Carlos in Spain. 
Only in Spain, all the people came to look at Don Carlos, and here 
they have come to look at us. Just, sir, for all the world as if we 



84 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



were a Lord Mayor with his men in hartnor riding in state by the 

Horse Guards. There have been a lot of dirty Turks kissing Ostium 
already, so pleased they seem to see him. And two or three men 
were slobbering over my boots as we rode up the hill!" 

We entered a court-yard; dismounting, 1 ascended some steps 
which led to my host's house. The room placed at my disposal was 
furnished in a similar fashion to the one which 1 had inhabited in 
Angora. Several servants hastened to pull oft my riding-boots, and 
the proprietor said that some Armenians were waiting outside, the}' 
wished to speak to me. " Would 1 see them?" 

" By all means," 1 replied: " show them in." 

Several men entered; they were dressed in various costumes, the 
dressing-gown pattern being evidently a favorite amidst the inhabi- 
tants of Yuzgat. The visitors ranged themselves against the wall in 
onler, according to their social positions, and then salamed me. On 
my returning the salute, the gentlemen squatted down upon the floor, 
and the salaining ceremony was repeated. 

- ' They have come to ask whether you will honor them by inspecting 
the Armenian school," said my host, who, of higher rank than the 
visitors, had not squatted down on the floor, but was seated with his 
legs tucked under hinron the divan. 

" We aie all Christians," said an old and very dirty Armenian, 
who looked as if water and he had long been strangers to each other. 

"It is a pleasure to see a Christian," he added, "ltdoesrae 
good." 

" We are all delighted!" said the rest of the company. Where- 
upon we salamed again. 

" How do you like the Turks?" 1 now inquired. 

" They get on very well together," observed the Pole*who had 
accompanied me home, " and the law is carried out very fairly for 
all classes. I will give you an instance. The chief of the tele- 
graphs in Yuzgat is an Armenian. One day he saw a few Turkish 
boys teasing some Armenian children, and calling them giaours. He 
beat the Turkish children. Some Turks, coming up, took the part 
of the Mohammedan lads, and struck the telegraph man. The latter 
complained to the authorities; the Turks who had beaten him were 
at once imprisoned." 

" Twenty years ago this would not have happened, " said another of 
the visitors; " but here things have altered for the better. However, 
at Sivas," he coniinued, " you will find that the Christians are hor- 
ribly ill-treated by the Pasha. The prison is full of Christians. 
There is no sort of justice in that city. The Pasha takes away 
Christian little boys and girls from their parents, and shuts them up 
in his seraglio." 

" Is this true?" 1 inquired of Mr. Yankovitch. 

" They say so. But you must remember that you are in the 
East," was the Pole's reply. " Personally," he added, " 1 make a 
rule to believe nothing except what 1 see myself. You are going to 
Sivas?" 

"Yes." 

" Well, you will be able to judge for yourself. At all events, the 
Christians "in this town are not oppressed in any way. You see Ar- 
menians and Turks dining together at the same table, and so far as 



ON" HORSEBACK THIiOr^H ASIA MIJTOR. 



85 



justice is concerned, the Christian obtains quite as much ot it as the 
Mohammedans. " 

The Armenians, who by this time had finished their coffee, now- 
left the room: and Mr. Vankovitch remaining behind, began to tell 
me ot his experiences in Asia Minor, and of the cause which had in- 
duced him to leave his own country. 

He had beeu educated in the Military College at St. Petersburg, 
and had passed his examination for the engineers just hefore the 
Polish insurrection. Be had joined the rebels, and taking command 
of a large band which had assembled near Vilna, had fought against 
the Russians for more than two years. General Muravieff, known 
to history by his brutality to the women of Vilna, published four 
proclamations offering rewards for Yankovitchff 's head. Fortuue 
tavored the young Pole, who was able to escape his foes. When 
the rebellion was suppressed, he succeeded in reaching Odessa, and 
made his waj on board a Creek ship bound for Constantinople. 
After being two days at sea, the vessel, owing to bad weather, was 
obliged to put back into harbor. The captain then said, that as some 
Russian officers would be certain to come on board, it would be bet- 
ter for Vankovitch to remain concealed in a friend's house until the 
ship could sail. He took the adviee; but left all bis clothes and 
other effects in the cabin. 

The vessel started that night; he did not receive any warning and 
the captain, carrying off his baggage, robbed him of everything he 
had in the world. The Polish committee in Odessa raised a little 
money for their brother in misfortune: after paying for his passage 
in another steamer, he arrived at Constantinople with barely five 
pounds in his pocket. This was soon spent, and then in order to 
earn b?s bread, he obtained employment as a road-maker. The 
engineei Who superintended the work discovered that the navvy knew 
as much about road-making as he did himself. He promoted him 
to be assistant engineer. 

Vankovitch complained that he was unable to write 10 his father, 
a gentleman who resided near Vilna. The engineer had sent two or 
three letters; but on each occasion the envelopes were opened by the 
Russian police, and the parent had been heavily fined, simply be- 
cause Vankovitch had dared to write to him. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

My host now returned, and informed me that M. Perrot, a French 
author who wrote a book about Asia Minor, had resided beneath his 
roof. On turning over the leaves of the work, which had found its 
wav to "inzgat, 1 came to a page in which M. Perrot observes that 
" one day 1 inquired of my host why he did not introduce me to the 
lady of the house?" 

" It is our custom," was the reply. " And I find it a wise one. 
"What good does it do nee if other men see my wife? 1 took her for 
myself ; she is my property. 1 have heard that you Europeans spoil 
3'our wives; mine is educated properly. \v"nen 1 enter my harem, 
she comes to kiss my hand, then she stands upright before me in a 
respectful attitude, and she only opens her mouth when 1 address 
her." 



80 OH HORSEBACK THEOTJGH ASIA MINOR* 

On showing my host the paragraph, he observed, "When M. 
Perrot was here, my father owned this house. I remember the cir- 
cumstance well. 1 was in the room when M. Perrot asked my father 
to introduce him to my mother. 1 suppose my parent was under 
the impression that in Europe you keep your wives for your guests; 
but anyhow we keep our wives for ourselves." 

" What!" 1 inquired, " would you not introduce me to your sisters 
or mother?" 

44 No, certainly not. i 

Mr. Vankovitch here interposed with the remark that on the fol- 
lowing; day my host's niece was to be affianced to her future husband ; 
that the bridegroom had not set eyes upon the face of his intended, 
and no one in Yuzgat, save her own immediate relatives, had ever 
seen, the young lady. 

" Well," 1 inquired, " and if the wife of an Armenian is unfaith- 
ful to him, can he obtain a divorce?" 

•* No," replied my host; " our religion does not allow of such a 
step; he does not even see his wife's face before marriage." 

"Then he has no opportunity of studying his wife's character, 
and she has no opportunity of studying his." 

" No." 

"They are a set of fools," said Vankovitch tome in Russian, 
this language not being understood by the proprietor. " They think 
that by shutting up their wives they can keep them out of mischief, 
but the husbands are very much mistaken. We need not be sur- 
prised at it," he continued, "an Armenian lady is in no way 
educated. She is confined in a harem. She is the slave of her 
husband, and has to do all sorts of menial work for him— wash his 
feet, rub them dry, and wait at table. From her earliest childhood 
a girl is brought up to consider herself as a slave in her father's 
house; until the Armenians abandon these barbarous customs, their 
so-called Christianity will not do them much good. A Turkish 
husband has no difficulty in obtaining a divorce — in fact, he is not 
even put to the expense of going to a court of law. All he has to do 
Is to say, in the presence of a witness, * 1 renounce vou,' and he is 
at once freed from his wife, who is at liberty to go where she likes, 
and marry whomsoever she pleases. 

• " If a Turk," added Mr. Vankovitch, *' once renounces his wife 
before a witness, he can not withdraw his renunciation. There is a 
story that a woman, who wished to be divorced from her husband, 
dressed up one of her female slaves in man's clothes, and provided 
her with false whiskers and beard. On entering the harem late at 
night, the husband found this disguised figure lying by the side of 
his wife. He was furious, and at once renounced the, as he thought, 
faithless lady. There is a curious law about marrying a divorced 
woman, which is not generally known by Europeans," continued 
the speaker. " If a lurk has divorced his wife, but she wishes to 
return to him and he to take her, the lady, first of all, must be mar- 
ried to some other man, and the rights in their entirety be accom- 
plished; and the new spouse then divorces her. After this process, 
she can return to her former husband. 

" A husband who wishes to take to himself again his divorced 
wife, generally chooses some beggar, almost always a very old msn; 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR, 87 



he then offers this elderly individual a sum of money to marry the 
lady and after ward renounce her. Sometimes, however, there are 
difficulties in carrying out these arrangements. The lady takes a 
fancy to the beggar, and the beggar to the lady. The pauper will 
not divorce her, and the original husband is laughed at by the rest 
of the community." 

There were 10,000 inhabitants in Yuzgat, but there was very little 
crime. Only one execution had taken place during the last fifteen 
years, and this had been for murder. 

The town itself is, comparatively speaking, of recent date, its con- 
struction dating back 130 years. The neighborhood abounds with 
mines, and 1 was assured that iron, silver, and coal had been found 
near the city. 

The Armenians did not serve in the army as soldiers; but, in lieu 
of military service, paid the Ottoman government twenty-eight 
piastres, thirty-two paras every year for each male child, from his 
birth to his death. 

The Circassians, of whom there are a great many in this part of 
Turkey, are not compelled to join the army; but they have promised 
the government that every able-bodied man amongst them shall turn 
out as an irregular horse or foot soldier, should his services be re- 
quired. 

The people in the province of Angora are taxed as follows: If 
ground is cultivated, the proprietor gives the sultan the tithe of the 
crop. 

The owner of a house pays £4 per £1,000 of the estimated value 
of his abode, that is to say if he is living in it himself. If on the 
contrary he lets it, he must pay £40 per £1 ,000. The tax for people 
engaged in trade or commerce is 30,per cent, on their profits. If a 
merchant sells corn in a town, he has to pay a duty of two paras for 
every twenty okas of grain purchased from him, and should he dis- 
pose of a horse, sheep, or ox, in the market-place, he must give the 
government 2 1-2 per cent, of the proceeds of the sale. A farmer 
has to pay the government four piastres a year, if he is the owner of a 
goat, and three for each sheep he possesses. The collectors of taxes 
in almost every instance were Mohammedans; many of the Christians 
grumbled at the way they were assessed. 

If an Armenian girl expresses a wish to become a Mohammedan, 
this gives rise to great jealousy between the Turks and Christians. 
At the same time, the Armenians who profess the Armenian faith 
detest any member of their community who has accepted the Roman 
Catholic or Protestant doctrines. The Christians being much more 
intolerant toward the dissenters from their respective creeds than 
the Turks are to the Christians, 

There has hardly ever been an instance of a Turk accepting Chris- 
tianity, but the American missionaries in Asia Minor were said to 
have converted many Armenians to Protestantism. 

The Roman Catholic missionaries have not been idle. A number 
of Armenians no longer reversnce the Patriarch in Constantinople, 
but look upon the Pope as the Head of their Church. 

'I he Turks laugh in their sleeve at the discord in the ranks of the 
Christian community. They can not understand why so much hatred 



88 OX HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



and ill-feeling should exist between people who worship the same 
Messias. 

This difference ot opinion amongst the Christians is by no means 
displeasing to the Turkish authorities; it renders any union between 
the Armenians and Russia exceedingly difficult. 

The following morning a servant brought a paper to my host for 
his signature. It was a loyal address from the principal people in 
luzgat thanking the Sultan for the Constitution. None of the 
Armenians believed in the reiorm. Most of them held the same 
opinion as the inhabitants ot Angora, namely, that the piojected 
constitution was Ihrown out as a bait to catch some of the plenipoten- 
tiaries at the Conference, and that when the Conference was forgot- 
ten the Constitution would be numbered with the past. 

Vankovitch now called. I walked with nini to the market which 
he was constructing for the townpeople. It was not a large build- 
ing, being about eighty yards long by thirty wide; the houses were 
each of them two stories high, built of hewn stone with glass win- 
dows; the latter a great luxury for the natives, glass having to be 
brought all the way from Samsoun, a port on the Black Sea. The 
difficulties of transport were very great, half the glass arrived in a 
fractured state, this, and the extreme difficulty of carriage, added 
enormously to its cost price. 

In the market there was literally nothing which would have at- 
tracted an observer's attention. Some of the Armenians sold dye, 
wood, and goat's hair: others traded in cotton stuffs, and calicoes, 
one or two American lamps to burn petroleum were in the window 
of a small shop which was kept by a Greek. 

The engineer had experienced considerable difficulty in persuading 
the townspeople to let him construct a bazaar two stories high. 
" Our fathers have always been Satisfied with one story," remarked 
the tradesmen; " then why should not we?" 

In spite ot the opposition, Vankovitch, with Ihe Caimacan's assist- 
ance, had managed to carry the day. The people who had grumbled 
the loudest about the new order ot things were the first to take 
apartments in the two-storied building. 

We continued our walk through narrow lanes, and by the side of 
tumble-down hovels, till we arrived on the summit of a hill, the 
outskirts of the town. Some good-looking gypsy women, with brown 
complexions, large dark eyes, and long black hair, were standing at 
the door of one of these habitations. 

"These are the dancers," said Vankovitch; "Dr. Gasparini 
telegraphed from Angora to ask me to arrange a gypsy dance tor you. 
Let "us go and talk to one of the old women, and choose the girls who 
are to perform." 

An elderly dame recognized my companion: she advanced, and in- 
vited us to enter her house. When our errand was known great ex- 
citement ensued amidst the younger damsels of the gypsy community. 
Each one trusted that her good looks and skill in the Terpsichnrean 
art would influence my companion in his choice. 

"Be quiet!" said the old woman, indignantly to some of the 
more obstreperous of her young ladies, who, to show my companion 
their agility, were performing a sort of cancan step, very different 
from those dances I had hitherto seen in the East. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



89 



" Now, then, Efiendi," to Thy companioa, " how many girls do 
you require?" 
" Three." 

** Well, three you shall have. The most beautiful and gazelle-like 
of oi*r tribe. I will come myself," continued the old lady, " and I 
too will dance, if only to show the Frank Eftendi what our dance is 
like." 

It was as much as 1 could do to keep my countenance; the old 
woman was very tat; some of the girls, catching my eye, went off 
into fits of laughter. 

"Ah! you may laugh, children," said the old woman, indignant- 
ly, " but none of you can dance like 1 can. They are not supple 
like 1 am, EtTendi. They can not move theii hips. Ihey can not 
sway the lower part of their bodies. Look here!" 

And straightening hei aged limbs, the old woman commenced 
wriggling her different joints, the girls applauding her, and beating 
time with their hands to each movement of the dancer's body. 

" Very good," said Yankovitch, as she sunk down on a' divan, 
with a foice which would have smashed any less strong piece of 
furniture. " Very good. You dance like a stag. You shall come 
too. ' ' 

"Thank heaven!" he remarked in French, "that she did not 
throw herself on to my lap, for this is the custom of these wild 
dancers; if she had done so, there would nol have been much left 
of me. But come along, let us return; it is very stuffy here." 

After making an appointment with the old lady for the dancers to 
come to us on the following evening, we descended the hill and 
walked toward the principal mosque' in the town. 



CHAPTER XV111. 

On taking off our shoes at the entrance, we were at once admitted 
into a large building constructed in the form of a dome. Two vast 
circular halls, leading the one into the other, were beneath the lofty 
ceiling. Stained glass windows, wilh infinitesimally small panes, 
allowed but little light to penetrate to the interior, which was car- 
peted with rich Persian rugs of many hues and fashions. Chains, 
descending from the center of the buiHing, supported a huge circu- 
lar hoop of iron. From this were suspended a hundred lamps of 
different-colored crystal. Two enormous wax-candles, each as thick 
as a man's leg, and about seven feet high, were fixed in a corner of 
the building. They had been made to last a year, and had cost 
" tchok para "—a great many paras. 

The attendant evidently thought that he should impress my mini 
with this announcement, and he uttered the word " tchok " in a 
way which no Englishman could imitate save when he is in the ex- 
treme agonies of sea-sickness. Forty or fifty Turks were lying on 
the floor, and seemed to be in no way disturbed by the entrance of 
Mr. Vankovitch and myself. 

" Are there always as many people here?" 1 inquired. 

" There are very lew to-day," was the reply; " but at whatever 
hour you may enter, the faithful will be found praying to the All- 
powerful One who rules the Universe." 



9o 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MItfOR. 



This, indeed, 1 subsequently discovered to be the ease. No mat- 
ter how early or late I might enter a mosque, there were always 
some men on their knees, praying to the Almighty; and whenever a 
service was going on, the mosques were invariably crowded. 

" They pray more than Europeans do," said my companion* the 
engineer, as we quitted the mosque. " With us," he added, " the 
women throng the churches, the men are conspicuous by their ab- 
sence; in Turkey you will hardly ever meet a man who is in the 
habit ot absenting hiniselt irom his mosque. Indeed, a Moham- 
medan's superstitious teelings cvould not allow him to do so, even if 
he felt inclined; be would think that the Divine vengeance would at 
once pursue him to his destruction." 

We now called upon a Turkish gentleman, Daravish Bey. Pres- 
ently he left the room, and, returning, brought an old flint-gun, 
marked " London, 1802." He next suggested that we should join 
him in a shooting excursion, and, calling a servant, desired the man 
to bring in a falcon. This, Daravish Bey said, would be very use- 
ful, as, if we missed the partridges, the hawk would catch them for 
us. 

" We shall then have some game to show when we return," he 
continued, 15 and the people will not be able to laugh at our beards/" 

"Vankovitch is a wonderful shot," said another Turk. "He 
shoots partridges flying! only think! flying in the air! In the name 
of Heaven, is it not wondeitul? Can you hit a partridge, except 
when he is quite still?" 

"Sometimes," 1 said: "but, unfortunately, most of my car- 
tridges are wet; anyhow, I will try and find a few dry ones, and 
will go with you to-morrow." 

"There is another thing which you must see before you leave 
Yuzgat," observed Daravish Bey, " and that is our national game, 
Djerrid. 1 have already spoken about it," he continued; " the day 
after to-moirow all the best riders in the neighborhood will assemble 
on the plain outside the town. In the meantime, 1 hope that you 
will dine with me this evening." 

" But 1 am staying with an Armenian gentleman, and he will ex- 
pect me to dine at home." 

" Bring him with you. Nay, do not disappoint me," he added. 
" It is many years since an Englishman has been at Yuzgat, and we 
do not know how to honor one sufficiently when he is here. Eng- 
land and Turkey are old allies, and God grant that they may re- 
main so." 

1 returned to my quarters, and found the Gairnacan, who had 
come to pay me a' visit. He was very busy, as he had to arrange 
for some redif soldiers who were to be dispatched at once to Con- 
stantinople. After a few compliments and a cup of cofiee, he arose 
and took his departure. 

My host now observed: 

" Effendi, will you do me a favor?" 

" What is it?" 1 inquired. 

" Mr. Vankovitch has discharged one of his under officers, an 
Armenian. The man is a friend of mine —will you ask Mr. Van- 
kovitch to pardon my friend, and reinstate him in his situation?" 

" The officer is a thief," said the engineer, " for that reason 1 got 



OH HOESEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



91 



rid of him. But this remark oi our host will show you what sort 
of people these Armenians are. He is well aware that the fellow is 
a rogue. He knows that 1 do not wish to take him back: to try 
and make me do so, he asks you, who are ignorant of the circum- 
stance, to intercede in the matter." 
" You will intercede?" said the host. 

" How can 1? Mr. Vankovitch must know the man's character 
better than 1 do." 

" But Mr. Vankovitch would do it if you asked him." 

V 1 certainly shall not give him the opportunity of refusing," 1 
replied. And seeing that 1 was obdurate, my host left off pressing 
me for the moment, but only to return to the attack on the follow- 
ing day. 

Ihe next morning, and soon after da} break, we assembled for the 
chase. The engineer had mounted me on a magnificent coal-black 
Arab. He himself rode a little bay, with good shoulders and fine 
acticn; whilst his wife, a Bosnian lady, who was attired in a light 
blue riding-habit, a hat with a peacock's feather, and who wore on 
her boot a long cavalry spur — was mounted on a chestnut. 

Vankovitch had slung his gun across his shoulders. His double- 
breasted shooting-coafc was dotted with cartridge-cases in the Cir- 
casian style. He was an object of great interest to a crowd of by- 
standers, and was evidently the chasseur par excellence of Yuzgat. 
Some Turkish women wrapped up in long white sheets, slared 
through the corners of their veils at Mrs. Vankovitch, and were very 
much astonished at the proceedings, for the lady was on a side-sad- 
dle, which the engineer had lately received from Constantinople. 
It was only the first or second time that it had been seen in Yuzgat. 
The giaour woman balanced on a peg on the side of the saddle was a 
source of considerable wonder to the assembled crowd. 

" How odd these giaours are!" said a Turk to his neighbor. 
" Why, even their women go out hunting! What a thing to ride 
on! Look, she has only one toot in the stirrup, and 'her other leg 
is across a peg in the saddle." 

" How could you sit cross-legged if you had on that very thin, 
long dressing-gown which she is wearing?" said another bystander. 
" But here come Daravish Bey and his brother. They are actually 
going with the Frank to the chase!" 

The attention of the crowd was now taken up hy the new arrivals. 

The two Turkish gentlemen were both dressed alike in black cloaks 
lined with fur, and which descended to their heels. Gold necklaces 
passing through diamond rings encircled each man's neck. Red 
waistcoats, buttoned up high in front, exposed to view an inch or 
two of limp, unstarched shirt-front: loose black trousers covered 
their legs, and a blue and white shabrach their highly-gilded saddles. 

An attendant on a pony bore a falcon on his arm. borne pointers 
and a greyhound brought up the rear of the procession. Radfoid 
carried my double-barreled gun, and a few cartridges, which on 
careful inspection seemed not to have been damaged by the wetting 
in the ri^er. He was also a source of wonder to the crowd. It was 
whispered about that the gun which he carried was like the Pole's 
fire-arm, and that it would sometimes sboot partridges on the wing. 

We rode over a mountain, covered with pebbles. Presently one 



92 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



of the pointers began to sniff. Vankovitch thought that there was 
some game close at hand. He dismounted from his horse, accom- 
panied by Daravish Bey, who wa9 armed with the old English flint- 
gun. A crowd of men and urchins, who had followed us on foot 
from Yuzgat, watched the proceedings with the greatest interest. 
Suddenly a covey of partridges rose about a hundred and fifty yards 
from the Pole. Two reports sounded in rapid succession, the birds 
flew away untouched. The attendant released the falcon, and in a 
lew seconds a partridge was in its claws. 

A hare broke from behind an adjacent rock. In a moment we 
were in headlong pursuit, the Bosnian lady riding foremost of the 
flight, her horse taking the bowlders and loose rocks which strewed 
the palh in a way that showed he was well accustomed to this. style 
of hunting. 

A well-known sound made me turn my head. To niy surprise I 
saw a young Turk galloping after me on Osman's horse— the roarei. 
I had given orders that the animal was to be left in the stable, so 
that he might recover from the effect of our forced marches the 
week before. 

" What are you doing with that horse?" » 

" Eflendi, L am galloping him," was the quiet reply. " Osman 
lent him to me, and said that he was his property. Have 1 done 
wrong in riding nim?" 

" Yes," 1 said; " take him back at once." 

" Sir," interrupted Radford, " that is just like Osman's himpu- 
dence, a-lending things which don't belong to him, and he is not 
that particular in returning them either. He is always asking me to 
lend him some tobacco, and veiy little I ever see of it again, except 
in the smoke which comes out of his mouth." 

" How much are you paying for the forage of your horses?" now 
inquired Vankovitch, who had returned with the hare in his 
hand. 

" About seven shillings a day." 
The Pole began to laugh. 

" Seven shillings! Do you know, my dear sir, that your Turkish 
servant is robbing you?" 

" Very likely," I replied. " Most servants rob their masters. 
But what is the price of a horse's forage tor a day?" 

About one-and-a-half piastres, or at the present rate of exchange 
about twopence of your money. And chickens," continued Van- 
kovitch, " what has he made you pay for them in the different vil- 
lages on your route?" 

' A shilling apiece." 

" He is a thief," said the Pole, " you have been awfully cheated! 
why, the price in the town is only three halfpence for a fat chicken! 
When we return to Yuzgat, send tor your man, and let me ask 
him a few questions. You shall not be gobbed any more if 1 can 
help it. It is a bad thing for other European travelers, and it 
gives the inhabitants a lesson in robbery. There was a Russian 
officer here a few years ago. He had been paying as much as a 
medjidi a day for each of his horses. . However, he was a Russian, 
and it did not so much matter." 

The following day 1 went to see the Armenian schools. In one 



ON HOKSEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MINOR. 



93 



of them 1 tound 200 girls who, for Turkey, were receiving a fair 
education. Most of them could read and write. A class for learn- 
ing embroidery was well attended, some of the elder girls' work 
being very neatly finished. There were two Mohammedan children 
in a sewing class. I was informed that many of the Mussulmans 
had expressed a wish to send their children to the school. 

" Perhaps you would like to ask the boys some questions," said a 
priest, who accompanied me through the building. 

Now if there is one thing 1 dislike it is being turned into an ex- 
aminer. There is always a chance of the boys knowing a great 
deal more than the amateur setter of questions. But, as the clergy- 
man pressed me, I tried to remember some of the sums which 1 had 
ouce learned under the tuition of my highly esteemed old master, 
Mr. Marillier of Harrow. 

The herring and a halt sum would have been too easy; I be- 
thought myself of another. 

" Well,'*' said the priest, a little impatiently, " they are waiting 
for you." 

There was a dead pause, and 1 gave the worthy divine the follow- 
ing question: " If one man can mow a field in three days, and an- 
other man in four, how long will they be doing the work, if they 
are both mowing it together?" 

" Come," said the divine, " you have set them a very easy sum," 
and he duly translated it into Armenian. 

" It is hardly worth doing," said one of the schoolmasters, " for 
of course the answer is three days and a half." 

" Of course three and a half," said the priest. 

V No," 1 replied. 

The engineer began to laugh, and we soon afterward left the 
school, neither masters nor pupils being at all certain in their minds 
as to how they ought to set about doing the sum. 

1 breathed more freely on arriving in the open air, and blessed my 
old master, who had once set me this catch question, for my repu- 
tation as a profound mathematician is established forever amidst 
this generation of school-boys in yuzgat. After saying good-by to 
the senior pedagogue who had accompanied me to the steps of the 
threshold, 1 asked him to give the lads a half-holiday. He very 
kindly acceded to my request; and a cheer from the boys inside, 
when the good news was imparted to them, made me aware that 
they, if not their masters, were in no way dissatisfied with my visit. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

1 called upon a Greek who had paid me a visit on the day of 
my arrival. Several of his compatriots were with him. They at 
once commenced conversing about what they suffered under the 
Turkish administration. 

" We are very badly treated," said one. 

V Very badly, indeed," said another. 

" Aie the Christians here ever tortured?" 1 inquired. 

"No." 

" Have you ever heard of any of them being impaled?" 



94 



OK HOESEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MIKOE. 



The company began to laugh. 

" No such things go on in Turkey," said my host; " hut the law- 
is bad, that is what we mean. Just betore you arrived, we were 
talking about a Turk who had borrowed some money trom one of 
our countrymen, and had given a gun as security for the debt. The 
Turk died, and the Christian, not being paid what he was owed, 
sold the gun to a friend, len years afterward a son of ihe deceased 
Turk came and claimed the weapon, which he said was his father's 
property, and consequently his own. There were no papers nor wit- 
ness to prove that Ihe gun had been pledged, and the Cadi decided 
tor the Mohammedan." 

" If a Turk had been in the Greek's place, would the same de- 
cision have been given?" I inquired. 

V Yes," was the answer; " the law is equally bad for Turks and 
Christians." 

There is one peculiarity^ about the Armenians and Greeks in 
Yuzgat which attracts the attention of the traveler, and this is that 
many of them can not write tbeir own language, although they em- 
ploy its characters. Their conversation is almost invariably in Turk- 
ish. In corresponding with a friend, both Armenians and Greeks 
will write in Turkish, but with the Armenian or Greek letters. The 
schools, which are encouraged by the Mohammedan authorities, are 
improving the Christians in this respect. The present generation 
ot children can most of them speak, as well as write, in the language 
of their ancestors. 

Later on in the day, 1 mounted my horse, and accompanied the 
engineer and his wife to the outskirts of the town, fiere there is a 
vast nalurai basin formed by a circular chain ot steep heights. 
Yuzgat,* which is built on the side of a hill, and with its houses 
to wering above the plain, looks down upon the enormous arena. An 
immense crowd was assembled. Horsemen were present of all 
nationalities and clad in every kind of costume. Turks, Persians, 
Armenians, Greeks, Circassians, Tartars, Kurds, Turcomans, 
Georgians, were grouped together in little clusters, and talking to 
their fellow-countrymen. Hundreds of women, clad in long white 
sheets, had retired a short distance, and from a slight elevation were 
gazing down upon the assembled multitude. 

Presently the horsemen divided into two sides. Each man carried 
a djerrid or short stick, about four feet long, not quite so thick as a 
man's wrist, and weighted a little at one end. The right hand of 
the cavaliers grasped the middle of the djerrid. The two bands of 
mounted men, reining their horses back, halted facing each other, 
and about eighty yards apart. 

Now, at a signal from the leader of one side, a horseman dashed 
forward at the opposing band. Brandishing his djerrid in the air, 
and shouting wildly to Allah, he hurled it at one of his opponents. 
The latter, who was on his guard, turned his horse on his haunches, 
and galloped away in the same direction as the missile was coming. 
Reaching backward, the rider caught the stick, and was greeted by 
the applause of the bystanders. 



* For importance of Yuzgat from a military point of riew, see Appendix 



CW HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



95 



Meanwhile the horseman who had first attacked, hastened to re- 
gain his party. He was pursued in headlong career .by one of the 
other side, who in turn hurled the djerrid. The game requires con- 
siderable skill in horsemanship, and great nerve. The stick is 
thrown with all the rider's strength, augmented by the velocity with 
which his steed is galloping. It the missile be not caught or 
parried, but strike a man's body, the eftect is often serious; bones are 
fractured. Death sometimes ensues. The horses too have to be 
highly trained, so as to -be able to halt when at full speed, and, turn- 
ing, to start off in a contrary direction. 

" We rode better in our time," said an old man, attired in a crim- 
son dressing-gown, and who was eagerly watching the proceedings, 
to a companion by his side; " but what is that which is coming in 
this direction?" 

In the distance a marriage procession could be seen winding amidst 
the hills. A bride was being carried in a cart drawn by oxen to her 
bridegroom's house. A band playing *discordant music marched in 
front. Several women enveloped* in sheets of white muslin rode be- 
hind the vehicle. They were mounted on donkeys, and sat astride 
them like men. The position is a curious one, particularly when 
the lady wears a short dress. 

As the procession passed by the crowd, some of the donkeys began 
to trot. The motion became very disagreeable to the fair equestrians. 
The robes began to rise, and the husbands running forward, held 
down their wives' attire. This would have provoked the laughter 
of a European crowd, but in Turkey women are looked upon as 
beings to be shut off from the public gaze. The Mohammedan 
husband as a rule does not like any one to see him walking with his 
own wife. The children too look upon their father as a being far- 
superior to themselves. The Turkish parent walks first alone: the 
road, the children next some fifty yards behind their father. Last 
of all comes the wife, alone and neglected. She accepts this lot 
with resignation—her mother was a slave before her, and she will 
remain one till death or divorce dissolve the marriage-tie. 

1 now called upon the head of the Mohammedan religion at 
Yuzgat. He received me very courteously, and we conversed of the 
Mussulman and Christian faith. It appeared that very recently a 
house belonging to the Imaum (priest) had been burned to the 
ground. , 

" 1 hope you did not lose much property," 1 remarked. 

" Everything 1 had was burned, " said the old man. " But it did 
not signify. Allah was kind. The inhabitants raised a subscription 
for me. My house will soon be restored," he continued. " Allah 
is very good to all the true believers. If a house belonging to one 
of your Christian Mollahs (priests) be burned down, what does he 
do?" inquired the old Mohammedan. 

" His house is generally insured," 1 replied. " He pays a little 
money every year to a company, and then if the edifice is destroyed 
by fire, it is buirt up again for him." 

" Does he pay much money?" 

" Yes, if the house is a good one, he has to pay a large sum every 
year." 

" "What is the good of paying at all?" said the Mohammedan, 



96 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



■ ' Why does he not trust in Allah? That is what I have done. My 
new house will cost me nothing. God is great, there is but one 
God! And Mohammed, he is the Prophet of God," added the old 
man piously. 

"But 1 thought that you believed in Kismet — destiny," 1 ie- 
marked. 

"Destiny is great, but Allah is greater. He created destiny," 
was the reply. 

x Do you think that Allah can change His mind?" 

"He is All-powerful; He can do what he likes," observed the 
Iniaum, excitedly. 

Later in the day I walked into an Armenian church. This was a 
larffe building, with red carpets, and rather reminded me of a 
mosque. It must sometimes have been bitterly cold inside, for there 
were no stoves in the building. I was informed that the upper 
classes who came to pray all wore furs. As the lower orders are 
not able to pay 1 or any such warm garments, they must occasionally 
be half-frozen when listening to their priest's oration. 

A raised platform at one end of the church was inclosed by trellis- 
work. It was so constructed that the occupants of the gallery could 
see the clergyman, without their attention being occupied* by the 
congregation. 

" This gallery is for our women," said an Armenian, who showed 
me over the building; " and the trellis- work is to prevent them fiom 
staring at the men." 

" Or, rather, to prevent the men from staring at them!" 

My companion laughed at the remaik. 

" It answers both purposes!" he exclaimed. " But if you look at 
the screen, you will see that it is broken in several places, three or 
four of the holes in Ihe trellis-partition have been made into one. 
The women have done this to obtain a better view. Do you uot 
separate women from the men in .your churches?" he inquired. 

"No." 

" Then if the ladies are as pretty as they are said to be, your clergy- 
men must find it rather difficult to keep the attention of his flock." 
It was getting dusk. 1 went straight from the church to the Pole's 
house. There was hardly any furniture in it. This he explained by 
saying that he was only temporarily employed at Yuzgat; so soon as 
he had finished building the new bazaar, he would have to return 
to Angora. A few divans, as in the Turkish houses, surrounded the 
w r alls. The two-barrelled gun, which sometimes " shot partridges 
flying," the wonder of the other sportsmen in \uzgat, was lying in 
a corner. 

After dinner, which was washed down by some very fair led 
wine, manufactured by the Christians in the town, a littjp boy, 
about twelve years of age, entered the room;- coming up to my host, 
he whispered something in his ear. 

"The gypsies have arrived," said Yankovitck: turning to the 
lad, he desired him to lay down some carpets at the other end of 
the apartment. 

" That boy does not cost me much,'* said my host, pointing to 
his servant. " 1 found him starving in the streets a few years ago, 
during the famine. His mother had turned him out of doors. The 



ON" HORSEBACK THROT7GH ASIA MT^OR. 



9: 



child had nothing to eat. 1 took pity on the poor little fellow, and 
he has been with me ever since; he does more work than all the rest 
of the servants together. Whilst, if 1 wish to punish him, all 
have to do is to polut to the door." 



CHAPTER XX. 

Some gypsy men now entered, and, squatting down on the carpet, 
began to tune their lutes. One of their party carried a tearful in- 
strument. It was rathe! like the bagpipes. He at once commenced 
a wild and discordant blast. The musicians were followed by the 
dancers. 

The chief ot the gypsy women was provided with a tambourine. 
She was attired in a blue jacket, underneath this was a purple waist- 
coat, slashed with gold embroidery, a pair of veiy loose, j r el!o\v 
trousers covered her extremities. Massive gold earrings had 
stretched the lobes ot her ears, I hey reached nearly to the shoul- 
ders, and by way of making herself thoroughly beautiful, and doiug 
fit honor to the occasion, she had stained her teeth and fingei -nails 
with some red dye. Her eyebrows had been made to meet by a line 
drawn with a piece ot charcoal. Gold spangles were fastened to 
her black locks. Massive brass rings encircled her ankles, the 
metal jingling as she walked, or rather waddled round the room. 

The two girls who accompanied her were in similar costumes, 
but without the gold spangles for their hair, which hung in long 
tresses below their waists." The girls, advancing, took the hand of 
Vankovitch's wife, and placed it on their heffds as a sort of deferen- 
tial salute. The P0I3 poured out a glass ot raki for the fat woman, 
who, though a Mohammedan, was not averse to alcohol. !She 
smacked her lips loudly; the man with the bagpipes gave vent tu 
his feelings m a more awful sound than before; the lutes struck up 
m different k< 3 ys, and the ball began. 

The tw r o girls whirled round each other, first slowdy, and then 
increased their pace til' their long black tresses stood out at right 
angles from their bodies. The peispiration poured down their 
cheeks. The old lady, who was seated on a divan, now uncrossed 
her legs, beating her brass ankle-rings the one against the other, she 
added yet another noise to the din which prevailed. The girls 
snapped their castanets, and commenced wriggling their bodies 
around each other with such velocity that it was impossible to recog- 
nize the one from the other. All of a sudden the music stopped. 
The panting dancers threw themselves dow T n on the laps of the 
musicians. 

** What do you think of the performance?" said Yankovitch to 
me, as he poured out anothei glass of laid for the dancers. " It is 
real hard woik, is it not?" Then, without waiting for the answer, 
he continued, "The Mohammedans who read of European balls, 
and who have never been out ot Turkey, cannot understand people 
taking any pleasure in dancing. ' What is the good ot it when I 
can hire some one else to dance for me?' is the remark." 

" They are not very wroner," I here observed, " that is, if they 
form an idea of European dances from their own. Oui Lord Oham- 
<* .. 



98 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOJR. 



berlain would soon put a stop to these sort of performances in Eng- 
land." 

•" The Lord Chamberlain, who is he?" inquired an Armenian who 
was present, and who spoke French, 

" He is an official who looks after public morals." 

" And do you mean to say that he would object to this sort of a 
dance?" 

"^es*." 

"But this is nothing," said Yankovitch. " When there is a 
marriage festival in a harem, the women arrange their costumes so 
that one article of attire may fall off after another during the dance. 
The performers are finally left, in very much the same garb as our 
first parents before the fall. We shall be spared this spectacle, for 
my wife is here. The gypsies will respect her presence because they 
know that she is a European." 

Now the grrls, calling upon the old woman, insisted that she too 
should dance. The raki had mounted into the old dame's- head. 
Nothing loath, she acceded to their request; rising to her feet she 
commenced a pas seul in front of the engineer. First shrugging her 
shoulders, and then wriggling from head to toe, as if she were 
suffering from St. Vitus' dance, she finally concluded, by kneeling 
before my hostess, and making a movement as if she would kiss 
her feet. 

The following morning, and just before my departure, the Pole, 
who had come to say good-by to me, called Osman to his side. 

" The Effendi is paying two medijis a day for his horses," re- 
marked Yankovitch, " and six piastres for a chicken! Oh! Osman! 
thou descendant of * line of thieves! What is the meaning ot 
this?" 

The Turk changed color for a moment; but then, collecting him- 
self, replied: 

"The Effendi's horses are not like other horses, they eat more, 
and work more. We and he, too, we all like large chickens. The 
Effendi is rich, and he pays; he is big, and he eats a great deal. 
He is not giving more for barley now T than he gave when he was in 
Constantinople. The people at the khans tell me the price, 1 give 
them what they ask. It would not do for me to be mean with my 
lord's gold. In future 1 shall know better. 1 will find out the 
proper value of everything, and 1 will only pay what is just." 

1 interrupted him. 

"Osman," I said, "you are a thief! However, as we leave 
Yuzgat to-day, there is no time foi me to get another servant. 
Only, heware! for if 1 find you deceiving me any more, not all the 
hairs in the prophet's beard shall save you from being discharged." 

" The Effendi knows what is best," said Osman, coolly. "He 
has brain, and 1 — I am the dust in his sight. Another time we will 
not give so much for our baiie} 7 , we will tighten our purse-strings 
to the chicken-sellers. We have all been deceived, we will be so no 
longer. 1 ' 

We rode through an undulating country, in the direction ot Sivas. 
The track was firm and good; there was an abundant supply of 
water throughout tne district, numerous flocks and herds were 
grazing by the side of the path. 



OH HORSEBACK THRO UGH ASIA M1KOR. 99 



After marching for six hours and a half we halted at a Turcoman 
village, called Kulhurdook, which contained forty-five mud-hovels. 
With much difficulty 1 obtained accommodation in a filthy dirty 
barn. Here our horses were also sheltered; side by side with them 
stood several cows and oxen. A small piece of carpet covered !he 
ground in one corner of the building. The proprietor, bringing me 
a pillow, which once had been white, but was now black as dirt, 
placed it under my head, Radford and Osman lying down by the 
side of the horses. 

There were several mostaphos, or men belonging to the last army 
reserve, in this village. Tney eagerly inquired if there would be 
war, but did not express any wish to fight their country's battles. 
This struck me as the more remarkable, for elsewhere 1 had ob- 
served great martial ardor among the rural classes. 1 afterward 
learned that several men who had been enlisted irom this village 
had been killed in Servia, hence the unwillingness of the mostaphos 
to go to what they considered certain death. 

1 tried to sleep; this was impossible; some little insects, which 
the manager of the Crystal Palace advertises as " industrious," 
proved their industry by making fierce onslaughts on my body. 
Repeated groans trom Osman made me aware that even his skin 
was not proof against the attack; while my English servant, who 
had given up all idea of sleeping, was walking about with a pipe in 
his mouth, and probably doing anything but bless his master who 
had brought him to such an out-of-the-way region. 

" Can you not sleep, Radford?" I inquired. 

"Sleep, sir! No! They are running up my legs like coach 
'osses. Hosman's skin is like an ironclad, but they give him no 
peace; they worry awful, that they do. 1 have Deen trying to 
smoke them oft me, but 'bacca is nothing to these fleas. We shall 
be eaten alive if we stay here much longer — I know we shall!" 

Having come to much the same conclusion, I ordered him to 
saddle the horses, and, to the astonishment of the proprietor of the 
hovel, we left our quarters three hours before daybreak. 

Presently the country became more mountainous. It reminded 
me a good deal of the Saxon Switzerland, the scenery being very 
picturesque as our path wound round some wooded slopes. 

We were in a country abounding with pine forests. The tele- 
graph-wire to Sivas was stretched not far trom our track. Many 
saw-mills, turned by the mountain streams, showed where the tele- 
graph-posts had been made; they Bad then been dragged by oxen to 
their destination. 

Our road ran through a pleasant vallev, and by the side of a 
mountain stream known as the Gogderi Soo. In a few hours we 
arrived at a river, called the Tschekar Ermak. It is crossed by a 
weak stone bridge, the stream being about thirty yards wide by four 
deep. We halted for the night at the village of Tchirklik, a two 
days' march, or thirteen hours from Kulhurdook. 

1 was accommodated in a house which actually possessed two 
rooms. They were not constructed in the side of a hill, as the other 
dwellings in the neighborhood, but of wood — one room being re- 
setted for the proprietor's cattle, sheep, and camels, the other for 
himself and harem, 



100 ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



1 was permitted to sleep in the stable. Osman, with Radford and 
our horses, were lodged in a hovel at the other end ot the village. 

In Hie middle of the night 1 awoke with a feeling of suffocation, 
my throat was dry and parched, my eyes began to smart, a crackling 
noise overhead could be heard. It gradually dawned upon me that 
the house was on fire. 1 now discovered that tiie flames from the 
fireplace had ignited some boards in the chimney; they, in their 
turn, had set fire to the loof. If the propriet< r, who was sheping 
in the next room, were not immediately aroused, his house would in 
all probability be destroyed. The building was surrounded by a 
courtyard with high mud walls. The soaee outside the dwelling 
was infested by dogs. They at once came smelling around me. 

Shutting the door, tr> prevent the flumes from bursting out inside, 
1 went to the harem. The entrance was haired from within. The 
proprietor and his wives were fast s sleep; they paid no attention to 
the noise which 1 made at the door. 

It was of no use standing upon any ceremony with a man when 
his house is being burned down; drawing my levolrer 1 tired two 
shots in the air; thinking that the sound oi the reports would arouse 
the sleeping inmates. The effect was instantaneous; the whole 
family awoke, the man, greatly alarmed, thinking that an attack 
was being made on the village by a tribe of Kurds; slowly drawing 
the bolt, he looked through a crack in the door. 

" Come," 1 said, " your house is on fire' Be quick, or it will be 
burned down, and your "camels and oxen suffocated!" 

The proprietor bounded out of the room. He was followed by 
the harem; the ladies, in the confusion, aid not think ot covering * 
their faces, and w 7 eie very scantily attired. They ran to a well in 
the yard and brought some pitchers ot water, The proprietor, by 
this time, had climbed to the root of his house. It was a windy 
night: the gusts were a source of considerable inconvenience to the 
water-bearers; their hands being occupied with the pitchers, they 
could net arrange their garments. The latter fluttered above the 
ladies' heads, to the great discomfort of the proprietor, who, much 
enraged at his house being on fire, was equally annoyed at his 
wives' legs being exposed to the view ot an unbeliever. 

To relieve his" mind, 1 clambered on to the roof. From this 
posilion the ladies' limbs could no longer be seen. After pouring 
several buckets of water on the charred rafters we managed to ex- 
tinguish the flames. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

It was a bright moonlight night. Kot thinking it likely that we 
should obtain any more sleep, I determined to start at once, and take 
advantage ot the* weather. Desiring Radford and Osnian, who had 
been aroused by the reports ot my revolver, to saddle the horses, we 
set oft in the direction of Sileh Zela, a town which contains three 
thousand houses, and a barracks which will hold, at a pinch, fifteen 
hundred soldiers. 

Sileh Zela stands in the center of a natural basin, the hills which 
form its sides being at a distance ot six or seven miles from the 
town, A small rising ground near the principal street is occupied by 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



101 



the ruins of an old citadel. A stream runs through the heart, of the 
citv. The soil in the neighborhood is very rich; com abounds 
throughout the district. The inhabitants do not seem to have 
sufTeied from the famine which a few years ago so depopulated the 
Angora district. 

Half a battalion of infantry, about four hundred strong, was drill- 
ing in a plain immediately in front of the town. The inhabitants 
Lad turned out, men and women, to witness the instruction of the 
troops. The white dresses of the ladies, contrasting with the blue 
uniforms, red caps, and the many-colored dresses ot the inhabitants, 
formed a bright and vivid picture. It was a g'orious day. The sun 
poured down its rays with a force much more suggestive of July 
than January. The* drill was just over as we nearecTthe town. We 
rode into SHeli at the head ot the regiment, the baud, which con- 
sisted of about twenty musicians, performing a wild and discordant 
march. Halting at the house of the Caimacan, 1 dismounted and 
proceeded to pay him a vi^it. He was in the audicnce-chanibt r, sur- 
rounded by clerks, who were on their knees, and submitting differ- 
ent documents for his approval. 

The great man himselt was squatted on a divan; the members of 
the town-council were by his side. 7 he Cadi, whose head was en- 
velooed in a gigantic yellow turban, was engaged in smoking a long 
chibouk. A crowd ot men were in the anteroom, some with peti- 
tions in their hands, others apparently prisoners, judging by the 
guards who stood beside them. 

It was evidently a busy day. The Caimacan, not taking any no- 
tice of my arrival, continued attaching his seal to the different papers. 

At last* he slopped, and turning to me, salamed and apologized 
for his apparent rudeness. It appeared that the half battalion which 
1 had set u drilling was to march the following morning ior Con- 
stantinople, via Samsoun. Tne Caimacan was engaged "in making 
arrangements for its departure. Carriers would have be sent forward 
to the different villages between Sileh Zela and Samsoun to ap- 
prise the local authorities pi the approaching arrival of the tioops. 
The chief difficulty which the Caimacan experienced was the want 
of money; he presently observed, "Asfter icltok, Iqkin para yoke/' 
" We have plenty of soldiers, but no paras " (money). 

The colonel of the battalion now entered the room, and after hav- 
ing been introduced to me, observed that he had heard that in the 
event ot hostilities England would be neutral. 

" What! desert her old friend of the Crimea?" said the Caima- 
can, turning to me. And the Cadi, grinning in a ghastly manner at 
the rest ot "the company, remarked that England had many paras, 
and that perhaps she would send some of them to the Sultan. 

Ibis created a revulsion of feeling in my favor— the assembly 
having been a little annoyed at the colonel's statement about the 
neutrality of Great Britain. 

" Well," 1 said, " you will probably have an ally in Austria." 

"An ally in Austria!" said the colonel; "no, certainly not." 
There are more Slavs than Magyars in the Emperor Francis Joseph's 
dominions. However, Andras'sy, a Hungarian, is at the head ot 
affairs, and by all accounts he rules the emperor. Perhaps Andrassy 
may prevent Austria from allying herself with Russia' against us. 



102 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



We shall have to fight our own battles this time," continued the 
colonel; " and, please God, we will win." 

An old lmaum who was seated iu a corner, now put in a word, 
and said that it there were a war, he too would go at the head ot 
the Irnaums. 1 had observed this same propensity for righting 
amidst other Mohammedan priests. In fact, in Asia, as in Europe, 
the most bellicose members of society are often those gentlemen 
whose profession is that of peace.* 

" We shall have Yakoob Khan of Kashgar with us," observed the 
Caimacan. 

"No, we shall not," replied the colonel; "the "Russians have 
stirred up a quarrel between Yakoob and the Chinese, so as to pre- 
vent him giving us any assistance." 

"Will any other Mohammedan States help you?" 1 inquired. 

" Yes, ail of them will fight for Islam." 

" Russia is large," continued the officer, " but she will have to 
divide her forces. She will have to be ou her guard against the 
Khivans, Bokknrians, and Turcomans in Asia, she must also protect 
herself against a rising of the Poles in Europe." 

The Caimacan no w rising from the divan, walked with me to a 
small house in the neighborhood which was reserved for the use of 
travelers. 

There were very few Armenians in Sileh, the population being 
made up almost entirely of the followers of the Prophet. The an- 
cient city is nearly a mibfrom the present site, and tradition tells us 
that it was built upon the so-called mound of Semiramis. 1 found 
the castle in a very dilapidated state, the wall round it bore signs of 
having been constructed from the ruins of some very ancient edi- 
fice; here and there were heavy blocks of marble and other debris 
which had been let into the sides of the iuclosure. 

According to the inhabitants, there is a secret passage leading 
from the citadel to a small square several hundred yards below the 
hill; this is very likely the case, for although now a third-rate town, 
Sileh was once a city of considerable military importance. 

While 1 was looking at the antiquities, Osman had been engaged in 
buying some tea and sugar, the supply which 1 had brought from 
Constantinople being almost entirely exhausted, the tea and sugar 
having gone more rapidly than the other provisions. On my remark- 
ing this to Radford, I was informed that Osman had a sweet tooth, 
and had declared that tea was good, for his stomach. 

1 called the Turk to my side. 

" Osman," 1 said, " you have nearly finished my tea and sugar. 
What is the meaning of it?" 

M Effendi, 1 like tea, 1 like sugar; but what 1 like most of all is 
to hear my lord's lioerality praised. Whenever 1 am drinking tea, 
and the village people see me putting much sugar in my glass, they 
honor me. In this manner they honor my lord." 

" 1 should like to be honored in some other way for the future," 

* Whilst uniting these lines I have come across some verses written by a 
bishop who calls himself a Cnristian, and an answer to them by an American 
writer. The bishop seems to have forgotten that his mission is one of peace. 
His verses will be found in Appendix XI. 



01S T HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 103 



1 observed; " and Radford tells me that you are always praying in- 
stead of saddling the baggage-horses." 

" Quite true, sir," remarked Radford, who gathered from my gest- 
ures what the conversation was about. " Quite true; ^ he has worn 
oft the nap of my new great-coat a-praying on it. He is always on 
his knees whenever there is some work to do." 

" Now, for the future, Osman," I continued, " should 1 give or- 
ders to commence loading the animals at daybreak, you must get up 
two hours before sunrise: there will be then ample time for your 
devotions. In the meantime, when you pi ay, you are to kneel on 
your own jacket, and not on Radford's." 

"Is my brother angry?" said the Turk, pointing to his fellow- 
servant. 

"Yes." 

" Well, l*will not offend him any more." 

And shaking hands with the Englishman, Osman manifested his 
friendship by borrowing a little tobacco. 

On leaving SilehZela, we rode by numerous gardens, planted with 
all kinds of fruit-trees, and inclosed by high walls built for the 
most part of dried mud. The road then continued through a series 
of vast circular basins, each from six to seven miles in diameter, and 
similar to the one which surrounded the town. The walls of these 
basins were formed of many-colored sand-hills. The plains below 
were sowed with every kmd of grain. 

We passed Tartars on their way to Sileh Zela, the women walking 
along the road, and the lazy husbands on horseback, riding in front 
of their wives. 

Turcoman and Circassian villages abound throughout this dis- 
trict. The inhabitants were eager to hear about the war. When the 
Russians drove the Circassians from the Caucasus, the Sultan gave 
the exiles land in Anatolia. The wild mountaineers thirst, for the 
opportunity of revenging tnemselves upon the Muscovites. 

We left the corn-growing country behind us, and emerged upon a 
plain thickly planted with" tobacco. On one side of the track the 
mountains were covered with vines, on the others were many-colored 
sand-hills. 

Presently a wonderful phenomenon presented itself to us. A 
thick, black cloud, which all the morning had hung above a mount- 
ain-top, burst over our heads, and then being gradually wafted on- 
ward, it poured down its waters on the sand-hills. The sun, which 
was shining brightly, foimed a magnificent rainbow — the glorious 
orb joined earth to sky, its matchless coloring lit up the whole of 
the firmament. 

The waters dashed down the sides of the hills. The (orient bore 
with it a million particles of colored sand. In a moment, the rivu- 
lets at our feet ran white, red, and then crimson. The thunder roared 
in the distance. A flash of lightning streaked the horzon with gold. 

The sun was setting ere we reached our halting-place, and as we 
rode up the main street of the village of .Bazar, our horses had to 
wade through about three feet of water— the result of the recent 
storm. 1 obtained quarters for the night in a small but clean wooden 
house belonging to a Turkish gentleman. He was formerly an 
officer in the army, and had been employed at Ears during the siege. 



104 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR'. 



"Pasha Williams proved himself lo be a great man," observed 
my host. V He was always busy, and not like other Pashas, who 
spend their lives in the harem. Ho went out at all hours of the night 
to inspect the fortifications. There was another Englishman with 
him — a youngman of fair complexion, but with a heart like a lion." 

" Teesdale?" I observed. 

" Yes, that was his name. The hearts of our poor Osmanlis were 
cheered when they saw this young Englishman sharing all their pri- 
vations, never grumbling, and always cheerful. If the war breaks 
out again, God grant that you may send us many more officers. Is 
Pasha Williams still alive?" 

"Yes." 

V Is he a very great man in yOur country?" 
"Yes." 

" You English are a wonderful nation," continued my host. 
" You reward the Pashas who are brave anrl skillful. In our coun- 
trv, if a captain has a relation in the harem of the grand vizier, the 
officer is sure to rise to high command; but with you a man must 
have merit to succeed." 



CHAPTER XXII. 

It is only a few hours' march from Bazar lo Tokat, the track 
running parallel to the river of the same name. There are many 
villages by the side of the stream. The valley widens and then nar- 
rows again as we proceed toward the town. Tokat at last lies before 
us. It is a long, straggling city, and on the left bank of the river. 

We are met by a Zaptieh. He conducted meioa house set apart 
for travelers. Shortly afterward 1 received a visit from the Cai- 
macan (governor). This official was an active, bustliug .little man, 
and much more energetic than any of the governors 1 had previously 
met. 

An order had arrived for him to send 1,000 men immediately to 
Samsoun. The battalion would march the following morning at 
daybreak, lie proposed that I should go and see the start. 

An engineer now called, a Pole by birth, but a naturalized En- 
glishman. He was engaged in making a road from Tokat to Sivas; 
he had been in Tokat five year3, and the work was not half com- 
pleted. Indeed, judging by the system adopted lor the construction 
of public works in Anatolia, it will be a wonder if the road is ever 
finished. 

According to the engineer, Tokat has a population of 25,000 in- 
habitants. Of these there are 8000 men who should each work four 
days a year at the construction of the road. 

" It is a pitiable sight," continued the Pole. " The Zapfiehs are 
ordered t<> bring the people. A rich inhabitant bribes the gendarmes; 
they Jeave him and seize some impecunious individual. The latter 
is brought to me, and 1 tell the fellow to commence digging. The 
man digs so long as 1 am in sip lit, but the moment my back is 
turned, down goes the shovel, and he lights a cigarette. The result 
is that I have been here five years, and only five miles of road are 
finished." 

The engineer complained of the want of funds in the public chest. 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



105 



His pay was only £10 per month, and it was never paid punctually. 
Meantime, the authorities had discharged several engineers in their 
employ, on the ground that every piastre in the treasury was re- 
quired for the maintenance of the troops. 

There were several Armenian schools in Tokat, and the Turks and 
Christians got on very well together. However, the Caimacan was 
of opinion that not much reliance could be placed upon the Greeks, 
i.e., in the event of a war between Turkey and Russia. 

" They are very cunning," remarked the governor. " They will 
not declare themselves at once, but will wait a liitle^ and hang back 
to see which side is the strongest. They still dieam of ihe old Greek 
Empire, and think that some day Constantinople will be a Greek 
capital. This is not very likely to happen," he continued. "If 
Russia were to conquer us, and to take Constantinople, she would 
not be willing to hand it over to the Greeks. What Russia takes she 
keeps. Look at the Caucasus. Look at the Crimea. Look at 
Khiva, Tashkent, and Samarcand. Some day she will try and con- 
quer India, and what shall you do then?" 

u Probably take our Indian troops, and, joining with the Afghans, 
and inhabitants ot Kashgar, drive Russia out ot Central Asia," 1 re- 
marked. 

" That is easier said than done," said the governor. " But, talk- 
ing of the natives ot India, is it true, as 1 have read in our news- 
papers, that many Mussulmans in India have petitioned your queen 
to help the Sub an?" 

" Yes," I replied, " I believe so." 

" Then why does she not oblige them? Youi interests are bound 
up with our interests. We do not wish to lose Constantinople. It 
would be our death-blow, it would be your death-blow if the Black 
Sea belonged solely to Russia, for her ships could remain there in 
perfect safety, and, running out at any moment, might attack 3^our 
commerce in the Mediterranean." 

"There are a great many old soldiers in Tokat," observed the 
engineer, "men who fought in the Crimea. They have asked me 
if there is any chance of England joining Turkey, and are longing 
to serve, with English pay and English rations." 

" The men who leave to-morrow go without any pay," said the 
Caimacan, "but they march cheerfully. We shall have to fight it 
out to the end," he continued ; " if Russia does not destroy Turkey, 
Turkey must destroy Russia! I will sell my watch and everything 
1 have in the world to raise funds for the War. We must all do the 
same." 

Whilst we were conversing, an order arrived for the Caimacan 
to supply all the Armenians and Greeks in Tokat with fire-arms, 
and have them instructed in drill. 

" 1 must go," he observed, and, rising from the divan, he left me 
alone with the engineer. 

" He is a most energetic man," said the Pole, pointing 1o the re- 
treating figure of the Caimacan. " It Turkey had more governors 
like him, she would not be reduced to her present straits. The great 
mistake in this country is the continual change of Caimacans. 
When we have a good governor. w T e never keep him for more than, 
six months; Ihe present man nas been here about that time, he does 



106 OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



not rob the people, and is thoroughly honest; we shall probably soon 
lose him." 

Several of the principal persons in the town now came to call upon 
me; amongst others, a certain Osman Bey, a Circassian, and the 
chief ot a large band which had emigrated from the Caucasus a few 
years previous. He was dressed in the Circassian style, with a 
sheepskin coat, tightly buckled round his waist, embroidered leather 
trousers and high boots; a black Astrakhan cap surmounted his 
bronzed features. He was a fine, tall fellow, and immensely popu- 
lar with the inhabitants of Tokat. 

After conversing for a little while about my journey, and the state 
of the roads between Tokat and Erzeroum, he proposed that I should 
accompany him to his house, drink tea there, and be introduced to 
his relatives. The engineer came with us. After walking through 
some lanes, where the mud reached considerably above my ankles, 
we arrived before a square-built, whitewashed house. A solid, 
wooden door, absolutely possessing a knocker—an article of luxury 
not known in Tokat, save to the richer inhabitants, gave admission 
to a small courtyard. This, in its turn, led to the apartments re- 
served for Osman Bey and the members of his family. 

He had sent a servant on before, to say that he was on his way. 

About fifteen Circassian gentlemen were seated around the room. 

44 We Circassians have heard a great deal of your nation," said 
Osman Be} r , as he motioned to me to take a seat. 44 We once 
thought that England was going to help us to drive the Russians out 
of our country. However, you did not come; they outnumbered 
us, and they had artillery opposed to our flint guns. What could 
we do. We resisted as long as possible, and then, sooner than be 
slaves, came here." 

44 If there is a war, shall you all go to the front?" 1 inquired. 

44 Yes, every able-bodied man amoDgst us. We do not pay any 
taxes to the Sultan; he gave us our land, and we owe him a debt of 
gratitude. Not only that," continued the speaker, and at the same 
time drawing a long, keen knife from his sash, and flipping his nail 
against the blade, 44 but we shall have an opportunity of culting a 
few Muscovite throats!" 

44 1 hope you will not kill the women and children!" 1 observed. 
*' Nobody cares about the men; but in Europe we have a horror ot 
people who massacre women and children." 

44 We shall do as the Russians do, and as they have always done," 
observed my host, grimly. 44 They have killed our old men, have 
cut to pieces pregnant women, and have tossed the children on the 
bayonets, whilst the soldiers have satisfied their lust upon our wives, 
and burned them to death afterward!* Well, if they do the same 
thing now, we shall lollow the example set us, and shall continue 
doing so, until England or some other power interferes to save our 
countrymen from the devilish tyranny of these Muscovite butchers. 

* This statement, coming from a Circassian, may be deemed by some peo- 
ple in England, like the Right Hon. Robert Lowe, M.P., who believes that 
Russia is the protector of the unprotected, and the refuge of those who have 
no other refuge, as hardly worthy of credence. Unfortunately for humanity 
it is confirmed, so far as the massacre of pregnant women and of children is 
concerned, by the official report of a British Consul. See Appendix VII. 



02s HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MITsTOR. 



10? 



Let me give you one instance of their cruelty. A few years ago the 
Russian authorities informed the Circassians that whoever wished 
might leave the imperial dominions and go elsewhere. This was 
probably done to discover what natives were well disposed or other- 
wise to the Russian rule. There was no real intention on the part 
of the government to allow any of its subjects to pass the frontier. 
Seven hundred families belonging to some villages near the town of 
Labinsky thought that it was a bona fide permission. Leaving their 
district, they started for the Turkish frontier. A short time after- 
ward they were surrounded by Russian troops, cavalry and artillery, 
and ordered to return. The fugitives said that they had pei mission 
to leave Russia. The officer in command insisted that they should 
at once retrace their steps. The command was not immediately 
obeyed, tbe troops fired at the villagers, and then charged them with, 
the bayonet; only thirteen Mohammedans survived to tell the tale. 
All the rest, men, women, and children at the breast, were cut to 
pieces." 

" Are these assertions really true?" 1 said to another Circassian. 

V We know it, to our cost," he replied. " This is only one in- 
stance which Osman Bey has just given you, and which you have 
written down in your note-book; but there are many more equally 
horrible. The Russians have made a hell of our beautiful country. 
They are worse than the fiend himself . " 

"Do your country-people like the Russians?" said Osman Bey. 

" Some do," 1 replied; " but they do not believe in Ihese horrible 
cruelties which you have been just relating to ine." 

" Well, then, tell them to travel through our country — that is, if 
the Russians will let them — to go to our villages and talk to the 
country people; but not in the presence of Russians, as the poor suf- 
ferers would be afraid to speak, knowing well the fate which would 
await them, when their questioners had departed. Let any of the 
people of Eugland, who now sympathize with Russia, do this, and 
then let them form an opinion about the merits of the case." 

" When you return to your own country will you publish what I 
have said to you?" said Osman Bey. 

" Yes," I said, " every line. Listen to what 1 hare written, so 
that there may be no error." 

And 1 translated to him my notes, the engineer aiding me in the 
task. 

" Are all your countrymen of one mind in their hatred of the Rus- 
sians?" 1 inquired. 

" Unfortunately, no," said Osman Bey. '** The authorities have 
been clever enough to sow the seeds of dissension amongst our ranks. 
For example, they will often give the post of ' stanishna ' (a local 
authority) in the different villages to a Circassion of a low degree. 
This gives him authority over our nobles. Ill-feeling is thus created 
between the two classes; it is utilized by the Russians." 

" One of our number is doing his best to avenge himself On the 
Muscovites," said another of the party, a good-looking young fel- 
low, apparently about twenty years old, and Osman Bey's nephew. 
" His name is Yonn bek; he has taken up his abode in the Farsa 
Shaguash mountain, near Ekaterinograd, and kills the Russians 
whenever he can meet them. He has been pursued, but he has de~ 



108 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



pots in the mountain where he keeps provisions, and the Russians 
have never been able to tiace him io his lair. The authorises have 
offered Yonn Bek a great many gold imperials if he would leave the 
country, as the man has done sO much mischief there; hut Yonn 
declines, and says that if the Russians have not been able to capture 
him in eight years, and he has been able to do them so much dam- 
age, what will not happen to the foe when the war breaks out and 
he is joined by other men like himself?" 



CHAPTER XX11T. 

The following morning the servant of the house in which 1 was 
lodging entered the room and observed that a Zaptieh corporal, or 
Onbashee, who had escorted us into the town on. the day of my ar- 
rival, wished to see me. 

" Tell him to come in," 1 said. In a few minutes the Onbashee 
opened the door; approaching me, he took from his waistcoat five 
piastres, and placed them in the palm of his hand. 

" What is this for?" I inquired. 

" Osman!" auswered the Onbashee, with a sigh. 

" Osman! What has he been doing?" 

*' Osman gave them to me, Eftendi; but you said that he was to 
give me half a mediidi— he has kept the difference for himself!" 

It now flashed across my mind that the previous evening I had 
desired Osuian to give the corporal halt a medjidi as a baksheesh, 
and that 1 had told him to do so in the presence of the servant of the 
house. The latter had informed the Onbashee. Osman, .who 
wi hed to appropriate to himself the difference between five piastres 
and the larger coin, was thus detected. 

1 sent for the culprit. He was aware that his knavery had been 
discovered. Instead of coming to me with his usual assertion that 
he was the most industrious man in the w^orld, he stood in the 
corner of the room, an object pi derision to the Onbashee, who was 
regretting the loss of his half medjidi, and to the servant of the 
house, who had been the means of disclosing Osman's dishonesty. 

Addressiug the guilty man, 1 asked him why he had not given the 
Zaptieh the halt medjidi, and added that the previous evening, 
when he had told me of the expenses of the day, lie hajd charged me 
with that sum. 

Osman had hardly anything to say for himself. Presently he 
stammered out something about his only having five piastres in his 
pocket. 

" That is a lie. Effendi!" here interrupted the Onbashee. "He 
had many coins in his hand when he gave me the five piastres." 

1 at once made up my mind to get rid of Osman. Vankoviteh's 
remarks about the Turk's dishonesiy also recurred to memory. 
Osman was*, undoubtedly a rogue; I determined to procure another 
servant. 

" OHnan," 1 said, " you have robbed a Mohammedan, a follower 
of Islam, and one of your own religion. If you had confined your- 
self to robbing me I could have understood it. for you might have 
reasoned to yourself as follows: ' The Effendi is a giaour, and there 



ON HORSEBACK: THROtlGft ASIA MINOR. 109 



is gold in bis purse.' But to rob a brother. Mohammedan, and a 
poor man; to rob him ot the pittance which 1 had given him— this 
1 can only understand by the assumption that you are a greater 
scoundrel than 1 thought you were! l'ou are no longer my servant, 
lou darken the threshold no longer!" 
" I am innocent, Efiendi!" cried Osman. 

" Well, prove youi innocence, and 1 will say no more about the 
matter." 

" Efiendi, the Onbashee is a liar!" 

" Very likely, but then the servant must be a liar as well, and he 
saw you give the five piastres to the corporal. How what interest 
has the servant in telling a lie about the matter?" 

This was too much for the delinquent; lowering his eyes, he 
walked out ot the room, through a long row ot servants, who had 
come from (he neighboring houses to heai me administer justice. 

The sentence appeared to give great satisfaction to the Onbasb.ee. 

" May 1 put Osman in prison?" he eagerly inquired. 

" I have no authority on such matters," 1 replied. 

" No, Efiendi, but the Caimacan likes you, and if you asked him 
to do so, he would put Osman in prison. Just a day or so, Efiendi! 
Please do!" 

" Why do you want to put him in jail?" I asked. 

" Because, if he is once shut up, we will not let him out till he 
has returned me the difference between your present and ihe five 
piastres." 

" No," I said; " here is the difference," at the same time giving 
him a small sum of money. " But now go and inquire in the town 
for a man who wants a situation, as I want a servant immediately." 

Just tht-n a sergeant entered the room. He brought word from the 
Caimacan that he was waiting lor me, and that the battalion would 
leave Tokat in about half an hour. 

1 at once rode to the barracks. Tbey consisted of two old khans, 
which surrounded a court -yard, the khans being used as barracks 
when there were troops in Tokat, and at other times of the year as 
lodgings tor wayfarers. The streets leading to the khans were 
lined with women, muffled up in long while sheets, and weeping 
piteously. The battalion was drawn up in two ranks inside the 
court-yard. The men were standing at ease, and engaued in talking 
to their numerous friends and relatives. Immense enthusiasm pre- 
vailed amidst the bystanders. Numbers of volunteers were offering 
their services. 

" Look at these men, sir," observed Radford, who was riding be- 
hind me; " they do not look as if they liked going as soldiers; bless 
my heart alive, if they ain't a-crying!" 

1 glanced in the direction he was pointing, and saw thirty or forty 
men with most woebegone faces, and some of them in tears. 

'* Why are you crying?" 1 said to one of then party. " Are you 
afraid of being killed?" 

" No, Eft'endi, we want to co with our bribers in the battalion, 
and to fight for their side, but the major will not take us, he says that 
his battalion is complete. Do ask him to let us accompany him! 
Oui hearts are full of sorrow at being left behind." 

A captain in the regiment, a short, podgy-looking man, with very 



110 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



fat cheeks, now came to them, and tried to console the volunteers by 
saying that their turn would come soon, and that they should go 
with the next battalion. 

It was a curious spectacle: the soldiers dressed inaneat dark blue 
serge uniform, and with theii feet in sandals, surrounded by little 
knots of relatives clad in every kind ot attire that can well be im- 
agined; fathers embracing sons, brothers rubbing cheeks with 
brothers, and the sergeant and corporals vainly endeavoring to get 
their men into some sort of order; the fat captain in the background 
engaged in trying to console the rejected volunteers; and the younger 
portion of the crowd looking inquisitively at the new Martini- Pea- 
body rifles which had only arrived from Samsoun the previous even- 
ing. Some of the soldiery were showing how quick their rifles could 
be loaded and fired. The rapidity of the system created great aston- 
ishment amidst tlie crowd. 

" The giaours come from the country where these guns are made," 
said a bystander, pointing to Radford and myself. 

" The giaours have more brain than we have," said another. 

" If they help u«, we shall eat the Russians!" exclaimed a third. 
We became the object of still more curiosity when a sergeant, com- 
ing to me, said that the Caimacan was in the major's room, drink- 
ing coffee, and hoped that 1 would join him there. 

"He is going to drink coffee with the governor — he is a great 
man!" said one of the bystanders, borne ot the volunteers, rushing 
up, entreated me to intercede with the Caimacan, and perhaps he 
could induce the major of the battalion to take them with him to 
the war. 

The major and several other officers were squatted on a carpet in 
a small and rather dirty room overlooking the court-yard. The 
Caimacan was seated on a chair, a dervish sat by his side. The 
iatter individual was a portly-looking man, wrapped up in a roll of 
brown cloth, and with a gigantic sugar-loaf hat on his head. The 
hat was made of gray cloth, and would have made the fortune of 
the leader of a nigger band. Several more officers now came into 
the room, amongst others the fat captain. They each in turn bent 
before the dervish, who placed his hands above their heads and pro- 
nounced some sort of blessing. 

A Circassian entered the building. He presently informed us that 
five thousand of his nation, who resided in the neighborhood of 
Tokat, had expressed a wish to go to the seat of war, and to bring 
with them their own horses and arms. 

By this time the sergeants had succeeded in arranging their men 
in the ranks, and the major going down stairs, followed by the 
Imaum or chaplain of theregiment, the latternddressed the battalion. 
The lmaum was attired in a lieutenant's uniform, but with a green 
turban round the fez, as a distinctive mark of his profession. 

The chaplain's discourse was not a long one. It was listened to 
with great attention by the populace. When he had finished, the 
ranks were a^ain broken by a crowd of eager, excited Mussulmans, 
who rushed up to embrace their friends. 

As 1 was descending 7 the steps, my attention was called to a man 
who was seated on the stair. He was sobbing like a child; at the 
same time striking his chest with the palms of his hands. 



02s HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



Ill 



" What is the matter?" 1 inquired. 

On his looking up, 1 recognized the muleteer whom 1 had hired 
to bring my baggage from Sileh Zela to Tokat. The man on seeing 
me sprung" to* his feet, then throwing himself on the ground, he 
began to embrace my legs, at the same time kissing my boots. 

it appeared that several baggage animals were required for the bat- 
talion which was about to march. The Zaptiehs of Tokat had 
pressed the muleteer into their service, and had taken his mules. 

" Do speak for me, Effendi!" he said. " They will take me to 
Kars. 1 shall be a ruined man. And my wife expects me home- 
she is in a delicate state of health; 1 shall shortly be a father." 

" It is useless," said the Caimacan, who overheaid his prayers. 
" We must have baggage animals," he continued; " you will not be 
taken to Kars, only to Samsoun; you will be paid for the hire of 
your animals. Dry your eyes, and do not block up the steps. 

" It is a great pity, and 1 am very sorry for these poor fellows," 
observed the Caimacan, turning to me; " but what can we do? It 
is war time, or very soon will be so; some of us must suffer. 

" Listen to those poor women there," he continued, as we rode 
through the gate, preceded by the brass band of the regiment play- 
ing a melancnoty march. A deep wail could be heard even above 
the noise of the instruments. The wives, mothers, and other female 
relatives of the soldiers had not been permitted to enter the barracks ; 
but from an early hour they had taken up a position along the 
streets. The bitter cry, which was joined in by hundreds of voices, 
announced to the people in the very outskirts of the town that the 
battalion was on the march. 

Presently the band cease<% playing; and the old major, his long 
white beard streaming in the wind, began singing the words: " God 
is great. There is but one God, the God, and there is but one 
Prophet, the Prophet, and he is the Prophet of God." 

The soldiers took up the strain, ten thousand bystanders joined 
in the verse— it even silenced the women's wail— and resounded 
along the banks of the river. Here taken up by some people on the 
ruined citadel, the words were re-echoed back to us; there wafted 
by the breeze to an adjacent hamlet, the peasantry swelled the chorus. 
The standard of the baUalion, with the crescent embroidered on a 
green border, was raised high in the air, and several of the crowd, 
rushing up to the major, implored him to take them in his ranks. 

It was a striking scene — these weeping women in their shroud- 
like dresses; the many-colored garments of the men; the excited 
soldiery — the still more excited major; and the immense religious 
enthusiasm. 

Snow-capped mountains barred the way before us, and the river, 
its bank set fast with ice and hoar-frost, glittered in the distance, 
and reflected the rays of the midday sun. 

Large stacks of wood had been piled up near the stream. The 
timber had been cut in the forests above the town, and been floated 
down the river to Tokat. It is chiefly used tor smelting copper, the 
government having some smelting works in the neighborhood. Ac- 
cording to my informant, they were established thirty years ago by 
a German ; after his decease they had been bought by the Turkish 
authorties. 



112 ON HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOK. 



The Caimacan thought that he had accompanied the battalion far 
enough. Drawing a little on one side, we let the soldiers pass us. 
The siandaid-bearer waved his flag, the old major saluted by lower- 
ing the point ot his sword as he rode past, and with tha.words: " Go 
in safety, God be with you. We shall meet in Erzeroum," we 

.P$$e&l' y>.".. ,> ..,•,< : v'-v'j? ';U>titgl' 7TSV hfoO^tf^* >V 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Soon afterward Imet Osman Bey, my acquaintance of the previous 
day. He was on the point of leaving for a Circassian hamlet in the 
neighborhood. Jt appeared that a feud had arisen between the people 
of this village and another one in its vicinity, the Bey was going 
there to calm, if possible, the angry feelings of the inhabitants. 

He remarked that in the event of war breaking out between Tur- 
key and Russia he should go to the Caucasus. 

" VVill there be a great rising in that country?" 1 inquired. 

" It is very doubtful," was the answer; " our people have iisen 
several times,* no foreign power has- assisted us, ana" the result is 
that we have been decimated by our enemy. My countrymen are 
afraid of doing anything, unless they feel certain that they will be 
aided in their attempt. If England were to help us," he continued, 
" and could only capture one Russian port on the Black Sea, the 
Circassians would nave confidence, and there would be a rising 
throughout the length and breadth of our land." 

On returning to my house.l found the Zaptieh who had been de- 
frauded by my late servant. He was awaiting me with a candidate 
for Os man's place. ^ 

" Effendi, 1 have brought you a wonderful fellow," said the gen- 
darme; " if you send him with a message, he will fly; he will guard 
your purse more carefully than his own." 

It appeared that the wonderful man's name was Mohammed; he 
was a redit soldier. His battalion would march in the course of a 
week or so to Erzeroum. To avoid going with the troops he pro- 
posed that he should engage himself as my servant until we reached 
that town, and then he could join his battalion. 

" But will your commanding officer give you leave to accompany 
me?" 1 inquired. 

" It the Effendi asks him," interrupted the Zaptieh. 

Mohammed was apparently not above twenty-five years of age. 
He had a pleasant, frank expression, and 1 determined to engage 
him, that is, if 1 could obtain the sanction of his captain. 

1 now went to see this officer. He at once agreed to the proposal; 
that is, if 1 would pledge myself to give up Mohammed at Erze- 
roum. 

' ■ How can 1 pledge myself?" 1 remarked; " he may run away on 
the road." 

" That is true," said the officer; " but he is a straightforward fel- 
low—he will not do so. It 1 had the power, 1 would let you take 
him as servant for all the time that you remain in the country; but 
1 have no authority to do this, I am merely a cap'ain." 



* For statement made by Circassians on this subject, see Appendix X. 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



113 



The matter was settled. Returning to my house, I informed the 
man ot his officer's consent. 

Mohammed was to have the same wages as Osman, and as he had 
a horsH of his own, which he wished to t;ike to Erztroum, 1 was to 
pay for the forage of the animal, and could make use of him for the 
baggage. This would be very useful; hitherto 1 had been obliged 
to hire a horse, owing to my loss of Obadiah. Up to this time 1 had 
been traveling on the postal track. It was possible to find horses. 
After leaving^Sivas, the next town 1 should reach, there would be no 
more postal-stations; 1 should then have to trust to my being able to 
hire animals from the peasantry, or be obliged to purchase another 
horse. 

" 1 have a wife," said Mohammed; " will my lord give me a little 
money?" 

" How much do you want?" 
" Two liras." 

" 1 wonder if he will bolt with the money, like the Tartar I en- 
gaged last winter in Orenburg?" This idea at once occurred to my 
minu. On second thoughts, 1 remembered that he was well known 
to the Zaptieh, and to many of the other inhabitants of Tokat; so I 
acceded to his request. 

An Aimenian doctor called to see me. He had been educated in 
the States, and spoke English with a most unmistakable "Yankee 
drawl. 

" How is business here?" I inquired. 

" Very flat," said the medical gentleman; " the people do not put 
much faith in doctors, that is, until they are really ill, and then we 
have a busy time of it. They pill themselves," he continued, " and 
go in for uerbs and old women's remedies; they get them cheap and 
grudge the money which they must pay to a regular practitioner; 

'.' You do not look very well," said the doctor. 

" Thank you, there is not much tbe matter." 1 replied. The fact 
was that 1 had a splitting headache, owing to the charcoal pan or 
mungo which warmed the apartment. The gas from the charcoal 
being lighter than the air, fills the upp'er part of the room. The 
Turks and Armenians generally squat on the floor. They do not 
feel tlie effects ot the fumes so much as a person who is seated on 
the divan. 

Another Armenian now paid me a visit. He was the telegraph 
inspector in Tokat, and he informed us that orders had just been 
sent from Constantinople to buy up all the available horses in this 
neighborhood. 

" Things look warlike," he continued, " and the doctor," point- 
ing to his compatriot, "will have plenty of practice before bng. 
The whole Christian population is to be armed. It is clear that the 
government, has not much faith in the Conference, and is doin.u- its 
best to prepare for war." 

The Armenians in Tokat complained of the slack way in which 
justice was administered throiiirhout that district. Accoiding to the 
doctor, it a man committed a crime, and could get away for a year 
or two, and then return to his home, he would not be pursued by 
the authorities; that is, unless the aggrieved parties made a formal 
complaint. 



114 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" "Yes," said another visitor, " three months ago fifty-four male- 
factors escaped from the prison. Forty of them shortly afterward 
surrendered; the rest made their way to the mountains/ Their ring- 
leader, who is a murderer, has been recently seen in Tokal; no one 
has cared to arrest him." 

Four young Turks entered the room; the eldest could not have 
been more than three-and-twenty. 

" What do you want?" 1 inquired. 

" We do not wish to go to the war," replied one of them, who 
took upon himself to be spokesman of the party. 
" Why not?" 

" Because we are married men, and have children." 
" 1 cannot help you. " 

'\Yes, Effendi, you can; you might speak to the Caimacau, and 
he could free us from military service. " 

" His duty is to send you to the front," observed the doctor. 

" Yes, but he evidently 1 fives the Frank, for we saw them riding 
together, and if the Effendi would only ask him, he could not be so 
inhospitable as to decline." 

I was a little annoyed at this remark, and observed: 

" 1 certainly shall not ask for anything of the kind. Other people 
who have wives and children are obliged to go, then why not you?" 

"But they did not love their wives so much as we love ours," 
persisted the man. 

The Caimacau now called.. Upon his arrival the four visitors, 
after groveling almost in the dust before him, took their departure. 

" What did they want?" said the governor. 

I told him. 

"It is very unpatriotic of them," he observed. " The cunning 
little dogs, to ask you to intercede on their behalf! But they shall 
all go with the next battalion!" 

I was evidently destined to have a succession of visitors on that 
afternoon, for no sooner had the Caimacan gone, than another official 
arrived. He at once commenced a conversation by saying that he 
had been employed in collecting the redif soldiery from the different 
villages in the neighborhood, and had also started a subscription 
amongst the wealthier inhabitants to provide the men with warm 
shirts. 

" You have acted very kindly, and doubtless with the best mo- 
tives," 1 remarked. " Your reward will be in heaven." 

"Yes," said the man, who did not seem quite to relish the idea 
of his reward being so indefinitely postponed; " but the Effendi is 
going to Sivas?" 

" Yes." 

" He will see the Pasha there?" 
" Very likely." 

" Then he will tell the Pasha of my great merits, and ask him to 
give me some higher employment?" 

" If it pleases Allah, you will receive some higher post," 1 piously 
observed. " Our destinies are in His hand." 

" Yes," the man said, " so they are. But for all that, I wish that 
you would speak to the Pasha for me." 

From the two examples 1 have here cited, it will readily be seen 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH A ST A MIJs OR. 115 



that a system of promotion through tavoritism is very deeply rooted 
amidst the Turks. 1 had been seen riding with the Caimacan. It 
was thought that 1 might see the Pasha at Silas — this was quite 
sufficient to induce some o± the inhabitants of Tokat to believe that 
any request that 1 might make to the Pasha or Caimacan would 
necessarily be granted. 

'* It was fortunate, " here remarked the engineer, " that you told 
Osman to give the baksheesh to a corporal, and that a Turkish serv- 
ant heard you give the order. If the fellow had been a Christian, 
the servant would never have taken the trouble to mention it to him. 
But the fact of the corporal being a co-religionist was too much lor 
the servant. It has enabled you to detect the fraud. 

" This is one of the worst features of the country," he continued. 
" The Turks will not do anything to aid a Christian at the ex- 
pense of a Mohammedan, even if the Mohammedan is most clearly 
in the wrong. And it is much the same with the Christians in re- 
spect to their co-religionists. The result is that the Armenians and 
Turks do not pull well together. The law, too, is faulty, and re- 
quires amendment. 

" Let me give you an example," continued Mr. Gasparini, " and 
one which has come immediately under my notice, for it affected my 
own servant. It sounds like a romance, but, alas! it is too true! My 
servant's came is Kara-el Mermenk Ovooloo. He is an Armenian; 
his mother died when he was a child; his father remarried, but be- 
haved very badly to his second wife, continually ill-treating her, and 
making his son bring another woman to the house. The lad was 
very fond of his stepmother, who was at that time seiiously ill; at 
last he refused to bring his father's paramour to their home. The 
father beat him severely and apprenticed the lad to his own trade, 
that of a coppersmith. The mother soon afterward died, with an 
anathema on her lips atmer husband's paramour. The latter, strange 
to say, died herselt Ihree weeks afterward. In the meantime, the 
father gave the boy three piastres a week lor his clothes. The lad 
could not clothe himself for that, sum, he left his home and went 
into service. The parent succeeded in Having the boy turned away 
from several situations, but at last 1 took him. Now, only the other 
day, the father went to the Cadi, and swore that his son was in a 
coppersmith's business with himself, and in consequence must pay 
halt the tax on his trade. There is no truth whatever in the state- 
ment, but the father's word was taken, and my servant arrested and 
kept in prison for three days. The sum is only twenty-six piastres, 
1 would gladly pay it myself, but 1 have no money; the government 
will not give me my salary; so here we are at a dead-lock." 



CHAPTER XXY. 

The following morning Mohammed arrived at an early hour, 
bringing with him his horse, a wretched brute to look at; he had 
not a particle of flesh on his bones, and was half blind with one eye. 

" This is my horse, Effendi," said Mohammed, proudly; " is' he 
not a magnificent animal? My having this horse will save the 
Eflendi the expense of hiring or buying another one. I hope that 1 
shall get a baksheesh at Erzeroum," he added. 



116 



0£T HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



44 Of course," I said; "that is, if the brute reaches JErzeroum. 
But it strikes me that you have not been giving him anything to eat 
lately!" 

44 No, Effendi, I was atraid that if he looked too well he would 
have been taken for the use of the troops; but no one will even 
glance at him as he is. He has a wonderiul appetite, and will make 
up for lost time; no one will recognize him, atter he has eaten the 
Eftendi's barley for a day or two; he will soon be fat and strong." 

The road from Tokat to Sivas is a good one tor the first few hours. 
My friend the engineer's work had been very fairly done; our horses 
were able to get over the ground at from five to six miles an hour. 
The track led through a succsssion of hills and valleys. In some 
places the engineer had been obliged to cut the road for several hun- 
dred yards in the solid rock. 

Presently we passed a small Circassian village. Several good- 
looking women, coming to the roadside, offered t hickens and geese 
for sale. One of the Circassians was a very pretty girl, and would 
have carried off tbe palm amidst many European belles. Her face 
was not veiled. There was a great deal of expression in her large, 
dark eyes. They flashed excitedly as she sought to induce me to 
buy her wares. 

"lam tired of chicken," I said; 44 1 should like a little meat." 

<4 There is no meat here," replied the girl. " We ourselves live 
upon bread and eggs; buy some eggs." 

And running back to a house, she brought out about fifty eggs; 
the price being eight pence of our money. 

Now we came to Tchitlik, an Armenian village. Herelhere were 
thirty houses; and as six hours had sped by since we leit Tokat, 1 
determined to halt for the night, the more particularly as Moham- 
med's horse showed unmistakable signs ot fatigue. 

The Armenian in whose house I stopped complained of his Cir- 
cassian neighbors. According to him, they had hazy ideas as to 
the difference between meum and tuum. Several cows belonging to 
villagers had recently disappeared. It was strongly suspected that 
some Circassians were implicated in the robbery. 

The country in the neighborhood was very highly cultivated. 
The farmers' grauaries were full of corn. Hundreds of cows and 
cattle could be seen grazing along the side of the road. 

We arrived at the Tchamlay Bel Mountain. As we were ascend- 
ing a narrow pass which overhung a steep precipice, the guide, a 
Zapti^h, observed that only five days previous a Turk had been 
killed on this very spot. It appeared that there was a band of brig- 
ands in the neighborhood. Five of them had attacked a party of 
four Turkish merchants, who were returning from Sivas with, as it 
was believed, a considerable amount of gold on their persons. Three 
of the Turks ran^away, leaving their companion, who showed fight, 
but was shot down; the brigands had taken from him thirty-five 
liras, besides two horses. An bout later, when tbe news was brought 
to the village, several of the inhabitants turned out on horseback to 
pursue the robbers; it was too late, they had made their escape and 
carried off the booty. 

44 Do not be alarmed," said the guide, as he concluded his story. 
" X am with you; the brigands will be afraid. Look here!" he care- 



OlsT HQESEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIjSTOE. lit 



fully unstrapped a long, single-barreled, flint gun from his saddle 
bow. The barrel was tied on the stock by a piece of string. 

" It is a wonderful gun, " said the guide. " It belonged to my 
grandfather; 1 once shot a deer with it." 

" Was the deer tar off?" I inquired. 

" Very far," was the reply. " So far," pointing to a rock about 
1,000 yards from us. It was clear that however well the guide might 
shoot with his gun, he was equally good with the long-bow. 1 be- 
gan to be a little doubtful about the story he had just told us of the 
brigands. 

We rested for awhile at Yenihan, a large village with 200 houses; 
the population is composed half of Armenians and half of Turks. 
The Caimacan had gone to the mountains in search of some redif 
soldiery. He had experienced considerable difficulty in inducing 
these men to leave their homes, and join the army in the field. 

There was nothing particular to see at Yenihan. Sivas was only 
nine hours distant: 1 determined to make a long march on the fol- 
lowing day, and give our horses a rest in that city. The track was 
good. Ox-carts— the chiet means of transporting baggage in this 
part of Anatolia — have no difficulty in traveling along the ioad to 
the Yeldez Ermak, a rapid stream which is about seventy yards 
wide. It is crossed by a good stone bridge on arches. The river, 
though fordable in the winter, would be impassable in the early 
spring if it were not for the bridge. It is a tributary of the Kizil 
Ermak, and meets that stream about twelve miles S. E. of Sivas. 
The district is hilly, but is highly cultivated. In about four hours 
we reached the Kizil Ermak, a broad, deep river. It is crossed by 
a sione bridge. A road on the opposite bank leads to Divriki. 

We did not cross the bridge, but continued on to Sivas, which lay 
before us, with a background of rising slopes. A citadel, in a ruined 
state, frowned down upon us from the center of the city. 

Sivas, the capital of Armenia Minor, is situated at the head of the 
valley of the Halys of the ancients. Jt is the most important mili- 
tary position in this part of Turkey. It commands the sole route 
which descends with the waters upon the plateau of Asia Minor. 
Sivas is the key to the Peninsula on the Asiatic side; the Turks ought 
to fortify this place, particularly when they are threatened in Asia 
Minor by the Russians. Should the latter succeed in forcing the 
first line of defense, consisting of Kars, Ardahan, and Bayazid, and 
afterward take possession of Erzeroum, there will be no other forti- 
fied town between themselves and Scutari. 

The governor had sent an officer with some Zaptiehs as an escort 
for our party. As we were entering the principal street a servant 
approached us with a tine Arab horse, and said that the Pasha 
hoped 1 would honor him by riding his favorite animal to the quar- 
ters prepared for ray accommodation. It appeared that the Bey in 
Angora had telegraphed to the governor of Sivas about me, hence 
the preparations which nad bt en made. 

1 dismounted from my own quadruped, and mounted the Pasha's 
horse. I now found that the stirrup-leathers, even when let out to 
the last hole, were much too short; 1 was sitting with my knees 
nearly up to my chin. 

The whole population of Sivas had turned out to welcome me to 



118 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



their city. I should have liked to have made my entry in as digni- 
fied a manner as possible. Dignity soon became out of the question. 
The Arab horse, unaccustomed to sixteen stone on his back, began 
to kick. To avoid ignoininiously coming off, 1 was compelled to 
take my feet out of the stirrups, and ride~without these appendages 
to the saddle. 

Luckily the rooms prepared for us were not far distant. On ar- 
riving in a small square, the officers and Zaptiehs halted before a 
small but clean-looking house, which faced the Pasha's residence. 
On the other sides of the square were the prison and the barracks. The 
guard turned out from the last-named building, and presented arms 
as we dismounted. The officer of the escort, taking my hand, led 
me up a staircase to the apartment set aside for my accommodation. 

Soon after our arrival 1 was waited upon by an Italian engineer, 
who was employed at Sivas by the government. He was the only Eu- 
ropean in the city, which contains 7,000 houses; however, there were 
three American missionaries who had been settled in Sivas for sev- 
eral years past with the object of making pioseiytes. 

The Italian was accompanied by an Armenian who spoke French. 
The latter gentleman was very indignant with the Pasha, who had 
shut up the shops belonging to the Christians during tire previous 
week. It appeared that some of the reaif soldiers had pillaged a 
house in the market-place. Several hundred more redifs were ex- 
pected to arrive at Sivas; there were hardly any regular troops to 
keep order. The governor had taken the precaution of closing all 
the shops belonging to Armenians during the stay of the redifs in 
the town. This was a precautionary measure, it had given great 
umbrage to the Christians. My visitor loudly denounced the pro- 
ceeding. 

" Are people ever tortured here?" 1 inquired. 

" No," said the engineer: " the law is, or rather the judges are, 
much too merciful. There has been only one execution during the 
last three years. The culprit was a soldier; his first wife had been 
seduced by a neighbor. He put her aw&y and took another, but at 
the same time said to his neighbor, ' If you seduce this woman I 
will kill you!' The threat "had no effect. The soldier's second 
wife was treated as the former one had been; lie revenged himself 
by killing the adulterer; for this offence he was hanged." 

" Are people ever impaled here?" I inquired, still having the two 
English priests, who wrote some letters to the " Times " about what 
they said they had seen when traveling on the Danube, in my 
mind's eye. 

The Armenian smiled. 

" No, not so bad as that. I believe a robber was impaled eighteen 
years ago; at all events, there is some tradition to that effect." 
Shortly afterwards my visitors left the room. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 
The following day 1 walked across the square to the prison. I 
had not said anything to the authorities in Sivas about m} r intended 
visit to this establishment. I wished to see it under its everyday 
aspect, and at the same time to find out if there were so many Chris* 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 119 



tians prisoners as the Armenians in Yuzgat would have had me 
believe. 

1 found the jailer seated in the doorway; he was smoking a long 
pipe. 

" Can I see the prison?" I asked. 
" Certainly, Effendi." 

Going before me, he led the way to a lofty but narrow room. Here 
there were twenty-seven prisoners, clothed in rags and tatters; each 
man had his wrist fastened to his instep by a light iron chain. No 
jailer slept in this room with the prisoners. They would not have 
had any difficulty in freeing themselves from their manacles had 
they tried to do so. 

" What do you give them to eat?" I inquired. 

"A loaf of bread (about 2 lbs. weight) every day, and some 
water," was the reply. " However, many of them have friends in 
the town, and they are supplied with provisions from outside." 

" What are the prisoners mostly here for?" 1 asked. 

" For robbery and murder. We have a great many Kurds and 
Circassians for horse and cattle stealing. Then there are a few 
Armenians, the latter chiefly for crime connected with money 
matters." 

" How many prisoners are there altogether?" I remarked. 

" One hundred and two." 

" And how many Christians?" 

" Six; all the rest belong to Islam." 

As the population of Sivas is fairly divided between the two sects, 
it was very flattering tor the Armenians that there should be so few 
of their number amongst the prisoners. But, after what 1 had been 
told at Yuzgat, my belief in the truthfulness of their community 
was very much shaken. 

In another part ot the jail there were several prisoners without 
chains. They were walking about in an inclosed court-yard. One 
of thein, an old man, who was very much bowed down by years, 
appealed to us. Taidng my hand he touched it with his forehead, 
and then besought me to speak to the Pasha for him. 

" What is he here for?" 1 inquired. 

" For murder," was the reply ; " and a very cold-blooded murder, 
too. He is a Circassian," continued the jailer, " and the rirnian for 
his execution arrived at Sivas two years ago." 

" Yes," said the old man, in a whining voice, " two years ago! 
and 1 have been kept in suspense ever since. It is an awful thing, 
Effendi — 1 never know from one hour to another that it may not be 
my last!" 

" Why was he not executed?" 1 inquired of the official. 

" Our governor dislikes shedding blood," said the jailer, " and he 
has put the firman away in a drawer." 

"Yes," interrupted the aged murderer: " Issek Pasha is a kind 
man, he will'not put me to death; but he is very old— he may die! 
The governor who will succeed him might find the firman, and order 
me to be hanged!" 

" Well, what do you want me to do?" 1 asked. 

"Only, Effendi, to beseech the Pasha to tear up the firman!" 
cried the old man in imploring tones. " Let me end my years in 



120 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



the prison, for here everyone is kind to me; and let me not be 
strangled at the end of a rope on the scaffold!" 

" Well, I will .speak to lssefc Pasha," 1 said; and with difficulty 
escaping from the murderer, who threw himself on "all fours and 
frantically embraced my legs, 1 walked to the governor's residence. 

He was seated on a sofa at one end ot a large hall, and surrounded 
by attendants with documents awaiting bis signature. He at once 
rose, and motioned to me' to sit down by his side. After the cus- 
tomary salutations, 1 mentioned to him that I had just visited the 
prison and had seen the old murderer. 

" Ah! you have seen him," said the Pasha, gravely, at the same 
time slowly stroking his stomach. " He is in a great state of mind, 
1 believe, lest I should die before he does, and my successor order 
tbe sentence to be put into execution. But he has nothing to fear; 
1 have the firman safe in my drawer, and am trying to arrange the 
matter with tbe relatives ot the murdered man." 

It appears that there is a curious law in Turkey, to the effect that 
if a man has committed a murder, and the order for his execution 
has come from Constantinople, the Pasha whose duty it is to have 
the sentence carried out need not do so, provided that the relations 
of the murdeied person request that the assassin's life may be spared. 

This frequently gives rise to mercenary dealings between the 
assassin and the relatives, for the latter hold his life in their hands. 
If the murderer is rich, he will often have to give up all his property; 
and then if the relations pardon him, the law enacts that he must 
spend fn'teen years in jail. The manner of carrying out this part of 
the, sentence is extremely lax. Should the friends of the prisoner be 
able to scrape together enough money to satisfy the officials con- 
nected with the prison, the murderer will he allowed to escape and 
remnin at large in his native town. 

Later in the day two Armenian gentlemen called upon me. Pres- 
ently one of them remarked that lssek Pasha was immensely rich, 
and that many tales were in circulation about him. 

" Yes," said his companion, " there is a story to the effect that one 
day the Grand Vizier was walking by the side of the Bosphorus with 
the late Sultan Abdul Aziz. A beautiful yacht, the property of 
lssek Pasha, happened to be anchored close to the royal palace. 
' What a magnificent vessel,' said the Sultan. 4 To whom does it 
belong?' The Grand Vizier," continued the Armenian, "did not 
much like the Governor of Sivas, and replied: ' It was the property 
of lssek Pasha, but he has sent it here to be placed at your majesty's 
disposal.' 4 Write and say that 1 accept it with pleasure,' said the 
Sultan. The first notification which lssek Pasha had of this trans- 
action was the receipt ot an official letter from Constantinople in- 
closing the Sultan's thanks for the present. 

44 A subscription had been recently started in the vilayet or 
province of Sivas, with the object of collecting f jnds to enable the 
government to continue the war. Ten thousand liras were collected. 
The Pasha sent the money to the Grand Vizier without exactly stat- 
ing the sources from which it was derived. The minister at once 
ordered the receipt ot this sum, as coming from lssek Pasha, to be 
acknowledged in the public journals; he also desired a secretary to 
write an official letter to the governor to thank him for his large 



OS HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



12! 



donation, and sav in the postscript that when the lest of the people 
in the province of Scvas had sent in their subscriptions, he was to 
forward them immediately to Constantinople Our Pasha did not 
like this letter," continued my informant. " However, what could 
he do? He is an enormously rich man, and, though it went very- 
much against the grain, he sent a fresh 10,000 liraslo the Porte." 

It was clear that the Armenians dirt not love their Pasha: From 
what 1 subsequently heard, their dislike 10 bim originates in the 
fact that he is not amenable to bribes. That he is not a miser can 
be easily shown. Misers are not in the habit of exnending large 
sums of money in the construction of public buildings, lssek 
Pasha, at the time -of my stay in Sivas, was having a large inosque 
built in the town of Erzingan, at his own expense. It was said that 
this building would cost him 40.000 Turkish liras. 

Three American missionaries called; they had been settled for 
several years in Anatolia, and had succeeded in making some con- 
verts amidst the Armenians, but they had not in any one instance 
induced a Mohammedan to change his faith. 

1 inquired if it were true, as stated at Yuzgat, that Armenian boys 
and girls had been carried away from their parents, and shut up in 
lssek Pasha's seraglio. 

'f He! no," said one of my visitors. "At all events, we have 
never heard of anything at all authentic as to such proceedings." 
When 1 mentioned the subject of impalement, and asked if they had 
ever known of anv Christians who had been impaled by the Pasha's 
orders, the three missionaries seemed very much surprised at the 
question, one of them observed that the Turks were by no means a 
cruel race, but that their system of administering justice was a bad 
one. 

1 now learned that the proprietor of the house in which I was liv- 
ing was a shoemaker. The Pasha had hired from him the apart- 
ments which 1 occupied, and which were generally given to travelers. 
Mohammed, when he gave me this piece of information, sug- 
gested that it would be a good opportunity for me to buy him a pair 
of boots. " Such beautiful boots as there are down-stairs," he con- 
tinued, *? the Effendi could get both his feet into one of them. They 
will keep out the cold. If 1 do not' have something to cover my 
slippers 1 shall be frost-bitten before we reach Kars!" 

The proprietor brought the boots for my inspection. He had a 
very Jewish type of countenance, and at once commenced driving a 
bargain with Mohammed. 

"But you told me down-stairs that the boots were 125 piastres, 
and now you ask 165?" observed the Turkish servant, indignantly. 

" They are mv boots, and not yours," said the Armenian, " and I 
shall charge what 1 like for them." 

It appeared that the difference of opinion between Mohammed and 
the shoemaker had arisen owing to the Armenian thinking that he 
would be paid in caime. or bank-notes, and not in silver. Caime, 
in Sivas, had fallen to 165 piastres the lira. It was formerly 125; so 
by the depreciation of the paper currency the shoemaker would lose 
forty piastres on every pair of boots he sold, if purchased from him 
at the present rate of exchange. Many of the Turks were alarmed 
at the constant fall in the value of their paper currency. They ob- 



122 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



jected very strongly to being paid any laige sums in Turkish, bank- 
notes. According to the son of Crispin, only ten years previous the 
government had issued an immense quantity of caime, and had said 
that in the following month of March this paper would be accepted 
in the payment of taxes. 

" March arrived," continued the shoemaker. " we took our caime 
to the tax-collectois. They would not receive it. A vast number 
of the notes then issued are still in the possession of merchants in 
this town, and are valueless." 

When 1 was in Yuzgat Mr. Yankovitch had asked me to intercede 
with lssek Pasha for an Italian lady, the widow of a Pole who had 
died a few months previously in Sivas. The Pole had been the 
chief engineer in the district, and at the time of his death w T as owed 
about £120 by the Turkish authorities. His widow had applied to 
the Pasha for this sum, but was refused payment on the ground 
that she had a son, and that her late husband's father was still liv- 
ing. 

V You must write to your husband's embassador," said the Pasha, 
" and ask him to inform us how the law of succession is applied in 
his country, we will then pay you everything to which you are en- 
titled." 

In the meantime an inhabitant took pity upon the Italian lady, and 
had received her into his harem. Here she was now living, and 
anxiously awaiting a reply from Constantinople to her letter. 
Months passed away, no answer came. The poor woman had ex- 
hausted the small resources which she possessed at the time of her 
husband's death. 



CHAPTER XXYI1. 

1 was thinking of calling upon the Italian lady when Mohammed, 
running into my room, informed me that the governor was actually 
coming in person to call upon me, and that it was a great honor; 
for some time before this the Khedive's treasurer had passed 
through Sivas, and lssek Pasha had not deigned to visit him, but 
had conversed with the Egyptian from the street. 

" See what a great man you are, Effendi!" said the delighted Mo- 
hammed. " The equal of a Pasha too! fortunate is my fate that 1 
have been assigned to you as a servant!'' 

The governor drove up to the door in a vehicle which very much 
resembled a brewer's dray. It was the only carriage of any sort or 
kind in Sivas. This fact alone added considerably to the Pasha's 
importance in that town. He was a corpulent man, and required a 
great deal of pushing at the hands of his two attendants to make him 
pass through the doorway of the carriage; two steps enabled the 
person inside the vehicle to descend to the ground. 

lssek Pasha, turning with great caution, walked backward, his 
two servants holding his feet and guiding them to the steps below. 
After resting a few seconds, to recover from this exertion, the gov- 
ernor slowly mounted the staircase which led to my apartment. 

He now told me that twenty-five years ago the Turks and. Chris- 
tians got on very well together, but ever since the Crimean war the 
Russian government has been actively engaged in tampering with 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 123 



the Armenian subjects of the Porte, and bas been doing its best to 
sow the seeds of disaffection amongst the younger Armenians, by 
promising to make them counts and dukes in the event of their ris- 
ing iD arms against the Porte. 

"If it were not for Russian intrigues," continued the Pasha, 
" we Turks should be very good friends with the Christians. But 
Ignatiefl is very clever, he will not let us alone, and does his best to 
create discord in our ranks." 

I mentioned the case of the Italian lady, and asked him if be 
could not do soratthihu: tor her. 

"It is a very difficult question," replied the Pasha: " her hus- 
band, the engineer, was a refugee Pole, and had lost his nationality 
as a Russian subject. Moreover, his father lives in Russia and may 
claim that the son's property should be administered according to 
Muscovite laws. Then there is an infant child: and, besides this, 
the lady herself is an Italian, and is expecting another baby. We 
have written to Constantinople for instructions, when they arrive 
we shall know what propor!ion ef the husband's property is due to 
the widow. What should you advise to be done in the matter?" 
he inquired. 

" M} r opinion is that jou ought to give the lady sufficient money 
10 pay her expenses as far as Constantinople; for there she can speak 
to her own embassador, and arrange the business more easily than 
it' can be done here." 

" 2\ot a bad idea," said the Pasha. " 1 will advance two months 
of her husbaDd's salary." 

" Gett ! come!" he cried to a crowd of servants who were waiting 
outside, and whilst one attendant handed him a cigarette, and a sec- 
ond some coffee, the Pasha desired a third to tell his treasurer that 
he wished to speak to him immediately. This official now arrived. 

" 1 want two months' wages from the sum owing lo the late en- 
gineer to be brought here at once," said the governor. 

"But no order about the distribution of the property has come 
from Constantinople," replied the treasurer, hesitatingly; "if we 
pay any noney to the widow, we shall be held responsible for it 
ourselves. ' ' 

"No," 1 said, "1 will be responsible for the amount. If the 
authorities at Constantinople say that you have done wrong, 1 will 
repay you the money." 

"Certainly not," said the Pasha; "the responsibility is mine. 
My orders are to be instantly obeyed," he added. 

*' Is the money to be paid in caime or silver?" asked the treasurer. 

"Silrer," was the reply. " When the poor woman's husband 
died, caime was worth as' much as medjidis, but now there is a 
great difference, she must not be the loser. Run!" he cried. 

"On my head be it!" replied the treasurer. In a few minutes he 
returned with a small sack of silver. 

" Will you take it to the lady yourself?" said the governor, hand- 
ing me a bag. " And when do you leave Sivas?" he added. 

" Probably in Ihree days' time." 

"Well," continued the governor, "you will pass by Erzingan, 
where 1 have some property, and 1 hope you will stay in my house. 
Nay, no thanks. It will be doing me an honor, and'l have written 



124 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



for rooms to be prepared. 1 shall send some Zaptiehs with you," 
he added. 

" 1 do not want any. " 

H Nay, but you must have some. You will have terrible hard 
work in crossing the mountains between this and Divriki. There 
are already two or three feet of snow on the track. In some places 
you will require men to dig a way before your party. Icon do not 
know what the cold is in this country," he continued. "1 was 
once nearly frozen to death myself, going from Kars to Erzeroum, 
just about the time of the Crimean war. 1 had 500 soldiers wiih 
me; a snow-storm came on, we lost our way. ]My men strayed in 
different directions. ] had furs, and was able to resist the cold, but 
when we counted up my party the next morning, more than half 
the men were frostbitten, and several had died during the night. 
There is another reason why you require several guides," added the 
governor. " The path over the mountains is covered with snow, 
and I here are deeo chasms and fissures alongside the track — some of 
them are more than a hundred feet deep. The guides carry poles, 
and will sound the palh before your horses, otherwise you will not 
have much chance of reaching Kars. The Conference is over," said 
the Pasha as he rose from ihe divan. "The news has been tele- 
graphed to us from Constantinople." 

" What nas been the result of it?" 1 inquired. 

"Nothing! What else could you expect? Particularly when 
Russia, the cause and origin of all our difficulties, was permiited to 
have a representative at the Conference— and such a representative 
— foi General lgnaiieff is a cunning old fox!" 

Then shaking hands with me— which 1 afterward learned from 
Mohammed was a very great honor — the Pasha waddled down-stairs, 
and drove to his official residence. 

Later in the clay 1 rode to the missionaries' home, a pleasant little 
house situated in the outskirts of the town. On their airival in 
Sivas they had taken an abode from some Armenians, but the latter 
demanded such an exorbitant rent for the house in question that 
the missionaries determined to build one for themselves. 

My friends' names were Perry, Hubbard, and Riggs. They re- 
ceived me with that hospitality which an Englishman always re- 
ceives from Americans, no matter whether they meet him in the 
States or elsewhere. 

Two of these gentieraen had brought their wives with them from 
America. Several ruddy-faced and pretty children who were play- 
ing in the room showed that the climate of Sivas was in no way an 
unhealthy one. 

The ladies liked the, place; but when they first came here they 
had to put up with a great ch al of annoyuce, owins to the Turkish 
little boys. ' The latter, unaccustomed to see women walking about 
in European costume, and with their faces uncoveied, had some-; 
times followed them in the street and thrown mud at their dresses. 
Whenever tins occurred, and any elder Turks were present, they 
had chastised their young compatriots and put an immediate end to 
the disturbance. 

" I dare say," observed one of the missionaries, V that it was a 
strange sight for the people in Sivas to see our ladies walking about 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 125 



the town. However, if a Turkish woman weie put down in the 
streets of New York, 1 reckon that she would have a crowd at her 
heels before long." 

This remark reminded me of an episode which had recently oc- 
curred in America, and which had found its way into the news- 
papers, li appears that a Chinese lad was selling sweets and lolli- 
pops in New Orleans, when a burly native, coming up to him, 
kicked over the tray and the boy's wares. The lad, without a word 
ot remonstrance, picked up his lollipops. The man a second time 
upset them into the mud. The child looked at his tormentor, and, 
collecting his sweetmeats, said to him: " You are a Christian and 
1 am a heathen; 1 should be sorry to change places with you!" 

" There are bad people all over the world," remarked one of the 
missionaries; " the poor, ignoiant Turks are not nearly so cruel as 
some people would nave us believe." 

" No, they are not cruel," observed another Gentleman, " but they 
are pig-headed— that is their great fault. They will not advance 
with the times in which they live; it they adopt European inventions, 
they copy them blindly, and without adapting them to <ircu in- 
stances. Soon after the telegraph was invented, the Turks deter- 
mined to have special lines, and to use the Tuiki*h alphabet: the 
man who was employed to arrange the system copied it blindly from 
our own. Now 'E ' and 1 i,' the fifth and ninth letters in our 
alphabet, are those which occur very frequently in an ordinary mes- 
sage; in Europe the telegraph dial is so arranged as to facilitate the 
transmission of the letters most often employed. The Turk, wiien 
he came to ' 1,' and found it was the ninth letter in our alphabet, 
placed the ninth in his own on the same looting, whereas that letter 
is, comparatively speaking, but seldom ustd. " 

" A few years ago," observed one of the missionaries, " there 
was an Englishman here connected with tire Anglo-Indian Tele- 
graph. We were then as well supplied .with inlormation as the 
people in Loudon or New York. It was the time of the French 
war, and all the news was sent daily from England to Hindostan. 
Our friend used to tap the wire, and send us a little budget of in- 
formation every morning; but now he is gone, and all that we hear 
is several weeks or months old." 

" There was actually a great deal of difficulty in introducing the 
potato plant," remarked another gentleman; "this will give you 
an idea of the nature of the people with whom we have to deal. 
Some foreigners brought' over the seeds and planted them. They 
came up very well; the soil is admirably suited for their growth. 
But i he natives would not eat the potatoes. It was not until the 
military authorities, who were shmt of provisions, supplied them 
to the soldiers in lieu of other edibles, that the soldiers would par- 
take ot this vegetable. They soon acquired a laste for it, and potato 
culture is gradually spreading throughout the district. 

"1 tell you what it is," said another missionary, "the Turks 
about here »re ju&t the mside-ouf-4dest and the out-eidest-insidest 
the botlom-side-upwardesf and the lop side-downwardest, the back- 
side- for wardest and the torwaid-side-backvvardest people I have ever 
seen. Why, they call a compass, which points to the north.. 



126 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIS OR. 



' Quebleh,' south, just for the sake of contradiction, and they have 
to change their watches ever^y twenty-four hours, because they 
count their lime after sunset, instead of reckoning up the day like 
the Christians." 

The peculiarity of this gentleman's expressions rather struck me 
at the time. It was clear that he had not formed a favorable opinion 
of the Sultan's Mohammedan subjects; but when 1 chanced the 
conversation to the Armenians, 1 found that the company looked 
upon them as being quite as ignorant as the Turks, and much more 
deceitful. 

The good missionaries found the conversion of these superstitious 
and ignorant Christians of the East a very difficult and uphill task. 
Indeed, 1 subsequently heard from some Armenian Roman Catho- 
lics, who might have been prejudiced in making th<3 statement, that 
most of the converts to Protestantism were from amongst the 
Armenian shop-keepers, who supplied the mission with goods. 

" Supposing the Russians were to conquer Anatolia, what would 
be the position of the Protestant mission?" 1 inquired of my hosts. 

" We should be immediately turned out of the country to mane 
wav tor the Russian priests," was the answer. " The Tzar's gov- 
ernment does not tolerate any religion save its own." 

This remark struck me, coming, as it did, not from an English 
Protestant, but from an American, and from an inhabitant of that 
country which, in spite of its Republican institutions, has always 
been thought to have a great sympathy with Russia. 

So the government "of this last-mentioned Empire would not 
brook any foreign mission in its territory, and the emperor would 
not be likely to allow American missionaries to impart to the Rus- 
sian idolaters a knowledge of the Protestant faith. 

Protestantism implies freedom of thought. The right of investi- 
gation would be very displeasing to a despotic set of ruiers. The 
superstitions and debased form of worship attached to the Greek re- 
ligion have no chance of being replaced by our pure Protesant faith, 
until such time as the autocratic system of government which pre- 
vails throughout Russia is terminated by a revolution. 



CHAPTER XX VIII. 

The following day 1 rode to an Armenian monastery, which is 
known by the name of the Mona'stery of Mshan or of the Cross, it 
stands on a rising slope, about two miles from Sivas. Its Gothic 
towers, more than 500 years old, look down upon the town and 
neighboring villages, and can be seen for many miles around. 

A large garden, over ihirty acres in extent, inclosed by a high 
wall made of dried clay, supplies the monks with fruit and vegeta- 
bles. It bounds the monastery upon one side; on the other there 
are several farms, which furnish cattle, sheep, and other live stock 
as may be required. 

A long, low passage with damp walls led the way, with many 
a winding turn, to the apartment which had been reserved for my 
use. 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



127 



Here 1 found the bishop and several other priests belonging to the 
community. The ceiling of the room was of handsomely-carved 
oak, and divans, as in the Turkish houses, supplied the place of 
chairs. Some Armenian merchants now arrived, and shortly after- 
ward dinner was announced. 

It was a fast day. The bishop himself could not partake of the 
dishes. However, he gave permission to the other guests to break 
the fast, and a turkey stuffed with apples — the piece de resistance— 
was nothing to the hungry visitors; the dinner being in the Turkish 
style, made up of a series of surprises to our stomachs. 

According to one of the Armenians the Turkish finance was in an 
utteily hopeless condition. 

" Our government," he remarked, " first said that it would only 
issue paper money to the amount of 3,000,000,, liras, and we have 
caime to the value ot 11,000,000 liras in circulation!" 

" Yes," said another merchant, " the lira is now at 160 piastres, 
but if there is a war it will rise to 500. The government will be the 
loser in the long run," he continued, " every one is speculating for 
the fall, and we are buying up all the gold we can." 

1 now learned that the Armenian merchants in Sivas employed 
the telegraph very freelv in their monetary speculations. The in- 
habitants in general only knew of the rise or fall in the value of 
their paper money by the post, which arrived once every fortnight. 
The value of caime in proportion to gold was reckoned according to 
the date ot the post's delivery. But, as the Turkish bank-notes 
were becoming more and more depreciated every day, the Armenian 
merchants who employed the telegraph were able to make large 
sums by buying up all the gold in the district, and pocketing the 
differ ence between the actual exchange and that which passed cur- 
rent at Sivas. 

The walls of the monastery were not thick enough to keep the 
breath of scandal from reaching the abode of the recluses. 1 was 
told of a former governor of Sivas, who Had been extremely popular 
throughout the district, and who in forty days had actually estab- 
lished order in the town and neighborhood. It appeared that this 
Pasha was a very good-looking man. One day, when he was at 
Constantinople, a sister of the late Sultan Abdul Aziz chanced to see 
him. She wished to marry the Adonis; "but unfortunately," 
added my Armenian informant, "he was in love with his own 
wife, a pretty woman. He declined the Sultan's offer to take his 
sister, who was not good-looking, as chief lady in the harem. Soon 
afterward the Pasha died at Smyrna, under very suspicious circum- 
stances. It is generally supposed that he was poisoned." 

" His eminence is freed from all such dangers/' whispered an- 
other of the guests, as he called my attention by a nudge with his 
elbow. 

" How so?" 1 asked. 

" Why, he cannot marry. Our bishops are not allowed this in- 
dulgence. Should a priest take unto himself a wife he can never 
become a bishop." 

" How does your system answer?" 1 inquired. 

"Answer! very badly. They are not allowed to have wives ot 



128 



ON HOESEBACK THBOt'GH ASii MINOR. 



their own; but they look after the welfare of the ladies in their con- 
gregation. Are your Protestant bishops allowed to marry?" 
"Yes." 

" Well, it would be a good thing for the married people in Ar- 
menia, if our bisLops had the same permission." 

1 now went to see the cnapels belonging to the monastery. 

An altar in one of them was profusely decorated with gold and 
other ornaments. It was erected to, the memory of the four martyrs 
of Sivas, who were torn to pieces by the Pagans about 1,500 } ears 
ago. It is said that our Saviour shortly afterward appeared to the 
inhabitants of the town in the form of a bird, and alighted upon a 
large stone near the place where the four Christians had been mur- 
dered. The stone was subsequent!}' taken to the monastery, and 
this altar had been erected upon it. In another chapel there "was a 
picture of one of the kings of Armenia in the act of being conse- 
crated by an archbishop of Sivas. The holy father who called my 
attention to this picture pointed to the suppliant form of the king, 
who was kneeling before a priest, and to a monk who was writing 
the date of the coronation on a scroll ot parchment, and looking 
down upon the soven ign, 

M Things are very different to what they were then," remarked 
the priest, " In those days even kings had to obey the I10I3' Church. 
They do not think anything ot us now," he added, with a sigh; 
" instead of giving presents to the Church, they take away fiom it 
the few privileges and the little wealth it has left." 

" Have you any privileges belonging to your order?" 1 asked. 

" Only one: we have not to pay any duty upon salt, and 1 sup- 
pose that even this slight exemption from taxation will be taken 
away from us ere long." 

A throne belonging to a former king of Armenia was next pro- 
duced. It was made of ebony, and in form much resembled a shut- 
up garden-chaii, but one of giganlic dimensions. The sovereign 
for whom this throne had been made died several hundred years 
ago at Sivas. The worthy fathers differed a few hundred years as 
to the date of the monarch's decease, and so it is impossible for me 
to give it. His bones were taken to Van, and inteired there; how- 
ever, bis sons reigned for many years afterward, and held their court 
at Sivas. 

" Our nation has had a great many reverses, " said the bishop; 
" but who knows what is in store for us?" 

" We do not want any -Russian rulers," said an old Armenian 
merchant. " When 1 was a child," he continued, "the Russians 
made war upon the Persians. A general, second in command of 
the Russian forces, was an Armenian. The head of our Church 
helped the Russians, and 25,000 Armenians were levied to aid them 
in the war against the Shah. The Persian army was annihilated, 
twenty-five cities were destroyed, the invading forces advanced 
loward Teheran. The Shah then made a treaty with Russia." 

" What has that got to do with your aislike of the Russians?" 1 
inquired. 

' ' Listen!" said the old man. " After the war was over the Rus- 
sian chief was alarmed lest the Armenian general, who was a very 
skilliul officer, might make himself King of Armenia. He accused 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH- ASIA MINOR. 



129 



him of treason, had. his eyes taken out, and sent him a prisoner to 
Russia."* . 

44 The Russians would not have been pleased if we had been made 
independent at that time," said a priest. "They have always 
looked upon us as a certain inheritance, all they want to do is to 
take our territory without having to fight tor it." 

" We revenged ourselves upon Hassan, Khan of Persia, who had 
defiled one of our churches neai Ararat," remarked the old mer- 
chant. " He was taken prisoner and transported to the church 
which he had desecrated. He was afterward tied face to iace with 
a dog, and given the same food as that animal, The Persian soon 
died of shame or starvation." 

There is but little export trade from Sivas. Tobacco is the 
staple produce of the country. All the articles imported are very 
dear, owing to the expense of transport from Samsoun, the roads 
between Sivas and that port being very bad. 

Sugar, I was informed, cost eighleenpence a pound. If an enter- 
prising inhabitant were to start a manufactory of this article of 
consumption he would speedily make an immense fortune. Beet- 
root and a peculiar sort of sweet carrot abound throughout the dis- 
trict. The first-mentioned vegetable can be bought for eight shil- 
lings a ton. It might be grown for very much less. Any amount 
of water power could be brought from the neighboring mountains 
to bear upon machinery. Coal is also to be found in the neighbor- 
hood. This part of Anatolia is supplied with sugar from Constan- 
tinople. If it were manufactured on the spot, the profit would be 
very great, for the cost or* carriage would be saved; in all probability 
it would utterly supplant the Constantinople sugar, and soon find a 
market throughout ihe whole of Asia Minor. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

On leaving the monastery, we rode to the principal mosque of the' 
town. I was struck by seeing a large ostrich egg suspended from 
the ceiling by a silver chain. On my asking the Turk, who showed 
me over the building, why this egg was hung there, he replied: 

" Effendi, the ostrich always look at the eggs which she lays; if 
one of them is bad, she breaks it. This egg is suspended here as a 
warning to men that, if they are bad, God will break them in the 
same way as the ostrich does her eggs." 

Mohammed met me as 1 was returning to my house. He was 
very much excited. 

" What is the matter?" 1 inquired. 

" Effendi, a regiment is about to march to Erzeroum. It will be 
a grand sight. The Pasha will accompany it out of the town. The 
dancing dervishes will go before the band. Other dervishes will be 
there with sharp knives;, they will cut themselves, but the blood 
will not flow! It will be a miracle! And all this we can see from 
the Effendi 's window !" 

* I wrote this anecdote down at the time. It is given precisely as the Ar- 
menian narrated the story. I have not been able to find a corroboration of the 
statement in any historical document. Very little is known of what took place 
during this war. 

h, ~ : " ' . 6 



130 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



'■■ Happy are" you, O Mohammed, to be able to see such wonderful 
sights. without paying for them," 1 remarked; then, giving him my 
horse, 1 went upstairs to my room. 

An immense crowd had" gathered in the square; the part facing 
the barracks was thronged by hundreds of idlers who weie eagerly 
pressing against the gates. Presently they were thrown wide 
open. The governor, in his dray-like carriage, issued from the 
portals. He was accompanied by the colonel of the regiment, who 
was mounted on a superb gray, and rode by the side of the Pasha's 
vehicl e. : - ; f)JtiJ j '$0j O 8 \ 

ISext came six dancing dervishes clad in sack-cloth, and with 
long cowls over their green turbans. They in their turn were fol- 
lowed by about twenty men — some carrying what appeared to be 
bill -hooks — others, maces with leaden balls attached to them by 
chains, and bright steel-skewers. 

" This is delightful!" said Mohammed, who, by way of seeing 
better, had climbed on to the top of the divan, torn away the piece 
of paper which supplied the place of- a pane of glass, and, having 
thrust his head and shoulders through the aperture, was staring 
with his mouth wide open at the procession. "Please God they 
will soon begin to cut themselves!" 

However, he was doomed to disappointment; the dervishes had 
already cut themselves in the barrack-yard, and were not inclined 
to repeat the performance. 

On they went in serried ranks, followed by the troopers, all of 
whom were excellently mounted on' horses averaging about fifteen 
hands, and which looked in capital condition. The men were armed 
with American revolvers and repeating-rifles, whilst a short curved 
cimeter hung by each man's side. 

" How long will it be before they reach Erzeroum?" I inquired 
of Mohammed. 

" About a month," was the answer; " but they are going by a 
short route by Kara Hissar, and we by Divriki, Arabkir, and^Egin, 
which will be a long way round. W e shall arrive first at our desti- 
nation, as the regiment will not march more than sixteen miles a 

day." , - . > auol ;tao6 WW JI 48 

The Pasha ordered his coachman to draw up the carriage on one 
side of the road; the'dervisbes raised a mournful j^ell. Ihe regi- 
ment passing onward, was lost to view behind an avenue of poplars. 

The following morning 1 started at daybreak in the direction of 
Dudusa, a village about five hours from Sivas. For some distance 
we marched alongside the left bank of Kizil Ermak. The track 
was very heavy. The baggage-horses had great difficulty in making 
a way through the mud. Presently we came upon some firm soil. 
The scenery changed from a flat expanse of plow-land to a winding- 
chain of rugged heights. Chain succeeded chain. Snowy crests 
were piled up in rear of each other like the billows of the deep. 
Our path led round these mountain peaks. From time to time we 
caught a glimpse of the Kizil Ermak, which, white as silver, flowed 
through the vale at our feet. Nature's walls on all sides of us were 
of every color; at every moment, red, blue, and gray sandstone met 
our gaze. n3emi6 < b$ti wiw\4J:.r. >.: x-'fhm 

We round a neighboring crag; avast rock of the purest marble 



OK HOESEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MINOS. 



131 



lies before our party. Huge blocks strew the borders of the path; 
they sparkle beneath the sky, and rival m their Parian whiteness the 
snowy heights overhead. On the summit of an adjacent hill is the 
monastery of Dudusa, and at its foot the village of the same name, 
made up of straggling houses, built at long intervals apart — some of 
mud and marble; others — where the inhabitants had been too idle 
to transport the blocks from the adjacent rock— of dried clay; and 
a few of the abodes of the better-to-do farmers actually boasting 
glass windows. In other houses the panes were replaced by paper 
or pieces of some transparent alabaster, which is found in large 
quantities in the neighborhood. 

Dudusa is an Armenian village. 1 now learned that Issek Pasha 
was very popular among the villagers. 1 must say that 1 was a lit- 
tle surprised at this, after the way the Armenians in Sivas had 
abused their governor. Two months previous, some Turks, from a 
neighboring hamlet, had made a raid on the flocks belonging to the 
inhabitants of Dudusa, and had carried off fifty sheep. Informa- 
tion of the robbery was given to the Pasha, he at once sent out a 
party of soldiers. The robbers had been arrested. They were ex- 
piating their offense in prison. 

1 had heard at Sivas that a relief battalion which had lately 
marched to Erzeroum had outraged some women near Dudusa. I 
took the opportunity to inquire if the story were true. Like many 
other statements which had been made to me by the so-called Chris- 
tians in Anatolia, it turned out to be a fiction. The relief soldiers 
had passed that Wav. The only thing which could be said against 
them was that they liad not paid for the bread with which they had 
been supplied, as the military authorities had not given them any 
money. There were no officers with the troops, but the men had 
given the name of their regiment. On application to head-quarters, 
the amount due would be transmitted to the villagers. 

I did not stay long at Dudusa, but after lunching at the priest's 
house, continued the march, toward Kotnu, another village about 
twenty-seven miles, or about nine hours from the capital of the 
province. 

It was dusk long ere we reached our halting-place. In passing 
over a narrow wooden bridge, one of my horses put his foot down a 
hole between the planks, and nearly broke his leg. Misfortunes 
never come singly. A moment later, the poor brute strayed of! a 
few yards from the track. He was at once bogged in the treacher- 
ous soil. Everything had to be unstrapped from the saddle, a rope 
was attached to his surcingle, and then, by means of the other 
horses, he was dragged from the slimy trammels. It was hard work 
loading him again. 

The thermometer had fallen to considerably below zero. The 
wind howled and blew the snowy flakes in Our faces. The horses 
would not stand still. Our matches were wet through. We could 
not light them. Under 9uch circumstances we had to arrange the 
baggage. 

The Zaptiehs who had been sent to act as guides would not help: 
they sat still, cursing their destiny which had made them accom- 
pany a mad giaour like myself, who had chosen to travel from 
Scutari to Kars all the way by land, instead of going the greater part 



132 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



of the distance by sea, like a sensible true believer. 1 have but lit- 
tle doubt that the same train of thought was passing through Mo- 
hammed's and Radford's mind. However, the latter never flinched, 
and Mohammed had evidently won his friendship, for, on my ask- 
ing my English servant how he liked his new companion, he replied: 
" Sir, he is worth three of Osman at any time, save praying-times, 
and then there is not a pin to choose between them. They must be 
awful sinners, these Mohammedans, if they require five prayers a 
day to settle the account with their consciences. Mohammed ain't 
that artful as Osman was. fie don't choose the moment that there 
is work to be done, to set to work at his victuals, or to flop down on 
his knees to say his prayers. Mohammed has his pray all to himself 
afterward, and then it don't so much signify!" 

" What! Has not Mohammed so good an appetite as Osman?" 

" No, sir, Mohammed has more of a Christian's appetite; he is 
satisfied with what 1 put before him, he don't go prigging out of the 
tin like that there other Turk. Why, 1 watched Osman one day 
eating a chicken which I had kept back for your supper! A few 
days before, 1 had missed one out of the pot, and had taxed him 
with it; he then said, ' fceupek,' doe:, as if a dog would go and lift 
up the lid of the tin! I used to call Osman ' keupek ' afterward, 
and he did not seem to like it. The other Turks, when they want 
to give it a fellow, tell him that he is the grandson of a dog; but 1 
call Osman the original animal — dirty hound that he was too — quite 
spoiled my coat, that he did!" 

And my servant, lighting a short, wooden pipe, the wonder of the 
Turks, smoked furiously —the rapidity of ids puffs probably denot- 
ing an extreme dislike to his late fellow-servant. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Snow fell heavily cluring the night. The next morning our path 
was covered to a depth of quite two feet. In the valley it was as 
much as our horses could do to force a passage onward; but, as we 
ascended a mountain path, the snow, though deep, was in a f rozen 
state, and afforded a firm foothold. 

The scenery was very picturesque as we gradually climbed the 
steep. The bushes and pine-trees which studded the mountain's 
sides were wreathed in flossy snow; crags of all shapes and colors 
glinted out above the pale, white carpet. A thick veil of azure 
clouds hung on the peaks of the distant hills; then, gradually dis- 
persed Dy the rising sun, it broke up into a hundred different forms, 
and, ascending higher in the sky, opened out other mountains to our 
vision. Layer upon layer of seemingly ever- ascending ranges barred 
the way in front. They sparkled beneath the rays of the golden 
orb. They flashed and glittered like the billows of the mighty 
deep. Mv eyeballs ached and felt as if they would burst beneath the 
glare. The village at our feet disappeared in the distance; snrubs 
and such-like traces of vegetation were now no longer to be seen. 
We had arrived in the midst of what seemed to be a vast, white 
ocean. The intensity of the light created a kind of mirage along 
tlic surface. The various crests and ranges seemed to rise and talh 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 133 



They became more wave-like than before. Not a living thing was 
in sight save ourselves. Ever and anon a boom, as of thunder, an- 
nounced the fall of an avalanche. 

The cry of "Look out!" from a Zaptieh in rear of our party 
awoke me from the contemplation of Nature's marvelous scene. A 
second _ater. and I found myself on the broad of my back in a 
snow-drift; the animal which 1 had been riding was pawing the air 
with his forelegs, like a spaniel the first time he is thrown into the 
water; before any one could reach my horse's head, over he fell— 
the soft substance fortunately saving my body from (he effects of 
the collision. It appeared that 1 had strayed half a yard or so from 
the track, hence this disaster. The Zaptieh in front of our parly 
dismounted; taking a wand, six feet in length, from his saddle-bow, 
he began to advance with great caution, and to probe the ground be- 
fore him at every step he took. 

" There are deep holes," said Mohammed, wading through the 
snow to my assistance. " If we fall down one of them we shall re- 
main there, and in the summer the eagles will pick our bones. It 
will be better for all of us to walk and lead the horses," he con- 
tinued. " Even then we shall have great difficulty iu effecting a pas- 
sage. The chief Zaptieh has been saying that it would be better if 
we were to return to Kotnu and try to cross the mountains to-mor- 
row. 

The snow had recommenced falling; it was difficult to see what 
lay before us. However, we had accomplished more than half of the 
day's march. "In all probability the path would soon become more 
difficult. 1 determined at all hazards to push on, and the more par- 
ticularly as 1 had no time to waste, owing to my limited leave of 
absence. Forward we waded through the gradually-rising drifts. 
Each man followed his neighbor in Indian hie; presently the lead- 
ing Zaptieh who was engaged in sounding the path before him, 
buried the six-feet wand in the snow: he thrust his elbow down after 
the stick; there was still no bottom. TTe were off the track. A 
false step might at any moment send us down the chasm. A con- 
sultation took place between the Zaptiehs, the head man urging forci- 
bly upon our party the necessity of returning. But when we faced 
the other way. the wind cut against our eyes with great violence. 
The particles of snow were so blinding that it was clearly much 
more dangerous lo return than to proceed. 

" It is our fate!" remarked the chief Zaptieh to tae comrade by 
his side. 

" Destruction seize the giaour who may be the cause of all our 
death!" said another. 

" Let him die of the plague!" added a third. 

This rather slrong language was uttered in a loud tone, and as if 
the speakers did not care whether their observations met my ear or 

" I tell you what it is!" 1 cried rather sternly to my unruly fol- 
lowers, and at the same time drawing my revolver; ' ' 1 cannot "reach 
you with my whip: but if you make any more insulting remarks, 1 
shall send a bullet in your direction to teach you manners!" 

"For the sake of Heaven be quiet!" cried Mohammed to the 



134 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



Zaptiehs— for he, being directly in the line of fire, did not wish to 
expose himself as a shield to the delinquents. 

" There will be no baksheesh unless you are as docile as horses," 
continued my Turkish servant. 

This last remark, com Dined with my threat — which, it is needless 
to say, I had no intention to put into execution— brought the guides 
to their seases. Presently the stick of the leading Zaptieh struck 
against the track, and, after wading through the snow for some 
three hours more, we descended the side of the mountain. The 
snow disappeared as we reached the vale below, and deep mud, 
reaching above our knees, covered the track before us. It was ter- 
ribly hard work tor the baggage-horses. One of them, stumbling, 
fell prostrate in the mire. INo amount of pressure would induce 
him to get up; so, taking off his pack-saddle and. dividing the bag- 
gage as best we could — placing some on the saddle- horses and carry- 
ing the rest ourselves —we struggled on to a glimmering light which 
marked our quarters for the night. 

The village of Yarbasan was reached. Sending back some of the 
villagers for the abandoned animal, 1 prepared to make myself as 
comfortable as the circumstances would allow. 

In the meantime Radford and Mohammed were busily engaged in 
unloading the other baggage-horse. The pack-saddle was too broad 
to pass through the narrow gateway; all the luggage had to be un- 
strapped in tne street — such a street as it was too! Imagine a farm- 
yard of the dirtiest description, and without any straw to absorb the 
nlfory refuse; but even this does not convey to my own mind the 
hideous state of the road through Yarbasan. The inhabitants pos- 
sessed many cattle, which were each evening driven into the village, 
so as to be out of the way of wolves. It had never occurred to the 
mind of the oldest villager to remove the deposits of their cows and 
oxen. If a farmer wished to pay a visit to a neighbor across the 
way, he simply tucked up his dressing-gown under his arm-pits, 
took off his slippers, broad trousers, and stockings; then, commit- 
ting himself to Providence, he would wade through the dirt to his 
friend's house. 

" Why do you not clean the street?" 1 inquired of my host, an 
old Turk, who, having just come in from the country, was rubbing 
his legs with some straw before ttie fire. 

" The mud will dry up in the summer months," replied the man; 
" why trouble our heads about it now?" 

The inside Df the dwelling was not so clean as an average pig-sty. 
Horses, oxen, cows, arid sheep were stowed away in the same room 
as ourselves. The Zaptiehs had squatted down in one corner with 
the host, Radford and JMohammed Jay stretched out in the middle of 
the floor. 

In a few minutes a woman arrived from some other bouse in the 
neighborhood. She was clad in a, long strip of cloth, which envel- 
oped the upper part of her body; her legs and feet were covered with 
mud. Putting clown a large wooden tray, on which were several 
thin cakes of half-cooked paste, and a basinful of oily soup, she re 
tired. The proprietor of the house, after offering the dishes to me, 
returned to the Zaptiehs. In the meantime, closing my eyes, I tried 
to doze off to sleep. Presently the gendarmes thought Twasnn the 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 135 



land of Sonmus, and iny attention was aroused by the familiar term 
of " giaour." 

" Only think of our being ordered to accompany an infidel to 
Divriki in the winter!" observed the chief of the party. 

" Yes, and tor him to threaten to whip us!" said the other. 

" He would have done it, too," said Mohammed, joining in the 
conversation: "My Effendi is not like the Christians about here. 
He is an Inglis!" 

'* So the Inglis giaours are different to the Armenian giaours?" 
observed the Zaptieh. 

"Very different : the Armenians tall?, but the Inglis strike. 
Hush! hush! we shall asvake him!" and the conversation gradually 
died away in a whisper. 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

The baggage-horse was very little the worse for his long march 
of ten hours on the previous day. Yarbasan was not a lively place to 
stop at, I determined to push on to Divriki. 

We passed a range of hills — red-colored stones lying in profusion 
along the track— and descending a deep incline, arrived on the banks 
of the river Dumrudja (Kumet Su), a rapid stream, here about fifty 
yards wide. A quantity of wood was floating on the waters. This 
had been cut in the pine forests higher up the channel, and afterward 
been tossed into the river to find its way to Divriki. There was no 
bridge over the stream, the water being more than four feet deep. A 
consultation took place amongst the Zaptiehs. 

" What are they talking about?" 1 inquired of Mohammed. 

" Effendi, they say that if any one of our horses were to stumble, 
it would be a bad thing for the rider. There is a waterfall a few 
hundred yards down the stream." 

The large pieces of timber which were whirling round and round 
in the middle of the river were also a source of anxiety, for should 
anv of these huge beams strike a horse, the animal would have been 
swept off his legs for a certainty. After a minute or two spent in 
consideration, the Zaptiehs determined to cross the river, every 
horsemaa riding abreaat of his companion. The stream would then 
press against the outside horse; he, however, would be supported 
by the one alongside him; each animal in turn, being assisted by the 
other quadrupeds of the party. 

It was as much as our horses could do to reach the opposite bank. 
After several thanksgivings to the all-merciful Allah, we once more 
began to climb into the clouds. A dense mist prevailed. Presently 
almost everything was hidden from our view. The snow became 
deeper and more blinding; at last the pack-horses came to a stand 
still. Unloading the baggage-animals, we distributed the luggage 
among the saddle-horses, and wading onward, continued our march 
through the snow. This in some places was nearly breast high. 

On the summit of the mountain stood a little house built of rocks, 
which were loosely piled the one upon the other: and, resting here 
for a minute or so to recover our breath, 1 was informed that it had 
been erected by a charitable Turk in Divriki, as a shelter lor be- 
nighted travelers. 



136 



CKN" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" Blessings on his head!" said theZaptieh who gave me the infor- 
mation. " This shelter has saved several lives already. If we had 
arrived here two hours later, it might have been the means ot saving 
our own. The wind is rising,'' he continued, " and the sooner we 
leach Divriki ihe better." 

Presently, the little town appears in sight; a thin skirt of poplar- 
trees encircles it as in a frame. An old, ruined citadel, perched up 
on a seemingly inaccessible rock, faces us from the opposite side of 
Divriki. A tower on a still higher peak, but communicating by a 
hidden path with the citadel, serves as a place of refuge for the gar* 
rison, should the first-mentioned stronghold ever be taken by assault. 
A rapid stream -the Tchalt Tchai— runs bel»w the citadel. The 
town is said to contain about 3,400 houses, of which 3,000 belong to 
Turks, and the remainder to Armenians. 

Behind the houses and in the distance were fresh layers of snow- 
covered mountains; the valley in which the town lies had not felt 
the onslaught of winter; it was still covered with deep mud. 

One of the Zaptiehs galloped forward with a letter to the governor 
from the Pasha at Sivas. Presently, the official rode out to meet 
me. He was accompanied by an escort of gendarmes under the com- 
mand of a captain. The latter, who was mounted upon a spirited 
little Arab, caracoled his steed to and fro — now bending over the 
saddle and trying to touch the ground with his hand— then going- 
through all the motions of throwing the Djerrid — evidently wishing 
to astonish the weak nerves of the newly^ arrived giaours. 

"Lor'! what a cropper!" 

This remark from my English servant disturbed me in my conver- 
sation with the governor. On looking round, I saw the captain roll- 
ing in the mud." His saddle had turned— hence the fall. 

"Serve him right, sir!" remarked Bartlord, catching my eye. 
" He was a-spurring his horse that cruel; now 7 pulling him up short 
on his withers, and then loosing him off like an express train. He 
was trying to show us how he could touch the ground. 1 believe, 
sir, the fellow thinks that we know nothing about riding, and that 
is why he wanted to do a Astley's performance out here in Hasia!" 

The Caimacan led the way to a large house, belonging to a Turk- 
ish gentleman, a personal friend of the Pasha of Sivas. My host re- 
ceived me very courteously. He was under the impressidn'tliat 1 had 
come to Divriki on some business connected with mines, and 
seemed surprised when he was informed that nothing but a w'ish to 
see the country had induced me to ride through Anatolia. 

"There are mines in the neighborhood," said the Turk, "and, 
according to tradition, some very rich ones. They were worked sev- 
eral hundred years ago— that is, when people lived who had brains 
— but now, alas! every man's head is like a blown out calf's skin. 
The people do not know how to get at the'treasures which lie hid 
beneath the ground, and even if they did, would be too idle to do so. " 

1 observed that, judging lrom the ruins about Divriki, all the 
houses must formeily have been built of hewn stone. 

" Yea," said my host, sorrowfully, "our ancestors w r ere wise 
men. They lived in stone houses, we are satisfied with buildings 
made of dried mud. What do you build your houses of in Eng- 
land?" he inquired. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 13? 



** Of bricks made of clay, burned in a fire." 

" Yes," said the Turk, " you English have advanced. You know 
more than your grandfather. Why have we not done the same?" 

"Probably, because you keep your women shut up in a harem, 
and do not educate them," I replied. " Turkish mothers are very 
ignorant, and, consequently can not instruct their children. The re- 
sult is that your sons are only half educated. Besides this, you 
choose your wives — at least I am told so— foi their looks, and with- 
out any regard to their attainments." 

"The Inglis is quite right," said an old lurk, a friend of my 
host. "If J want to breed a good foal, 1 am as particular about 
the mare as the sire. He means that we leave the mares out of the 
question, and then complain that our stock is not so good as that of 
other nations." 

" But hundreds of years ago our women knew quite as much as 
the Frank women," observed my host. 

"Yes," replied his companion, "and then we could hold our 
own against the Franks. But the Frank women have been educated 
since those times; the Effendi thinks that we ought to educate our 
wives in the same way." 

" It would be difficult to do so," said the Turk, coldly. " Their 
women uncover their faces; I have heard that some of them declare 
that they are the equals of iheir husbands. What ridiculous creat- 
ures they must be," he continued, " not at once to accept that inferi- 
or position which Allah in His wisdom has awarded them!" 

The following day I walked to the citadel, accompanied by my 
host. The building had been erected six hundred years ago. as a de- 
fense against the Persians, who at that time frequently made en- 
croachments into this part of Turkey. The solid, masonry, which 
in many places had been allowed to go to ruin, snowed that the 
walls had been built with great care. Two thousand men could have 
been quartered in the citadel, which now, uninhabited, save by 
dogs and lizards, is rapidly succumbing to the elements. Conven- 
ient embrasures had been left on that side of the rampart which was 
easiest to assault; through them the defenders could pour down the 
celebrated Greek fire so much used in the middle ages. 

The river, which ran below the citadel, separated us from the 
tower which was used as a final place of retreat should the citadel be 
stormed. On my asking how the garrison could cross the water, 
there being no bridge in the vicinity, I was informed that a subter- 
ranean passage led beneath the stream to the other bank, and then 
entering the side of the rock, a winding staircase gave access to the 
tower. The defenders were then able to retreat from the citadel 
without their movements being seen by the enemy. 

It was a glorious afternoon, The view of Divriki, of its numer- 
ous minarets and domes, lying as it were in miniature below us, 
was very lovely. Lofty mountains in winter garb, surrounded the 
suburbs on every side; and the silvery river, threading its way 
through the more distant quarters of the town, bubbled and splashed 
against the rocks and bowlders. The murmur of the waters was 
blended with the hum of the population. The cries of the herdsmen 
mingled ever and anon with the report of a fire-arm in the distance. 

"Is there much game in the neighborhood?" I inquired of my 



138 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 

companion, who, leaning against one of the battlements in the 
tower, was straining his eyes in the direction of the shot. 

"No; a few wild goats are sometimes to be seen on the rocks. 
The sportsman, whoever he is, has probably managed to come upon 
some of them unawares. I have a beautiful gun," he continued; 
" 1 will show it you afterward." 

" Is it for partridges or for big game?" I asked. 

" For big game. It is rifled," he replied, " but 1 often load it 
with shot, and shoot at partridges, that is when they are all huddled 
together on the ground. Do you shoot much in your country with 
ball?" 

*' Yes, there is a great meeting once a year near London. All the 
best marksmen attend, and the queen gives a prize to the best shot." 

" Does she give many paras?" 
A great many — several hundred liras." 

" Now could one of your best shots hit that cow?" pointing to 
an animal about four hundred yards distant. 

"Yes." 

" What a marvel!" said the Turk. " Even the Kurds could not 
do that and they shoot .very well. They manufacture theii own 
powder," he continued, " and very good powder it is too. The pow- 
der sold by the permission of our government is very bad and dear; 
besides that, a man is only permitted to purchase a very small quan- 
tity at a time. Tnere is plenty of sulphur, saltpeter and charcoal 
in the mountains, and the Kurds supply themselves." 

I afterward learned that all the powder which is furnished to the 
troops in Asia Minor is sent from Constantinople. There is no gun- 
powder manufactory in this part of Asia Miuor. It is a great pity 
that the Turks have not long ago started an arsenal in the neighbor- 
hood of Erzigan, which coufd have supplied the troops on the Turko- 
Russian frontier, with cartridges and small arms. As it is, every 
cartridge served out to a soldier before Kars costs the government 
fifty per cent., in addition to its original cost, owing to the difficulties 
of transport. ' , • ..• , / ^,lt 

" The Pasha at Sivas wrote to me to make your stay at Divriki 
as pleasant as 1 could," presently remarked my companion. 

" How did you like him?" observed an Armenian who now 
joined us. 

" Very much." 

" He is civil to all Europeans," continued the Armenian. " Prob- 
ably he took a fancy to you because his astrologer had worked out 
your horoscope, and had reported favorably upon it." 

" You do not mean to say that the Pasha believes in such things?" 
1 observed. 

" Yes; he never makes a journey without first of all consulting 
his astrologer." 

There was no very active trade in Divriki. The Armenians sup- 
plied the people of the town with the few goods which they might 
require at exorbitant prices. 

In addition to this, most of the Christians were usurers. Any 
Mohammedan who chanced to require a loan had to pay his Arme- 
nian fellow-citizen a very high rate of interest. However, in this re- 
spect, Divriki is not an exception to the towns in Anatolia, and in 



Otf HORSEBACK THROUGH" ASIA MIHOR. 



139 



almost every district which I visited 1 found that the leading Chris- 
tians in the community had ma'de their money by usurious dealings. 
In some instances, old Turkish families had been entirely ruined, 
their descendants were lying in jail at the suit of Armenian money- 
lenders. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

1 was now to learn that the usury laws in Turkey are also used 
against the Christians. On returning to my house, a seivant in- 
formed me that an Armenian was down-stairs, and wished to see me. 

He had been in Paris* and could speak a little French. This he 
so intei larded with Turkish that it was rather difficult to f ollow him. 
The man's name was Hanistan Ereck. At leugth 1 discovered that, 
twelve years ago, his father had borrowed 300 piastres frojft a Turk. 
Soon afterward the father died, and the son, leaving Divriki with- 
out paying the debt, had gone to Europe. On his return, the credi- 
tor had him arrested for the sum of 6,000 piastres. This Hanistan 
Eieek refused to pay; he had been imprisoned foi three months in 
consequence. 

The Caimacan was in the room at the time the man made his 
complaint. 

"It seems a hard case," 1 remarked. 

"It is our law," was the reply; " if he had been a Turk, the 
same thing would have happened. 

" No, it would not have happened! 300 piastres could uever have 
amounted to 6,000 piastres!" cried the Armenian, indignantly. 

It appeared that the case was one of hard swearing. The Turkish 
creditor had produced a piece of paper, on which was written that 
he had lent a larger amount than 300 piastres to Hanistan Ereek's 
lather, the document in question bearing the latter's signature. This 
the son swore was a forgery, However, the Turk had been believed, 
and the Armenian had been sent to prison. 

" What would have been done if this case had happened in your 
country?" asked the Caimacan; " would you not have put the man 
in prison for debt?" 

" No; a son is not liable for his father's debts." 

" Well, each country has its own laws, which doubtless are good 
for the rpspective inhabitants." observed the governor; " but if my 
father had died owing a sum of money, 1 should have thought that 
it was my duty to pay it." 

" A very proper resolution," 1 remarked, " but supposing that a 
government has contracted a debt, do you think that its successors 
are bound to pay the interest of the loan?" 

The Caimacan stroked his beard and looked at the Cadi, who pres- 
ently answered: 

" We could not put a government in prison." 

" No," 1 observed, " but your nation owes my nation more than 
a hundred millions of liras, and not only do you not pay us any in- 
terest, but you have even proposed to repudiate the debt altogether!" 

"How can we pay?" said the Cadi; "we have no gold, only 
caime, and your people will not take that. When the Russians leave 
us alone, then we shall be aole to pay." 



140 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



"And in the meantime I suppose 1 am to go back to prison?" 
said the Armenian. 

" We shall see," said the Caimacan, gravely; " the law must be 
carried out. ' ' 

1 have, perhaps, given the abDve case more prominence than it 
deserves, but 1 have done so because in this instance the Governor 
of Divriki and a Christian were contronted in my presence, and the 
Armenian made his complaint without the slightest hesitation or 
tear. Now if the Christians had been so ill-treated as some of their 
co-religionists would have had me believe, Hanistan Ereek would 
not have been likely to have dared to com© forward and find fault 
with the Cadi of his town, who had adjudicated upon the matter. 

According to the governor, the people in his district had not 
shown much readiness to go to the war. In some of the villages 
the redif soldiery were very reluctant to leave their homes, and 
could only be made to do so by the Zaptiehs of the province, who 
were most of them engaged at present in this duty. 
" Why do you not give the Armenians arms?" 1 inquired. 
M They would turn theni against us, and join the Russians," was 
the governor's reply. "In some districts which are very near Rus- 
sia, and where the Armenians have the opportunity of seeing the 
Russians as they are, and not as they pretend to be, the Christians 
prefer being under the Turkish rule; but the Armenians in our cen- 
tral provinces are constantly being tampered with by Russian agents. 
It we were to give the Christians arms, Allah only knows what 
would take place!" 

1 left Divriki at daybreak the following morning, and continued 
the march toward Aiabkir. 

We ascended once more into the clouds, and, after a few hours' 
ride, halted to bait our horses at the village of Yanoot — if, indeed, 
it deserves the name of village — for it consists of a few huts, and 
about twenty-five inhabitants made up the entire population. 

Now a curious phenomenon presented itself before us. We were 
passing a chain of" hills which tiaversed our track from north to 
south. The northern side of every height was covered with deep 
snow, on the southern declivities some igneous rocks were exposed 
to view and glared in the sun. Here the rays were so tierce that not 
only was there no snow, but the weather became oppressively 
warm. A few hundred yards further, and winter attacked us 
again in all its rigor. Our horses were tried to their utmost in forc- 
ing a way before them. 

The road became very rugged. An immense quantity of loose 
sharp pebbles were lying on the track. Our horses could not see 
them and were constantly falling on their knees. Not a village or 
solitary house was met with during our march. It was a picture or 
desolation. A few magpies, which from time to time flew mourn- 
fully across the path, were the only living things besides ourselves. 

"Well, sir, this is a Jordan of a road," remarked my servant 
Radford, referring to some popular song, as the horse he rode fell 
down for the fifth time that morning. "That cemetery in Constan- 
tinople, where we tied the 'osses, was a bad place for riding, but it 
was nothing to this. Mohammed, he don't seem to take any account 
whatever. I never see such fellows as these Turks; they don't seem 



03sT HORSEBACK" THROUGH ASIA MiJSTOR. 141 



to be able to muster a grumble amongst them, no matter what they 
may have to undergo! Why, sir, some of them soldiers as we saw 
at Sivas had not received a day's pay for twenty-five months, and 
they seemed quite content and happy like; whilst, as for rations, it 
is true that the men fill themselves to bursting when they have a 
chance, but when they have to go without their grub they don't 
grumble! 1 wonder, sir, what our soldiers at Aldershot would say 
if they had not received a ha'p'orth of pay for two years, and had to 
march sometimes from morning to night, with nothing inside them 
save a whiff or so of tobacco!" 

Radford was right in his remark about the track being a Jordan 
road— that is, if a Jordan road is the quintessence of everything that 
is stony and disagreeable. \Ye had to lead our horses. Hour alter 
hour sped by; we still seemed to be no nearer to any signs of Arab- 
kir. Now we were up to our waists in snow and quagmire, and 
then we were lying between our horses' heels, the result of a slip 
from some half-hidden bowlder. 

At last we arrived at a spot close to the town. Here the rocks 
were of a ciimson hue, their sides were covered with peDbles of 
ebon blackness. We mounted our horses, and, riding along a pre- 
cipice-bounded path which leads into the long straggling city, pres- 
ently halted at the house of an Armenian gentleman, who was kind 
enough to offer us a lodging for the night. 

My host was a silk-merchant. He had started in business a very 
few years previous. This district being suitable for breeding. silk- 
worms', he had speedily amassed a fortune. He was'now one of the 
wealthiest men in the province, and not.jmly supplied the Arabkir 
district with textures of his mauufacturerbut sent them by caravans 
to the limits of Asia Minor. He was very much respected by tbe 
Mohammedans in the town, and was ou the best of terms with the 
Caimacan. The latter, when he heard of my arrival, called, aud, 
after salaming my host, told him that he should stay to dinner. 

The apartment set aside for my use was hung round with en- 
gravings of all the sovereigns in Europe. A book-shelf in one cor- 
ner was filled with French books, none of which my host could read. 

44 Do vou know French?" 1 inquired. 

" No!" 

" Then what is the good of those volumes to you?" 

" 1 am sorry tor my ignorance," replied the man, " but 1 mean 
to have my child sent to Constantinople; there he shall learn French, 
and afterward he will be able to read to me what is inside these 
hooks. Pretty covers, are they not?" he continued, pointing to the 
binding. "1 bought them when 1 w r as residing at Erzeroum, and 
the merchant told me that they were full of wisdom. 1 have a 
European servant," he added. 

44 A Frenchman?" 

" No, a Russian." 

44 A Russian!" 

44 Yes. You mav well be surprised," he said, 44 for there is not 
much love lost between the Russians and ourselves. This mau was 
taken prisoner during the Crimean war. When it was over he pre- 
ferred remaining with us to returning to his own country." 



142 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



CHAPTER XXX11I. 

My host now called out in a loud voice, " Atech!" (fire!) " 1 want 
to show you my Russian servant," he remarked. The door opened. 
A man ot about fifty years of age, with an unmistakable Calmuck cast 
of countenance, brought a piece of live charcoal, between a pair of iron 
tongs, and placed it in the bowl of my host's chibouk; then, n tiring 
to the end of the room, and crossing his arms, he awaited a fresh 
order. ' '-^aim .ai i 

So you are a Russian?" I said, addressing the man in his native 
tongue. 

" Yes. your excellency." 

" And why did you not return to your own country after the 
Crimean war was over?" 
The man looked down upon the floor; presently he remarked: 

■ '. I was beaten." 

" Who beat you?" YPil^iso'iU &di m a^T 

{.' 1 was beaten all day and all night. My colonel beat me. The 
sergeant boxed my ears, and the corporals kicked me." 

" But did you get flogged more than the rest of your comrades?" 

" No, your excellency Tat tnat time we were all beaten. 1 am told 
that now the'orTicers do not flog their men so much." 

" You are a deserter, "JL remarked. 

" No, your excellency, 1 did not desert. I liked my father the 
Tzar too much to run away when he required my services. 1 was 
taken prisoner; when the war was over, 1 would not return to 
Russia; tuat is all 1 have done." 

" Well, and if the Russians come here, as it is quite possible they 
may, what shall you do then? For you would, in that case, have a 
very fair chance of being hanged." 

" It would be a dreadful thing, your excellencj'-, but I must take 
the risk. 1 would sooner be hanged than go back. *' 

" But things have improved in Russia since your time." 

"A little," replied the man. " Little" by ^little we advance in 
Russia. It is a nice country for the rich, but it is a dreadful country 
for the poor." 

" Is Turkey better?" 

" Yes, your excellency, no one is beaten here; when a man is 
hungry, no Turk will ever refuse him a mouthful of food — that is, 
it he has one for Himself. I hope my brothers will not come here." 
continued the man, pointing presumably in the direction of the 
Caucasus. " Allah has given <~>ur father the Tzar much land; why 
does he want more?" and, after putting some more red- hot charcoal 
in the bowls of our pipes, the rnoujik left the room. 

My host's frequent Tourneys to Erzeroum, where he had occasion- 
ally met Europeans, had given him a taste for the civilized way of 
eating a dinner. He pointed with some pride to his knives and 
forks. They had been brought to Erzeroum from the Caucasus, and 
were a mixture of silver, lead, and gold— the three metals being blend- 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



143 



ed together by tlie Circassian artificers, and then formed into the arti- 
cles in question. 

The Caimacun was also supplied with a knife and fork; however, 
this gentleman did not seem to understand the use of his plate, and 
ate out ot the dish. 

" Which do you like best— to eat with a knife and fork, or with 
your fingers?" 1 inquired. 

" With my fingers," replied the Caimacan. "It is so much 
cleaner," he continued. \\ 1 first wash my hands, and then put them 
into the dish; but 1 do not clean my own fork— that is the duty of 
the servant, who, perhaps, is an idle fellow. Beside this, who knows 
how many dirty mouths this fork has been stuck into before 1 put 
it in mine?" 

Later in the evening, and when the governor had retired, my host 
said that his wife and mother would come and sit with us for a little 
while. 

" I am not like the other Armenians in Anatolia," continued the 
speaker; "I have determined to shut up my female relations no 
longer. ' ' 

" Do they not cover their faces?" I inquired. 

" Yes, m the street they do, but not inside the house." 

The ladies now entered. They were dressed in loose 3 r ellow silk 
dressiog-govs ns. Making a profound reverence to my host, and self, 
they seated themselves on a divan in the further corner of the room, 
tucking their legs underneath them, and assuming the same position 
as my companion. 

" It is a great honor for them to see an Englishman," he observed. 

" Yes," said the old lady, " and what a distance you have come! 
Our roads are bad, and traveling is very disagreeable for ladies," she 
continued. To have to go always on horseback, or in a box slung 
on a mule, is not comfortable. Do English ladies ride?" 

" Yes." i ' -. : ^: fi " '\ ' ' 

" And why should they ride?" observed my host's wife. " Have 
they not carriages and railways in your country, so that when a man 
travels he can take a woman with him without any difficulty?" 

"Yes, but they ride for pleasure. Our queen is very fond of 
riding, and often does so when she is in Scotland." 

" Your queen likes riding! That is a miracle!" said the old lady. 

" 1 do not like it at all— it makes me so sore," said her compan- 
ion: " but you Franks are wonderful people, and your women seeni 
to do what they like!" 

" "Would you aot like to do the same?" 1 inquired. 

" A woman's place is to stay at home, and looli after the children," 
said my host's mother, gravely. 

" Do not the husbands in England often become jealous of their 
wives?" inquired- my host—" and the wives of their husbands?" in- 
terrupted the old lady. 

" Yes, sometimes." 

" Well, there is a great deal to be said on both sides of the ques- 
tion," observed the Armenian. " It will be a long time before we 
follow you in all your customs." 

" You have places in your country where the men and women 



144 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



meet and dance together in the same way as our gypsies dance— at 
least, so 1 have been told," remarked my host's wife. 

" NDt exactly like your gypsies," 1 replied; " but we bave what 
are called balls, where men and women meet and dance together." 

" The husband with his own wife?" 

" No, not always. In fact, more often with the daughter or wife 
of a friend." 

" 1 should like to see a ball very much," observed my host. 

" We had better go," said his mother, " it is getting late;" rising 
from the sofa, she made another very obsequious reverence, and left 
the room with her daughter-in-law. 

The following day 1 rode to see the barracks. Arabkir is built in 
such a straggling lashion that, although it only contains about 3,000 
houses, it extends for a distance of six miles. The houses are built 
on each side of a deep ravine. The streets, which are very precipit- 
ous, lead, in some instances, over the flat roofs of the dwellings. 
The latter were many of them built of stone, and an air of cleanli- 
ness prevailed throughout the (own. 

Large gardens, planted with all sorts of fruit-lrees, surrounded 
the houses. Long avenues of mulberry-trees were to be met with in 
every direction. 

1 stopped for a few minutes at the prison, and, dismounting, 
walked into the building. There were only seven prisoners — six 
Turks and one Armenian — the latter for attempting to pass false 
money, the Mohammedans for robberies and debt. 

The population of Arabkir is equally divided between the Turks 
and Armenians. It was very creditable to the latter that there should 
be only one Armenian in the jail. By all accounts there was very 
little crime in the district, and the prison of Arabkir would be often 
for weeks together without a single criminal within its walls. 

We arrived at the barracks, a square building, with long dormi- 
tories for the troops, and which were fairly clean, it contained at 
the time of my visit, 500 redif (reserve) soldiers. They were shortly 
to start for Eizeroum. There were quarters for three time;? that 
number of troops, and another battalion was expected verv shortly. 

The men had not received their uniform. It was to be given to 
them at Erzeroum; they were clad, for the most part, in rags and 
tatters, and had been armed with the needle rifle. I was informed 
that the M artihi-Peabody weapon would be shortly served out to 
there . A squad of men was being instrucled in the manual exercise 
in one of the passages. 1 spoke to the officer, and inquired if the 
battalion had ever been out tor target practice. 

"IMo," replied the man, apparently surprised at the question, 
" we want all our ball-eartiidges for the enemy." 

" But'if your men do not practice at target in the time of peace, 
they will not be able to hit their enemies in ihe time of war." 

"We are a nation ot soldiers," said the officer. " Every Turk 
carries a fire-arm. You have doubtless observed this on your jour- 
ney," he continued. 

" Yes; but the weapons are for the most part old flint guns, 
which, if fired, would be quite as dangerous to the owners as to the 
foe, and are of no use whatever as h means of enabling your soldiers 
to aim correctly," 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



145 



" If Allah wills it, our bullets will strike the Russians," observed 
the Turk. 

" if Allah wills it, there will be no war, and all this instruction 
which you are giving the men in the manual exercise will have been 
wasted. What is the good of teaching your soldiers anything?" 1 
continued. " If iUlah wills it so, they can defeat the enemy with 
chibouks and naigilehs (pipes) just as easily as with Martini rifles!" 

" This is the effect of the doctrine of fatalism," observed my 
Armenian host, who had accompanied me to the barracks ; u it is the 
cause of half the apathy which characterizes the Turks. Why, they 
on by commenced making roads after Sultan Abdul Aziz's visit to 
Europe." 

" But you Armenians are equally to blame in that respect," 1 ob- 
served. Only look at your own town. There are no roads, the 
streets are not paved, and they are full of ruts. The inhabitants are 
half of them Armenians; then why do not you Christians set the 
Turks an example, and begin by making a road to Divriki?" 

" We are quite as apathetic as the Mohammedans," replied the 
Armenian. *" The same observation which you have just made has 
been repeated to us fifty times. over; but there is no one who has 
energy enough in his disposition to commence taking the initiative." 

" Why do you not set about the business yourself?" 

" I have my own affairs to look after. Wearenotpublic-spiiited, 
or like Englishmen," continued my companion; " each one of us 
tliinksjpf his purse first, and afterward of how to benefit his fellow- 
townsmen. What a good thing it would be for the country if you 
English were to come here!" he continued. " All we want is a little 
of your energy, with it and capital Anatolia would soon become 
one of the richest. countries in the world." 



CHAPTER XXxiv. 

From the barracks we rode to the Mohammedan school. Here 
there were about thirty boys, all squatting on the floor, and engaged 
in spelling verses of the Koran. A. few badly-drawn maps of the 
different quarters of the world were hung round the white- washed 
walls. The governor accompanied me to the schoolroom. On his 
entrance the boys at once stood up and salamed. The Hodja 
schoolmaster made a gesture, as if he too would rise; but then, see- 
ing me, his countenance changed. He sunk back into a sitting- 
position. 

" This is done to show his contempt of you as a giaour," whis- 
pered an Armenian. " This is how he insults us Christians." 

The Caimacan turned a little red when he saw the schoolmaster 
thus seated in his presence. However, he did not make any remark, 
but accompanied me to the Armenifh school. 

There were about a hundred boys in the establishment. The mo- 
ment 1 arrived the) commenced an Armenian song, headed by one 
ot the masters— an elderly gentleman, who sung through his nose. 
A performer on an ancient harpsichord, which from its signs of age 
might have belonged to Queen Anne, accompanied the vocalists. 
The words, 1 was informed, were about the glories of Armenia^ what 



146 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



a fine nation the Armenians were, and how some day Armenia will 
litt up her head once more. My host interpreted to me these verses. 

"Do you think that Armenia will ever be independent?" 1 in- 
quired. 

He shook his head. 

" Russia will very likely be here in a year or two, and then we 
shall be much more oppressed than we are at present. Why, the Rus- 
sian government will not allow this song to be sung in our schools at 
Tiflis. Everything is done to make my fellow-countrymen in the 
Caucasus forget their own language and nationality, and to thorough- 
ly Russify them. If the Russians were to come here, our religion 
would soon disappear," he continued. 

" But some of your priests rather like the Russians?" 

" Some people would sell their souls to obtain a cross or an order, " 
said another Armenian, " But every patriot amongst us who has 
read of what our country once was, will scorn the idea of being de- 
graded into a Muscovite." 

" Are the Russians so very degraded?" I remarked. 

" They possess all the vices of the Turks, and none of their good 
qualities. They drink like swine; many of their officials embezzle 
the public money; and as to lying, they can even outdo the Greeks 
in this respect" 

" You have not a high opinion of the Tzar's people?" 1 observed. 

" No, Effendi; better a hundred times remain as we are than be 
iorced to submit to his rule." 

" Is that really so? 1 thought that you were always complaining 
about the want of liberty in Turkey, "I remarked. 

** Yes, Effendi, all we wish for is to be placed on the same foot- 
ing as the Turks themselves. This is the Sultan's desire; a firman 
has been issued to that effect; but it is a dead letter. The Cadis 
ought to carry out the law; they will not do so. They ought to be 
forced to carry out the Padishah's orders." 

On returning to my quarters, the Caimacan, who accompanied 
me, remarked: 

" Effendi, did you notice the Hodja's (schoolmaster) conduct?" 
" L did." 

" I was sorry to remark that he did not stand up when you en- 
tered the room." 

" It was a very bad example for the boys; they could plainly see 
that their preceptor din" not hold the chief magistrate of the town 
in much respect," 1 observed. 

The Caimacan hesitated tor a moment, and then remarked: 

" Oh! it was not on my account that 1 spoke, but for the sake of 
the Effendi, who is an Englishmen. It was an insult to him." 

" Nol in the least," 1 remarked. " How could il have been, when 
you were present? Why, you^ould have taken notice of it imme- 
diately. " 

" 1 did," said the Caimacan dryly, " and the schoolmaster is in 

prison!" 

Is in prison? What for?" 
' 4 For contempt of his superiors. " 
w How long shall you keep him thy re?" 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. ' 14? 

" That depends upon you ; but be has been shut up about two 
hours already." 

*' 1 should think that it would be sufficient," 1 remarked. 

" Shall I send and have him released?" said the Caimacan. 

" Yes, it you think that he has sufficiently atoned for the way in 
which he insulted you; but make him come here and apologize for 
his conduct." 

My Armenian host now came to me. 

" Do not ask for that," he remarked. " All the fanatics amongst 
the Turks would be furious with me if they heard that the school- 
master had been forcibly brought to my house to apologize to you, 
a giaour. The fellow has had a good lesson," he continued, '] and 
will be more particular the next time he sees a European." 

" Are there many families in this neighborhood?" I inquired. 

" Not more so than in other parts of Turkey; it is everywhere 
very much the same. What ought to be done?" continued the 
speaker, " would be to establish large schools, and insist upon the 
parents sending their children to be"t aught. It Mohammedan and 
Christian boys and girls were to meet in the same school-room, and 
learn their lessons together, they would be more likely to mutually 
respect each other in after-life., To carry this idea into execution, 
it would first be necessary to procure a staff of efficient schoolmas- 
ters. There ought to be a college for Hodjas in Constantinople, 
where Mohammedan and Christian young men could be educated, 
and pass an examination as to their efficiency. We should then have 
qualified men as teachers, instead of the ignorant fanatics who now 
usurp the office. There is another reform which we require," con- 
tinued my host, V and this is that the Mudirs, Caimacans and Pashas 
in the different provinces should not be exclusively Turks. The 
various posts ought to be open to every sect. We are all, Christians 
as well as Mohammedans, the Sultan's subjects; then why make a 
difference? 11 the Turkish lower orders saw that Armenians were 
sometimes selected to be Pashas and Caimacans, they would be more 
likely to respect the Christian community." 

" Do the Turks often insult your religion?'' 1 inquired. 

" No, not often, but they call us giaours (infidels)." 

"Yes," said another Armenian, a professor at the Armenian 
school, and who could speak a little French; " in Maiattia there are 
twelve thousand inhabitants, made up of three thousand Christians 
and nine thousand Turks. Only three months ago some Mohsm- 
rnedans in that town made a cross and tied it to the tail of a dog. 
The hound ran through the streets of the town; the little boys 
threw stones at him, and the holy symbol was dragged in the mud." 

" This is very horrible," 1 remarked. " Did you see it yourself?" 

" No, but I have heard of it." 

" Who told you?" 
A man in Arabkir." 

" Had he seen it?" 

" No, he had not been in Maiattia, but he had been told the story. 
Every one has heard of it." 

" We are in the East," 1 observed to my host, " and it appears to 
me that you Christians are very much given to exaggeration." 

"Yes, Effendi; we want newspapers. If we only had newspa- 



148 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



pers we should then know the truth. How fortunate you must be 

in England to have so many newspapers!" 

" Even they contradict each other sometimes," I remarked. 

" Perhaps. But you are a great nation; I should like to be an 
Englishman." 

'* So should 1," said the schoolmaster. 

The mercury in the theimometer lell very much during the night. 

It was a frosty morning. The steep streets of Arabkir were ex- 
tremely slippery. It was difficult enough for a man on foot to 
avoid falling; as we led our horses down the treacherous inclines 
the poor brutes skated about in all directions. 

We crossed a rapid stream, fifty yards wide, on a fairly strong 
bridge — this river runs into the Euphrates forty miles south of 
Arabkir — and next had to lead our animals througn a difficult and 
mountainous district. 

The track was very narrow. It generally sloped toward a preci- 
pice. In some instances there was" a clear 'drop of at least 400 feet 
within six inches of our horses. -The surfaces upon which they had 
to walk was like glass. A slip would have been certain death; it 
was marvelous how they avoided stumbling. In about three hours' 
time we reached Shephe, an Armenian, village. I halted here for a 
few minutes to bait our animals. 

The proprietor of the house where we dismounted spoke highly 
of the Caimacan at Arabkir. However, he freely cursed the Kurds, 
who in summer time committed many depreciations in the neighbor- 
hood. In the months of June and July, no man's life was in safety. 
There were so few Zaptiehs in the province that the robbess could 
cany on their trade with impunity. 

Presently we passed a stream called the Erman Su. It is spanned 
by a good stone- bridge. On reaching the other side, 1 found my- 
self in a broad, well-cultivated plain. The ruins of a large city lay 
heaped up by the river's banks. This was the site of Hara Bazar, 
an Armenian town which flourished long before either Arabkir or 
Egin were built. The ruins lay some little distance from the path. 
1 did not visit them. My guide informed me that tha, debris con- 
sists of enormous stones. These are the wonder of the villagers, 
who generally build their houses of mud. They can not conceive 
what manner of men were their ancestors who had taken the trouble 
to bring such massive slabs from the distant mountains. The vil- 
lage of Ashoot stands in the middle of the plain, and is composed of 
fifty-one houses, all belonging to Mohammedans. The inhabitants, 
for Turks, were extremely wealthy; some nice-looking Arab horses 
stood in my host's drawing-room. He was the chief person in the 
village, and presently informed me that twenty soldiers, who were 
on their way to Erzeroum, had deserted a few days before, from a 
hamlet about six miles distant. He had been on their track, and 
would certainly have shot the culprits if he had been able to catch 
them. There had been no officer with these soldiers. The men had 
been left to find their way to Erzeroum without even being accom- 
panied by a sergeant. 

"Three days ago," continued my informant, "a battalion, 800 
strong, came to this village. The officer in command demanded 
from the inhabitants nine mules for the transport of his sick men, 



Off HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHTOR. 



149 



The amount to be paid by him for the hire of the animals to Egin 
was fixed at 200 piastres (about £1 of our money). The officer 
omitted to settle the account. The villagers have applied to the 
police authorities at Egin for the sum, and are very angry because 
it has not been paid. 

A Usebashe (captain) now called. He had just arrived from 
Erzeroum, and declared that there was a report in that town to the 
effect that Takoob, Khan of Kashgar, had attacked the Russians 
near Tashkent— had utterly defeated them, and taken 20,000 pris- 
oners and twenty guns. 

" Allah grant that it may prove true!" said my host. " Twenty 
thousand sons of dogs in captivity! This is something! I hope 
Takoob has cut all their throats." 

" God is evidently on our side." said the village Imaum. 

' ' The Russians say fle is on theirs, ' ' 1 remarked. 

" Tes," replied the Imaum. " Infidels even can take the name 
of the Hignest One in vain. But this time they will be punished, 
and the Prophet is already arranging a plan for their destruction." 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

1 was beginning to be a little alarmed about the health of my 
servant Radford. So far he had nol been ill, and he resisted the 
fatigue of wading through deep snow, of bad sleeping accomoda- 
tion" and indifferent fare." He had complained of a pain in his heart, 
during our march that morning, and had not been aDle to walk up- 
hill save at a very slow rate. On arriving at the farmer's house, he 
had lain down in a corner, and, according to Mohammed, was veiy 
ill. I went, to him, and. feeling his pulse, found that itinteimitted. 
He was feverish, and complained of a pain in the head. 

" Would he be able to march the following day?" 

" He thought he should." 

I was exceedingly doubtful about it; and leaving word with Mo- 
hammed to call me should his fellow-servant be taken worse in the 
night, I lay down by the side of our horses and tried to go to sleep. 

1 myself, for several days past, had experienced considerable diffi- 
culty in wading through the snow, but was inclined to believe that 
this was owing to our elevation above the level of the sea, and that 
the diminished pressure of air unpn my body, combined with the 
hard work, was the real cause of mis weakness. However, tUe fact 
remained that the poor fellow was knocked up. It would be impos- 
sible to remain for more than a day or two in our present quarters. 
1 determined to push on as fast "as his health would permit to 
Er/.ingan; tor once there we should be within a nine days' march 
of Trcbizond, and it would be possible, if he were still poorly, for 
me to send him home to his relations. 

To my great delight he was a little better in the morning, though 
still very weak. He would have been unable to walk; he had 
strength enough left to sit on ahorse. 1 gave outers that he was 
on no account to go on foot, and resolved to let him ride my horse 
from time to time, should his own animal be unable to carry him 
through the drifts. 



150 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" My brother will be on horseback all the day. He will look well 
down the precipices," said Mohammed, with a chuckle. 

He had observed that the Englishman did not reiish much riding 
a few inches from a chasm, and Mohammed was rather amused to 
learn that his tellow-servant would now no longer have the chance 
of walking by the precipices. He himself, though not particularly 
brave in other respects, never seemed to valu« his neck when on 
horseback. No matter how steep the slopes might be, Mohammed 
seldom or ever took the trouble to dismount from his animal, which, 
under the influence of two good feeds of barley every day, had im- 
proved considerably since the march from Tokat. 

" Why should I dismount?" Mohammed would say. " If I am 
to slip and be killed, it will happen, and 1 cannot prevent it." 

The fejlow had been accustomed to a mountainous country all his 
life, and had previously been employed as a Zaptieh. This may ac- 
count for his coolness on horseback. But at a later period of the 
journey, when it was necessary for us to descend some rapidS in a 
boat, Mohammed showed unmistakable signs of fear, and was not at 
all consoled by Radford's remark that if he (Mohammed) were to be 
drowned, it would be his fate, and so would not signify. 

W e reached the crest of a lofty height. A wide stream appeared 
below our feet. 

"What is the name of that river?" 1 inquired. The welcome 
announcement, " The Prat," made me aware that at last 1 had 
arrived on the banks of the Euphrates — here a broad stream of about 
120 yards and nine or ten feet deep. Numerous bowlders half 
choked up the river's channel. 1'he waves splashed high in the air 
as they bounded over these obstacles; the sound of the troubled water 
could be distinctly heard even at our elevation. 

We continued *he maicb alongside the bank of the world -renowned 
river. The path was cut out of the solid rock. In some places the 
track was not above four feet wide. No balustrade or wall had been 
made to keep a horse or rider from slipping down the chasm. Pres- 
ently the road wound still higher amidst the mountains. The river 
beneath us seemed no broader than a silver thread. 

On we went. The sound of bells made us aware that there was a 
caravan approaching. Our guide rode first. A few moments later, 
about 100 mules, all laden with merchandise, could be seen coming 
toward our party. We should have to pass them; how to do so 
seemed a difficult problem to s^ve. The track was not wider than 
an average dinner- table. 

The guide soon settled (he matter. Taking a wriip, he struck the 
leading mule; the latter, to avoid punishment, ran with his load up 
a steep slope along the side of the path. The rest of the animals fol- 
lowed. There seemed to be scarcely foothold for a goat, but the ani- 
mals found one. They were removed from the path on which we 
stood, my people could advance in salety. 

Numbers of vines clad the lower part of the mountain slopes. 
Here and there a few chalets made of white stone could be seen. 
These, I was informed, belong to the wealthier Turks of Egin, who 
come to reside here during the grape season. 

Below us some fishermen were seated in a boat apparently made 
of basket-work. It looked like a Welsh coracle, but was of much 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIX OR. 151 



larger dimensions. They were engaged in fishing with a sort of 
dragnet, one ot them was busiJ y employed in mending a smaller one 
of the same kind. 

" Beautiful fish are caught here," said the guide. " Some are 
100 okes in weight (about 260 lbs). The people salt and eat them in 
the winter." 

We met some sick soldiers lying across the path. They had fallen 
out of the ranks, and were basking themselves in the sun, utterly 
regardless of the fact that their battalion was, ere this, a two hours' 
march ahead of them. 

" What is the matter with you," 1 inquired of one man. 

" Footsore," was his reply, at the same time pointing to his frost- 
bitten ieet. 

" A ad with you?" to another. 

" 1. EfTendi, 1 am weak and hungry." 

" What', have vou had no breakfast?" 

"No." 

1 then discovered that these sol fliers had been twenty-foui hours 
without food! There was no grumbling at this break down in the 
commissariat department. The men were solacing themselves with 
a cigarette, the property of one of the party, and which he was shar- 
ing ^vith his comrades." 

Our route leads us by some high rocks. They are broken into 
strange and fantastic forms: tbey rear themselves up on each bans 
of the Euphrates, and frown down on the waters below. Here 
domes, and pinnacles stand out in bold reliei ; there, the figure ot a 
man, shaped as it from the hands of a sculptor, is balanced on a pro- 
jecting stone, and totters on the brink of the abjss. 

Mulberry and apple-trees grow in wild profusion along the banks. 
We leave them behind. The track steadily ascends. We are more 
than 1,200 teet from the waters. 1 gaze down on the mightv river; 
it winds its serpent -like coils at oui feet. They twist and foam and 
lose themselves behind the crags. Higher we go. 

Vegetation disappears; we are in the realms of snow; continuing 
for some miles over the waste, the path descends into a valley. 
Egin lies before us. 

It is a long, straggling town, with a population of 10,000 souls, 
and much resembles Arabkir. We rode over the roofs of many 
houses ere we reached our destination, the house of an Armenian mer- 
chant, who had ridden out himself to place it at our disposal. The 
following day 1 called upon the Caimacan, a little man, who spoke 
Italian very fairly. He had been only seven months at his present 
post. The Cadi was seated at his side. After the governor had 
announced that the Conference was a failure— a piece ot news 
which 1 had heard before— the Cadi observed that he should like 
to tell me a story. 

"He relates a story very well," said the Caimacan. 

" We all like his stories," said the rest of the company. 

" By all means," 1 said; and the Cadi, thus encouraged, began. 

" Many thousand years ago there was a prophet — he was a great 
man, he was a marvel— his name was Daniel!" 

This last word wa3 duly repeated by the assembled guests; and 
the Caimacan gave a little cough. 



152 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



" 1 have heard this story before," he observed, " but it is a good 
one. Goon." 

" Well," continued the Cadi, " Daniel had a dream. In his dream 
he saw a young man. Samson was his name. Samson was beauti- 
fully dressed; his clothes alone would have cost all tne gold and 
caime that have ever been circulated at Constantinople. The rings 
on his fingers were encrusted with precious stones — beautiful stones 
— each one more bright and lovely than the eye ot the most beauti- 
ful whom mortal man has ever seen. 

" But Samson himself was pale, his features were wasted away; 
he was very thin, and, on caref uly looking at him, Daniel discov- 
ered that he was dead. There was a large scroll of paper lying at 
his feet. No other man could have deciphered the letters on it, but 
the prophet read them at once, and he galloped his eye over the 
scroll with the same rapidity as a hunter in pursuit of a hare—" 
He read very quickly!'' interrupted the Caimacan. 

" Daniel was a Hodja " (learned man), observed the Cadi, indig- 
nantly; " ot course he 'did! 

l< Samson had conquered almost the whole world," continued the 
speaker, " but there was one very poor and mountainous country 
which did not acknowledge him as its lord. 

" Samson had 10,000 wives, all of them fat and lovely. The keys 
of his treasure-chests were in themselves a load for 10,000 camels. 
He was all vigorous and able to enjoy every blessing which Allah 
had bestowed upon him—" 

" Was he not satisfied with 10,000 wives?" remarked one of the 
audience. 

"No," said the Cadi. "Some men are never satisfied; Samson 
/was one of them. He wanted more. His heart was not full; he 
wished to conquer the poor country, and take a few wives from the 
lovely daughters of the mountains. He came with an enormous 
army. The people fled. The troops ate up everything. There 
were no more provisions. There was nothing left, even for the king. 
Samson offered 10,000 sacks of gold for a handful of millet seed. 
It could not be purchased. The soldiers died, the sergeant died, 
the officers died, the Pashas died, and, last of all, Samson died! 

• " Let this be the fate of the Russians if they come here," added 
the Cadi. " Tzar has much land — he is rich — he has many more 
soldiers than we have; he has everything to make life nappy. 
Yet he is not content; he wishes to take from his poor neighbor the 
pittance which he possesses. Let Allah judge between him and us," 
continued the speaker. " And God alone knows who will be vic- 
torious!" 

" We shall beat them!" said the Caimacan. 
Soon afterward my visit came to an end. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 
L now went to the Armenian church. Lt was carpeted with thick 
Persian rugs like a mosque. Several pictures in gaudy frames were 
hung against the wall. The building was crowded with devotees; 
the galleries being filled with women; their faces were invisible, 
owing to the lattice^work. However, some bright eyes peering; in- 



<W HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MItfOR. 153 



quisitively through the holes in the screen were quite sufficient to 
turn a man's thoughts in their direction. 

The priest put on his robes — several little boys assisting him ia 
his toilette; a heavy, yellow silk garment, with a cross emblazoned 
In gold upon the back, was drawn on over his everyday apparel. 
Some more little boys bustled about with long candles, and seemed 
to do their best to get into each other's way; then the service began. 

Two songs were sung by the choir— first one for the Queen of 
England, as a sort of compliment to the nationality of the foreign 
visitor; and then another tor the Sultan. The old priest next ad- 
dressed the congregation, and said that they must do everything in 
their power to help the Sultan in this war against Kussia, who was 
a, mortal enemy to the Armenian religion. 

The Camiacan was standing by me in the church, and seemed 
pleased at the discourse. 

" It is good ! very good!'' hesaid. " 1 wonder it the priest means 
it.*' 

The worthy Turk's meditations were suddenly interrupted. 
Some insect had bitten him. 

" These Armenians are. very dirty, they do not wash," he added. 
" Let us go." 

Everybody bowed as he walked down the nave, and we then pro- 
ceeded to the Protestant church. 

This was nothing but a large room in the clergyman's house. On 
our entry, some boys sung a hymn in English. They pronounced 
the words tolerably well, though they were ignorant of their mean- 
ing, the clergyman who spoke our language having taught his pupils 
merely to read the Roman characters. There were no pictures or 
images of -any kind in the room. A simple baptismal font was its 
sole ornament. After the hymn had concluded, the clergyman, 
without putting on any extra vestments, addressed his congregation 
in a few straightforward and practical sentences, saying that as it 
was the duty of the Jews to pay tribute to Osesar, it was equally 
proper for all true Christians to respect the Turkish authorities; that 
the Turks were on the eve of a great struggle with a power which 
oppressed all religions but its own, and consequently it was the duty 
of all Armenian Protestants to aid the government, in the forthcom- 
ing struggle, and shed the last drop of their blood for the Padishah. 

The inhabitants of the town are not a trading community, most of 
them live by agriculture. There was a considerable amount of 
giumbling to be heard about the bankrupt state of the country ; 1 
learned that many of the farmers had invested their savings in Turk- 
ish bonds, and had lost their capital. A Greek doctor who gave me 
this information had been established for many years in Egin. 

" What do you think of the Turkish doclois?" 1 inquired. 

" They are very ignorant," he replied; " but what can you expect 
in a country where it is not permitted to study anatomy, etc., in a 
practical way?" 

" What, do they not allow dissection?" 1 aslsed. 

" No. And even if you were convinced that a patient had died of 
poison, it would be very difficult to obtain permission to make a 
post-mortem examination of his body. The result is that poisoners 
go unpunished. The Turkish surgeons are so ignorant that fehey 



154 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



can not even tie up an artery, much less perform an average opera 
tion. " 'ytui ,£<iitil;yd inoil WM'tJifsdoM bc'hopiho 'josW ^a"-' 
The Caimacan now joined in our conversation, which was in Ital- 
ian, and began to find fault with tne old school of Turks, which is 
an enemy to education, and bigoted about religious mutters. 

" I make no difference between a Christian or a Mussulman, "said 
the governor. " A.11 religions are good, provided that the man who 
practices them is honest. 

"What we require are schools for the elder Turks," he con- 
tinued; " something to force them to advance with the age, and to 
make. them foiget that old maxim, ' What was good for my father, 
is it not good enough for me?' Until they forget this, there will not 
be much improvement in Turkey. A company once offered to 
make a railway from Diarbekir to Constantinople, and if Sultan 
Abdul Aziz had not spent all the money he borrowed from you En- 
glish people in palaces and his harem, the railway might have been 
made. Meat is here only one penny a pound; at our seaports you 
have to pay fourpence for the same quantity. We have mines, too, 
but no means of transporting the mineral if we worked them. ]. 
have been at Egin six months," tie continued. "1 may be dis- 
missed at any moment. What inducement is there for a man to try 
and improve the condition of the people, when all his work may be 
upset by his successor? We Caimacans are underpaid," he added. 
" We have not enough to live upon. If we received a better salary, 
and our positions were more stable, there would be Jess bribery 
throughout the Turkish empire." 

* Do you believe that there are many Russian agents in the neigh- 
borhood?" 1 inquired. 

" Undoubtedly; particularly at Erzeroum, and there thev intrigue 
with the Armenian clergy. In the other towns the Armenians will 
not have much to say to them. The Russians are more unpopular 
near the frontier of the two empires than elsewhere. We are spoken 
of very harshly in Europe," continued the Caimacan. " The mas- 
sacres in Bulgaria are very Horrible, but they were the w ork of a 
few fanatics, and brought about by Russian instigation. It is hard 
upon us for people to judge of the entire Turkish nation by the mis- 
deeds of a few Circassians." 

My host insisted upon seeing me off, and the following morning 
we walked down to the narrow wooden bridge which spans the 
Euphrates— here about forty yards wide. 

After crossing the river, our course lay across the Hasta Dagh 
(mountain). Presently we came to a glacier. The frozen surface 
extended for at least one hundred yards. The incline was steeper 
than the roof of an average English house. 

How was this to be passed? Radford looked at Mohammed. The 
latter gave a grunt. 

" What do you think of it, Mohammed?" I asked. 
" Effendi, we shall go down very fast. If the Lord wills it, we 
shall not break our bones." 

i' If we do not take this route," said the guide, " we must make a 
detour for at least two hours. 1 think the horses can manage it, 
Effendi." 

" Very well," 1 said, " you can try." • 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



155 



The guide rode his hoise to the glacier. The poor animal trem- 
bled when he reached the brink. 

" Raide, get on!" cried Mohammed from behind, and, striking 
the quadruped on his flanks, the animal stretched his forelegs over 
the declivity, almost touching the slippery surface with his girth. 

Another crack with the whip, away went the guide and horse 
down the glacier. For the first fifty yards the man succeeded in 
keeping his steed's head straight. A slight inequality in the ice 
gave the animal's hoof a twist in another direction; horse and rider 
went round in mazy circles; they had nearly obtained the velocity 
of an express train, when they were suddenly brought up by a 
snow-drift. There was not much damage done, and now 1 prepared 
to make the descent. It was not an agreeable sensation. 1 was on 
the edge of the precipice. The yelling Mohammed was castigating 
my animal from behind. 1 felt very much like Mr. Winkle, as de- 
scribed in the " Pickwick Papers," the first time he was on skates. 
1 would have gladly given Mohammed five shillings or a new coat 
to desist from the flagellating process. However, the die was cast. 
My followers were looking on. What the guide had done it was 
very clear that an Englishman ought to do. 1 committed myself to 
Providence. Away we went. The steam roundabouts in the 
Champs Elysees, in Paris, revolve at a great pace; a slide down the 
artificial ice-hills in St. Petersburg will sometimes try a man's 
nerves; but the sensations experienced in these manner? of locomo- 
tion are nothing to what I felt when sliding down that glacier. Was 
1 on my horse or was I not? Now we were waltzing madly down 
the slippery surface, and then my boots were touching the ice itself, 
owing to my animal's position. One moment we ricochetted from 
a rough piece of the hard substance, and were flying in the air, as if 
jumping the Whisseodine brook; a second later we were buried, as 
the guide had been, in six feet of snow. 

"Next came the turn of my followers. Their descent was a fearful 
thing to witness, but, fortunately, not half so dangerous as it ap- 
peared. With the exceptiou of some damage to the luggage and 
saddlery, there was little harm done. 

"1 never thought as how a horse could skate, sir, before!" re- 
marked my English servant, as he slowly extricated himself from 
the snow-drift. " It was more than sliding, that it was— a cutting 
of figures of eight all down the root of a house! And then 1 was 
buried alive in snow, to finish up with! Mohammed will have 
something to pray about, if he has to go down any more of these 
hills, for nothing but Providence can save a man's neck in these 
here parts." 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

On we went, fortunately not down any more glaciers, and, after 
being upset about twenty times in the snow-drifts, reached Hasta 
Khau. This was a house built on the road-side for travelers. It 
was kept by an old Turk. According to him, the Kurds in the 
neighborhood were engaged all the summer in robbing their neigh- 
bors, and were hardly ever brought to justice. 

" They take our cattle," said the man, " and they bribe the police. 



156 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI2STOR. 



There is no sort of order here. What we want is our Sultan to be 

Padishah in his own dominions." 

1 subsequently heard from the English consul at Erzeroum a story 
which rather corroborated the Turk's account of the Kurds. 

It appeared that in the Delsin, not far from Erzingan, a major 
commanding a battalion of infantry received orders to apprehend a 
Kurdish chief. Somehow or other the Kurd heard of this. One 
day, taking with him about five thousand followers, he managed to 
surround the place where the troops were encamped. Riding" up to 
the commander's tent, he accosted the officer — who was much sur- 
prised at the unexpected presencs of the culprit— with the words: 
" Peace be with you! J have come to dine here this evening." 
It was a very disagreeable position for the major, but what could 
he do? His battalion had been taken unawares; it was surrounded 
by the Kurd's followers, and all of them were armed men. He put 
on the best face he could about the matter, and gave his guest an 
excellent dinner. The following morning the Kurd said to him: 

" 1 dined very well last night, and slept comfortably. 1 have ac- 
cepted your hospitality, and now you must accept mine. 1 am 
going to take you to dine with me. Kay, 1 am!" he continued, to 
the officer, who appeared a little indignant at the proposal, " and 
every man under your command as well. They shall all dine and 
sleep in my encampment this evening. 

" It was a disagreeable position for the major," observed the con- 
sul at Erzeroum, when he related the story to me. " He was ordered 
to arrest the Kurd, and now the Kurd was about to arrest him! 
However, resistance was useless. His battalion was surrounded by 
Kurds, who, at a sign f.iom their chief, would have massacred every 
Turk on the spot. The onlv thing for the officer to do was to ac- 
cept the invitation. The Kurd,. when the soldiers arrived at his 
mountain home, commanded his servants to make preparations for 
a feast. Several hundred sheep were killed, to be cooked for the 
occasion, and the stream on the hill-side ran red with blood of the 
slaughtered animals. 

After dinner the major tried very hard to persuade the Kurd to 
recognize the Sultan as his lord. 

" You need only acknowledge our Padishah," remarked the offi- 
cer; " you have 30,000 sheep; ^give 1,500 piastres (1<M.) a year to the 
Sultan. You have 10,000 retainers; give him ten to serve in his 
army. I can arrange the rest. You are a very rich man, but this 
need not be known at Constantinople." 

" I have never given anyone of my children to serve another mas- 
ter," replied the chieftain; proudly. " Y'our Padishah is Sultan at 
Stamboul, but I am Sultan heie!" 

The following morning tfce Kurd allowed the battalion to return 
to their quarters, and presented the major with an Arab charger as 
a memento of his visit. 

"All the circumstances were reported to the military authorities 
at Erzeroum," added the consul, when he related the story, "and 
the officer was afterward promoted." 

Shortly before leaving Hasta Khan, Mohammed came to me with 
a smile on his countenance". 1 at once thought that something dis- 
agreeable had happened. The Turk seldom indulged in a smile, 



01ST HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



157 



Radford, too, in spite of bis illness, seemed rather more cheerful 
than usual. 1 began to be a little alarmed. 

" What is the matter?" i inquired. 

"At— the horse!" said Mohammed. 

"Yes, sir," said Radford, who nad accompanied him, and had 
acquired the habit of sometimes interlarding his English with a few 
words of Turkish; " the At has a hawfui sore back, and all the 'air 
is off it." 

" Which horse?" 

" The old pack-horse, the roarer." 
Mohammed shook his head mournfully. 

" We had better sell nim," he said. V One of the Zaptiehs has a 
mule; he is not a big mule, but he is a nice animal, sleek and come- 
ly, besides being strong. The man says that if the Effendi will give 
him five liras and the horse which makes a noise, that we may have 
his mule." 

The animal in question was a brute which the gendarme rode, 
and which was always trying to run away. I had pieviously 
gathered from the fellow that his mule had escaped three times 
while he was being saddled. However, the gendarme had forgotten 
that he had told me of this, and in all probability had offered Mo- 
hammed a share of the five liras, should I be fool enough to accept 
the proposal. 

" Let me see the pack-saddle!" I exclaimed. 

On looking at it 1 found that by cutting out a considerable portion 
of the lining it would be possible to prevent any height pressing 
upon the horse's sore place. 

" He can carry this pack," 1 remarked to Mohammed. 

" If 1 cut the saddle he can," replied my servant; " but it will 
cost twenty piastres to mend it again." 

t* Yes," 1 observed, " and it will cost five liras to exchange the 
horses, besides which we should have a worse animal than at pre- 
sent." 

" The Effendi knotvs best," said the Zaptieh, with a grin. 
" He knows," said Mohammed. 

" Shall 1 have a little baksheesh?" remarked the gendarme, 
rather alarmed lest his endeavor to deceive mc might have done 
away with his chance of a present. 

" lnshallah!" 1 replied; and, this matter being arranged, we con- 
tinued our march acposs the mountains. 

Presently we had to descend almost to the bed of the Euphrates. 
Here there were traces of copper ore. A little further on we came 
to a place where what seemed to be iron ore was lying strewn along 
the mountain side; I was informed by the guide that a few miles to 
the east there is a substance in the earth which the villagers use as 
j fuel. According to my infoimant it is hard and black, and it gives 
a bright flame; so in all probability coal is also to be met with in 
these regions. 

as we approached Kemach the Euphrates became narrower; in 
many places it was not more than- thirty yards wide. The stream 
was very rapid. Any man, no matter how good a swimmer he 
might be, would have a poor chance for his life if he were to fall 
Into the torrent. Here and there large rocks and loose stones, which, 



158 



OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



Lave been washed down from the mountain sides, block up the 
channel; they check the waters for a second. The river bubbles 
and roais; it lashes furiously against the bowlders, and leaping over 
them, rushes headlong with a fall of at least four thousand feet to 
the ocean. 

The Caitnacan of Kernach and a few of his friends were engaged 
in playing at Djerrid near the outskirts of the town. It was a lovely 
scene. The sun was setting on the snow-capped mountains; the river 
ran at my feet; bright-colored vegetation and many-tinted rocks 
looked down upon us from either hand; cascades and waterfalls 
dashed over the lugged crags; while the Caimacan and his party, 
who were immensely excited with their game, shouted " Allah 
Allah " as they rode at each other and hurled the wooden missile. 

The governor stopped playing when he saw our party, and, i -iding 
up, asKed the Zaptieh who 1 was. He then introduced himself and 
the company to me. They had been busily engaged in learning 
drill all the morning. An order had been received from Constanti- 
nople for the Caimacan to form a National Guard. Every able- 
bodied man in the district had at once enrolled himself as a volunteer. 
On entering Kernach 1 was struck by a high rock, which might 
have been a miniature Gibraltar, and which stands immediately 
behind the town. The rock was about 500 feet in height, and a 
ruined citadel towers above the Euphrates and the town. « 

The Caimacan and his f riends were well mounted, their horses 
being of a very different stamp to those which t had seen during my 
march from Constantinople. They were most of them fifteen hands 
high, and one or two over sixteen. On inquiry, I found that they 
were Turcoman horses. I also learned that most of the animals in 
the district had been bought by government agents for the use of the 
army at Erzeroum. 

A-'large proportion of the houses in Kernach are constructed of 
dried mud. Numerous wells, with high cross-bars and long iron 
chains for buckets, were to be seen along our path. One of the 
faithful, on a tower above our heads, was calling the Mohammedans 
to prayer. His loud but melancholy strains w T ere being listened to 
with great attention by Mohammed and my English servant. It 
appeared that Mohammed, through some strange inadvertence, had 
omitted praying at midday. Radford was a little alarmed lest the 
Turk might make up for his shortcoming by an extra long prayer 
that evening, wliich would have kept him from attending to the 
horses. 



CHAPTER XXXV111. 

There are 800 houses, or about 4,000 inhabitants in Kernach, and 
barley is very plentiful throughout the district, the price for the 
maintenance of my five horses not exceeding sevenpenca per day. 

This town had been visited by an English traveler about five years 
pievious; whereas no Englishman, so far as 1 could learn, had been 
in Divriki or Arabkir in the memory of the oldest inhabitant. 

The Caimacan, who informed me about my compatriot having 
been in Kemach, was very curious to learn my opinion about the im* 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



159 



pending war; and when 1 told him that 1 believed England would 
remain neutral, remarked; 

"Yes, but if we beat Russia, will England permit us to take 
back the Caucasus?" 

" I really do not know, but 1 should hope so." 

" Well," continued the governor, " if we beat Russia this time, 
we ought to cripple her. We must take back the districts she has 
conquered in Central Asia, and give them to the original possessors, 
or else form one Mohammedan Empire in Central A.sia, under 
Yakoob Khan, who nominally acknowledges the Sultan. We 
ought to free the Poles in Poland, and give Germany the Baltic 
provinces. " 

" You seem to know a little about political geography," 1 ob- 
served. 

" Yes," said the Caimacan, " 1 take an interest in the subject, and 
1 love my country. Until we can hem Russia in on every side she 
will always be a thorn, not only in our side, but also in that of 
Europe. " 

" Well, wTiat should you do about the Crimea?" 1 inquired. 

" That we should keep ourselves. Russia would then have to be 
more or less an inland power, and Moscow would become her 
capital." 

" Do you like the Russian system of government?" inquired tne 
Caimacan. 

y No." 

"I am not surprised," said the official. "Foreigners say that 
there is no liberty in Turkey, but I should like to know which gov- 
ernment is the most liberal. Mohammedans tolerate every religion, 
while the Russians make converts by force, and flog women and 
children to induce them to change their faith.* The Russian faith 
is very different to the English religion, is it not?" he added. 

" Yes, we do not worship idols, or venerate mummified bodies." 

V What do you worship?" 

" The one true God, and Jesus Christ his Son." 

f We worship the one true God, and worship Him through Mo- 
hammed His Prophet. But Mohammedans dislike idols and all that, 
sort of thing, quite as much as you do." 

The following morning the Caimacan was up at daybreak to see 
me off. He accompanied us a little way on the road. The moon 
was throwing her pale beams on the old citadel as we rode beneath 
the turrets. In a few minutes we crossed the Euphrates on a 
narrow wooden bridge, and, continuing for a short distance over 
mountains, came again upon the valley of the river. Here there 
were greeu fields in abundance. The country in summer time is 
said to be rich in corn and barley. Hundreds of cattle and sheep, 
grazing on some rich pasture lands, testified to the wealth of the in- 
habitants. 

It was an eleven hours' march to Erzingan. By the time we 
neared that city our horses showed symptoms of being thoroughly 
exhausted. Indeed, there was no reason to be surprised at this. 

* The Caimacan did not exaggerate, judging by Consul -General Mansfield's 
official Report. See Appendix I. II. and III. 



160 O^T HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



They Lad marched a thousand miles since we left Constantinople. 
The last two hundred, miles had been exceptionally fatiguing, not 
only on account of the snow and constant mountain-climbing, but 
also owing to our high elevation and the rarefied nature of the at- 
mosphere. Radford was weak, and from being a fourteen-stone 
man had come down to about eleven. His clothes hung on his 
wasted limbs. Some rest would be absolutely necessaiy to enable 
him to reach Erzeroum. 

The road became much better as we entered the suburbs of 
Erzingan, and, to my surprise, ] was met by a man in a four- 
wheeled chaise. He announced that he was the intendant of Issek 
Pasha, the Governor of Sivas. The governor had written to him to 
say that 1 had promised to reside in his house during my stay at 
Erzingan. A servant advanced and took my horse; I dismounted, 
and getting into the vehicle, drove to the Pasna's residence. 

Some pretty Armenian women were standing on the roots of their 
houses. They were not so particular about veiling themselves as 
their compatriots in Sivas. They stared at the procession with 
wondering eyes. The Pasha's carriage was not often seen in the 
streets of Erzingan. it was the only vehicle of the kind within an 
area of 150 miles. It was only brought out on state occasions, 
religious ceremonies, or when some very important visitor arrived. 
This was quile enough to set the ladies in Erzingan on the qui vive; 
the European dresses of my servant and self whetted their curiosity 
still more. 

Erzinsan is different to either Egin or Arabkir, both of which 
towns are built upon the sides of a mountain. Erzingan stands in 
the middle of a large plain, the Kara Su— the Black YVater— as the 
Euphrates is here called, running through the plain a few miles 
south of the city. * 

I now made the acquaintance of a very intelligent Turk. He was 
an officer with the rank of major, but employed as the superinten 
dent of a laige manufactory, which had been established to supply 
the troops in Asia Minor with boots. He had spent three years in 
France, where he had studied everything connected with the trade 
in question. In addition to this he was a fair chemist and mineral- 

He informed me that there were ebony forests in the neighbor- 
hood of Erzeroum. A great deal of this wood used formerly to be 
bought by Armenian merchants, and dispatched to France. Of iate- 
years this brauch of industry has been neglected. Iron, silver, and 
gold, could be found here, but the people were much too idle to 
search for these metals. The lead- mines were worked to a small 
extent by the Kurds. These mountaineers required this substance for 
bullets and shot. The lead in the towns of Asia Minor was all brought 
from Constantinople. It was, consequently, very dear; this had led 
the Kurds to make use of the metal beneath their feet. According 
to my informant there is coal of a good quality in the neighborhood 
of Kemach. However, the peasantry do not like the idea, that this 
mineral may some day replace wood as an article of fuel. Cutting 
down trees is easy work in comparison with mining. The villagers 
do their best to keep the people in the towns from burning coal; and 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 161 



they make their livelihood by bringing firewood from the mountains 
and selling it at a large profit to the citizens. 

The government take twenty per cent, of the net produce of all 
mines which are worked in Anatolia, and only two-and-a-half per 
■cent, from the price fetched by sheep, oxen, and horses in the mar- 
ket. The result is that the people think it more profitable and less 
laborious to breed cattle, than to dig in the earth for treasure, 

1 called upon a relation of the Pasha at Sivas. He was a stout, 
middle-aged man, and at that time ill in bed. 1 was shown into his 
room. During my conversation with him, an Italian doctor came 
to see the patient. The medical gentleman was the only European 
} in Erzingan, he had been there half a century; his age, according 
to himself, being ninety-two years. The old man's appearance 
belied his assertion. He at once commenced talking with me in his 
native tongue. 

" What is the matter with the- invalid?" 1 inquired. 

4 4 Drink, my good sir, drink!" said the old gentleman. " He is 
forty, and 1 am over ninety, but, please God, as the Turks say, I 
-shall outlive him. If the upper classes of Mohammedans were only 
sober, they would live forever in this delightful climate. But what 
with their women, and what with their wine they shorten their exist- 
ence by at least thirty years. This man would have been dead ten 
jears ago if he had lived in Constantinople." 

"Why soV" 

" Because of the climate. He Would have drunk himself into a 
dropsy." 

44 What are you talking about?" said the sick man. 

" 1 was saying. Bey Effendi," said the doctor, 44 how very popular 
you are in the neighborhood, and how much every one loves you!" 

The sick man smiled benignantly, and the old gentleman con- 
tinued : 

" 1 should have been sorry if he had divined the topic of our con- 
versation. He would never have employed me again, and might 
have called in the Turkish practitioner, an ignorant ass, who does 
not know as much about anatomy as a butcher in the market, and 
who treats cases of inflammation by firing his patient." 

44 What! would he fire at the Bey's foot?" 1 inquired. 

44 God knows! but he is quite capable of doing so if the Bey would 
let him." 

The doctor now felt his patient's pulse, and administered a few 
words of consolation; then, promising to send some medicine, he 
left the room. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 
1 next visited the Mutasarraf Pasha, the civil governor of Erzin- 
gan. He was an active little man, of about sixty years of age, full 
of energy. He seemed to have more of the Gaul than the Osmanli in 
his disposition. Formerly he had been civil governor at Widdin. 
Whilst he occupied this post some of his Zeptieh had arrested a Rus- 
sian. The latter had documents on his person which clearly showed 
that he was an agent of a society in Moscow, formed with the object 
of creating a revolution in Bulgaria. Abdul Aziz was then Sultan 4 

6 



162 OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MOTOR.' 

and the Mutasarraf Pasha forwarded the documents to Constanti- 
nople. Ignatieff's influence was at that time paramount with the 
Sultan. No notice was taken of the papers. Very shortly afterward 
the Pasha was removed from Widdin toErzinghan." 

" Were there any names upon the document?" 1 inquired. 
" Yes, names implicating some very high Russian functionaries, 
1 hope that we shall be soon engaged in hostilities with. Russia," said 
the Pasha. " Ever since the battle of Sedan, she has been secretly 
at war with Turkey, and trying to stab us under the guise of friend- 

~ ship.* lgnatieff encouraged Abdul Aziz in his extravagance. He 
knew that this would lead to bankruptcy : and to a rupture of the 
alliance with England; and you may depend upon it, that the Rus~ 

- sian am bassador was one of the first men to advise his majesty to 
repudiate the debt. They are very clever, these Russian diplomats," 
continued the Pasha; " and however poor Russia may be, she has al- 

* ways enough gold to sow the seeds of sedition and rebellion iu her 
neighbor's territory. You will find this out foi yourselves some;, 
day." 
" How so." 

"When she touches your Indian frontier; by that time you will 
have enough to do to keep your native troops in order. Will England 
help us in this war?" 

H 1 do not know; but it is not likely. You see the Turkish gov- 
ernment is very unpopular with us, because it does not pay the in- 
terest of its debts, and also because of the massacres which have, 
taken place in Bulgaria." 

" Say for the first reason," replied the Pasha, " and 1 agree with, 
you, for you English, by all accounts, dearly love your gold. How- 
ever, 1 should have thought that by this time your people had learned' 
; that we were not the originators of the massacres in Bulgaria." 

" Who caused them, the Russians?" 

The Pasha nodded his head affirmatively. 

" If there be a war in Asia Minor, they will do their best to excite 
1 our Kurds to massacre the Armenians in the neighborhood of Van^ 
and will then throw all the blame on our soldiers." 

" Do you think that the Russians will be able to conquer you in 
Asia Minor?" 1 inquired. 

"IMo, we are the strongest in this part of the world. The 
Georgians, Tartars, and Circassians hate the Russians, and will rise 
upon them; besides that, there are no roads." 

" But Russia has taken Kars before." 

" Yes, but she will not do so "this time, and I should not be sur- 
prised if we were to go to Tiflis instead. ' ' 

This 1 subsequently found to be the prevailing opinion amidst all 
the civil and military Pashas in Asia Minor. 

" What do you think will be the final result of the war?" i now 
inquired of the Pasha. 

He shook his head sorrowfully. 

" If we have no ally, it will go hard with us; but your country- 
men will be mad ii they do not help us." 

* These remarks of the Mutasarraf Pasha resemble those made on the same 
Subject by other Pashas in Asia Minor. All these Turkish gentlemen had the- 
same opinion of the Russian Ambassador. 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 163 
Why so?" 

" Because when we find that we have no chance against our foe, 
^hat is to prevent us from turning round and allying ourselves 
•with him; that alternative might be preferable to annihilation. And 
when Russia has our fleet, the Dardanelles, Batoum, and another 
port or so on the Black fcea, she might leave us aione at Constanti- 
nople. Anyhow, if she has once "crushed us, we shall no longer 
have the power of iiltirig our heads, and however much we may dis- 
like the alternative of slavery or destruction, shall end by being 
menials of the Russians." 

The following day I walked with the Turkish major to see his 
boot factor:-" ; a large building on the outskirts of the town. Four 
hundred and fifty men are employed in the business. 

An order had arrived from Constantinople for ail the workmen to 
"be drilled. Two hours per day had been allotted for this purpose. 

The shoemakers were drawn up in two ranks outside the building. 

The officer who was instructing ihem commenced putting his men 
through the bayonet exercise. Many of the townspeople were 
amongst the spectators. They were greatly pleased at the eager way 
m which the men gave their thrusts into the air. 
- " If we only had some Russians to run through!" said a corpulent, 
middle-aged Turk. 

" Ah! if we had," replied his friend. ** Our bootmakers alone 
would be enough to make all the Cossacks turn pale and run!" 

The manufactory was clean, and great order prevailed in the ar- 
rangements. Forty thousand pairs of boots had been made during 
the previous two months, my companion had received instructions 
from the authorities to forward 12,000 more to Erzeroum. The 
order had only just been issued, and was urgent. The result was 
that the leather which under ordinary circumstances would have 
been left in the tan for four months could only be soaked for five 
weeks. The major complained that he had not been supplied either 
with a machine to triturate the bark, or with a steam-cutter's machine, 
which would have very much facilitated the work. 

"lhave written to the authorities at Constantinople about the 
matter," remarked the officer; " a reply has come to say that the 
articles in question are on their way. They will probably arrive 
when the war is over," added the officer, despondently, " In the 
meantime some of our soldiers will hare to march barefoot." 

The thread used in the manufacture came from an English firm. 
Finlayson, Bousfield & Co., of Glasgow; and the officer, as he 
showed me some of the packets, observed: " That formerly he had 
^een supplied with French thread. It was a little cheaper than the 
•sort now employed; but after some trials he had discovered that the 
English article was three times as durable, and consequently far 
more economical in the long-iun." 

The boots manufactured In the establishment were made to lace 
high up over the ankle and with very thick soles. They are much 
heavier than those furnished to English troops, and would be apt to 
tire the soldiers during a long day's march. In one room a number 
•of Armenian and Turkish lads were working sewing-machines. 

All the hands in the manufactory were paid by piecework. The 
boys could earn from one to five piastres per day, and some of the 



164 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



men forty. _ Owing to the pressure of business, the workmen were 
employed sixteen hours per day, fourteen hours in the manufactory,, 
and two at drill. 

1 now went to the jail. Here there were nieteen prisoners. They 
were made up of seventeen Mohammedans and two Christians; the 
latter had been arrested, one for coining money, the other for mur- 
dering his wife. Whilst walking through the building, 1 heard a 
great noise in one ot the cells, and a woman's voice. 

'* What is she doing?" I inquired of the jailer. 

" LfLendi, it is a curious case," said the man; " sue has a husband, 
but is very much in love with a young Armenian shopkeeper. . The- 
latter is a married man, and does not return the enamored female's 
affections; however, she is continually leaving her husband's house 
and invading the Armenian's premises. The husband became an- 
noyed and. complained — he thinks that the Armenian encourages his 
wife. Anyhow," continued the official, "the affair created a 
scandal, the Cadi did not like it; he has ordered the woman to bo- 
shut up for a day or two, and the Armenian as well." 

" What, log ether?" 

"No, Effendi, apart: it is rather hard upon the man," he added;, 
" but who knows? perhaps he encouraged her." 
" Why is she making that noise?" 

" Because she has learned that the Armenian is in the prison, and 
she wishes to be confined in the same cell with him. He does not 
want it himself, and of course it would not do; for what would the 
husband say? A jealous female is a first cousin of the devil," 
continued the jailer; "it is bad enough when she is jealous of her 
own husband, but when she is jealous of some other woman's, that 
is ten times worse." 



CHAPTER XL. 

Later in the day, the Mutasarraf called af my house, and at once 
commenced his favorite theme, politics. 

* ' What do the people in your country say about Russia's con- 
duct in Servia?" 

" Many of them do not like it," I replied. 

" It was a cowardly act on the part of the Tzar, was it not?" said 
the Pasha; " he pretended to be at peace with our Sultan, and al- 
lowed Russian officers and soldiers to take part in the fight against 
us. 1 tell you what it is," added the speaker, " Ignatieff wishes to 
cut off another arm from Turkey, by making Bulgaria independent, 
like Servia. If we are to i^ie, better to perish at once than to be torn 
to pieces limb by limb!" 

" But 1 thought you told me this morning that in your opinion, 
sooner than this should occur, your government ought to join. 
Russia?" 

" Yes, I did," said the Pasha, " and if we were to join Russia 
and attack Europe, who will do nothing for us now, what would 
happen then?" 

" Yes; what would happen then?" said the Hodja, or schoolmas- 
ter, a friend of the Pasha, and who had accompanied him during 
Ms visit. 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA illXOR. 



165 



t£ Europe would probably swallow up both Turkey and Russia!" 
" You do not really think so?" said the Pasha. 
"We have a great many troops," said the Hodja. 
" Yes; but not many officers." 

" He is right, " said the Pasha, sadly; "our officers have not 
much brain, but we have one chance," he added. 
" What is it?" 

" ]f the Circassians were to rise, the Russians would have so much 
-on their hands that they would be unable to advance." 
" Is it likely that there will be a rising?" 

" There is sure to be one," said the Pasha; " but it is doubtful 
■whether -it will be general, or confined to some districts;" ana shak- 
ing hands -with me" he left the room with his companion. 

The Pasha was an energetic mam and very popular with the in- 
habitants. He had been at' Erzingan but a few months. He had 
found time to put the streets in Tolerable order, and to make the- 
town one of the cleanest in Anatolia. He was desirous of purchas- 
ing some machinery with the object of making cloth from the cot- 
ton which grows in this district. As it is, the~raw cotton is sent to 
England, and is then manufactured into the articles required. The 
Pasha would have liked to save all this expense, and have the work 
done on the spot. He had tried to form a company, with the object 
of realizing his idea; but there was no energy in Erzingan — the peo- 
ple were afraid of risking the little money they possessed; it was 
impossible to carry the project into execution. 

1 now went to the Mohammedan school. 

" Will you ask the boys some questions?" said the Hodja. 

1 remembered the success which I had obtained with the sum put 
by me to the lads at Yuzgat, and at once gave it. The schoolmaster 
was at his wits' end for a solution. However, later in the day he 
came to my house and said : 

"■ You set me a sum this morning — 1 cannot do it. 1 should like 
to ask you one." 

" Go' on," 1 remarked. 

" Three men," said the Hodja, " who were accompanied by their 
three wives, arrived at a river. The husbands were all jealous of 
their wives. There was one boat in which to take the parly. The 
bark would only hold two persons, and no woman could be trusted 
by her husband unless there were two men with her. How did 
they cross the river?" 

" Can you do it?" said the schoolmaster. 

" 1 will think it over," 1 replied. 

" This sum has puzzled our Mutasarraf for six months," said the 
Hodja; * ( it is a beautiful sum." 

" Do you know the answer?" 1 inquired. 

" Unfortunately, 1 have forgotten it," he replied. 

1 proceeded to visit the mosque, which was being built at the ex- 
pense of Issek Pasha, governor of Sivas. It had been in the course 
ot construction for three years, and was only half finished. The 
walls were made of stone and marble, which had been brought from 
some quarries, about eight miles from the town. It was said that 
when the mosque was finished, it would be the handsomest one in 
Anatolia, 



166 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



1 met the Italian doctor as I was returning to rny quarters. 

" So you liave seen the mosque"?" he said. 

"Yes." 

"Well," he continued, "the Turks in some way resemble us 
•Catholics. Issek Pacha probably thinks that by building a rnagni- 
eent mosque, he will be less likely to be fried in a future state of 
existence; and we are told that if we leave money to the priests, to 
say masses for our souls, we shall not have to remain so long in 
purgatory." 

* " It al] comes to the same thing," said the old gentleman. " It 
Is no matter where a man is born, whether in the Mohammedan East 
or in the Christian West, his Imaum or priest will always get money 
out of him in some manner or other." 

" In this instance," i remarked, " the money has gone to build a 
mosque and not to lmaums." 

" Yes," said the Italian, " but whenever a priest or dervish asks a 
good Mohammedan for anything the latter will never refuse. The 
result is that the religious profession in Turkey is made up of as 
many idlers and beggars as can be seen in my own country." 

Provisions, according to the doctor, were not very dear in Erz- 
jngan. A good sheep could be bought for six shillings; 80 eggs for 
a shilling; two pounds and a half of bread, or rather of the thin un- 
leavened cake which takes the place of the staff of life in Anatolia, 
lor a penny; whilst eight pounds of potatoes could be purchased for 
the same price. A nice-looking horse would not cost more than 101. 
Fuel was dear in proportion to the other articles of consumption — 
charcoal costing a farthing the pound. 

" Erzingan is not a bad place tor poor people to live in," added 
the old doctor. " 1 have resided here nearly halt a century. A man 
can get on very well if he has" 501. a year. " 

On leaving the town 1 found a fair carriage road, which led in 
the direction of Erzeroum. This state of things was not to last 
long, and after marching two or three miles we were riding once 
more along a track. 

MaTshes~extended for some distance on either side of our route. 
A number of geese and ducks, some of the latter of a very peculiar 
breed and different to any 1 had hitherto seen, were feeding in the 
fields around us. I tried to approach them, so as to have a shot, as 
goose or duck would have been an agreeable change to the chicken 
fare which awaited us in every village. But the wild geese in Ana- 
tolia are quite as wary as their kindred on this side the Channel. It 
was impossible to stalk them. 

1 began to disbelieve in the stories which have been written about 
tne amount of sport which can be obtained in Anatolia. With the 
exception of a few snipe, partridges, and hares, 1 had seen literally 
nothing in the shape of game since our departure from Constantino- 
ple. Deer were said to exist in some of the forests, but I had never 
even heard of any being exposed for sale in the different markets. 

Should an Englishman ever think of undertaking a journey 
through Anatolia, and have the idea that he will be able to combine 
shooting with the pleasure of travel, he will find himself ver^ much 
■mistaken. 

Now we overtook three hundred Kurds — redif soldiers on the 



OiT HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 167 



match to Erzeroum. There were do officers with them. The men 
had to find their way as best they could to their destination. They 
were armed with needle rifles, but had no uniform, and were clad 
for the most part in rags and tatters. Mnny of them had no shoes 
or even slippers, but were walking with bare feet through the snow. 
* A few men were liding on mules, and on a closer inspection 1 found 
that these poor fellows had been frost-bitten. Some of them had 
lost their toes On the march. 



CHAPTER XL1. 
" It was bitterly cold as we gradually climbed the mountains which, 
lie between Erzingan and Erzeroum /and after a nine hours' march 
we halted for the night at a little village called Delan. There were 
only twelve mud hovels. The three hundred Kurds stowed theni- 

i selves away as best they could. 1 was fortunate enough to obtain 
a resting-place in a stable. My horses were packed together as 
closely as possible on one side of the building. There was just room 

_ for my followers and myself on the other. 

The inhabitants of this little hamlet were Kurds, and the people 
did their best to make the newly-arrived soldiers comfortable. The 
latter were all fed at the expense of the villagers ; each inhabitant 
giving as much bread as he could spare toward the rations of his 
countrymen. So far as I could learn, none of the soldiers had any 

| money with them, and it was a five days' march to Erzerourm But 
they evidently had solved the problem of how to get on without 
money; a week later 1 saw them arrive at their destination, and, 
with the exception of a few men laid up with frost-bite, they were 
not much the worse for their journey. 

It was very slippery as we descended the slope which leads from 
Delan. We drove our horses before us; the little animals tacking- 
from side to side, like ships beating against the wind, and putting 

- their feet down with the greatest caution, so as to make sure of the 
ground before them. We then had to lead the animals up the mount- 
ains, Radford having great difficulty in wading through the snow, 
owing to his state of debility. Fortunately we soon arrived at a 
place where it was possible to ride. Here another path branched oft 
to the village of Kargan, but continuing by our old track we shortly 
came to a fine stone bridge, cailed the Kutta Kupri. It is about sev- 
enty-five yards wide, and spans the river Euphrates. 

We passed through a series of natural basins, each of them two or 
three miles in diameter, and after an eight hours' tiring march put 
up for the night in the village of Mohallata. It contains about 1,000 
houses, and a small barracks, with quarters for a squadron of 
Zaptiehs. 

A battalion of redifs had also halted here. The men had marched 
from Erzingan without having had anything to eat since they left 
that town— the soldiers had gone more than thirty hours without 
food. There were no grumblers in the ranks. 

One of the sergeants appeared rather an intelligent fellow; 1 spoke 
to him about the matter. 

"We came to a village," he said; " there was nothing to eat, and 
so we went without our dinners." 



168 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



*' Did the men make any remarks?" 

" No, Effendi, they knew that the people would have given them 
food it they had any to spare. When we beat the Russians, go to 
St. Petersburg and conquer all their country for our Padishah," 
said the sergeant, " we shall have many paras, there will be plenty 
to eat. But our Padishah is poor novt," continued the man, sor- 
rowfully, " he can not give us any pay, there is no money in Stam- 
boul. " 

The captain of the Zaptiehs accompanied me in my walk through 
the barracks. This officer was anxious to obtain his promotion. 

"I am forty years of age," he remarked, " and a captain's pay 
i is very little. It is not enough for me to keep a wife. 1 want (o be 
married, but before that event can take place 1 must be a major. 
Shall you see the Pasha at Erzeroum?" he added. 

" "Will you speak to him for me, and recommend me for pro- 
motion?" 

" How can 1? 1 do not belong to your army, and am only here 
.as a traveler." ftaitsraoa asttiL i 

" But you are an Englishman!" exclaimed the Zaptieh, excitedly. 
" That is quite sufficient. The Pasha would know that no En- 
glishman would recommend any one without a reason. 1 should be 

promoted!" -•//> :>;f«miv* via rd no fjsitt* 

" My good sir," 1 observed, " 1 have only seen you for a few 
minutes; how could 1 solicit your promotion on the ground of your 
merits?" 

The captain was not to bejrebuffed. 

" ]. will write down my name," he said, " and then you will 
speak to the Pasha. ' ' 

Taking a dirty piece of paper from his pocket, he scribbled some- 
thing and handed it to me. 

Forward again for twelve more hours, our horses slipping up, or 
varying the performance by falling into snow-drifts, and we came 
to a~spot where the Erzingan tracJs meets the Trebizond and Erzeroum 
road. Here most of the snow had been cleared away. There was 
but little to impede our progress. Large caverns of several hundreds 
of horses and mules were bringing cartridges from Trebizond; 
bands of Bashi Bazouks were with them and on the march to 

We rode along the left bank of the Kara Su (Black Water), the 
name given to the Euphrates in this district, and presently were 
met by some Zaptiehs. Their leader, advancing a few steps, said 
that he had been ordered by the Pasha to meet me and escort my 
party into the town. 

Erzeroum lies at one end of a large plain. It is surrounded on 
the north, south and east sides by hills. A few detached forts had 
been thrown upon these heights. The town itself is encircled by an 
entrenchment of loose earth — this defense was in no place more than 
three quarters of a mile from the city. 

1 rode to Ismail Pasha's residence. It is a large building in the 
<aniddle of the town, and is also used as an office by the military 
JPasha. 

Ismail, the civil governor, is a Kurd by birth. Some of his fe- 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



male relatives have made influential marriages ; this, added to the 
talents which the Pasha possesses, has raised him to his present high 
position. 

He did not think that war would take place between Turkey and 
* Russia. A pacific speech made by Lord Derby had been telegraphed 
from London to Erzeroum. It was the opinion of many of the 
townspeople that the Tzar did not mean to break the peace. 

" It will be much better tor us it we fight now," said the Pasha, 
» when he gave me the above-mentioned information. "If war is 
postponed7 Russia will continue her intrigues* amidst our Christian 
population." 

A few months previous the Tzar had sent a decoration to the 
Armenian bishop of Erzeioum. 

The order had been forwarded through the Russian consul. The 
latter, instead of asking Ismail to give "the decoration to the bishop, 

- had ignored the Pasha altogether, and had not even invited him to 
" the ceremony. 

This had been converted into an Armenian demonstration. The 
relations between the Mohammedans and Christians were not so* 
friendly as could be desired. 

Erzeroum is the principal depot for the caravan trade which 
is carried on by the merchants in Teheran and their confreres in 
Constantinople, limbaki, the tobacco vised in nargilehs, is ex- 
: ported from Persia to this part of Asia Minor. Of late, the 
Turkish authorities have increased the duty on timbaki from 
eight to seventy- six per cent. This has been done in consequence 
of many Turks liking the Persian plant better than that which 
. is grotvn in their- own country. The price of ordinary timbaki 

- was formerly only twenty-five piastres an oke at Constantinople, 
whilst Turkish tobacco of the same quality costs as much as 
sixty- one. 

Ismail Pasha was doubtful whether in the event of war he would 
be able to keep, the Kurds quiet in the neighborhood of Ezeroum. 
Russian agents had been busily engaged for some time past in at- 
tempting to suborn these mountaineers. Money had been lavished 
■upon their chief's. Anxiety was expressed as to whicli side they 
would take. 

"The Russians are nearly as poor as we are," continued the 
Pasha, "but they have enough money left for the purpose of 
intrigue. If the war breaks out, it is not at all improbable that 
they will bring about a massacre of Christians in Asia Minor. 
Some of the Kurds would obey any order they might receive 
from St. Petersburg. It would go very hard with us in the 
court of European public opinion, if any fresh rebellions had to 
be suppressed by strong measures on our part." 



CHAPTER XL1I. 
An Armenian, the Pasha's interpreter, now entered the room, 
Presently he observed that the Russian consul at Erzeroum had 
just received a telegram. 

* See Consul Tajior's Repoi-t on this subject, Appendix XII. 



170 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI^OR. 



"He read it to me himself," said the Armenian. "He wants 
Its contents to be made known to you. It is from the Russian 
-authorities in the Caucasus, and has come via Batoum. It runs 
as follows: 'Two months ago, an Englishman, a certain Cap- 
tain Burnaby, left Constantinople, with the object of traveling in 
Asia Minor. He is a desperate enemy (un ennemi acharne) of 
Hussia. We have lost all traces of him since his departure from 
Stamboul. We believe that the real object of his journey is to pass 
the frontier, and enter Russia. Do your best, sir, to discover the 
whereabouts of this aforesaid captain. Find means to inform him 
that in the event of his enteiing our territory, he will be immediate- 
ly expelled.' " 

The following day 1 went to the English consulate. Mr. Zohrab 
is our consul in Erzeroum. He is a good Turkish scholar, besides 
knowing most of the European languages. 

1 soon learned that there was no exaggeration in the interpreter's 
story. It was said that the Russians liad" procured my photograph, 
and hung it up in all the frontier stations, so as to enable their 
officers to recognize me should I attempt to enter Russian territory. 

I must say that I was rather surprised to find that the Paternal 
government still took so much interest in my movements. From the 
fact of the Russian agents having lost all trace of me since 1 left 
Constantinople, 1 presume that my movements were watched during 
our journey on the steamer, and also in Ihe capital. This was 
doubtless done with a kind motive, and to prevent my being assault- 
ed by any fanatical Mussulmans. When 1 was in St. Petersburg, 
only twelve months previous, General Milutin, the Russian Minister 
of War, had shown a most fatherly interest in my safety; he was 
much alarmed lest 1 might be assassinated by the Khivans or Tur- 
comans in Central Asia." It was very kind of him. 1 had evidently 
not sufficiently appreciated the philanthropy of that gallant officer, 
and of the government which he serves. 

1 could hardly believe that the Russian authorities were so inter- 
ested in my welfare as to set spies to travel with me on board a 
steamer or to track my steps in Constantinople. 

I much regret that my short stay in that city had not permitted 
me to call upon an old acquaintance, General IgnatiefT, the Russian 
embassador to the Porte. 1 should then have been able to give his 
excellency my solemn assurances that 1 had not the slightest inten- 
tion to cross the Russo-Turkish frontier. However, possibly the 
term " solemn assurances " does not convey quite the same meaning 
to a Muscovile diplomate as to an English officer; it might have 
Tbeen that his excellency would not have placed any reliance on my 
promises. 

The odd part of the m atter was that 1 had not even dreamed of 
entering the Tzar's dominions. 1 was not ignorant of the state of 
Russia. Mr. Schuyler had proclaimed to the world that several of 
the Tzar's officials were corrupt. The scarcity of gold and Ihe over- 
whelming paper currency proved the bankrupt state of the country. 
Every traveler could testify that many of the inhabitants of Euro- 
pean Russia were drunkards. Major Wood in his book, the " Sea 
of Aral," had declared that some of the conquerors m Central Asia 
were worse. Th#se facts were well known throughout Europe. I 



0^ HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIJSTQR. 171 

had traveled in Russia myself. Then how could the Russian au- 
thorities be so childish as to think that 1, of all people, wished to 
revisit the empire? On second thoughts, I could only account for 
it by the supposition that they were afraid lest 1 should travel 
through the Caucasus, and discover their method of dealing with 
the Circassians. 

A tew years ago, a British consul called attention, in an official 
report, to this subject. From what the Circassians whom 1 had met 
during my journey had said, there was every reason to believe that 
the following manner of treating Circassian ladies is still sometimes 
resorted to by the Russian promoters of Christianity and civilization. 
Consul Dickson remarks, in a dispatch dated Soukoum Kale, 
March 17th, 1864: " A Russian detachment captured the village of 
Toobeh, inhabited by about 100 Abadzekh, and after these people 
had surrendered themselves prisoners, they were all massacred by 
the Russian troops. AMONG THE VICTIMS WERE TWO 
"WOMEN IN AN ADVANCED STATE OF PREGNANCY, 
AND FIVE CHILDREN." 

Some people who call themselves Christians, and who sympa- 
thize, or for political motives pretend to sympathize with Russia, 
attempt to gloss over these facts by observing that the Circassians 
are a nation of freebooters, and that it is necessary to rule them with 
a rod of iron, and through their fears. So in order to strike terror 
into thieves and other malefactors, it is justifiable to murder preg- 
nant women, and fire upon little children! 

Amongst other ways of compelling the Circassians to submit to 
their conquerors was one so fiendish, that if proof was not at hand 
to confirm the statement, 1 should hesitate to place it before the 
reader. 

In order to frighten the mountaineers and civilize them d la 
Russe, the Tzar's soldiers cut off the heads and scooped out the eyes 
of several men, women and children; then nailing the eyeless heads 
on trees, they placed placards underneath them, saying, " Go now 
and complain to the Kralli of the English, and ask her to send you. 
an oculist. ' ' 

An Englishman, Mr. Stewart Rolland, of Dibden, Hants, has 
traveled in Circassia. He can authenticate my statement. . One of 
these blood-stained placards is in his possession. He will show it to 
any one who wishes to see for himself a proof of Russian civilization, 

It may be asked why these Muscovite gentlemen were so invete- 
rate against Great Britain. The Circassians formerly were of opin- 
ion that England would help them against their foe. Some years 
ago* they actually sent two chiefs, to state their grievances to the 
people of this country. These chiefs being asked why they counted 
upon England's good offices, said: 

V We have been told that the English nation is a great nation, and 
a nation that protects the distressed. Our wives and our children, 
our little ones and our old men said to us with groans and tears, 
' You must go to that nation, and get us help. ' And we replied, 
' We will go, and we will tell that nation that if they do not give us 
help we shall become the slaves of Russia, or shall be destroyed by 



* See statement made by the Circassian Deputies, Appendices IX. and X. 



172 ox horseback: through asia mikor. 

Russia. "We grown men will not "become slaves, but who knows 
what will happen to those who come after us; and once enslaved, 
they will be an army in the hands of Russia to attack the great En- 
glish nation.' " 

The Circassian chiefs visited England in 1862. Some Englishmen 
thought {hat it would be dangerous to interfere with a strong .power 
Hke Russia, for the sake of a few mountaineers. The assistance 
asked for was denied. The Russian authorities did not value the 
Caucasus so lightly as our English officials. 

This can be shown by the following extract* from a memoir 
drawn up by the Emperor Nicholas foi the instruction of" the pres- 
ent Emperor Alexander : 

*' Our inheritance is the East, and we must not suffer our activity 
in that quarter to relax for a single moment. Our aim is, and re- 
mains, Constantinople, which is destined in our hands to become 
the center of the world, and the eternal door to Asia. For a long 
time England has had the supremacy of the ocean; but the same 
position whicn we have attained on land will be occupied by our 
maritime power. The possession of Constantinople, the Dardanelles, 
the whole literal of the Black Sea are indispensable to us. The sea 
is to become one great Russian port and cruising-ground for our fleets. 
The Emperor Alexander claimed Constantinople and the Dardan- 
elles, when Napoleon proposed the partition of Turkey to him. At 
a later period, at the Congress of Vienna, he himself made a like 
proposal. The great Catherine foretold in prophetical spirit, that the 
execution of the grand scheme w r ould be reserved for her second 
grandson. The Emperor Nicholas has taken the task upon himself. 
Everything of a higher order on which Mussulman life rests has" 
disappeared. Old forms and habits are upset; all higher education 
and activity are wanting; the complete dissolution is near at hand. 
Europe will try to oppose our taking possession of Turkey. Our 
conquest advances step by step, without any considerable sacrifice 
on our part. It extends already to the vicinity of Stamboul. Our 
apparent moderation restrains even our enemies from taking up 
arms. Things, too, are not quite ripe yet. The erection of forts and 
the arming of all important spots on the Blacii Sea is an indispensable 
preliminary. We Jiave to continue our struggle with the tribes of 
the Caucasus. It is sometimes troublesome, but it exercises our 
armies, and covers our preparations in the Black Sea. Our modera- 
tion in the Treaty of Adrianople deprived England itself, of every 
pretext for interference; yet w^e obtained everything that we wanted. 
By fostering Egypt we continued afterward to weaken Turkey. 
Events of the utmost importance to the splendor of our arms are not 
far distant. TVe keep the divan in good disposition toward us, and 
at the same time in dependence upon us. It is most important to 
confirm the Sultan in his pseudo-reforms, and to push him on in the 
same way; but it will be expedient to throw" obstacles in the way of 
any real improvement for the military regeneration. Of equal im- 
portance is it that the Porte should never get clear of financial em- 
barrassment. " 

* This extract is quoted from a remarkable pamphlet, entitled " Cireassia," 
published by Hardwicke in 1862. 



ON" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MLtfOR. 173 



The possession of the Caucasus is undoubtedly most important to 
Russia. It enables her to make prepaiations for a march westward 
toward Scutari, and another southward in the direction of the Persian 
Gulf, without considering the possibility of her some day taking a 
fancy to the Bey of Iskenderoon. 

Should Russia ever take possession of Armenia,* Persia would oe 
at the mercy of the Tzar. The latter would command the highlands 
of Asia Minor. He could descend upon the valleysf of the Euphrates 
and Tigris. J Syria would be exposed to his attack. We should 
have to be on our guard lest he might wish to invade Egypt. It ia 
quite true that England could easily defend. Syria against all the 
Tzar's forces— but this would cost money. We should have to in- 
crease our military expenditure by several millions a year. This 
would not be agreeable to the British tax- payer. 

People may argue that the Caucasus is far-off from the points 
which 1 have mentioned; so it is; the Russian frontier town in Asia 
Minor, Gumri, is more than one thousand miles from Scutari. It is 
not likely that in one, two, or even three campaigns, the Tzar's 
troops would be able to reach that town. The policy of the Russian 
officials is a safe one. They do not attempt to swallow at one time 
more territory than'they can easily digest. 

This is what the possession of the Caucasus means to Russia. 
Should the fortune of war ever enable us once again to place our 
heel upon the throat of the Muscovite, we must not forget the Cir- 
cassians. The people ought to be freed to act as a barrier between 
Russia and the Sultan's eastern dominions. 



CHAPTER XL11L 

There was not much European society at Erzeroum. It was 
made up of the English, French, and Russian consuls and their 
families; no other European, so far as 1 could learn, being in the 
town. The Russian official was an energetic man. A short time pre- 
vious he had discovered that some Circassians had the intention to 
leave the Caucasus, and enter Turkey. He had telegraphed the news 
in cipher to the Russian authorities. Troops had beeirsent to the 
Circassian villages. The inhabitants had been caught in the act of 
packing up their goods and chattels. Very strong measures had 
been taken. It was not likely that any similar attempt would be 
made by the inhabitants. There were now hardly any of them left. 

An empty house is better than a bad tenant ; this seems to be the 
policy of the Tzar's generals in the Caucasus. It is undoubtedly 
cheaper to hang a prisoner than to imprison him. The Russian offi- 
cers have great ideas of economy in this respect. The Russian 
consuls at Erzeroum had been engaged for some time past in intrigu- 
ing with the Armenians. Many Christians belonging to the higher, 
moneyed classes were in favor of Russian rule— almost all of them 
being supplied with Russian passports. The traffic in such docu- 

* See Appendix IV. 

+ See routes which cross the Euphrates and Tigris, Appendix XIV. 

4 See Importance of Syria from a Military Point of View, Appendix XV. 



174 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



ments carried on in the Erzeroum district was very great. No large 
town in Armenia is free from pseudo-Russians. Consul Taylor, 
writing from Erzeroum to the Earl of Clarendon on March the 19th'.. 
1869, remarks about the Russian consul, who was then in that city.l 
as follows: " The exaggerated pretensions, overbearing conduct, and 
ostentatious display of the Russian consul in his relations with the 
local authorities in which it is needless to say other consuls do not 
indulge, coupled with the unaccountable servility of the Turkish 
officials here in their intercourse with him, tend among an ignorant 
people to give a false value to his particular importance, or, rather, 
to that of the country he serves — which is still further strengthening 
their belief (alluding to Armenians) that no other power than Russia 
' is so able or willing to help them — makes them eager to apply to 
him in their differences, and to acquire DOCUMENTS that to them 
appear claims to the interference of a foreign power in their behalf. 
That the INTRIGUING, meddling conduct of the RUSSIAN CON- 
SUL is approved, I may state that although in disfavor with the Em- 
bassy at Constantinople, he is SUPPORTED by the AUTHORI- 
TIES in the CAUCASUS, to whose diplomatic Chancery, at Tiflis,. 
he is directly subordinate. It is the PuLlCT of the RUSSIAN 
GOVERNMENT, and therefore of its AGENTS, to encourage such 
ideas — as also to exaggerate real, existing evils, or trump up imagin - 
ary complaints, in order to keep up that CHRONIC DISAFFEC- 
TION so suitable to the line of conduct it has always pursued in the 
limits of Eastern countries." 

I now learned that a very large sum of money had been nominally 
spent in thro wing up some earthworks round Erzeroum. They were 
said to have cost a million of liras, nobody seemed to know how the 
money had been spent, 1 had not as yet visited the fortifica- 
tions. From what I could gather, the defenses were in a very bad 
state. It was stated that they would be utterly untenable in the- 
event of an attack. 

One thing seemed to be the unanimous opinion of all clashes in 
Erzeroum — with the exception possibly of the Russian Consul whose 
acquaintance I did no£ have the pleasure of making; this was, that 
should the Armenians ever get the upper hand in Anatolia, their 
government would be much more corrupt than the actual adminis- 
tration. It was corroborated by the Armenians themselves; the 
stories which they told me of several of the wealthier and more in- 
fluential of their fellow-countrymen thoroughly bore out the idea.* 

The soldiers in Erzeroum were very discontented about the way in 
which they had received their pay, or, rather, I should say, some of 
their back pay, as the amount owing to them was now more than 
twelve months in arrear. Where formerly they used to be paid in 
metaUique — a debased coinage of silver mixed with copper, but 
which always keeps its value of about one hundred and forty pias- 
tres to the lira — they were now being paid in caime or bank-notes. 
Caime had depreciated enormously, a lira being w^orth at Constanti- 
nople two hundred piastres. The Governor of Erzeroum had issued 
an order that a paper piastre was to be considered as equal to a 

* See Mr. Taylor's Report to the British Government on this matter. Appen- 
dix XXII, 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR, 



175 



Metallic piastre. This did not prevent things from rising in value. 
"I he soldiers were not able to buy half so much with their caime as 
formerly with their metcdUque. They had petitioned the governor 
on this subject and were in hopes that he would let them be paid 
after the Constantinople rate of exchange. 

The following day 1 went to the Military Hospital, a large build- 
ing in the middle of the town. Many of the patients were suffering 
from typhoid fever, and others from frost-bite. The men who had 
marched from the southern provinces of the empire had felt the ex- 
treme cold in Erzeroum. Their clothes, well adapted for the climate 
of Bagdad, were no protection against the low temperature on the 
mountains. There were also several cases of ophthalmia and pneu- 
monia. 

The head surgeon in the hospital was a Greek and one of his as- 
sistants a Hungarian. They both appeared to be intelligent men, and 
bewailed the lack of resources for the hospital. 

" We have -enough at present," said the Hungarian; "but it is 
the time of peace. When the war breaks out we shall require medi- 
cines and instruments; how the government will be able to pay for 
them 1 do not know. Every para* will be required for the soldiers 
in the field. Notwithstanding the best intentions on the part of the 
authorities, the wounded will many of them be left to rot." 

The wards were well ventilated. But owing to the dearth of ac« 
•commodation, patients laid up with typhus were lying next to men 
suffering from ophthalmia. It was impossible to separate the differ- 
ent classes. The doors, too, did not fit. On opening one of them, 
a current of cold air cut through the room, and attacked those pa- 
tients who were suffering from inflammation of the lungs. Hollow 
•coughs could be heard from all sides of the apartment. 

The name of every inmate, and the nature of the case, was writ- 
ten in French over his pallet, and the sufferers seemed to be much 
attached to their attendants. 

*' One of the most valuable medicines in this hospital," remarked 
the Greek, as I finished my inspection, is wine. The Turks who 
come from the south suffer from poorness of blood. They have 
never drunk wine before, their law prevents them ; when they re- 
ceive alcohol as a medicine the effect is marvelous." 

1 now walked to one of the barracks, to see the cavalry regiment 
which had left Sivas while 1 was in that town. It had just arrived 
in Erzeroum. An officer accompanied me through the stables. They 
were large and lofty. The saddles, arms, and accouterments were 
clean and bright, and the men appeared very particular about these 
matters; the colonel telling me, with a certain amount of pride, that, 
notwithstanding the long march from Sivas, he had no cases of sore 
backs among the horses in his regiment. 

Unfortunately there was only one other cavalry regiment in that 
part of Anatolia. The Turks in the event of war, would have to 
depend upon their Circassian irregulars for outpost duty. Now if 
there is one branch of warfare, which requires study more than 
another it is outpost duty. The safety of an army depends upon this 
l)emg well done. Intelligent cavalry officers are the eyes and ears of 

* A small coin, but often used as a general term to express money. 



176 . 01ST HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



the commander of an expedition. A general who is not supplied: 
with a numerous and efficient cavalry is like a deaf and blind man;; 
he knows nothing of Vvhat is going on around him.* My compan- 
ion was well aware of this. He regretted that there were not more 
cavalry regiments on the frontier. 

" We shall do our best," he said, " but there are only 400 troop- 
ers; when we are killed theie will be no one to replace us." 

He was not so saDguine about the result of the war as many of 
the officers with whom I had conversed. 

"1 fought against the Russians in the Crimea," was his remark 
in this subject. " They have very little money," he continued; 
*' however, we have less. We shall have to buy arms from abroad. 
So long as we have gold, your manufacturers will supply us; when 
we have no liras left, there will be no more rifles and cartridges. 
We have plenty of men. We can recruit from the Mussulmans 
throughout Asia. We can put into the field quite as many troops as- 
the Russians. The latter are not to be despised as soldiers; they wili 
die in their places. Our men will do the same. It will be a ques- 
tion of money and the longest purse will win." 

From the cavalry barracks 1 proceeded to a large khan, originally 
constructed for travelers but now given over to the troops. Here & 
battalion of redifs (reserves) was quartered. They had just received 
their uniforms— a blue tunic and trousers, very much like the dress 
worn by the red French infantry, and were armed with Martini-Pea- 
body rifles — a quantity of these firearms having been recently pur- 
chased from an American firm. 

The rooms in which the troops were lodged had nothing to recom- 
mend them; they were dirty and low, besides being overcrowded. 
The officers' rooms adjoined the men's dormitories, and were equally 
filthy. tyv zU:dwot&6 f \'&$$ 

A captain was drilling his company in one of the passages, and 
was making the soldiers go through the motions as if they were vol- 
ley-firing. The moment the men had their rifles to the shoulder he 
gave the word " fire;" there was no time allowed for taking aim. 

The same fault 1 subsequently observed in a battalion which was 
ordered to form a square to resist cavalry. The band was placed in 
the middle of the square, the men, so soon as the music struck up, f 
commenced firing independently— the object of each soldier being to 
discharge his rifle as rapidly as possible, the officers encouraging 
them in this bad habit, f If the same system is to be carried on in a 
war with Russia, tlie Sultan's army in Anatolia will soon be with- 
out ammunition. 



CHAPTER XL1V. 
Erzeboum was certainly the land of rumors, or, to use a slang* 
expression, " shaves." Shortly after returning to my quarters, the 
Pasha called and said that he had received a telegram to the effect 

* Fortunately for the Turks in the present war, the Russian cavalry has so 
far proved itself very inefficient. 

t This actually happened in the first engagements in the neighborhood of 
3Deli Baba. 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 177 

that England, Germany, and Turkey were to be allies in the coming: 
struggle. 

" Do you believe it?" 1 inquired. 

" Weil," replied the pasha, " the Germans, it is said, do not like- 
the Russians, and Russia is believed to be an ally of France." 

"If Germany does not fight France soon," observed another 
Turk, *■ France will be too strong for Germany." 

"That is what 1 think," said the Pasha; "Germany sees the 
nation that she has beaten making every effort to become strong, so 
as to revenge herself for her defeat. Bismarck will not be likely to 
await that event." 

A Turkish engineer officer now entered the room. He informed 
us that a telegram had arrived to say that the English Parliament 
had been opened. 

" What will they say about Turkey?" continued the officer. 

" Probably some more about the Bulgarian atrocities," I replied; 
" but 1 really do not know." 

" You English people," observed the engineer, " think that you 
know a great deal about what is passing in foreign countries. You 
know nothing at all about Turkey. Can the people at your embassy 
speak Turkish?" 

" One can." 

"All our officials in England can speak English," said the en- 
gineer. " Our newspapeis say that you receive your information 
- from people who are sent to travel for different English journals, 
and that hardly any of these men can speak Turkish : is that the 
case?" he continued: 

" Our newspapers, as a rule, are very well informed." 
" They wrote a great many falsehoods about Us in Bulgaria," said 
the officer; " our journals say that the writers were bribed by Rus- 
sia." 

" Englishmen do not sell their pens," 1 observed; " this is a habit 
* which is more likely to exist in your country than in my own." 

" If England, Austria, and ourselves fight Russia," said the Pasha, 
" we shall annihilate Russia. Do you think France will be against 
us?" 

" Probably not." 

" I should be sorry if France were our foe," said the Pasha; " the 
French are brave soldiers, and were our friends in tne Crimea." 

" Allah only knows what will happen," said another of the com- 
pany; " we are in His hands!" 

1 now mentioned to the Pasha that Mohammed had come with me 
as a servant from Tokat, and inquired if 1 might keep him during 
my stay in Asia Minor? 

" Is he a soldiei ?" said the Pasha. 

"Yes." 

" Well, there will be no righting at present; he can remain with 
you till you reach Batouni; a battalion from Tokat is in that town; 
he can join there." 

Later in the day, 1 rode round the fortifications, accompanied by 
a Turkish officer. There were nineteeu small forts— those on ihe 
Kars side being on an average 8,000 yards from the town, but those 
in the direction of Ardahan only 1,000. 



178 0^ HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



On the south a mountain descends to within a very short distance 
of Erzerourn. There is a direct road from Van to Moush, and from 
that town to the mountain which commands the city. 1 learned 
that no preparations had been made to defend this height, but, In- 
shallah, so soon as the winter was over, a redoubt will be thrown up 
in that direction. 

Two water-channels lead from this mountain into Erzerourn; if 
an enemy once had possession of the eminence, he would be able to 
turn them off from the town. There are a few 7 wells in the city. 
The water supply is insufficient for the requirements of the popula- 
tion. 

Erzerourn is entered by three posterns, known by the name of the 
Stamboul, Ardahan, and Ears gates. The roads from them lead to 
Ardahan, Kars, Yan, Erzingan and Trebizond. On the Van road, 
and about five miles from Erzerourn, there is a position known aa 
the Palandukain defile; here it had been proposed to build a fort— 
that is, so soon as the weather became a little warmer. It was also 
the intention to construct another at Gereguzek, eighteen miles from 
Erzerourn, on the Ardahan road. 

The officer now remarked that the Deve Boinou Bogaz, five miles 
from Erzerourn, and on the Kars road, would be a good place for a 
fort, whilst redoubts, in his opinion, ought to be thrown up at 
Kupri-Kui— a place nine hours from Erzerourn, and where there is 
xi branch road to Bayazid. He added that some more defenses 
should be made at the Soghana defile, which is twenty-four hours 
from Erzerourn. If this were done, it would be very difficult for 
the Russians to advance by that rout e. 

The important positions on the Bayazid road are at Deli Baba— a 
narrow gorge through high mountains, aud which pass, the Turk 
-declared, was impregnable— at the Taher Gedi, a five hours' march 
from Deli Baba, and at Kara Kilissa; after which the road is level 
to Bayazid. 

The forts around Erzerourn were many of them armed with 
bronze cannon, which had been manufactured at Constantinople. 
The artillerymen had very little knowledge of these pieces. The 
officers in command of the different batteries were ignorant of the 
distances to the different points within range of their guns. 

A million of liras had been spent in the construction of the de- 
fenses of Erzerourn; after riding round them, it was difficult for me 
to imagine what had been done with the money.* As it is, this sum 
has been entirely wasted; Erzerourn, if assailed by a resolute foe, 
would not be able to offer any resistance — the easiest points of attack 
being by the Ardahan or the Yan road. 

Later in the day, 1 dined with our consul, Mr. Zohrab. There, 
was an Armenian present, the Pasha's interpreter, and also Mr. 
Zohrab's dragoman, a gentleman who 1 believe is of Arab parent- 
age. The conversation after dinner turned upon the Kurds; the 
consul, lighting his cigarette, remarked that there were several curi- 
ous anecdotes with reference to these wild mountaineers. 

On being pressed to relate one, Mr. Zohrab began: 

* Since my stay at Erzerourn, the defenses of that city have been strengths 
^ned. 



0£T HOESEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MINOR. 



179 



" ]Not long ago, unci in the neighborhood of Karpoot, a Kurdisli 
robber attacked a Turkish merchant. The robber was wounded. 
He fled from the scene of his crime, and took refuge in the house of 
a Kurd known as Miri Mehmed, a rich and powerful sheik, or 
chief. News of the outrage reached Erzeroum. The Pasha sent 
orders to the colonel of a regiment in the neighborhood of the sneik's 
encampment to arrest the robber. The chief soon heard of this. He 
was able to dispose of several thousand armed men. He was not at 
all inclined to submit. In the meantime the officer, who did not 
know how to arrest the Kurd, wrote to the sheik and invited him to 
dinner. 

" The colonel had lately taken to himself a young and beautiful 
bride," added the consul, by way of a parenthesis. " Most of the 
officers in his regiment were married men. The day fixed for the- 
dinner arrived. At the appointed hour the sheik rode down to the 
encampment. He was unaccompanied by any retainers; dismount- 
ing at the door of the colonel's tent, he passed the threshold. The 
officer received his guest very courteously, gave him a magnificent 
entertainment, and, after the dinner was over, asked him to give up- 
the Kurdish robber. To this, however, the Kurd would not agree.. 
\ He has eaten bread and salt in my house, ' was his reply. ' 1 shall 
not surrender him.' The officer exerted all his powers of persua- 
sion: finally, discovering that the Kurd was obdurate, he arose, and, 
taking a document from his pocket, showed him that his orders 
were to arrest the sheik himself sooner than that the robber should 
be allowed to escape. ' So you mean to arrest me?' said the Kurd. 
I You probably think that, because 1 am unattended, 1 have no one 
at my beck and call. Wait! If I -have not returned to my encamp- 
ment in three hours' time, my men will come here to look for me; 
and I tell you what will happen. I shall take the wife you love 
best, I will revenge myself by dishonoring her before your eyes. My 
men shall do the same to the wives of every officer in your regi- 
ment!' The colonel was dreadfully alarmed at this," continued the 
consul. " He knew that the sheik was quite capable of carrying his: 
threat into effect, he trembled at the vast superiority of numbers on 
the side of the Kurds. He went down upon his knees, and implorecl 
the chief for mercy. The other officers were equally alarmed. They 
entreated the Kurd to depart. The colonel, kneeling down on the 
ground, embraced the sheik's feet as a sign of humility and respect. 
The chief was inflexible," added the speaker. " He stood motion- 
less as a block of stone. He made no remark. At last the colonel,, 
goaded to a state of frenzy, sprung to his feet and cried out to the 
chieftain, ' You are worse than a Christian! you are not a Moham- 
medan! You have eaten bread and salt in my house, and yet you 
wish to do me this great wrong.' ' And what did you wish to do to 
me?' said the Kurd. * You thought that 1 was without my followers 
and unprotected. You wished to take me a prisoner to Egin : and then, 
what would have been my fate? Perhaps I should have been put in 
jail or hanged, as has been the lot of some of my tribe. But,' added 
the sheik, ' you have thrown in my teeth the remark that 1 am worse 
than a Christian ! 1 will show you if 1 am so. My followers will be 
here in a very short time. They shall not harm your women. To- 
morrow morning 1 will go with you to Karpoot; but only on one 



180 



02* HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



condition— that we ride there without any of our men. 1 will send 
for my wire whom 1 love, and you shall take your wife whom you 
love. They shall accompany us. We will go together to the 
governor of the town.' The next day they started," added Mr. 
Zohrab. " The governor was first of all fur treating the Kurd very 
severely; but when the news had been telegraphed to the authorities, 
and all the facts of the case were known, an order came to release 
the chief." 

" From whom did you learn this story?" I inquired. 

" From a Hungarian doctor who was attached to the battalion in 
question, and who was an eye-witness of the greater part of the 
scheme." 

" Some of these Kurds are very chivalrous fellows," remarked an 
Armenian. " However, they are great robbers, and a curse to the 
neighborhood. They often bribe the Pashas," he continued, " and 
when troops are sent to force the mountaineers to submit, the general 
in command, instead of surrounding the mountain, or blocking up 
all the passes, will purposely leave one or two denies open. The 
Kurds then escape, and the Pasha telegraphs back to Constantinople 
that, perfect order reigns throughout the district under his com- 
mand. " 

" What will the Kurds do in the event of a war with Russia?" X 
inquired. 

" They will go with the side which pays them the most money," 
was the reply. " They are many of them known to be in Russian 
pay, and presents are continually being sent by the authorities in the 
Caucasus to the chiefs in this part of Anatolia." 



CHAPTER XLV. 

It was bitterly cold at Erzeroum. The thermometer had fallen 
lielow zero. The half -clad recruits could be seen running up and 
down in front of their barracks, endeavoring to keep themselves 
warm. There were at that time about 12,000 troops in the town. 
The number was continually changing, every week fresh battalions 
of redifs arrived from the interior, and then the older soldiers were 
marched off in the direction of Bayazid, Kars, and Ardahan. 

Wood was dear in the market. The inhabitants had to trust to 
their tezek, the dried excrement of cows, bulls, and oxen. The 
town is in the form of a pentagon. Its appearance from afar off 
has been compared by a traveler to a ship of enormous size, raised 
by the waves and thrown into a neglected bay. The mainmast is 
an old tower, which stands out conspicuously amidst the mud-built 
houses. 

Formerly, there used to be a great trade between this town and 
Persia. All the caravans going from the latter country to Trebizond 
pass through Erzeroum, and halt a few days to dispose of some mer- 
chandise. Of late years, a great deal of the Persian trade has found 
its way via Khoi and Erivan to Tiflis. The caravans between Persia 
and Erzeroum are not so numerous as they were some-eighteen years 
ago. Two per cent, duty is charged upon all merchandise going 
irom Erzeroum to Persia, and eight per cent, upon imported goods. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 181 



.Any article manufactured in Erzeroum, and sent out of the town 
•without being marked with the government stamp, as a sign that it 
has paid the duty, is- liable to be confiscated. 

The following morning I was awoke by Ismail Pasha's head serv- 
ant. It was bitterly cold. He proceeded to make a little fire in the 
stove. From time to time he looked at me in an excited manner., 
then he would blow the fire. There was evidently something on his 
mind. 

" What is it?" 1 inquired. " Have the Russians arrived?" 
" No, Effendi, but the Pasha has hanged himself, that is all!" 
" Not Ismail Pasha?" I exclaimed, at once thinking of my hos- 
pitable old host. 

" No, Effendi, not Ismail, but a military Pasha — a young man, 
only forty. Woe is me! He has hanged himself; our Pasha has 
gone to his house with all the other Pashas. The body is quite 
cold; if the Effendi were to go there, perhaps he might bring it to 
life again." 

" 1 am not a Hakim," 1 said. 

" Yes, Effendi, you are. Mohammed has told me that you have 
some medicine." « 

" Nonsense. But what made the Pasha hang himself?" 

" Effendi, no one knows for certain. It may have been owing to 
his wives; some people say he has lost all his money by lending it to 
the Sultan. Allah only knows! 1 should say his wives had some- 
thing to do with it." 

" Why so?" 

" Because he was gay and handsome. His wives were jealous. 
They were always scolding him — that is, whenever he went to his 
harem. If he had not been a military Pasha, he might have aban- 
doned his seraglio, but he could not leave Erzeroum ; the wives knew 
it, they had him in their power. He was such a nice gentleman!" 

Later in the day 1 met the consul's dragoman. He was of opinion 
that the Pasha had not committed suicide, but that some one m his 
house had saved him the trouble. This was the impression of many 
people in the town. 

" Anyhow," continued my informant, "no one Will be the wiser. 
The poor fellow is in the ground; coroners' inquests, or any sort of 
judicial inquiry as to the causes of death, are unknown in this part 
•of the world." 

Radford was still looking ill. 1 wished to leave Erzeroum. It 
was necessary for me to make up my mind as to what was to be 
done with him. It is a six days' march from Erzeroum to Trebi- 
zond; once there he might have gone on board a vessel bound to 
Constantinople. But on my proposing this plan, the poor fellow so 
entreated to be allowed to continue his journey, that rather reluc- 
tantly 1 consented. 

When long, forced marches have to be made through deep snow, 
an invalid is a source of great inconvenience. In addition to this, 
1 was anything but well myself ; a sudden chill had left me with an 
attack of dysentery. The food supplied us by the Pasha at Erze- 
roum consisted of very rich dishes. It was not the best thing for 
the digestive organs. 

1 was eager to commence the journey to Van; however, if Doth 



182 0^ HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIEOB. 



man and master were to fall ill on the march, it would be next to 
impossible to reach that city. When 1 announced to Ismail Pasha 
my intention of starting for Van, be did his best to dissuade me from 
the undertaking. 

" It is a fourteen days' march," he observed. " You will be in a 
country infested by Kurds, many of whom are in Russia's pay,* 
The Russian consul in Erzeroum is aware that you are here; he also 
knows that this government looks upon you as an enemy— -this I 
have heard from the interpreter. Should the Kurds kill you, your 
countrymen would very likely throw the blame on us. Take my 
advice," said Ismail Pasha; " do not go to Van. There is nothing 
to be seen in that town. Go straight to Kars; you will then meet 
with no Kurds on the road." 

But 1 had made up my mind to see Van, and the more particularly 
because 1 had been informed by many of my Armenian acquaint- 
ances that the bazaar there had been recently set on fire by some 
Turkish troops, and that the Christians had been robbed of all their 
effects by the Mussulman soldiers. The bazaar was represented to 
me as having been of gigantic dimensions. The Armenian mer- 
chants in Van were said to have been reduced from a state of afflu- 
ence to one of abject poverty. 

I was anxious to ascertain for myself how far this story was true; 
and as it is perfectly impossible to trust to any evidence in the East, 
save to that of your own eyes, I had determined to visit the seat of 
conflagration. 

Another Pasha called upon me, Fezzee Pasha (General Kohlmann), 
the chief of the staff' in Erzeroum. He was a Hungarian gentleman,, 
and had formerly been engaged as one of the leaders in a revolution 
in his own country. At that time he had been ordered to blow up 
the bridge over the river at Buda-Pesth, but had not done so. 
Shortly afterward lie entered the army of the Sultan. He showed 
me one of Kiepert's maps of Asia Minor, dated 1806, but with 
numerous corrections, which had been made subsequently by 
European officers in the Turkish service. The Pasha had enlarged 
this map by photgraphy, he had then distributed fac-similes of it to 
the officers under his command. He was a fine-looking old man, 
nearer seventy than sixty, bul upright as a lad of sixteen, and with 
a pleasant, frank smile which did one's heart good to witness. 

The TurKs, as a rule, are not in the habit of smiling; indeed, Rad- 

* Major-General Mackintosh, writing in 1854 on the subject, remarks that " in 
their desire to win over the Kurds, the Russian authorities proceeded so far, 
that on the pretext that they were a migratory people, they claimed a right for 
them to cross the frontier for the purpose of grazing their cattle ; and that 
even in Turkey they should still he looked upon as Russian subjects, and have 
no imports to pay on that side." He continues, " I have no doubt it is the in- 
terest of Russia that the.Kurds should to a certain degree be weakened and 
scattered, though it has been her crafty policy, while urging or encouraging 
Turkey in this course (referring to attacks upon Kurds), to pretend to be their 
champion and friend. She has pursued a similar course among the Turco- 
mans to the eastward of the Caspian ; and when in a contiguous part of Asia I 
heard of dresses of honor having been given to the chiefs, at the same time 
that the Shah of Persia was encouraged to attack them from the south. The 
more these various tribes of barbarians weaken themselves by their inces- 
sant conflicts, the more they are paving the way for the dominion of such a 
power as Russia." 



025" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI3T0R. l83 



iorcl often used to expatiate on the extreme melancholy which pre- 
vailed throughout all the Mohammedan classes: his lavorite remark 
being " that they looked as if they had found a sixpence and lost a 
lialf -crown. " General Kohlmann 'was an exception to this rule. He 
had adopted the Mohammedan religion, but this had not taken away 
from him a sense of the ridiculous. 1 have seldom found myself 
in pleasanter company than that of the chief of the stall in Erzeioum. 
He had been in Kars during the last siege, and was personally ac- 
quainted with Sir Fenwick Williams, Colonel Teesdale, and several 
other Englishmen; besides having a great deal to say about the gal- 
lantry and skill which had been shown by the British officers during 
the investment of the fortress. 

" Shall you remain much longer in the Turkish army?" 1 inquired. 

" 1 am waiting here in hopes that there will be a wai with our 
^nenries the Russians,'' said the old general, '-'and if we can only 
beat them, shall then return to Constantinople, and take my pen- 
sion. ' ' 

In the Pasha's opinion. Erzeroum was very weak and could not 
stand a siege. He did not apprehend any clanger from an attack 
along the Tan road, as there is a very strong position near Meleskert, 
and one which the Russians would not be able to take without 
enormous loss. He did not believe that the Tzar's troops were so 
slrong* in the Caucasus as was generally supposed. If the general 
could have had his way, he would at once have commenced the war 
7>y an attack in that direction. 

Later in the day 1 heard from an Armenian that there were some 
curious caves in the neighborhood of Erzeroum, and which no one 
liad ever explored. They were said to extend for miles, and to pass 
under the different detached forts. My informant declared that a 
priest who had been in them for a short distance had said that they 
contained gigantic halls, and seemingly never-ending passages. 

1 now asked the Pasha if 1 might undertake the" exploration of 
the cavern. It would be interesting from a military point of view 
to know where the passage ended. Should there be a war, an at- 
tempt would be made by Russian agents to blow up the batteries 
with gunpowder. 

Ismail Pasha readily gave his consent, and at the same time ordered 
an officer of engineers to take some men with lanterns and piek-axes 
to aid me in the task. The English consul, Mr. Zohrab, and his 
two sons, expressed a wish to join the party. It was arranged that 
we should meet the following morning at the consulate, and go from 
there to the caves. 



CHAPTER XLTI. 
When 1 arrived at Mr. Zohrab's residence, I found thst gentle- 
man and his boys, two English- looking lads with ruddy cheeks, 
prepared for a journey to the center of the earth, if the subterranean 
passage would only lead us there; and riding by a Turkish cemetery, 
which is just on the outskirts of Erzeroum, we proceeded onward 

* Subsequent events have proved how right General Kohlmann was in his 
•opinion. 



184 



ON ■ HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



toward our destination— a hill a short distance from the walls of the 
city. 

A few melancholy-looking dogs were walking about the dead 
men's home. A grave-digger was busily engaged in making a hole 
in the frost-bound ground with a pick. Further on a small band of 
people, howling and making a great noise, showed that another fol- 
lower of Islam had just been committed to his last abode. Some of 
the monuments were surrounded by wooden railings. Others had 
the names of the departed written on them in Arabic characters. 
Every stone was upright, none of them being placed horizontally on 
the ground, as is the custom with the Christians in the East. 

Some soldiers were standing near a small aperture in a neighbor- 
ing hill. One of them advanced as we rode up the slope, and said 
a few words to the officer. 

""We have arrived," said the latter, and, dismounting, we fol- 
lowed his example. 

The hole was not a large one. To enter the cave it was necessary 
for each man to lie flat on the ground, and gradually squeeze his 
body through the aperture. The first to attempt the passage was a 
thin Turk; he looked as if he had never been properly fed, and was- 
as emaciated in appearance as some of the dogs about the cemetery. 
Holding a candle in one hand and a box of matches in the other, he 
disappeared head-foremost down the cavity. 1 prepared to follow, 
not without some misgivings, as 1 was not at all sure whether there- 
was room tor me to pass. 

V You will stick!" said the consul. And I did stick. 

However, by the aid of a friendly shove from those behind, and a 
hand from the little Turk in front, 1 succeeded in entering the 
cavern. The others in turn followed. The passage became higher; 
we could walk upright. There were still no signs of any barrier; all 
of a sudden we arrived at a branch tunnel. Leaving some soldiers 
to explore this passage, we continued onward, and presently came 
to a small cavern to the left of our path, the latter being now blocked 
up by some loose stones. 

The soldiers began clearing away the debris. The rest of the party 
sat down in the cave and began to discuss the grotto. The officer 
was of opinion that it had been made several hundred years ago, as 
a refuge for the women and children of Erzeroum, in the event of 
that city being attacked by an enemy. 

" Erzeroum is supposed to have been the site of the Garden of 
Eden. Perhaps this is the spot to which the serpent retired after 
the fall," remarked another of the explorers. 

The officer shook his head; he did not believe in serpents. He 
stuck to his original idea. 

The soldiers by this time had succeeded in clearing away the 
debris. An aperture was exposed to view. It was about the same 
width as the one through which we had previously passed, and, on 
reaching the opposite sfde, several tunnels were found, branching in 
different directions. 

Taking a ball of string, we attached it to a stone by the entrance. 
Gradually unwinding the cord, we advanced along one of the pas- 
sages — now crawling flat on our stomachs, and then stumbling over 
heaps of rubbish — the consul, who was rather blown by his exeitions ; . 



ON HOKSEBACK THKOUGH ASIA MIKOE. 185 



remaining in the first room, and solacing himself during our absence 
with a cigarette. 

Presently a candle went out. AVe had to send for another. Two 
or three small caverns were now passed. Finally we arrived at the 
hare rock. There was no exit. We had explored the caves on one 
side. 

Retracing our steps, we tried the other tunnels, but, aftei a very 
short time, found that they too ended in the bare rock. There was 
nothing more to be done, and, returning to the open air, I soon after- 
ward leached my quarters. My iaith in Armenian stories was still 
more shaken by the events of the morning. 1 had been told that 1 
should see gigantic caverns; they had turned out to be small places, 
most of them not more than twelve feet square. 

The officer who had accompanied me was intelligent for a Turk, 
but he could not understand our getting up so early and riding 
through a deep snow, merely to explore an old cave. Curiosity 
-about antiquities does not enter into a 1 urk's composition. He lives 
for the present. What has happened is finished and done with. 

That evening 1 dined with a general of engineers. Some officers 
on his staff and Fezzee Pasha were amongst the guests. After dinner 
the son of my host, a child of ten years of age, came into the room, 
accompanied by an attendant. The boy was dressed in a cadet's 
uniform, and had a very pleasant cast of countenance. 

" He is a pretty boy," 1 remarked to his father. 

" Mashallah !" interrupted the old Hungarian. '* Say Mashallah, " 
lie added, " or else the father will be afraid of the evil eye! You 
have no idea how superstitious the Turks $re," continued the 
speaker, in French; "it you had not said Mashallah, and subse- 
quently anything had happened to the child, they would then have 
declared that it was owing to you." 

The engineer-general was much surprised to learn that almost 
every Englishman could read and write, and would not believe me 
till the Hungarian had corroborated my statement. 

" It is wonderful!" exclaimed our host. " Only think! A whole 
nation of Hodjas schoolmasters ! No wonder that the English people 
are so clever. It would never do for us Turks," he added. 
Why not?" 

" Because it would make our poor people dissatisfied to find that 
they knew as much as their masters, but were only receiving a serv- 
ant's wages. Does it not make your lower orders dissatisfied?" he 
inquired. 

" No, because their masters know something beyond reading and 
writing." 

*' You English are a marvelous nation," said the Pasha; " but, 1 
should not be surprised if one day you had a revolution. Why, 
some of our Pashas cannot write, and yet they get on very well. All 
your laborers being able to read and write— this is a miracle." 

1 said farewll to my host, and to our hospitable consul, who had 
done his best to dissuade me from the journey. The following 
morning we started for Van. 

It was a windy day. The postman, who was cairyiug the Van 
letter-bag, did not much fancy the march. 



186 OK HORSEBACK THEOUGH ASIA MIXOE. 



41 It will be all right for a tew hours," he remarked; " but if it 
like this to-mcrrow7 we shall not be able to pass the niountaius. " 

1 now learned that, owing to the wind and snow, the track was* 
sometimes blocked for days together, the path too was slippeiy, and 
there were precipices on either side. 

Presently we met a caravan of camels from Persia— the huge 
beasts were covered with icicles, owing to the extreme cold. The 
men who accompanied the caravan were clad in sheepskins, and 
wore high black hats. The track was very narrow, not being more 
than twelve inches broad; on either side of it there were rive feet of 
snow. The camels had to make way for the postman, who preceded 
us. With a crack from his whip he sent the foremost of them off 
the track, and breast-deep in the drift. The other camels, more than 
a hundred in number, followed in their leader's wake. There was 
one mule left in the path; on approaching, we found that he bore- 
two ladies. They were the wives of the Persian merchant, and were 
seated in large baskets — a pannier being slung on either side of the 
animals. 

The postman proved to be more chivalrous than I expected. Spur- 
ring his horse, he made his animal leave the track. Man and steed 
were half buried in the snow. We followed him. The mule was 
now able to pass with the ladies, who seemed much alarmed lest 
their quadrupeds should stumble. The women appeared to be very 
uncomfortable in their conveyance. One of them was much heavier 
than the other, the Persian had balanced her weight by putting a 
huge stone in the pannier containing his thinner wife. Some parts- 
of the road along which I hey had come led by the side of a precipice. 
It must have been very disagreeable for the ladies to have sat still in 
their baskets, and have looked down the abyss, with nothing save 
the sure-footedness of their animal to insure them against eternity. 

This caravan had come from Khoi and Bayazid — the owner re- 
ported that the roads were in a dreadful state. He had been twenty 
days performing the journey. We halted that evening at arx 
Armenian village called Herteff, containing about ninety houses, 
and a short distance from Kupri Kui. 1 was not sorry to reach a 
resting-place. My illness had weakened me. 1 had discovered this 
when we were obliged to wade on foot through the snow, and was 
now as great a cripple as Radford had been when on the road to 
Erzeroum. 

The owner of the house where we stopped was not a cleanly object. 
His domicile was as ditty as his person. His wife and children were 
manufacturing some tezek for fuel in one of the two rooms the house 
contained; this room was aiven over for the use of my party and 
myself. It was bitterly cold outside. To keep the habitation toler- 
ably warm, the owner" had blocked up a hole in the roof, used as- 
ventilator, chimney, and window. The smell of the tezek, and the 
ammonia arising from the horses and cattle, was excessively disagree- 
able. There was no other accommodation to be obtained. 
Mohammed presently informed me that two merchants had been 
waiting three days in the village. They wished to go to Van, and 
had made several attempts to cross the mountain, but in vain, 

The wife of the Armenian host, and her children, were not at all 
coy about showing their faces— at least so much of them as the dirt. 



Otf HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI3STOR. 187 

<did not hide from our view. They squatted round my English 
•servant, who was making tea, and watched his proceedings with 
great interest. Now the woman, sticking her filthy fingers into the 
basin, took out a lump ot sugar; then, putting it in turn into each 
of her children's mouths, she had a suck herself. ' ' Give it me !" sud- 
denly exclaimed her husband. The lady did not show any signs of 
readiness to surrender the prize. The man sprung to his feet; 
thrusting a finger and thumb into the mouth of his helpmate, at the 
same time clasping her tightly round the throat with the other hand, 
so as to avoid being bitten, he extracted the delicacy. Holding the 
sweet morsel high in the air, he displayed the treasure to the assem- 
bled guests; then, greatly to the woman's indignation, he placed it 
witnin his own jaws. 

CHAPTEK XLVli: 
In the next room, which was only separated from us by a railing 
about three feet high, there were buff aloes, cows, calves, and pigeons, 
beside the relatives of the Armenian, the postman and a Kurd. The 
latter individual had a wonderful turban in the shape of a bonnet 
on his head. It was made of blue satin, and adorned with gold 
thread. He was evidently very proud of this attire, and told the 
Armenian that he had purchased it at Erzeroum, and that, when he 
had finished wearing the turban, he should give it to his favorite 
wife. 

Presently an Armenian woman brought in a wooden tray, on 
which were several of the cakes which are used as biead by the in- 
habitants, and some oily soup. 

The Kurd, postman and Armenians, squatting round the dishes, 
devoured the contents with rapidity. 

Mohammed was lying in a corner of my room ; from time to time 
a, groan escaped his lips. 1 discovered that he was suffering from 
rheumatism. Radford had put a mustard plaster on him by way of 
alleviating the pain. Mohammed had been told that he was to keep 
It on all night. The mustard was rapidly creating a blister. 
Atech— fire!" said the Turk, pointing to his back. 

" les," said Radford. " Hottish— 1 should say it was. It will 
be better presently." 

"Turkish is very like English, sir," observed my man to me. 
*' You see that he says it is ' hottish.' " 

*' Nonsense!" 1 replied. " He says ' atech— lire.' " 

*' ' Atech,' or - hottish,' it don't make much difference, sir; the 
plaster is raising a beautiful blister. 1 should not be surprised if 
Mohammed left off complaining about his baches and pains after 
this. 1 don't think as how any other Turks will ask me to doctor 
them again!" 

Radford was wrong. The sound of Mohammed's groans attracted 
the Kurd's attention : accompanied by the Armenian, he came to the 
side of the sufferer. They minutely Inspected the plaster. 

"If is a wonder," said the Kurd. "The plaster is cold, but 
Mohammed says he is on fire! "Where has the Frank put the flames? 
I should like a plaster too." Turning to Radford, he held out his 
'iiand for one. 



188 CW HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI1TOR. 



"Plasters are for sick people, not for men in a good state of 
health," I observed. 

" But 1 am not welJ," said the Kurd. 
" What is the matter with you?" 

" I have a pain here," taking off his slipper, he showed the re- 
mains of an old frost bite. " The cold did this," he added, " the 
fire there," pointing to the wet paper, " will put it right again." 

1 had considerable difficulty in explaining to the man that the 
plaster in question would be a useless remedy. 

The following morning the wind blew harder than before. The 
mountain which barred our progress was entirely hid from view in 
what seemed to be a whirlwind of snowy particles. The cold, too, 
was intense. The thermometer was still seveial degrees below zero. 

"It is no good starting," said the postman, coming to me; " tc- 
day the Sun does not shower its rays upon our destiny. Fortune is 
against us. We must wait here till the wind goes down." 

The two merchants had made another attempt to ascend the 
mountain a little before daybreak. They had found it impossible 
to cross the passes. The track was hid from their view by the 
snow. They were half blinded by the flakes which the wind car- 
ried with it in its course. 

There was nothing to be done but to wait patiently. In conver- 
sation with a Turkish lieutenant 1 discovered that it would be pos- 
sible to reach Bayazid and from Bayazid there was a road to Yan. 
It would be a much longer route than the one which led direct from 
Erzeroum to Van. 

The officer interrupted me in my reflections, and proposed that 
we should go to Bayazid. 

" W T ho knows," he continued, " how long we may have to wait 
here? The mountain is sometimes impassable for two or three 
weeks at a time; and, besides this, the smell in this room is enough 
to poison any one. These Christians do stink," he added, pointing 
to my Armenian host and hostess, who, begrimed with dirt, were- 
squatting in a corner — the woman engaged in making some cake 
with flour and water, and the man in looking for what it is not 
necessary to mention amidst his clothes. 

The Russian moujik is not a sweet animal; a Souakim Arab, with 
hair piled up two feet above his head, and covered with liquid fat, 
is an equally unpleasant companion; but either of these gentlemen 
would have smelled like Rowland's Macassar oil in comparison 
with my Armenian host, who. apparently, had no ideas beyond that 
of manufacturing fuel from cow's dung. His conversation was- 
entirely engrossed with this subject. It was also an important topic 
with the rest of his family, who were all longing for the frost to go, 
so as to commence making the article in question on a large scale. 

Wood is very dear in these parts. The inhabitants would die if 
they had not a supply of fuel. It is not surprising that they take a 
considerable interest in their tezek. But to hear this subject dis- 
cussed from morning to night, and in a room with an atmosphere 
like a sewer— besides being ill at the time— was a little annoying to 
my senses. 1 made up my mind that, if the weather did not im- 
prove in the course of the next twenty- four hours, 1 would continue 
my journey toward Bayazid. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



189 



The lieutenant would accompany me in that direction. He was a 
very cheery little fellow, and not at all disposed to hide his own. 
lights beneath a bushel. He had been a lieutenant about six years, 
and took an oppoitunity to mention to me this fact. He knew that 
1 had stayed with Ismail Pasha in Erzeroum, and was in hopes that 
1 would write to the governor, and casually mention his, the lieu- 
tenant's, name as a gallant and exceedingly efficient officer. 

There was no improvement in the weather. The following morn- 
ing I left Herteff for Bayazid— the postman remaining behind with 
the letters. 

We crossed the Praxes on the ice. The river was said to be, only 
two feet deep. Kupri Kui was about one mile from our track. 
Here there is a bridge over the stream, which is about thirty yards 
wide, besides being "deep. Our track was firm and level. There 
were no mountains to cross. Every now and then we passed by 
villages; they all contained soldiers, and, so far as 1 could learn, 
there were about 8,000 troops echeloned between Erzeroum and 
Bayazid. 

After a seven hours' march we halted at Yusueri, an Armenian 
village. From here it was a three houis' ride to Deli Baba, a cele- 
brated gorge or mountain pass, and the most important place, from 
a military point of view, on the road to the Russian frontier. 

The women in the house where 1 was lodged were busily engaged 
in making some earthenware jars. Taking some clay irom the soil, 
they knead it for several hours with their fingers, and then form it 
into the shape they require. In every house there is a hole left in 
the floor, which is used as an oven. The women place the jars in 
this receptacle, and filling the space between them with tezek, set 
fire to it. They afterward color the pottery by some process of 
which 1 am ignorant. The result is an extremely well made and 
serviceable article, in which they keep their corn, flour, and house- 
hold goods. 

Now we came to the famous pass of Deli Baba. It is about a 
quarter of a mile long. High and precipitous rocks are on either 
hand, and the gorge is not more than forty yards wide at the exil 
from the defile toward Bayazid. It is a spot where a thousand reso- 
lute men, well supplied with ammunition, might keep at defiance a 
force of a hundred times their number. However, in spite of the 
extreme importance of the position, nothing had been done to 
strengthen any part of it. 

" We are going to throw up earthworks, and place some batteries 
here when the winter is over," was the reply of the 1 ieutenant, when 
1 interrogated him on this subject. 

' ' When the winter is over. " " Not to-day, to-morrow ;" this is the 
stereotyped answer which a Turk has always at the tip of his tongue. 
Until the Sultan's subects can shake off the apathy which prevails 
throughout the empire, it will be difficult for them to hold their 
own, against other nations. . 

CHAPTER XLVIIL. 
Oun track led over some low hills. The ground was covered with, 
deep snow. We had to dismount, and struggle as best we could 



190 (XST HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIJsOR. 



through the treacherous soil. The sun shone bright above our 
heads; the reflection from the white surface at our feet was blinding 
rn the extreme. "VVe staggered about, and followed in each other's 
tiack, like a number of drunken men, and after eight hours' inces- 
sant toil reached Daha, a Khurdish village. 

We were here informed (hat the road to Bayazid had been blocked 
for eight days; and that Ihe village was full of caravans which had 
made daily attempts to force a passage forward. All the inhabitants 
were going to turn out at daybreak on the following day. They in- 
tended, if possible, to clear a track from Daha to the next village. 

The daughter of my host took a great deal of interest in her 
iathec's guests. She was a tall, fine-looking girl, with a high cone- 
chaped head-dress of black silk. A quantity of gold spangles were 
fastened to this covering. A red jacket and loose white" trousers 
enveloped hei limbs and body, her feet were thrust in some white 
slippers. If only she had been properly washed, she would have 
been a veiy attractive-looking young lady. But soap and water 
were evidently strangers to the Kurd's dwelling, if I might judge by 
the surprise the girl evinced when Kadford coinrnencedVashing his 
pans after he had cooked my dinner. 

" Sd you wash flip dishes and pans in your country?" she re- 
marked. 'I, ''■tp'^^k 

" Yes." 

" But it gives a great deal of trouble," observed the girl; " and it 
does not make the dinner taste any better." 

The voice of her father on the outside of the dwelling made the 
young lady aw&re that she world probably receive a scolding it she 
was found talking to a European. Sticking her ringers into a tin 
box, and seizing a handf ul of biscuits, she ran into the stable. 

" She is very dirty," observed Mohammed, who had overheard 
the conversation; " but, for all that, if she were well washed, she 
would fetch a good price as a wife for some Bey in Constantinople. 
It is a pit3 r that you are not a follower of Islarn/Effendi," continued 
my servant; " she is tall, she would make a good wife for you." 

I now learned that certain Turkish merchants were in the habit 
of visiting the Kurd district in the summer months. If they meet 
with a pretty girl they buy her from her parents, and then, 'taking 
the young lady to Constantinople, make her go through a course of 
Turkish baths, and teed her well. Under this regime the girl's 
complexion improves. She will command a considerable price as 
an addition to the seraglio of some magnate or other. If she suc- 
ceeds in gaining the ravor of her lord, she does not forget the rel- 
atives at home, but sends them money and presents, besides inter- 
esting herself for the advancement of her brothers and other rela- 
■ tions. The result of this is, that a Kurd has no objection to part with 
his pretty daughter. If she is well sold at Constantinople this is 
looked upon by the young lady's family as rather a feather in their 
cap than otherwise. ' - _ ' ? ' a ^jSJSI|^^^B 

,! Eich men generally get pretty wives," said Mohammed, as he 
concluded, giving me this informatimn. "Is it the sa^ne in your 
'Country, Effendi?" 

" Occasionally," 1 replied, " but not always. The 'girls are some- 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 191 



times allowed to choose for themselves. There are instances when 
they prefer a poor man to a rich one." 

"What do their fathers say to this?" said Mohammed. "Do 
they not beat their daughters if they do not like the rich man?" 

"I cannot understand that," said Mohammed. "If 1 had a 
daughter, and she might marry a rich man, but she preferred a 
poor man, I should whip the girl till she altered her mind!" 

The owner of the house enteied the room. He was accompanied 
by three of his sons, all fine-looking lads. They were dressed in 
green serge, and in a costume which somewhat resembled that 
worn by the foresters in the opera of " Freischutz." Several dag- 
gers and pistols were stuck in their sashes, enormous orange-colored 
turbans adorned their heads. They squatted down beside the 
Imaum of the village— a thin man dressed in a white sheet. 

The father rose from the divan and standing before me, pointed 
to his tooth. 

" "What is the matter with it?" 1 inquired in Turkish — a language 
which is generally understood by every Kurd, though few of them 
speak it well. 

" It aches; I have heard, Effentii, of your great skull as a hakim 
(doctor)," continued the man. " Mohammed has told me how you 
set his shoulder on fire with a piece of wet paper. This is very 
wonderful, perhaps you couid cure my tooth." 

Now it is one thing to be able to prescribe a mustard plaster, it is 
another to be called upon to act as a dentist. However, the Kurd's 
children were all expectant. They evidently believed that it 1 put a 
mustard plaster on their parent's tooth that this would relieve him 
immediately. 

Mohammed was also of this opinion. He went through a sort of 
pantomimic performance in the corner of the room, suggestive of 
the sufferings which he had undergone, and of the subsequent benefit, 
which he had received. 

A thought occurred to me. 1 remembered that three years before 
my servant Radford had extracted the tooth of a maid servant in a 
country house in Norfolk. Why should he not extract the. Kurd's 
tooth? And if he were able to do so, would not my reputation as a 
hakim be higher than ever amid the inhabitants of Kurdistan? 

" 1 am not a hakim for teeth," 1 remarked to the patient. " 1 am 
a hakim for the stomach, which is the nobler and more important 
portion of a man's body. " 

The Imaum and the Kurd's children made a sign of assent to 
this; the Kurd himself did not seem to see it. 

"You are in my house," he said. "You have accepted my hos- 
pitality—cure my tooth!" 

" Well," 1 continued, " 1 have a servant with me; he is a hakim 
for teeth. If you like he shall look in your mouth." 
■ " By all means!" said the Kurd. 

In a few minutes a servant, of my host arrived, leading Radford; 
by the sleeve of his coat. 

" Do you want me, sir?" inquired Radford, touching his cap. 
" This dirty chap," pointing to the man who had brought him to 



192 



Otf HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



the room, " came into the place where 1. was cooking, laid hold of 
me with his dirty fingers, and without saying a wordled me here!" 

" Yes," 1 said; "this gentleman," pointing to the old Kurd, 
*- has something the matter with one of his teeth. Look at it." 

My servant, without moving a muscle of his countenance, seized 
"the patient by the nose with the fingers of one hand ; then, thrusting a 
finger of the other into the sufferer's mouth, looked well down the 
gaping orifice. 

" It had better come out; but it is very tight in his 'ead," re- 
marked my man. " It I only had a pair of champagne nippers, 1 
would have it out in a trice." 

" .Could not you pull it out with a piece of string?" 

'* No, sir; could not get a purchase on it;" and with that remark 
my servant released the Kurd's head. 

'* "What doeshesay?" said the sufferer, rather alarmed at our con- 
versation in a language unknown to him, and the moie particularly 
at the grave demeanor of my servant. 

" He says that the tooth had better be extracted." 

" Will it hurt much?" inquired the Kurd, excitedly, 

'* Yes, a good deal." 

This observation of mine appeared to afford great satisfaction to 
the Imaum and the Kurd's children. 
41 Have it out!" they all cried. 

^ But their parent did not see the matter from his sons' point of 
view. He remarked in an indignant tone of voice: 
" Silence!" 

Then, turning to me, he inquired it 1 could not give him some 
medicine for his stomach. 

" But your tooth hurts you, not your stomach," 1 observed. 

"Yes," replied the man, "but for all that, I should like some 
medicine." 

Taking some pills from my medicine-chest, 1 gave them to him. 
The old man, putting three pills in his mouth, commenced chewing 
them with great gusto. 

" My tooth is better already," he remarked, and in a few minutes 
prepared to leave the room, accompanied by his sons and the 
Imaum. The latter was very much disappointed that my host's 
tooth had not been operated upon. 

" It it had been nay looth, 1 should have had it out," he observed 
to me sotto voce ; " but he is afraid." 

The Kurd overheard the remark. 

" You would have done nothing of the kind," he replied. " You 
would have swallowed the medicine like me!"— and a whelping cry 
irom a dog outside the door announced to us that the old gentleman 
liad vented his bile on the ribs of the animal in question. 

CHAPTER XL1X. 
On the morrow we were up before daybreak, and not only our- 
selves, but almost all the male inhabitants of the village. They had 
turned out, some on horseback and others with spades and shovels, 
4o try and force a passage through the snow. In addition to these 
men there were two caravans, comprising between them over 200 



ON HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOE. 



camels, and accompanied by fifty Persians. It was very cold. The 
lieutenant was doubtful whether we should succeed in clearing a 
way before us. According to the Kurd, there were still six feet of 
snow in many places along the track. 

Just as we were leaving Daha, the eldest son of my host ap- 
proached and apologized for the absence of his father. There was 
evidently something on the lad's mind; he hesitated as he said 
"Good-by." 

" Is there anything 1 can do for you?" 1 observed, 

" Yes, Effendi, there is," said the boy, delighted at the ice being 
thus broken for him. " But 1 am afraid to ask for it." 

1 now began to be a little alarmed, thinking that possibly the lad 
had set his heart on possessing my little express rifle or revolver, both 
of which he had much admired bn the previous evening. 

" What is it?" 

"Effendi," replied the boy, "1 know that it is contrary to our 
idea of hospitality for a host to ask for a present from a guest; but 
in this case my father—" 

" What does he want?" I remarked a little hastily, as it was any- 
thing but agreeable sitting still in the cold. 

" He was so well cleaned last evening," continued the lad; " he 
lias never been so well cleaned before! "fie would like you to give 
Mm some more of that wonderful medicine." 

All the luggage was on the pack-horses. But the boy so entreated 
me to comply with his request tnat I could not refuse. Unpacking 
my bag, I gave him a box of pills. The lad's face became radiant 
with delight. Taking off the lid, he took out a couple and ate them 
on the spot. Then, touching his head with my hand, he hurried off 
in another direction. 

" He is a rogue," said Mohammed, chuckling. "He does not 
want the medicine for his father. It is for himself, iie wants to 
set up as a hakim in the village. When once it is known that you 
have given him some medicine, be will be a person of great impor- 
tance m the neighborhood." 

Presently we came to a place where the camels, which were in the 
van of our party, had come to a halt. One of the animals had al- 
most disappeared in a snow-drift, nothing save his long neck could 
be seen. The men coaxed and whipped their unruly beasts, all was 
to no purpose, they would not move a step. 

1 thought that we should have to dig out the road with shovels. 
However, the Kurd who directed the operations did not resort to 
ihis measure. Ordering one of the Persians to make his camels retire 
about 200 yards, the Kurd called twenty of the best mounted of the 
villagers to his eide, then striking his horse and shouting wildly, he 
galloped along the track and charged Ihe drift. In a second or two 
nothing could be seer! but the head of the rider, his steed was en- 
tirely hidden from our view. After a few struggles the man backed 
the animal out of the snow, having made a hole in it some twenty 
feet long by four wide. The nexriiorseman rode at the place, like 
his leader. Each Kurd followed in succession. They finally forced 
-a passage. 

It was a wild sight to witness— these Kurds in their quaint head- 
dresses, and on strong, fine-looking steeds of Turcoman breed, many 

7 



194 OK HOESEBAGK THROUGH ASIA 3IIKOE. 



of them quite sixteen hands high, charging the snow-drifts, yelling: 
and invoking Allah — the Persians, phlegmatic and still, seemingly 
not eating a straw about the matter— the lieutenant encouraging the- 
Kurds by cries and gesticulations, but having too great a regard for 
his own safety to gallop at the ridges — and the leading horseman 
now far in front, his horse apparently swimming through the snow 
as he slowly burst the barrier. 

It was hard work even following in the steps of the Kurds. If 
a horse or camel deviated a hair's breadth from the line marked out, 
he would be often buried in a drift, and a long time be wasted in 
extricating him. 

The track led over a succession of rising ground until we reached 
Zedhane, an Armenian village with, about thirty houses. 

We were close to the village of Holla Suleiman, and weie not far 
from Toprak Kale— a town in which a sanguinary drama had been 
enacted but a very few months previous. 1 will relate the story as 
it has been told me by an eye-witness or part of the scene. 

Four years ago a Kurd was Caimacan at Toprak Kale. His 
grandfather had been a sort of king at Bayazid; the family being 
well off and having relatives married to some magnates m Stam- 
boul, had considerable influence in the district. However, manjr 
complaints had been made about the conduct of this Caimacan. He 
was removed from his post. It was given to a Circassian. This gave 
rise to a feud between the ex and the new governors — the Kurd 
often vowing vengeance against his newly-appointed successor. 
Shortly before my informant's visit to Toprak Kale, the Kurd's fa- 
ther had died. His family was in mourning. 

An Armenian peasant, who resided in Toprak Kale, was about to 
be married. It is the custom amongst the Christians in this part of 
Asia Minor, when the wedding ceremony is concluded, to beat 
drums, hire a band of what they call musicians, and fire guns in 
the air, as a sign of general rejoicing. 

The peasant, knowing that the Kurd's father, had recently died* 
went to the ex-Caimacan, and asked his permission for the wedding 
to take place, as it would be impossible to have it without the music, 
gun-firing, etc. 

The Kurd consented, provided that he received a present, this the 
Armenian gladly promised to give. The marriage ceremony began, 
but when the Armenians in Toprak Kale commenced beating drums, 
etc., the noise reached the Kurd's ear. She hastened 10 her son^ 
asked him how he could allow people to insult his father's memory,, 
and insisted that he should instantly put a stop to the proceedings. 

The son allowed himself to be persuaded, and sent some servants, 
who broke in the heads of the drums. The peasant was very indig- 
nant. He at once proceeded to the Circassian, the actual Caimacan, 
and related everything that had happened! 

"Did the Kurd accept a present from you?" inquired the gov- 
ernor. 

" Yes." 

" Very well," continued the Caimacan, " go back to your house. 
My servants shall accompany you. Make more noise than before. 
Get more drums; beat them harder than ever, and do not spare your- 



OH HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHTOR. 



195 



powder. I will show the people in Toprak Kale who is Caimacan 
>-the Kurd or myself." 

This was done. When it came to the ears of the Kurd's mother, 
.she toid him that he must be revenged on the foe, or his father's 
bones would not be able to rest in peace in the tomb. The Kurd 
consented. That evening he went to the Caimacan's house, accom- 
panied by two of his brothers, and inquired of a servant where his 
master was. 

" In the harem," replied the atiendant, much surprised at so late 
a visit on the part of the ex-Caimacan. 

" Go and tell him l am here," said the Kurd, then, without waiting 
for- an answer, he pushed aside the man, and tried to force a way 
into the apartment reserved for the Circassian's wives. The govern- 
or was in bed at the time. Be heard the noise: snatching his sword 
from the sheath, he rushed to the entrance. The Kurd fired at him 
with a pistol, the ball going through the Circassian's shoulder; but 
the latter was able to cut down his foe. The Kurd's relatives now 
rushed upon the governor. He called loudly foi assistance; his 
brother, who slept in another room, hurried to the rescue, the result 
of the encounter, being that three of the opponents were killed, 
whilst the Circassian governor was left desperately wounded on the 
field of battle. 

In the meantime, hundreds of Kurds, who had heard of the dis- 
turbance, came down from the adjacent mountain. They vowed that 
they would kill every Circassian in the neighborhood, The Circas- 
sians trooped into Toprak Kale, and swore that they would exter- 
minate the Kurds. 

Fortunately, the gentleman who related this story to me was able 
to dispatch a mounted Armenian to the governor at Bayazid, asking 
him to send some Iroops to the scene of the disturbance. The soldiers 
arrived in time to prevent a battle royal between the two factions. 
This probably would have ended in the annihilation of every Kurd 
and Circassian in the district, neither side being inclined to grant 
any quarter to its foe. 

We rode through Moila Suleiman. All the houses in this vil- 
lage were filled with soldiery. On emerging into the open country, 
I found that the path in front of us was blocked by a caravan com- 
ing from Persia. A pond was on the right-hand side of the path. 
The leading camel-driver led his animals along the frozen water, so 
as to avoid a collision with our party. He miscalculated the Ihick- 
ness of the ice; a loud splash made us aware that it had given way 
beneath the camels. Five of the huge beasts were sprawling in tfte 
water, here about five feet deep; their packs, containing timbaki, 
Persian tobacco, became dripping wet. The animals, frightened at 
the breaking of the ice, lay down on all foms. They refused to get 
up, in spite of the cries and the whips of their drivers. 



CHAPTER L. 

We met with some Armenian lads riding calves, and driving 
others before them, the driven animals carrying pack-saddles, w 7 hieh 
were laden with sacks of corn. The Christians in this district make 
use of their cattle as beasts of burden. It is not at all an uncommon 



196 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MlffOB. 



sight to see Armenians, man and wife, riding to market on cows 
and oxen. Buffaloes are much in request with the inhabitants, on 
account of the great strength of these animals. Some of the richer 
Christians possess from twenty to thirty buffaloes, two of which are 
considered a fair price for a girl— it. being the custom of the poorer 
Armenians in certain districts, to receive money from their sons-in- 
law, and seldom, it ever, give any dowry to their daughters. On 
my remarking this one day, when in conversation with a Christian, 
the latter replied : 

" Our daughters are our maid-servants, when they marry we lose 
their services. It is quite right, that the husband should compensate- 
us for our loss. Europeans educate their girls very well, but the 
latter are utterly useless as cooks or sweepers. When they marry, 
the fathers lose nothing, but, on the contrary, gain, as they have no 
longer to pay for their daughters' maintenance or clothes. It is 
quite proper that you should give a husoand something when he 
saddles himself with a useless incumbrance; and you have no right 
to find fault with us for our system." 

Presently we met a dervish; his long black hair was streaming' 
below his waist; he brandished, a knotted stick. The fellow looked 
very hard at us, as if he were of the opinion that we ought to leave 
the track, and let our horses sink into the snow-drift so as to enable 
him -to pass. The lieutenant did not see it in this light. This 
officer was a little man, but he had a tremendous voice, which 
sounded as if it came from the very bottom of his stomach. He 
roared at the dervish; the latter, who was greatly alarmed, sprung 
on one side into the snow. Nothing but his head and face were vis- 
ible—his dark eyes glared fiercely at the giaours as we rode past. 

Kara Kilissa came in sight. It is a large village; every house was 
crammed with soldiers. It was impossible to obtain any accommo- 
dation. We rode on toward Kaize Kuy, another Armenian hamlet. 
The track descended for a few yards, and then ascended precipitous- 
ly. I thought that we were in a gully. However, tne Zaptieh and 
his horse floundering in some water made me aware that we were 
crossing a frozen stream, and that the ice had given way. it was 
very cold; the man was wet from head to foot; in a minute or two 
he looked like one gigantic icicle. Pushing on as rapidly as possi- 
ble, we reached our quarters for the night. 

The streams which traverse the tracks in many parts of Anatolia 
are a source of constant annoyance to travelers during the winter. 
The water becomes frozen; snow falls; it covers the glassy surface, 
and in time fills the space between the banks. There is nothing to 
warn the waylarer that he is leaving the track, till he suddenly finds 
himself upon the ice; a horseman is fortunate if it is strong enough 
to bear him. 

Now we satv some Persian women sitting cross-legged on their 
horses like the men. Some of these ladies were mothers. They car- 
ried their children siting in handkerchiefs round their necks. In a 
short time 1 came to their village, one amongst several others, which 
are scattered about in this part of Turkey. The houses were clean 
inside, and, in this respect, a great improvement upon those inhab- 
ited by the Kurds. The floors were covered with very thick rugs 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA 3IISTOR. 



197 



made by the wives of the proprietors. I was informed that the peo- 
ple in the district send their manufactures to Erzeroum. 

The inhabitants formerly lived in the neighborhood of Erivan. 
"When the Russians invaded Persia, conquered the Shah, and an- 
nexed a part of Persian soil, many of the vanquished determined 
not to remain under the Muscovite yoke. Leaving their houses, they 
crossed the frontier and settled in Turkey. The Sultan gave them 
land. They expressed themselves as being much happier, under 
their present rulers, than their relatives who are Russian subjects. 
The latter would be delighted to pass the border-line and join their 
countrymen in Anatolia; this the Muscovite authorities do not allow. 
" Once a Russian, always- a Russian," is the answer given to the 
Persians on this question. 

Our track led us along the right bank of the Murad, here about 
seventy yards wide. We came to a bridge which spans the river — 
the road on the opposite side leading in the direction of Van. We 
did not cross the structure. 

Soon Diyadin was reached. Here there were two squadrons of 
cavalry, besides infantry. The commandant, in spite of the rumors 
of peace whicii had been telegraphed from Constantinople, was daily 
expecting an outbreak of hostilities. The Russians, according to 
him, had concentrated a large force of Cossacks in the neighborhood 
of Erivan. It was believed that the war would commence by an 
attack upon Bayazid. 

"We rode for an hour over a low mountain ridge, and then entered 
a vast plain girt round by sloping heights. On our right front lay 
Persia. On my bridle hand 1 could see the territory of the Tzar. 
The mighty Ararat is in front of us, and stretches upward into the 
realms of space, its lofty crest hidden in some vaporous clouds. 

It was extremely cold. A bright sun poured its rays down upon 
our heads. The golden orb gave out no warmth, but it half blinded 
us with this splerjdor. 

The people in this district suffer very much from opthalmia: a 
traveler rarely finds himself in a house where one of the inmates is 
not laboring under this complaint. 

The plain narrows. A broad lake of water is on our left. To our 
right front and amidst the rocks lies the little town of Bayazid. The 
ruins of an old castle are in the fields below. Tbe track begins to 
ascend. It wiuds higher and higher amidst the crags. A few 
houses are passed, and the barracks which contain two battalions of 
infantry. We come to the Pasha's residence. Dismounting, 1 pro- 
ceeded to pay that official a visit. 

He had been for some time in Egypt, and spoke Arabic very fair- 
ly, having great pleasure in showing oft his proficiency in this lan- 
guage to the officers of his household. 

I learned that six weeks previous to my arrival, the Russian au- 
thorities in Daghestan had ordered a levy of troops to be made amidst 
the inhabitants. The latter declared that they were Mohammedans, 
and said they did not wish to fight against their Lord, the Comman- 
der of the Faithful. They added that the Tzar formerly had prom- 
ised that those men who wished might leave Russia with tbeir wives 
and children, and settle on Turkish soil; they asked for this permis- 
sion for themselves. 



198 



02* HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" However," continued the Pasha, " the Russian authorities would 
not al]ow them to leave the country. Cossacks were sent to the dis- 
trict in question, and 400 people— amongst them women and chil- 
dren — were shot down and beaten to death!" 

Bayazid is only a twelve hours' march from Erivan, the frontier 
town of Russia. There is a level road between these two stations. 
The Russians had a large artillery force in Erivan, and there were 
only two mountain guns in Bayazid. The Turkish officers were 
convinced that if an attack were made upon Bayazid, they would 
be unable to offer any effectual opposition. In their opinion it would 
be better for them to retire upon Kara Kilissa and Deli Baba, and 
make a stand at these points. 

Major-General Mackintosh, when writing about Kurdistan during 
the time of the Crimean War, remarks that he does not think there 
js a place of greater importance than Bayazid, in a military point of 
view, in the whole of Western Asia. There is a continuous descent 
along the banks of the Euphrates to the Persian Gulf; but as this 
great valley conducts through the range of Mount Tauras into Syria, 
its value to Russia, on this account alone, must be obvious. It is 
much nearer to her present frontier, and much more accessible than 
Erzeroum, which lies on the western branch of the Euphrates; and 
should the contingencies of the present war render it possible for 
Russia to push on a force into the northern part of Syria, the good 
will of the Kurds* at the moment of undert aking such an operation, 
would afford her an immense advantage. There is another exceed- 
ingly strong pass at Bayazid, on the Persian side, where a very small 
regular force might completely seal the entrance into Persia, from 
the side of Erzeroum, except through the roads of Central Kurdis- 
tan. It may also be looked upon as a key to Kurdistan, and to Di- 
arbekir, Mosul, and the whole course of the Tigris as far as Bagdad. 
I have no hesitation in saying, that Russia, with the assistance of 
the Kurdish tribes, could speedily establish a route, and march an 
army down this valley into Syria, f The distance from Erivan to 
Aleppo is not above 500 miles, if so much, and the route by Aleppo, 
Diarbekir, and Van, to Aderbzou, from the Mediterranean, is quite 
practicable for an army. 

I rode to see the barracks. Eighty years ago they formed part of 
a palace belonging to a Kurdish chieftain, a certain Mahmoud 
Pasha. He had expressed a wish to have the most beautiful resi- 
dence in the world and after conversing with numerous architects 
upon this subject, had accepted the service of an Armenian. The 
latter had designed a very handsome building, with large glass win- 
dows, and everything that could be desired in the way of comfort. 
The Pasha was satisfied with the palace, but not with the idea that 
the Armenian architect might possibly construct a similar building 
tor some other kindred chieftain. To prevent this, Mahmoud 
ordered his executioner to cut off the Armenian's hands. This was 
done. The poor victim shortly afterward died a beggar. In the 
meantime the Pasha was gathered to his fathers, leaving one son. 

* Fortunately during the present war the Kurds have remained true to the 
Sultan, or Major-General Mackintosh's predictions might have been realized, 
t For importance of Syria from a Military Point of View, see Appendix XV. 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 199 



This man, after committing all sorts of excesses, was bitten by a 
snake, and died at Alexandretta. His child was brought up at Bay- 
azid, and afterward became Caimacan at Toprak Kal£ He had lost 
his life in the affray with the Circassians, which has already been, 
mentioned in this work. 

On entering the barracks, sometimes called the citadel, the irony 
of fate was clearly shown. The large window-frames which had 
been brought to Bayazid for Mahmoud eighty years ago, and at an 
immense expense, had all disappeared; their places were filled up 
with sheets of Turkish newspapers. The marble pillars and carving 
in alabaster over the portico were chipped and hacked about, the 
harem of the former owner was a dormitory for the troops. Four 
hundred soldiers slept in the rooms allotted by Mahmoud to his 
seraglio. 

A Hungarian doctor in the Turkish service accompanied me over 
the building. Descending a flight of steps, he led the way to a large 
vault. Here lay the bodies of Alahmoua and of his favorite wife, 
in two tombs of the purest marble. 

" He was a great rogue when he lived," said a Turkish officer: 
who had joined our party, pointing to an inscription which merely 
said, "Mahmoud Pasha, son of Issek Pasha, lies here;" " but he 
is still now, andean do no one any harm. Peace be with his bones I" 



CHAPTER LI. 

We leave the barracks. A beautiful view extends before us. We 
look down upon the red, green, and white plateau which divides us 
from the Tzar's dominions. In some places the sun has slightly 
melted the snow, the sand is exposed to view ; in others, and nearer 
the lake which lies m the midst of the plateau, patches of vegetation, 
can be seen. 1 be clouds which overhang Ararat have been dispelled 
by the sun; the huge mountain, enveloped in its white pall, stands 
out in bold relief. 

1 now called upon the Pasha. While 1 was conversing with him, 
a servant entered and whispered something in his ear. 

" Let the fellow come in," he observed; then, turning to me, he 
remarked that a Turk had just arrived from the Russian frontier, 
and brought the latest news' of the military preparations in Erivan. 

For some time past the Russians had prohibited any inhabitant of 
Turkey from crossing the border-line. It was difficult to obtain any 
authentic information as to the quantity of troops the Tzar's gen- 
erals had massed in the neighborhood. The new arrival succeeded 
in passing the boundary-line by saying to the Russian officers that 
he had been forcibly enlisted as a soldier, and was a deserter from 
his regiment. He had obtained permission to return to Turkey by 
declaring that he wished to bring his wife — who lived in a village 
near Bayazid— to Erivan; the Russian general had ordered him to 
* obtain as much information as he could about the strength and dis- 
. position of the Turkish forces. He was a thick-set, sturdy-looking 
little fellow, with a bull neck and keen gray eyes; his attire consist- 
ing of a blue turban, a yellow shirt, and a pair of crimson trousers. 
According to him, the Mollahs were preaching a war of extermina- 



200 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



tion against the Russians in Persia. However, the natives of that 
country were very lukewarm in their friendship to the lurks. It 
was not impossible that they would join Russia, or at all events al- 
low the Tzar's troops to march through their territory in the event 
of an offensive movement against Van, 

The Pasha took up a Turkish newspaper which he had just re- 
ceived from Constantinople. 

" Listen!" he said. " The man who writes for this paper knows 
. what he is about." 

The article was to the effect that Russia wished to drive the Turks 
out of Europe because they tvere Mohammedans, and because in Eu- 
' ropean Turkey the Christians were in the majority. " Very good," 
said the writer, " let us' abandon Europe, but in Asia the Christians 
are in the minority. According to the same reasoning, the Russians 
and English ought to leave all their Asiatic possessions, and give 
them up to the original proprietors of the soil. Our Sultan has no 
objection to let every Christian in his dominions leave Turkey and 
go to Russia; but the Tzar, on the contrary, he will not let the Mo- 
hammedans in his empire cross the frontier; if they try to do so, he 
sends his soldiers; they cut the throats of our co-religionists. A 
conference composed for the most part of Christians, has been held 
at Constantinople to inquire into the way the Sultan treats his Chris- 
tian subjects. Why should not a conference be assembled at St. 
Petersburg, composed for the most part of Mohammedans, to in- 
quire into the way the Tartars, Turkomans and other inhabitants 
of Central Asia are treated by the Tzar?" 

" Y eSj " said the Pasha, as he finished reading to me these ex- 
tracts. " The European powers dislike Russia, and although I hey 
hate her, and know that she is the origin of all our difficulties they 
are too timid to allow the fact. What a mockery it must have seemed 
to the representatives of England, France and Germany to find 
themselves sitting in judgment upon Turkey, and General lgnatieff, 
instead of being equally on his trial, seated at their side, and a judge 
instead of a prisoner. Does it not make you smile to think of ft?" 
added the Pasha; how the general most have laughed in his 
sleeve. ' ' 

Another officer entered the room. He had been educated in the 
military school at Corstantinople. From frequent intercourse with 
Europeans, mostly Frenchmen, he had begun to look down upon 
the religious observances of his countrymen. 

It was about the hour for the evening prayer. The Pasha, Cada, 
and several other Turks commenced performing their devotions, 
regardless of the presence of a stranger. The new arrival, the Hun- 
garian doctor, and myself, remained seated, the former remarking 
that it was very hard work praying, at the same time glancing rather t 
contemptuously at his superior officers. 

<4 Did you not pray when you were at Constantinople?" I in- 
quired. 

"Effendi, 1 did everything d la Frangd (in European fashion). , 
Europeans, from what 1 could learn, do not pray much." 

"ISotpray!" I observed: " what do you mean?" 

"N<>, Effendi; the men, 1 have been told, go to the churches to 
look at the women; the women, some to pray, but others to look at 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



201 



the men and show off their fine clothes the one to the other. Is not 
thai the case in your country?" he added. 

" No. Of course there are exceptions; .but the English people as 
a rule are religiously inclined." 

'• Effendi," continued the officer, " 1 have often heard Frenchmen 
say that a Christian ought to be a poor man— that is, if he carried 
out the doctrines of his Prophet. But my friends used to laugh and 
declare that their bishops and priests were rich men, and that some 
of the Protestant Mollahs were so wealthy that they could afford to 
keep carriages, eat mutton every day, and have servants to wait 
-" upon them." 

"The fact of our bishops and priests eating mutton or keeping 
_ carriages does not make the Protestant religion the less true," 1 now 
observed. 

" 1 do not know that," replied the Tuik. " If. I were to be taught 
a religion by" a man who did not believe in it himself, or who did. 
not carry out its doctrines, 1 should think that 1 was wasting my 
" time." 

The rest at Bayazid had done all our party good. The horses, 
which were still very emaciated on account of the long and frequent 
marches, had picked up a little flesh. 1 determined to leave Baya- 

- zid and accompany a Turkish captain who was going through Per- 
sia to Van with dispatches for the governor of that town. The 
officer must have been sixty. He was quite gray; but he sat his 
horse like a centaur, and was more enthusiastic for the war than 

' any Turk with whom 1 had previously conversed. 
" "iou may get killed," 1 remarked. 

" Please G-od 1 shall not," was his reply; " others may die, and 
_ then there will be some promotion." 

CHAPTER £11. 
We turned our backs upon Mount Ararat, and, ascending a low 
range of hills covered with loose rocks and bowlders, arrived at a 

- "Yezeed (devil-worshippers) village. 

The houses were built in the sides of a hill. Cone-shaped huts 
made of tezek, and filled with that fuel, showed that the inhabit- 
* ants had no objection to heat in this world however hot they might 
expect to be in the next. 

An old man, considerably above the middle stature, approached 
our party. Addressing the Usebashe, he invited us to dismount. It 
was about luncheon-time. 1 determined to avail myself of the op- 
portunity afforded me to learn a little about the ways and habits of 
these strange people. 

"Here we are, sir, with the worshipers of Old Scratch!" ob- 
served Radford, as he was preparing the mid-day meal, which con- 
sisted of a freshly-killed hen, boiled with some rice. " Mohammed 
has just been telling me something about them. All that 1 know is 
that Old Nick has not much to complain of so far as his flock is 
concerned. They have been at our sugar already, and would have 
carried oft Mohammed's tobacco if he had not been on the look- 
out. 1 suppose they think it right to steal, so as to keep on good 
terms with their master." 



802 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR* 



"The Yezeed 's religion, if such it may be called, is based upon the 
following dogma: that there are two spirits— a spirit of good and a 
spirit of evil. ■ Allah, the spirit of good, can do no harm to any one, 
and he is a friend to the human race. The spirit of evil can do a 
great deal of harm, and he is the cause of all our woes. From this 
starting-point the Yezeeds have been brought to believe that it is a 
waste of time to worship the spirit of good, who will not hurt them, 
and that the proper course to pursue is to try and propitiate the spirit 
of evil, who can be very disagreeable if he chooses. To do so they 
never venture to make use of "the name of the devil, as this they be- 
lieve would be an act of disrespect to their infernal master. 

They are visited twice a year by different high priests, when cer- 
tain rites are performed. These rites are kept a great secret. The 
Turks who gave me some information about the Yezeeds were un- 
able to give me any details about the nature of the ceremonies. 1 
was informed that the 1'ezeeds are divided into two sects; that the 
one looks upon the devil as the Grand Vizier of Allah, and the other 
regards him as the private secretary of the good spirit. It was said 
that the two sects hated each other to such an extent that, if a man 
belonging to the one which looks upon the devil as- being the Grand 
Vizier of Allah were to enter a village belonging to members of tne 
rival faith, the new arrival would have a great chance of losing his 
life. 

* The Yezeeds' priests are many of them unmarried. However, 
should a priest or sheik arrive in a village, the first thing which is 
done by the inhabitants is to offer their wives and daughters for his 
inspection. The Sheik will select one. It will then be considered 
that he has conferred a very high honor on the young lady's i da- 
tives. Theie aie different laws as to the subsequent treatment of 
these women. In one of the sects they are not allowed to marry, but 
are set apart; and, in the case of a married woman, she is not per- 
mitted again to live with her husband. In the other sect they are 
permitted to marry, or if the lady has a spouse, she must return to 
him. It is then the duty of every Yezeed to make her rich presents, 
and the inhabitants of the village must maintain her husband and 
herself during the rest of their lives. Under these circumstances a 
woman who has been honored by the attentions of a priest is looked 
upon by a youthful Yezeed in much the same light as a rich heiress 
by many impecunious younger sons in a European ball-room; her 
hand is eagerly sought for in marriage. If she already possesses a 
husband, the latter considers himself as one of the most fortunate of 
men. The result of this is, that when a priest arrives in a village, 
great excitement arises amid the population— every man hoping that 
his wife or daughter will be honored by being selected. The ladies 
take immense interest in the proceeding. The visits of the reverend 
gentlemen are eagerly looked forward to by all classes of Yezeed 
society. 

This information was given me by some Turks with whom I had 
conversed during my journey. I now asked my host if these state- 
ments were true. He at once repudiated them, and declared that 
they were inventions of the followers of Islam. 

" Do you look upon the devil as the Grand Vizier of Allah?" I 
How inquired. 



OH" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



203 



If a bombshell had exploded in the room where I was sitting, there 
could not have been greater consternation than that which was 
evinced by the members of my host's family. Springing to their feet 
they fled from the building — an old woman very nearly upsetting 
Eadford's cooking-pot in her haste to escape into the open air. The 
captain looked at me, and then indulged in a sort of suppressed 
laugh. 

" What has frightened them?" 1 inquired. 

"Effendi," he replied, 44 ^ou mentioned the word 4 Shaitan ' 
(devil). It is very lucky for you," continued the old man, 44 that 
there are five of us, and we are all well armed; for, if not, the Ye- 
zeeds would have attacked our party for a certainty. Any disaster 
which may happen in this .village during the next twelve months 
will be put down to you. If a man's cow or camel dies, the fellow 
will say that it is all your fault; the sooner we continue our march 
the better. " 

It was getting late; the inhabitants had withdrawn to some dis- 
tance from their houses, they were gazing at our party with lower- 
ing brows. 1 would gladly have repaired the mischief that 1 had 
done; but an apology might have only made matters worse. I was 
the more sorry, as 1 had hoped to have the opportunity of question- 
ing the Yezeeds as to some of their customs. What I had heard about 
them from the Turks was so different to what is related of this 
singular people by Mr. Layard, in his admirable work, 44 Nmeveh, 
and its Remains," that 1 had become rather skeptical as to the 
veracity of. my informants. The old captain, however, consoled 
me by saying that, on my journey from Van to Kars, I should have 
to pass by many other Yezeed villages, and would there be able to 
pursue my inquiries upon this subject. 

Very shortly after leaving our halting-place, the guide stopped., 
and said something to the officer. 

44 What is he saying?" 1 inquired. 

44 The summit of this bill is the border-line," was the reply. 
In another minute we had entered the territory of the Shah. 

The track was good and firm; although there was plenty of snow 
on the hills, there was but little on the plain below. After a few 
hours' march, we halted for the night in a village called Kelise 
Kandy. 

The Usebashe was well known to the chief proprietor in the dis- 
trict, and, coming out to meet us, he invited our party to enter his 
house. 

Kelise Kandy is a large village, and much cleaner than any of 
those which 1 had seen on the Turkish side of the frontier. The 
houses were well built, and many of them whitewashed. Several 
haystacks were in a yard belonging to our host, hundreds of sheep 
and cattle stood in a large inclosure near his dwelling. 

The proprietor was dressed at first sight a little like a European, 
He had a black coat; a red sash was tied round his waist; a pair of 
white trousers covered his legs. But a very high, coue-shaped, 
astrakhan hat was on his head, and this article of attire, much re- 
sembling an extinguisher, did away with his otherwise slightly 
European appearance. 

A number of servants, all armed with daggers stuck in their waist* 



204 ON"- HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



belts, and with hats, if possible, still more like an extinguisher than 
that which their master wore, stood round the room. It was a good- 
sized apartment, thirty feet long by twenty broad. The floor was 
covered with a thick Persian carpet, of beautiful design, but not 
dear; indeed, 1 subsequently learned that it had only cost fifteen 
pounds of our money. 

Light was let into the room by some double windows— probably 
made in this fashion so as to keep out the cold. Our host, after 
motioning to me to squat down on one side of him, and to the Use- 
bashe to squat down on the other, produced a cigar-case, and oftered 
me a cigarette. 

He had been often in Erzeroum, and also in Eussia, where he had 
imbibed a taste for smoking tobacco in this form. His acquaint- 
ance with the Muscovites had not prepossessed him in their favor. 

" They want to conquer the Shah, "he presently remarked. " They 
will make use of us as a stepping-stone to Van and Bagdad; after 
which they will annex their catspaw. We ought to have another 
Nadir Shah," he continued. " If we had one, the Russians would 
not dare to laugh at us as they do." 

" 1 thought that there were very good relations between the Courts 
of Teheran and St. Petersburg, ' ' 1 now remarked. 

" The Shah is obliged to be on good terms with the Tzar," replied 
the Persian. " The Tzar is too strong for him." 

:> If there be a war between Russia and Turkey, which side will 
Persia take?" 

The proprietor shook his head. ^ 

" We ought to go with Islam," he remarked; " but, better still, 
remain neutral, 1 am told there are many Russian officers in 
Teheran. They are doing their best to influence the Shah in their 
master's favor. Nadir Shah once conquered you English in Hin- 
dostan," he added. 

" No, he conquered part of India before we went there. How- 
ever, now Hindostan belongs to us." 

" 1 thought he had," continued the man. " 1 was told so in Rus- 
sia; 1 was also informed that the Tzar of America had defeated you, 
and was an ally of the Emperor of Russia. Is that the case?" 

" There is no Tzar in America," 1 replied, " we have had no war 
with the United States for many years." 

" But you paid them a certain sum of money to prevent them go- 
ing to war with you?" observed my host; " and not only that, but 
you pay Shere Ali, of Afghanistan, a large sum every year with the 
same object. Will Shere Ali fight against Russia if there is a war 
between the Tzar and Turkey?" 

" I do not know." 

" Some Muscovites say that Shere Ali is on their side," remarked 
the Persian. " But he is a clever fellow, and is not likely to join 
the weakest party." 

CHAPTER LIU. 
Lateb in the day dinner was brought in — a chicken surrounded 
by a huge pile of rice. A Turk as rich as our Persian host would 
have provided his guest with fifteen or twenty courses, but the 



02s HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



205 



Persians aTe satisfied with one. 1 was not aware of the custom, and 
only tasted the chicken. Presently it was taken away: instead of a 
fresh dish making its appearance, some water was brought in, in an 
ewer, for us to wash our hands. 

"You Englishmen are very temperate," said the host, rising. 

1 did not" tell him what was passing through my mind, 1 was 
ravenously hungry, and would gladly have had that chicken brought 
back again ; but it was Freddy in the hands of the servants outside. 
The}" were devouring the contents. 

"You are a great hakim," now observed the proprietor. 

" Who told you that?" 1 remarked, surprised that the reputation 
acquired in the Kurd's house had thus preceded me. 

" Ihe Usebashe knows it. 3Iohammed, too, has told my servant. 
Piaise be to Allah who has sent you here!" 

" I am not a hakim!" 1 hastily replied. " 1 am an officer." 

" Do not say that," said the Persian, who spoke Turkish fluent- 
ly. " Do not deny the taients that Allah, lias given you. Your 
arrival has cast a gleam of sunshine on our threshold, and you will 
not go away without gladdening the hearts of my family." 

" What do you want me to do?" 1 inquired. 

" My wife is poorly: 1 ask you to cure her.''' 

" But really 1 know very little about medicine. 1 have only a 
few simple remedies with, me." 

'* Simple remedies indeed!" said the Persian. ■* A man who can 
set a person's shoulder on fire with a piece of wet paper!" 

" What is the matter with your wife?" 

"1 do not know, but you will tell me." 

" Well, 1 must see her," 1 replied. 

" Impossible!" said the Persian. " She is in the harem, lean 
not take yOu there!" 

" But how can 1 tell you what is the matter with, her if 1 do not - 
see her?" 

" Give me a piece of that wonderful wet paper: perhaps it will 
cure her." 

" Bffendi," said the Usebashe, turning to the Persian, " you can 
not tell a horse's age without looking into his mouth. The Frank 
can not tell your wife's ailments without looking at her tongue." 

A consultation took place "between my host and some other Per- 
sian visitors. It was at length, agreed that, as a hakim, 1 might be 
admitted into the harem. 

In the meantime, a servant brought in a samovar (tea-urn), which 
the proprietor had purchased at Erivan; and whilst the Usebashe 
and myself were drinking tea, with lemon-juice instead of cream — 
as is the custom in Persia, as well as in Russia— iny host left the 
room aud proceeded to the harem to announce to his wife that I 
would see her. 

Presently he returned, and, taking my hand, helped me to rise 
from the ground. Then, going first, he led the way across a yard, 
surrounded by a high wall and planted with fruit trees, to a detached 
building, which 1 had previously thought was a mosque. 

" This is the harem," said the proprietor. We entered an outer 
loom, he drew a thick curtaiu which hung against one of the walls. 
An opening now appeared : stooping low,""! entered the inner apart- 



206 



Ols HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIHOR. 



merit. It was furnished, or rather unfurnished, like the one set 
apart for the Usebashe and mj-self. A pan of live charcoal stood 
in one corner. In the othe^, reclining on a quantity of silk cushions, 
was the wife of my host. 

She was enveloped from head to foot in a sheet made of some 
gauze-like material. There were so many folds that it was impossi- 
ble to distinguish her features or even divine the contour of her 
form. Her feet, which were very small and stockingless, were ex- 
posed to view. She had taken them out ot two tiny white slippers 
which lay by the side of the charcoal pan, and was nervously tap- 
ping the ground with her heel. 

" She is alarmed," said my host. " Be not alarmed," he added, 
turning to his wife. It is " the hakim who has come to make you 
well." 

These remarks did not tranquilize the lady. Her heel tapped the 
ground more quickly than before, the whole of her body shook like 
an aspen-leal. 

" She has never seen any man save myself in the harem," said 
her husband; " and you — you area European." 
" What is the nature of her illness?" 
" She is in delicate state of health." 
" Can I look at her tongue?" 

There w r as a whispered conversation with the lady. By this time 
she was a little more calm. Removing the folds of her veil, she 
allowed the tip ot a very red little tongue to escape lrom her lips. 

" Well, what do you think of it?" said my host, who was taking: 
the greatest interest in these proceedings. 

" It is a nice tongue; but now I must see her eyes. 

" Why her eyes?" 

" Because she may have what is called jaundice; I must see if her 
eye is yellow." 

" "Perhaps she had better expose the whole face," said the Persian. 
"Perhaps she had," 1 remarked. 

And the poor little lady, wdiose nerves w T ere now less excited, slow- 
ly unwound the folds of muslin from around her head. She was 
certainly pretty, and had very regular features, w r hilst a pair of large 
black eyes, which looked through me as 1 gazed on them, were 
twinkling with an air of humor more than of fear. 

She understood Tuikish well, as she came from the border, and, 
looking at me, said something in a low voice. 

" She feels better already," said my host. "The sight of you 
has done her good; when you have given her some medicine, she 
will doubtless be quite well." 

" What is the matter with you?" 1 said, turning to the patient. 

She blushed. Her husband then remarked that she fancied strange 
dishes at her meals, and in fact was delicate. 

It gradually dawned upon me what the nature of her malady was, 
and the more particularly as I was informed by my host that they 
had been married but a few months. 

" I have no medicine for your complaint," 1 remarked. 

" No medicine!" said the Persian, indignantly. "Mohammed 
has shown me the bottles and the little boxes. Besides that, you 
have the wet paper." 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



207 



* f A mustard plaster would be useless." 

" But she must have something," said the husband. 

Now, my medicine-chest was ver3 r limited in its contents. It 
merely contained cholera medicine, pills, and a lew ounces of qui- 
nine, besides the prepared mustard plasters. 

A pill, in the lady's condition, would not have been safe; 1 could 
not have answered for the consequences. Cholera mixture might 
have been equally disastrous in its effects. Quinine, 1 thought, 
could not do any harm; it is exceedingly nasty, an infinitesimally 
small dose leaves a ver}^ disagreeable taste in the mouth. 

You shall have some medicine," 1 observed. " Please God, it 
will do you good." 

" lnshallah! Inshallah!" replied my host, devoutly; and accom- 
panying me to the room prepared for the IJsebashe and myself, I 
gave him three grains of c uinine to be taken in three doses, one 
grain in each dose. 

'** "Will it do her much good?" inquired the Persian. 

" That depends upon Allah," I remarked. 
Of course it does," said my host, and taking the medicine he 
returned to his seraglio. 

As he was leaving the house, 1 observed a great commotion amidst 
xuy host's servants. Mohammed was some time before he joined 
our party. 

" What was the matter?" I asked. 

" Effendi, they are sons of the devil, these Persians!" vociferated 
my man, indignantly. " 1 waited behind to give them my lord's 
baksheesh, but they were greedy creatures, and one — a strong man 
—snatched all the paras out of my hand, and thrust the money in 
his waistbelt. The others cursed and called him many dogs, but 
the fellow did not care. They then wanted me to give them more 
money; I had none to bestow/ They are like jackals, these Persians. 
They would cut a man's throat as soon as eat a pillaff!" 



CHAPTER LIV. 

"We rode along a flat country. A few hills could be seen on our 
"bridle-hand. The track was in capital order for the march. After 
•passing several small hamlets — amongst others, Arab Dize, Shadili, 
and Shalendili — we pulled up at a large village called Karenee. It 
was inhabited by Kurds, all of them being Persian subjects. Here 
there were 350 houses. Judging by the number of people who came 
to ask for medicine, so soon as 1 dismounted from my horse, the 
Whole population was*" unwell. It appeared that the Persian, in 
whose house 1 had stopped on the previous evening, had sent word 
to the chief proprietor in this Kurdish village, to say that a celebrated 
hakim was on his way. ls r o amount of expostulation saved us from 
the intrusion of the inhabitants. Every one wished me to look at 
his tongue, and to feel his pulse. Radford, who was in another 
loom, was interrupted in his cooking by a crowd of the humbler 
.Kurds, who believed that, when the master was so great a hakim, 
his servant must necessarily have some medical skill. 

Presently rhy servant entered. 



208 - OTZ HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI^OK. 



" What has happened?" 1 remarked. 

V 1 cannot get on with my cooking, sir," was the reply. " They 
will come and shove out their dirty tongues just over my cooking- 
pot. Some of the people who have got nasty diseases and sore legs 
insist upon showing them to me. Quite turns me hup, that it does. 
1 had two boxes ofhantibilious— 1 have given them all away. If I 
had only a pair of champagne nippers, sir, 1 svould draw the rascals' 
teeth, perhaps that ivould lake away their taste tor my doctoring. 
Do you think it would do any harnf if I were to bleed one or two ot 
them, sir?" 

" Could you stop the bleeding after the operation?" 1 inquired. 

" That, sir, is just what was passing in my mind. It 1 thought 
as how 1 could, I would have taken a little blood from each of them 
in turn. \ It would have cooled them down a little, and they would 
not have been so anxious for my company in future." 

On reaching a village about three hours' distance from our sleeping 
quarters, we heard that the short road over the mountains to Van 
was blocked by the snow, and that it would be absolutely necessary 
to go by Khoi, and by a circuitous route which I had hoped to avoid. 

1 did not believe the statement, and ordered the guide to taite the 
mountain track. The man reluctantly consented. Higher and 
higher we ascended the steep which divided us from the capital of 
Armenia. The snow at each moment became more deep. At last 
the guide halted and distinctly refused to advance. 

"I shall lose my life," he said. "You can do what you like 
with your own, but 1 have children for whom to provide." 

The Usebashe interfered. 

" The fellow is telling the truth about the road," he said. "1 
too, like yourself, thought that he was deceiving us. We had better 
go to Khoi." 

There was nothing to be done but turn round and continue toward 
that town. It was about fifty miles distant from us. We halted for 
the night at a Kurdish village called Melhamee. Here the inhabitants 
treated us very discourteously. If it had not been for the Usebashe, 
who reminded them of the laws of hospitality which are prescribed 
by their religion, 1 much doubt whether we should have obtained a. 
resting-place. They had learned that I was an Englishman, and 
were under the impression that they would be pleasing the Russians 
if they threw difficulties in our way. 

"We know who you are," said a Kurd, "and the people in 
Erivan know who you are too. The Russians are our friends," he 
continued. 

" Take care thai your friends do not eat you some day," said the 
Usebashe. 

" They will eat you first, and we shall help them," said the Kurd. 

This aroused the captain's indignation. I thought that there 
would have been a disturbance. But, after a little more verbal war- 
fare, the belligerents parted. 

"All the people in this village are in Russian pay," said the 
Usebashe, " and that is why they are so hostile to you as well as to 
ourselves. These men," he continued, " are foolish enough to be- 
lieve in the Russians, and think that because the Tzar's agents give 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR* 209 



them money and presents, this same sort of treatment will be con- 
tinued. Poor fools! they will rind their mistake some day." 

We rode by men driving before them oxen laded with wood for 
fuel. There were many villages on either side of the track. The 
Persian inhabitants, attired in loose blue garments, and with their 
beards dyed red, gazed curiously upon us as we passed. 

Some of the greater dandies amidst these gentlemen had their 
finger-nails also staiaed; and unless a man has his beard dyed a 
bright color, he has very little'chance of meeting with tbe appioval 
of the fair sex. A stout red-haired Welshman would have what is 
termed un grand sveces amidst the ladies in these regions. 

"These Persians are ridiculous creatures," said the Usebashe. 
" Only think of the men dyeing their beards red! One would have 
thought that black would have been a more appropriate color." 

" Some of our English women dye their hair a light color," 1 re- 
marked. 

•' With women 1 can understand it," said the Usebashe. " Every 
part of a woman is false, from her tongue to her smile: dyeing her 
hair red enables her to carry on the deception; but for men to dye 
their hair red— they might as well form part of a harem, at once! 
However, these Persians are a nation of women." 

And the Usebashe pointed contemptuously at a little knot of men 
who were seated outside a small dwelling, and watching eagerly for 
the moment when the sun would disappear behind the hills. 

1 have often wondered whether something connected with the old 
fire-worshippers' superstition has a lurking place in the minds of 
Ihe Persians or Kurds. Day after day, and at the same hour, I 
have seen the entire inhabitants of a village turn out and gaze in- 
tently upon the great orb of light slowly sinking into space on the 
distant horizon. 1 have questioned them about this subject. They 
indignantly repudiate the idea of any act of worship to the sun; they 
say that they do so because it is their habit, and because their 
fathers, grandfathers, and ancestors did the same thing before them. 

We rode by many gardens surrounded by high walls; some of 
these inclosures were five or six acres in extent. Cherry, apple, 
peach, and mulberry- trees abound throughout the district. A plen- 
tiful water-supply, which is brought from the mountains by means 
of artificial dikes, irrigates the various orchards. Little trenches 
intersect each other afmany places along the fields, and when the 
proprietor wishes, he can at once place his land under water. This 
must be an inestimable boon to the inhabitants during the hot 
months, as otherwise their entire crop would be destroyed by the 
heat. 

Soldiers dressed in a dirty sort of French uniform, but with black 
sheepskin hats of the extinguisher shape, sat outside the guard- 
houses in the different villages. They looked askantly at the Usebashe 
as he passed— for the Usebashe was in uniform. A wonderful sort 
of blue cape covered the upper part of his person, and red knicker- 
bockers stuffed in high boots, his extremities. A curved cimeter 
hung from his waist-belt. The red fez on his head, and on our 
guide's showed their allegiance to the Sultan. 

The two men clad in European costumes were also a source of 
wonder to the soldiers. Some of them gripped the flint fire-locks 



210 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



with which, they "were, armed, and made a movement as if tlzey 
would like to have had a shot at our little party. 

v Yes, you dogs! 1 have no doubt but that you would like to do 
so," said the old Usebaslie, shaking his fist at them after he had got 
to a sate distance. " However, your guns are only serviceable up 
to fifty yards, il takes you five minutes to load them! They are un- 
clean ones, these Persians; do you not think so, Effendi?" continued 
the old Usebashe. 

" I have seen so little of them 1 cannot judge. But their roads 
and houses are much better and cleaner than those which you have 
in Turkey." 

" That is true," said the captain, sorrowfully. " The little dogs 
can do some things well, but they are sly and deceitful. A Persian 
will kiss you on one cheek, and will stab you behind the back. He 
will call himself your friend, and will slander you to your neigh- 
bors. He will offer you the best horse in his stable: the offer comes 
from his lips, and not from his heart. When you know them better, 
you will find this out for yourself." 

CHAPTER LY. 

Tillage after village were left behind us, still there were no 
signs of Khoi. We had been told that it was only eight hours' 
march from Melhamee; two more sped by ere the walls of the city 
were in sight. Soon afterwards we rode through a narrow gate, 
which gives access to the town, and presently pulled up at a house 
belonging to the Turkish consul, who is the only diplomatic agent 
to be found in the city. He had been educated in Constantinople, 
and spoiie a little French. For the last two years he had been estab- 
lished in Khoi, and he greatly bewailed his "thus being cut oft from 
all European society. 

1 now learned that Eussian intrigues had been the means of very 
nearly creating a war between Persia and Turkey. There is a Turkish 
border-hamlet, called Kashka Beulah, about nine miles from Khoi. 
Some Persian soldiers had recently attacked this village, and had 
robbed the inhabitants of everything they possessed. 

Whilst the Persians were engaged in their work of pillage, some 
Turkish soldiers, under a Usebashe, arrived from an adjacent guard- 
house. But the Persians were more numerous. They captured 
the captain and seven of his men, and brought them prisoners to 
Khoi. A Turkish lieutenant in the guard-house heard of the fate 
of bis Usebashe, and arrested two Persian merchants w T ho happened 
to be in the neighborhood. He sent them as prisoners to Yan. The 
consul, on hear ing of this, telegraphed to his embassador at Teheran, 
for instructions how to act. The latter official sent back an answer 
that the Persian merchants were to be immediately released. The 
consul then wrote to the governor at Yan, informing him of the 
order he had received. The governor, however, declared that he 
could not comply with it without authority from Constantinople. 
After several weeks' delay, during which time the Turkish captain 
and his men had been kept in chains in the prison at Khoi, and had 
been treated like the commonest of malefactors, orders came from 
Teheran and Constantinople for the mutual exchange of prisoners. 



0£T HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI^OR. 211 



A day was fixed. At the appointed time the Turkish consul, with 
the prisoner and three hundred Persian soldiers, started tor the 
frontier. Here he was met by the Persian consul from Van. The 
latter was accompanied by the Persian captives and by an escort of; 
Turks. The troops then retired to a short distance. The consuls re- 
mained alone with their prisoners. The exchange was effected, 

" What was the origin of the disturbance?" 1 inquired of the con- 
sul. 

" That is exactly what 1 wished to discover," replied that official,, 
" 1 went to the Governor of Khoi— who, by the way, is the Shah's 
uncle— and asked him why his regular troops had first of all at- 
tacked our village. The reply was, ' My orders came from some one 
of higher rank than X am,' Latei on, it turned out that Russian 
agents at Teheran were the origin of the affair." 

" I am very dull here," now remarked the consul. "My wife- 
died six months ago. 1 1 have not been able to find any one to re- 
place her." 

" Why do you not take a Kurdish girl?" observed the TJsebashe. 
"They make the best of wives," he continued; "if their hus- 
bands have money they do not ask for any, if the husbands have nc* 
money the wives never bother their heads about the matter. In ad- 
dition to this they do not care about fine clothes. A long piece of 
calico and a pair of slippers content each one of them as well as all 
the silks and. satins in the bazaar at Erzeroum." 

"My late wife was a Kurd," replied the consul, sorrowfully, 
" She cost me very little." 

A servant entered the room and lit the speaker's pipe. 

" This man is my father-in-law," he added. " My mother-in-law 
cooks for me down-stairs. When I married their daughter 1 wanted 
some servants; my wife proposed that we should engage her father 
and mother. 1 did so, and have found them hard-working people. 
When my poor wife died, 1 allowed them to remain with me. When 
I marry again, my new lady will probably wish her own relations to 
come here: 1 shall be obliged to get rid of my present servants." 

" It is a very economical way of providing for a wife's relatives,' 11 
1 observed. 

" Yes," said the consul, laughing. " You could not make use 
of your mother-in-law as a cook in either Constantinople or London. 
Besides that, the women in your country cost their husbands a fort- 
une in dress." 

" Yes," 1 replied, " some of the women's dresses cost from 50 to 
€0 liras a piece, and after having been worn once or twice they are 
Ihrown away or given to the servants." 

" Allah!" said the Usebashe, " 50 or 60 liras! only thinK of it!" 

" The Inglis speaks the truth," said the consul. " I have heard 
of this before, when I was at Constantinople. My last wife cost 10 
liras," he continued; " I could buy five or six wives for the same 
price as a great English lady gives for her dress!" 

" Why do you not marry a Persian woman?" I now remarked. 
" By all accounts they are very pretty, and you would have an op- 
portunity of learning the language "—the consul having previously 
bewailed to me his ignorance of that tongue. 

"Marry a Persian, indeed!" interrupted the ITsebashe. "The 



212 OK" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOS-. 



Persians ■will not give their daughters in marriage to us Turks. 
They are very selfish," he added. We make no objections to our 
daughters marrying Persians. But the latter are most particular 
about this subject." 

" You are both Mohammedan nations," 1 remarked. 

" Yes we are," said the consul; " and the Armenians and your- 
selves are both Christian nations, but your tonus of Christianity are 
very different. There is as much difference between a Persian and 
a Turk as between an Armenian and yourself." 

" The Persians are very cruel," observed the Usebashe. " If a 
man commits a crime, and is detected, the authorities are not satis- 
fied by taking the culprit's life, but often torture him first — some- 
times by taking out his ej T es, and at others by mutilation." 

" The inhabitants do very odd things," said the consul. "For 
instance, a short time ago there was an official in this town who 
was extremely unpopular. He died, and you would have thought 
that the matter was over; but no, six months after the man's de- 
cease, some of the townspeople w r eni to the cemetery, exhumed the 
body, and hacked it to pieces. This was done by way of revenging 
themselves upon the official. There was a robbery in the bazaar," 
continued the speaker. " A man w as taken up on suspicion of being 
implicated in the theft; he swore that he was innocent, but accused 
another man. The iatter had nothing whatever to do with the rob- 
bery, but was unpopular in the town. Some people belonging to 
the bazaar went to the governor, and said to him : ' The man last 
arrested is the thief; you must order the executioner to cut his 
throat. ' The governor was weak enough to consent, the innocent 
person was put to death. Soon afterward the governor repented of 
what he had done. However, as he was in need of money at the time, 
he determined to turn his repentance to some account/ He ordered 
fifty of the richest people amongst those who had pressed him to ex- 
ecute the innocent man to be imprisoned, and he kept them in jail 
until such time as they had paid him a large sum of money." 

1 now walked round the fortifications of the town. They consist 
of a wall about thirty-five feet high, built of clay, with abiick foun- 
dation, and a dry ditch, which can be filled with water if necessary. 
There were sixteen old cannon on the rampaits. The Kurds arid 
the inhabitants Ihink that the place is impregnable. A battery of 
nine-pounders would be quite sufficient to destroy the fortifications, 
which are much out of repair. Any properly-equipped force ought 
to take the city, which contains 7,000 houses, in about half an hour. 

The soldiers in the different guard- houses ran outside the buildings. 
They presented arms to the consul as he walked with me through 
the streets. Presently we came to a place where two sentries had 
been posted. The men had put their flint muskets on the gound, 
and were engaged in gambling with each other — small balls of dried 
clay, something like marbles, taking the place of dice. 

CHAPTER LYI. 
1 arrived at the bazaar. It was a very large building, arched 
over in many places, and here and there is constructed of bricks. 
It was a hot afternoon. The bazaar was delightfully cool, many of 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 213 



the inhabitants had gone there merely with the object of lying in the 
shade. At almost every step we took, we came upon the tonus of 
some recumbent Persians. It was rather dark. The idlers' ribs 
must have suffered. A muttered curse would be the only sign of 
the men's disgust; they would then only turn over and be asleep 
again in another minute. 

The bazaar was better aaranged than any. of the market-places 
which 1 had visited in Anatolia. The shops belonging to men who 
sold one kind of article were all side by side, and not mixed up with 
the stalls belonging to traders in other merchandise. Some carpets 
w r ere very beautifully designed, and could have been purchased for 
one fourth of the price they command in the London market. The 
cutlery mostly came from Erivan in Russia. An immense quantity 
of gaudily-colored Russian calicoes were exposed for sale. 

We came to a samovar (tea-urn) shop. The owner, a sleepy- 
looking Persian, was very wide awake, so far as nis interests were 
concerned. He was engaged in a wordy warfare with a Kurd w r ho 
wanted to buy an urn for his house. The conversation became so 
loud, and the gesticulations of the Kurd were so energetic, that I 
thought he was about to attack the merchant. However, a minute 
later the affair was settled and the purchaser was drinking a glass 
■of tea with the salesman. 

Most of the houses in Khoi are built of a sort of brown clay. If 
it were not for the numerous mosques which are painted blue and 
green, 1he town would be very somber in its appearance. Many of 
the doors to the buildings were supplied with massive knockers— a 
rarity in Asiatic Turkey — and the many windows on the ground- 
floors, which were guarded by iron bars, rather reminded me of 
Cordova. 

Streams of muddy water ran through the streets. Hundreds of 
women were busily engaged in washing the domestic apparel. 

We passed by an open window, ancC on looking in, 1 found that 
the building was used as a school. A master w r as seated on the win- 
dow-sill, fifty or more children were clustered round his feet. He 
was teaching them pieces of the Koran, which the little ones were 
endeavoring to learn by heart. A class of lads, averaging, 1 should 
say, from fifteen to twenty years of ace, were squatting in a corner 
occupied in learning how to write— a very rare accomplishment in 
Persia, and principally confined to the merchant classes. Some of 
the lads had escaped for a moment from the vigilance of their mas- 
ter, and were buying oranges from a peddler. The fruit had been 
brought from Tabriz, as there are no orange trees in the neighbor- 
hood of Khoi. Suddenly the Hodja discovered their absence; he 
ran outside the school. He did not confine his blows to the lads, 
but allowed the peddler to share them with his pupils. 

"We arrived at some pillaff shops; here legs and wings of chick- 
- ens, surrounded by piles of rice, were placed before the merchants. 
One of them, taking a piece of meat in his fingers from a plate, 
handed it to me. He wanted my opinion of his wares. 

" Good!" 1 said. 

" Have you pillaff s in your country?" he inquired. 
"Yes." 

" But not like my pillaff?" 



214 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



" No, not so good." 
. This greatly delighted the trader; running out of his shop, he in- 
sisted that 1 should return with him and taste his sweetmeats. 
These last were some of them very well made, and had been manu- 
factured with a considerable amount of skill — a trade going on in 
bon-bons between Khoi and other towns in the interior. The Per- 
sian ladies are very fond of sweetmeats, a large quantity of these 
delicacies being consumed in the different harems. 

I wanted to buy some article of native manufacture in silver. It 
was impossible; the jewelers kept nothing by them ready made; they 
could have executed an order, but this would have been a tedious 
affair. After having visited the mosque in the town — a building 
which was rather more lofty than the Turkish mosques, but in 
other respects very similar — 1 began to think that it was time for 
me to continue my journey to Van. 

It was very warm here, but the route from "Van to Kars would be 
covered with snow, and 1 had only two months left of my leave of 
absence to complete the journey to England. The consul pressed 
me to slay another day in his house. However, we had commenced 
making our preparations, and 1 was more eager to leave the town as 
1 had been given to understand that my arrival had caused great 
uneasiness to the Russian officials in Erivan. From their being so 
close to Khoi they have begun to look upon this town as their own 
territory. 

The paternal government was alarmed lest 1 should be murdered 
by the Persians; and after the extreme solicitude the Russian au- 
thorities had shown for my safety when 1 was traveling to Khiva, I 
should have been deeply grieved to have given them any more an- 
noyance on my account. 

The following morning we left Khoi at daybreak. The city 
stands on a plain, and is surrounded by a chain of hills, but they 
are at a considerable distance from the walls. 

The latter gradually disappeared, and, after a march of two hours 
and a half along a good road we arrived at Kotoor Boghaz, a famous 
pass which divides the territory of the Sultan from that of the 
Shah. There is no Persian military station in the neighborhood. 
The Turks have built a sort of block-house at the entrance of the 
gorge. Here I found a small force consisting of one captain, two 
lieutenants, forty infantry, and twenty-eight cavalry soldiers. 
Ahmed was the name of the captain. I now discovered that he 
was the identical officer who, six months previous, had been made 
prisoner by the Persians, and taken to Khoi. He informed me that 
one Turkish soldier, Osman by name, had been killed in the fray, 
and that he himself had been kept in chains for forty days in a jail 
at Khoi, during which time he had nothing given him to eat save 
bread and water. In addition to this he had to sleep on the bare 
floor. According to my informant, the Persian captives who had 
been sent to Van had been well treated. They had been given beds 
in which to sleep, and had been supplied with pillaff. 

" What do you think was the cause of the Persians attacking the 
Turkish village?" 1 inquired. 

" The Russians were the origin of the disturbance," replied the 
officer. " While I was being taken a prisoner to Khoi 1 heard the 



OIs" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MES T OR. 



215 



Persian soldiers say: 'The Russians are our fathers,' and they 
laughed at me as they said so. The sooner we fight Russia the 
better," continued the speaker. " She will not be half so trouble- 
some to us in open fight as she is at present." 

We proceeded onward through the Kotoor Pass. A little stream, 
called the Kotoor Su, dashed along at our feet, and gradually be- 
came wider as it received a succession of small tributaries from the 
adjacent mountains. 

The defile presents a series of magnificent positions for defense. 
It is in many places not more than 200 yards broad. Precipitous 
heights look down upon the stream from either hand. 

There are several mineral springs in this neighborhood— some 
being of a sulphurous nature. These are largely used by the Kurds, 
who, if unwell, come here during the summer months and drink 
the waters. 

Presently the guide turned off the path; ascending some rising 
ground, he dismounted by the side of a spring. Taking a tin cup 
from my holster, 1 desired him to fill it, after which 1 lasted the 
water. It was warm and reminded me of the Sprudal spring at 
Carlsbad, but is much stronger. Two glasses full of this Kotoor 
water are equivalent in their effects to at least four of the Sprudel. 

Snow lay on the ground beneath us. At first in patches, then 
"becoming more frequent, it covered the winding path. A hailstorm 
came on. A cutting wind whistled through the gorge. The sud- 
den difference between the heat at Khoi, and the cold in the Kotoor 
Pass, struct a chill to our veiy bones. We had been marching for 
six hours; there were still five more ere we could reach, a resting- 
place. 

Dismounting from our horses we ran by their side, and tried to 
restore circulation in our bodies. The rapid changes of climate in 
this part of Asia Minor are very dangerous to travelers. The natives 
have a saying: " A chill in the evening is death in the morn." If 
any one experiences a chill, and does not succeed in becoming warm 
again immediately, he is certain to feel some ill effects. We passed 
l)y another hot-spring; it issues from the bank of the Kotoor river. 
The guide, borrowing my tin, dismounted, and began to wash his 
mouth. 

" Why are you doing that?" I inquired. 
" For tooth-ache," was the reply. 

"We now learned that the Kurds have an implicit belief in the 
•efficacy of this water for such complaints. 



CHAPTER LV1L 

1 was not sorry to reach Kotoor. The track had been very bad 
lor the last half of our journey. An eleven hours' march made 
under such circumstances is tiring for man as well as beast. 

There is a quarantine station in the town. The medical officer in 
charge has to examine all people traveling from Persia to Turkey 
by this route. This is done to prevent" persons suffeiing from 
cholera or plague spreading these maladies throughout the Sultan's 
dominions. 



216 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



The governor of Kotoor was a Persian by birth. His father had 
been in the Shah's service, but had changed his allegiance and 
enabled the Sultan to take possession of some land round Kotoor, 
which originally belonged to Persia, He now informed me that the 
Persians were forming a military camp at Salmas, and said that 
probably this was being done with the connivance of Russia. 

The medical officer, an Italian, entered the room ; he was about 
eighty years of age, and had been in Kotoor since 184?. His 
emoluments consist of ten piastres per head, which he receives fiom 
every one who passes along the Kotoor road from Persia to Turkey. 

"A Russian came here the other day," observed the doctor. 
"He was disguised as a Persian, and thought that 1 did not recog- 
nize his nationality." 

" What was the object of his journey?" 

" Probably to stir up the Kurds, and invite the Armenians to rise 
against the Mohammedans," replied the doctor. " There is a great 
deal of mineral wealth in this neighborhood," he continued; " coal 
and iron abound within two miles of this place." 

" The Russians would like to have this territory for two reasons,'* 
remarked the governor; "first, because having Kotoor and Van, 
they would be able to make depots and preparations for a march, 
further south upon Bagdad and Mosul; and, secondly, on account 
of the mines in the district." 

A Kurdish chieftain who lived near Bitlis had recently written to 
the Sultan, offering him the services of 20,000 men, in the event of 
a war between Turkey and Russia. His offer was accepted, and the 
loyal Kurd's heart had been gladdened by the present of a mag- 
nificent silk turban and a sword. 

The mountaineer^ near Kotoor could all be relied upon by Turks. 
But there was reason to mistrust the sincerity and good faith of the 
E urds in the neighborhood of Moush and Aleshkert, They were 
said to have recently received large sums of money, besides arms, 
from Russia, 

" If the Russians were to be worsted the Kurds would be the first 
to turn these arms against their quandom friends," added the gov- 
ernor, ' ' for the people about Aleshkert are proverbial for one thing- 
— namely, that they always take the winning side." 

The following morning I said good-by to the hospitable old doc- 
tor, in whose house 1 had slept. He had kindly given me a bed in 
one corner of his room— he himself, and the rest of his family, 
having slept in the other. 

We rode toward Van. It is about sixty miles distant from 
Kotoor. Our track for the first hour ran within the mountain 
gorge—a continuation of the Kotoor Pass, but which here is several 
rhiles wide. After riding by several Kurdisn villages we began to 
ascend a succession of rising slopes. Plateau after plateau, each 
higher than its neighbor, were extended in front of us; the snow at 
each moment became deeper. It was evident that we could not 
reach Van on that evening. 1 determined to break the journey at 
the village of Moullah Hassan, which would be about a ten hours' 
march from Kotoor* Several Kurdish merchants had joined our 
party; they were traveling from Khoi, and drove before them oxen 
and calves laden with timbaki (Persian tobacco). 



OJS" HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 217 



One of the Kurds possessed a mule. This animal, besides his 
master's personal effects, carried the post-bag from Khoi to Van. 
The Kurd led his mule tor some time, but at length, tiring of this, 
lie turned the animal loose, and drove him before our party, in com- 
pany with the oxen and calves belonging to the other traders. We 
Lad* nearly reached Moullah Hassan; the mule had outstripped the 
.rest of the caravan, 1 was riding behind him. The road suddenly 
clipped. There was a declivityln front of us. 1 lost sight of the 
animal. He had disappeared. 

It was becoming dark. 1 pulled up my horse for a moment — it 
was lucky that 1 did so, for in another moment we should have been 
in a river— the dip being neither more nor less than the bed of the 
stream, which was covered over with a thin film of ice and two or 
three feet of snow. In another second the mule's head appeared 
above the surface. His frantic struggles showed that he was en- 
deavoring to gain a foothold. 

The proprietor of the animal came up. 

" My new yellow trousers!" was his first remark. A fearful oath 
then resounded from his lips. 

He had bought some clothes at Khoi, They were in his saddle- 
bags and on the mule— the letter-bag being evidently considered by 
the muleteer as something quite secondary to his personal attire. 
He tried to reach the animal, but the ice, breaking, let him into the 
water. In the meantime the exertions of the mule had loosened his 
surcingle, presently it eave way; saddle, and letters, in addition to 
the wardrobe of the Kurd, slipped off the animal's back. They 
sunk to the bottom of the river. 

Our guide, turning to the right, proposed that we should ride up 
the stream, and try and find a place where the ice would bear. 
This was done. About half an hour afterwards we found ourselves 
beneath the loof of a Kurdish farmer— the chief proprietor in the 
Tillage of Moullah Hassan. 

There were several IN estorian villages in the neighborhood: how- 
ever, the inhabitants of these hamlets possessed the reputation of 
being dirtier than the Kurds, so the traveler who is wise will in- 
Tariably elect to pass the night with the mountaineers. 

The Kurd whose mule had fallen into the water entered the room. 
In one hand he bore something which was dripping wet. He 
salamed, and then began to wring out the article he was carrying; 
the trousers were exposed to view. Once of a yellow color, they 
were now a dull brown. The Kurd, stretching them out on the 
floor, gazed in a melancholy manner upon the soiled vestments. 

" Aliorse and two sheep," he remarked with a sob; " Eftendi, 
Lave pity upon me!" 

" What does he want?" I inquired of Mohammed. 

It appeared that the Kurd wished to buy a wife from a neighbor- 
ing farmer who had some marriageable daughters. Their father, 
nothing loath, and who was in want of a pair of broad yellow trou- 
sers, had consented, provided the candidate for his girl's hand would 
provide him with a beautiful pair, a turban, and some tea. Broad 
yellow drawers, or pants, as Yankees would call them, are not often 
to be met with in Kurdistan. They are brought from Erivan in 
.Russia, and are greatly prized by the mountaineers. The Kurd 



218 02ST HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI^ T OR. 



bad been to Khoi on purpose, had sold there a horse and two 
sheep; with the proceeds of the sale he had purchased the attire m 
question. He w T as now dreadfully alarmed lest the father of the 
girl should decline giving his daughter in exchange for the soiled 

apparel. 

" But what can 1 do in the matter?" was my next question. 

" Give me a baksheesh," said the Kurd, " and 1 will return to* : 
Khoi and buy some more garments." 

The man had forgotten about the mail-bag, which lay buried be- 
neath the frozen surface of the river. 

Desiring him to go and fish up the letters, 1 promised that, later 
in the day, 1 would take his case into consideration. 

The snow disappeared as we approached the town of Van. We 
rode by a small lake, about twelve miles from our halting-place. 
Continuing on over a succession of table-lands, the path sloped 
down toward the great lake or sea, to which the capital of Armenia 
gives a name. 

Yan stands in a plain, and is surrounded by orchards filled with 
fruit-trees. The ground in the neighborhood is highly cultivated, 
corn and other cereals flourishing throughout the district. 

1 had sent forward a letter of introduction to the Governor of Yan 
from Ismail Pasha of Erzeroum. The man to whom 1 had intrusted 
the epistle had not taken the trouble to deliver it. The governor 
was quite ignorant of my arrival. 

1 stopped at his house, and, going up to the reception- chamber* 
found him busily engaged in conversation with an official who had 
recently arrived from Constantinople, to inquire into the excesses 
said to have been committed by some soldiers upon the Armenians 
in Yan. 

The Pasha received me very courteously, in spite of my not hav- 
ing a letter for him; he remarked, with a smile, that there were no 
hotels in Yan as in Constantinople, and said that he would provide 
me with a room in a barrack which had been lately erected in the 
town. 

The officer commanding the garrison now entered the room, and 
accompanied me to my quarters. The barrack was two stories 
high, and in the form of a square, with a court -yard for drill in tho 
center of the building. The officers and men's rooms were on the- 
first story, and below them the stables for the horses. The apart- 
ment given me was large and clean. The walls were whitewashed, 
the floor was covered with a Persian carpet. A large looking-glass 
— the first 1 had seen since 1 quitted our consul's house in Erze- 
roum — was suspended from the walls. 

There were only half a battalion of infantry and a battery of 
Krupp guns at that time in Yan. The remainder of the garrison* 
consisting of one battalion and a half, had marched the previous 
week to the neighborhood of Bitlis, where some Kurds had burned 
down a Turkish guarddiouse. 

CHAPTER LV11L 
The f ollowing morning 1 walked with the commandant to see the 
artillery at practice. The drill was fairly done. The guns were 



ON HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIjSTOR. 219 



Jiorsed with. fine-looking animals from 15-3 to 16 hands high, mostly 
grays, and brought irom European Turkey. The officer who com- 
manded took great pride in his battery. A lew hours alter the drill 
was over, he accompanied me through the stables. The steel was 
bright, and the harness in thorough good order. When I remarked 
this to the commander, he replied: 

" Effendi, 1 was educated in the military school at Constantinople. 
11 the rest of our officers had been there, we should have a better 
army. But, please God, lor all that, we shall give the Russians 
more to do than they expect." 

1 now went to see the citadel. It stands oh a rock in the middle 
of the town, and is about 500 teet above the level ol the lake. 

Van is surrounded on three sides by a chain of hills, which are at 
a distance of from three to seven miles from the town. On the fourth 
side it is bounded by the lake which bears its name. There is a 
swamp towaid the west, and close io the houses. This makes the 
place very unhealthy in the summer months — typhus and other 
levers are prevalent in the district. The military surgeon, a Hun- 
garian, who accompanied me in my ride to the citadel, observed 
that several complaints had been made to the authorities at Con- 
stantinople, as to the sanitary state of Van, and a letter had been 
sent to tne Medical Department recommending that the swamp 
should be drained. A Pacha had died of typhus only six months 
before; this had thoroughly aroused the new governor.' It had acted 
upon him like the death of a director, in a railway accident, acts 
upon the other directors of the line. However, nothing had been 
done up to the present time toward carrying the governor's and doc- 
tor's suggestions into effect. 

1 now learn that the lake contains natron. The townspeople have 
a very simple manner of obtaining (his substance. In the summer 
months they pour water from the lake into large shallow basins ; the 
heat of the sun evaporates the water, and carbonate of soda is depos- 
ited at the bottom of the vessels. It is afterward sent to Erzeroum 
and Stamboul. The inhabitants of Van use this substance lor wash- 
ing purposes as a substitute for soap. 

The road wound round the height on which the citadel stands. 
1 Alter about a fifteen minutes' climb, our horses reached the summit. 
' Here there were several very old guns, some dating back more than 
250 years. Large piles ol stone balls lay behind many ol the pieces; 
the commandei, pointing at them, lemarked that nowadays they 
would not be ol any use, although in the last century they had struck 
terror into the midst ol a Persian host. The modern citadel, if it 
may be termed by that name, is merely a block-house, with accom- 
modations for about 100 soldiers. There are many galleries cut in 
the solid rock, some of which were used in old days as quarters for 
the troops, and others as dungeons for prisoners. Some heavy 
chains were lying on the floors, or fastened to rings in the rock. 
Presently we came to an enormous cavern filled with stone cannon- 
balls. The commandant informed me that these had been brought 
there just before Nadir Shah's attack upon Van. 

" Nadir Shah besieged this town for seven years," continued the 
officer; " look at the marks of some of his handiwork." With these 



220 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA illisOR. 



words he showed us a few holes in the wall which had apparently 
been made by artillery fire. 

Many ancient Greek and Assyrian coins had been found in the 
neighborhood of the citadel, and, according to the doctor, the place 
abounds with inscriptions in characters which can not be read by any 
of the inhabitants. 

There is a well of naphtha about fifty yards from the block house. 
The commandant, going with me to the spot, made a soldier draw 
out some of the contents. The well was very deep, and the inhab- 
itants of Van had used the naphtha from time immemorial. The 
doctor was doubtful as to whether it was a natural well, or merely a 
large cistern which had been titled many years ago with this liquid, 
possibly for the use of the garrison. 

" Are the gunsin the citadel ever discharged?" 1 inquired. 

■ ' No," said the commandant; " they are all useless with the ex- 
ception of one small piece, which we keep for firing salutes during 
the Bairam. This rock is much too near the town to be used as a 
fort," he continued. " A hospital ought to be built here, or it would 
be a good site for a depot of stores; but as a defensive position it is 
useless against modern artillery." 

We came to a place in the rock where it descends abruptly for 
several hundred feet. " An Englishman was let down from hereby 
a cord some years ago/' observed the doctor. " About 200 feet be- 
low this spot there is~an inscription cut on the stone. The inscrip- 
tion is about Semiramis. Formerly we all wished to know what was 
the meaning of the writing; but no one in Van was bold enough to 
descend the rock, or, even if some Armenian or Turk had dared to 
make the attempt, he would have been unable to decipher the char- 
acters. Well," continued the speaker, an Englishman came hem 
and was lowered by cords over the precipice. If he had fallen even 
from the spot where the inscription is cut, he must have been dashed 
to pieces, as it is a long way above the rocks. However, your coun- 
tryman succeeded in taking an impression of the characters, and 1 
believe a translation of them is in the British Museum. You can see 
the inscription from the town itself," he added. The letters are 
very large; they occupy a place about twelve feet long by eight wide. " 

W e returned toward the barrack. On the way 1 took the oppor- 
tunity of looking at the characters on the rock. They are cut on 
four square blocks, each block being placed by the side of its fellow. 
Imagine four gigantic sheets of: ihe " Times," placed one alongside 
the other, and covered with huge, quaintly-formed letters; you will 
then be able to form an idea of the appearance of the inscription. 
As you look at the writing from the ground, it appears that in the 
third square from the right the letters are a little defaced, but in the 
others the characters stand out as clear as on the day when they 
were first chiseled. Several Armenian children were playing at 
soldiers in the street, their fathers and brothers were being instructed 
in drill in the barrack-yard. Some little military enthusiasm existed 
in the town, even amongst the Christians; and- the governor had 
promulgated the Sultan's edict that every one of his subjects was to 
be taught the use of arms. 

I paid the commandant a visit. His apartments adjoined mine. 
Whilst 1 was with him several men arrived— some wishing to be 



02T HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MltfOR. 



221 



soldiers, others desirous of being released from the conscription. A. 
fine-looking Kurd was amongst the last-mentioned applicants. He 
was dressed in the usual picturesque costume of his race, but, in ad- 
dition, wore a sort of white muslin shawl, which enveloped him 
from head to foot. 

" You will make a capital soldier," said the commandant. " Yon 
had better serve." 

" Bey Effendi," replied the man, " 1 am ruptured." 
"Really," said the doctor, who was present in the room ; "on 
which side?" 

" The right," replied the man, pointing to his groin. 

' 4 Then you will do very well for the infantry, ' ' observed the 
Hungarian. A man must be ruptured on both sides to be freed 
from service in that branch of the army." 

The Kurd went away rather crestfallen. 1 then learned that it is 
a common practice amongst those mountaineers who do not wish to 
serve to purposely rupture themselves. This they do by pressing 
with their finger and thumb on the lower part of the stomach until 
a swelling arises. The operation hurts. After a man has ruptured 
himself on one side he does not feel inclined to repeat the process on 
the other. The doctor, who gave me the information, observed that 
the Kurds have a way of curing ruptures which is not generally- 
known to the medical faculty. They burn the skin around the rupt- 
ured spot with a hot iron, the muscles will then contract, and this 
often effects a cure. 

Three American missionaries called : they were living at a village 
about an hour's ride from Van. They had been there for some 
years, but had not succeeded in making many converts. 

They described the country as being in a very unsettled state, and 
said that they had lately heard from some other missionaries near 
Bitlis that a Kurdish sheik in that neighborhood had recommended 
them not to go to the mountains, as they were in the habit of do- 
ing during the summer months, for he could not guarantee their 
safety. 

The missionaries at Van were eager to know what part England; 
was likely to take in the event of a war. Although Americans, they 
are looked upon by the inhabitants as Englishmen, and the English 
flag is much more respected in Asia Minor than that of the United. 
States. 

The commissioner who had been sent from Constantinople, to in- 
quire about the recent disturbances at Van, and the burning of the 
Armenian bazaar, entered the room. He informed me that imme- 
diately after the conflagration had occurred, fabulous reports as to 
the amount of the property destroyed had been published in the 
Armenian papers. It was first stated that 1,000,000 liras would not 
cover the loss experienced by the merchants in Van. Subsequently 
it was said that 200,000 liras in specie had been stolen by the Turk- 
ish soldiery, and that goods to the value of 300,000 liras had been 
destroyed by the flames. 

When the commissioner arrived at Van, his first act was to make 
a list of all the merchants who had shops in the bazaar. Then, 
sending for each man separately, he asked him what was the nature 
of his merchandise, and at how much he valued his losses. When 



222 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



the commissioner added up the sums claimed by all the merchants 
in Van, he found that the total amount did not exceed 96,000 liras. 
In addition to this the Armenians acknowledged having saved goods 
to the value ol 10,000 liras. 

In the official's opinion 23,000 liras would cover the entire loss; 
and from what I afterward saw of the ruins of the bazaar, and judg- 
ing from the small area over wmich they extended, I am inclined to 
believe that he had fairly estimated the damage. 

The Armenian newspapers, probably instigated by Russian agents, 
had declared that the Turkish troops stationed in Van had first set 
fire to the bazaar, and then pillaged it in the confusion. The com- 
missioner, after the most searching inquiries, was unable to discover 
that the troops were in any way implicated in the affair. Several 
Armenians Kept petroleum and lucifer matches in their warehouses; 
Ms idea was that the fire originated either by spontaneous combus- 
tion, or through some one accidentally dropping a lighted match. 

The soldiers had been called out to help to extinguish the fire. 
Thinking that the men might have stolen something during the 
conflagration, the commissioner asked the commander to issue an 
order for all the garrison to march to Erzeroum on the following 
morning. This was done. Shortly afterward the different battal- 
ions left the town. The commissioner, accompanied by some Ar- 
menian merchants, met the troops on the road. The soldier's bag- 
gage was then searched, and each man in succession. Nothing was 
lound which could in any way connect the troops with the robbery. 



CHAPTER L1X. 

1 now walked to an extempore market winch the Armenians are 
making use of until the old one is reconstructed. With the excep- 
tion of quantities of rough silk brought from Persia, raw cotton, 
and carbonate of soda, which had been taken from the lake, there 
was literally nothing to see. 

It was said that there were 20,000 inhabitants in the town; 1 am 
inclined to believe that the number has been exaggerated. The 
market-place which had been destroyed by fire stood on a very small 
area of ground. The impression conveyed to my mind was that the 
whole town did not contain above 16,0*00 inhabitants. The Pasha 
receives a yearly salary of 2,200 liras, and is paid in gold. The other 
officials are not so fortunate ; the pay of the commander of the gar- 
rison only amounted to £20 a month, and was always several 
months in arrear; in addition to this he was paid in Turkish bank- 
notes. The Hungarian had a' contract with the government; his pay 
amounted to £l'f per month, and had to be given him in gold; in 
consequence of this he was quite as well off as the commander. 

From the market-place I went to the Armenian church, which 
stands in the middle of the town. It consists of several rooms, one 
of them being very much like a wooden barn, the others are built of 
stone with arched roots. There was nothing to be seen in the build- 
ing save a few tawdry pictures ot saints; it was carpeted in the same 
way as the Turkish mosques. The priest who accompanied us, rais- 
ing a curtain, showed me an inscription in cuneiform characters cut 
ill the stoae. ' , : , , ~ it "•>,' A fin^ ..-i , fi f V^ai'dfrisfW' s^jm^HnBl 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



223 



" This part of the building is very old/* he said; l< it was former- 
ly a heathen temple. ' ' 
" How old?" I inquired. 

" One thousand eight hundred years," said the priest. 
" Nonsense, brother," said another, " it is two thousand." 
' 1 Sav three thousand, and you will be nearer the mark, ' ' added a 
third. 

It was evident that none of these gentlemen had any data to go 
upon for their calculations; 1 left the church rather disappointed. 
1 had hoped that some of the divines might be able to give me in- 
formation as to the antiquities of the city. The Armenian clergy 
do not trouble their heads about such matters; their time is so taken 
up in the performance of idolatrous rites, and in looking after the wel- 
fare of the fairer portion of their flock, that they have not a moment 
to spare for the study of the ancient history of Armenia. 

The Armenian who wishes to be a priest must serve in six differ- 
ent grades before he can be ordained. He must be an exorcist, 
porter, reader, sub-deacon, candle-lighter, and deacon. If he has 
any interest with his bishop, he can pass through all these grades in 
one day. 

As a priest, he is allowed to marry; however, like the clergy be- 
longing to the Greek Church, if his wife dies, the Armenian can 
not take unto himself a second spouse. He then may become a 
monk, and live, free of expense,, in one the monasteries. Isext in 
order, but above the monks, are the bishops and the two patriarchs 
— one residing in Constantinople, the other at Jerusalem — the patri- 
arch at Constantinople being looked up to by the Armenians as a 
sort of civil head, besides being their spiritual guide. We now 
come to the Catholicos, who is first of all in the ecclesiastical hier- 
archy. He lives in Russia, near Mount Ararat, and is the chief per- 
sonage of the Armenian Church. 

AH bishops and priests have to wear beards. The bishops are 
ordained by the Catholicos, and a council of bishops consecrates the 
latter. The Armenian Christians worship pictures; confess to their 
priests ; offer prayers for the dead, and ask for the intercession of 
their saints. An 'oil is used for the baptism of children. It is called 
■meira. The Armenians believe that this oil has boiled without any 
fire having been placed under it, and they think that this has been 
effected through the miraculous power of the Catholicos. Whoever 
and whatever touches this oil is made holy, and is looked upon as 
having been sanctified. 

The" Catholicos sells the meira, and makes a very large sum by the 
sale of the oil. The other revenues of the church arise from baptis- 
mal and burial fees, prayers for the dead, taxes imposed upon the 
people by the ecclesiastics, voluntary contributions and money left 

| in ihe wills of devotees. 

According to an American missionary at Erzeroum, the Rev. 
Moses Parmelee, who has published a work which treats of the Ar- 
menian clergy, "many of the higher ecclesiastics become very 

- wealthy at the expense bf the poor people whom they cheat and op- 
press." 

_ He also remarks that the Bible of the Armenians is in their an- 
cient language, which is not understood by the masses of the people. 



224 ON HOESEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIXOR. 



They were a tiee nation till the beginning of the eleventh century, 
"but later on the Moguls and Turks devastated Armenia, and the in- 
habitants have never raised their heads since. 

There is a curious tradition connected with the Armenian faith. 
It is to the effect that, at the beginning of our era, some envoys from 
Abgar, King of Armenia, happened to be in Jerusalem. Whilst they 
were in the city they saw Jesus . Christ, and afterward informed their 
sovereign of the miracles which our Saviour was performing 
throughout Syria. The monarch was a leper, and, thinking that 
the same supernatural being who had saved so many lives in Jerusa- 
lem might be able to do something for him, the king wrote, say the 
Armenians, the following letter to the Saviour: 

" Abgar, son of Arshma, Prince of this land, to Jesus, the Sa- 
viour and benefactor of man. Greeting. 1 have heard of Thee, and 
of the cures wrought by Thy hands without remedies and without 
XDlants. For it is'said that Thou makest the blind to see, the lame 
to walk. The lepers are healed, and spirits are cast out. Thou 
liealest the unfortunate afflicted with long and inveterate diseases. 
Thou dost raise the dead. As 1 have heard of all the wonders done 
by Thee, 1 have concluded that Thou art either God come down 
Irom heaven, or the son of God, to do such things. 1 therefore have 
written beseeching Thee to deign to come to me and cure my dis- 
ease. 1 have alscTheard that the Jews use Thee ill, and lay snares to 
destroy Thee. I have here a little city pleasantly situated, and suf- 
ficient for us both." 

Jesus replied: " After 1 have gonel will send one of My disciples, 
who shall cure thy malady, and give life to thee and thine." 

Some Armenians say that Christ caused the imprint of His face to 
be left on a handkerchief and gave it to the envoys, telling them 
that it would cure their master. This is cited to justif}^ the adora- 
tion of pictures, which is part of the Armenian faith/ According 
to another tradition, the handkerchief never reached the leprous 
king, for the envoys who were carrying it to their master were at- 
tacked by brigands, and it was stolen on the way. This version tells 
lis that Thaddeus subsequently healed the leprous sovereign. 

It was the 7th of March. I had already spent several days in 
Yan, and contrary to my hopes, had not benefited by the rest 1 
was still suffering from dysentery; instead of the complaint getting 
better, it had become worse. By all account we should be able to 
find milk in most of the Kurd and l ezeed villages between Tan and 
Kars; so I determined to start for the latter place and try what a 
milk and rice diet would do toward restoring my health and strength. 
"We rode for two hours by the side of the lake: then, leaving the 
blue water, ascended the low range of hills. The sun's rays were 
very powerful; a mirage was formed before us. Miles upon miles 
of water were reflected in the sky. Presently we crossed a little 
stream known as the Mahmod Tchai, and after a short march 
halted at Gull— a small village with thirty houses, half belonging to 
Armenians, half to Mohammedans. 

The morn breaks. We ride over some high table-land, and then 
Teturn to the lake. Our route lies along its shores. Sandhills 
slope down to the water's edge; myriads of starlings, flit about the 
beach; pelicans and other wild fowl sail along the" surface of the 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MOTOR. 



225 



deep. After a six hours' journey we rest at Paz-% small Kurd vil- 
lage with only ten houses. 

The following day we marched along a good track to Tishikoom- 
lekui, a devil-worshipers' village. Then crossing the Bendimah 
River— here about thirty yards wide — on a stone bridge, we contin- 
ued to Karahana, and so on to Ardish, an Armenian village with 
two hundred houses and a resident Caimacan. 

A pretty Kurdish girl., whom 1 had seen at Paz, accompanied us 
to the latter place. 1 now learned that the females in some parts of 
Kurdistan have a strange custom. This is to beset any stranger 
who is about to enter or quit theii village. The girls dance round 
the wayfarer, and take the opportunity to divest him of his apparel. 
"W hen he is in a nude state, they seize their victim and carry him 
with them before some old matron,* complaining to her that their 
prisoner has grossly insulted them. The man is lucky if he escapes 
with his clothes minus the cash in his pockets, 



CHAPTER LX. 

We reached Akserai. 1 was informed by my host, an Armenian, 
that the Christians in this district live in constant dread of tneir 
warlike neighbors, the Kurds— and the more particularly of the 
Kurds from Persia. These mountaineers sometimes made raids upon 
the villages and committed all sorts of excesses on the women. Only 
thiee months previous a scene of this description had taken place at 
Akserai. The Kurds had come there in the night; five of the fe- 
males in the village had been ravished by the assailants. 

The Armenian who gave me this information declared that he 
liked the Pasha at Tan, but said that the latter was powerless to 
prevent these attacks. There were five thousand Kurds in the mount- 
ains, and all were well-armed men. Artillery could not be trans- 
ported in those regions. The troops at the disposal of the govern- 
ment were too few to be of any real assistance. 

There were many hot springs in Lake Van, and I was assured 
that, in places, a man could not put his hand in the water, without 
being scalded. 

Fish, according to my informant, are only caught in the spring 
months. The finny tribe then descend the rivers to the lake and 
are taken in large numbers. 

The villagers draw three nets across the mouths of the rivers. 
There are funnels in the first two nets, which are left open for the 
fish to pass. The apertures in the second net being much smaller 
than those in the first. When the men discover, by tne pressure 
against the outer net, that they have as many fish as the trammels 
will hold, they close the funnels, and draw the nets together. The 
captives, in their endeavors to escape, leap several feet into the air, 
and the scene is a highly animated one. No large fishes are met 
with, their average size being from one to two pounds. When a suffi- 
cient number have been taken, the women salt them down, and they 
are kept for winter consumption. 

* Major Millingen goes more fullv into particulars about this custom of the 
Kurdish women. See Appendix XIT. 
8 



5P - 



226 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 

There is a greafdeal of plow-land in the neighborhood of Akserai 
and, on inquiry, 1 learned that corn is grown here in large quantities. 

We rode along the shores of the lake for two hours, and after tra- 
versing a well cultivated country, reached Zerekli. Here many of 
the inhabitants were seated on the roofs of their houses— the women 
working and the men basking in the sun. A few soldiers could be 
seen mending their uniform, and an old Armenian woman was oc- 
cupied in stitching a shirt belonging to a truculent-looking sergeant. 
This gentleman sat beside her, sans chemise, and smoking a long chi- 
bouk ; volumes of smoke from his pipe were slowly wreathing them- 
selves in the atmosphere. 

My host was engaged in mending the roof of his house. A 
buffalo, or some heavy animal, had walked upon it. The part near 
the chimney had given way. 

Thousands of starlings were perched on some trees in the rear of 
the dwellings. Many of these.birds could be seen hopping about in 
close proximity to a crowd of Turkish and Armenian urchins. The 
latter were very different to English lads; for if the starlings had set- 
tled down in one of our own villages, it would not have been long 
ere some boy or other had thrown a stone at them. 

It was pleasanter sitting on the roof of the house than being an 
inmate of its subterranean recesses. But the night turned bitterly 
cold. A thick mist arose from the lake. It warned the villagers to 
retire within their dwellings, if they did not wish to risk catching a 
lever. 

We followed their example, and in a short time experienced one of 
the plagues with which Moses afflicted the Egyptians. There were 
some loose boards in a corner of the stable; 1 took them and tried to 
remove my body from the onslaught of the vermin by making a sort 
of scaffolding to sleep upon, three feet from the floor. However, it 
was all to no purpose. If my tormentors could not reach me by 
climbing from the ground, they ascended the sides of the building 
and dropped down upon the scaffolding from the ceiling. 

Sleep was out of the question. Starting before daybreak, we con- 
tinued our journey alongside the lake. Thousands of geese and 
ducks were skimming along the surf ace of its waters. In the dis- 
tance some broad-bottomed boats could be seen. They were laden 
with wood, and were transporting this aiticle of fuel to the adjacent 
villages. 

We crossed two small rivers, and then, continuing through deep 
snow, arrived after a six hours' march at Patnos. A river of the 
same name runs through the village, which contains fifty houses, 
and the stream, continuing its course a few miles further, runs into 
the Murad. Patnos was garrisoned by a company of soldiers. A 
Mudir looked after the welfare of the inhabitants. The troops were 
not strong enough to cope with the Kurds in the neighborhood. The 
result was that the misdeeds of the mountaineers went unpunished. 

A few hours later, and we crossed the Murad River, here about 
sixty yards wide, the water being up to our horses' shoulders, and, 
after an eight hours' march, halted in a Yezeed village palled Dotah. 

The Caimacan in this place was not very hospitably inclined. In- 
stead of offering me a room in his own house, as had been the cus- 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 227 

torn of the governors at our previous halting-places, he ordered an 
old Yezeed former to provide us with accommodation for the night. 

The ancient devil-worshiper was anything but pleased at having 
to find shelter for my servants and self, He had only two rooms, 
and one of the traveling priests or sheiks of his community was 
with him as a visitor. The sheik would w r ant a room to himself, 
and there would be only the stable left for the old man, his family, 
our horses, and selves. 



CHAPTER LXI. 

My landlord was not a sweet creature to look upon. The sheik 
who was his guest had a still more forbidding countenance; the 
latter gentleman, with his deep-set eyes, high, narrow forehead, 
coming almost to a point where it reached his skull, and long cocka- 
too-like nose, having a very demoniacal appearance. My host had 
two daughters, who had been deputed to wait upon the sheik; 
They followed him about like spaniels, and vied with each other in 
obeying his commands. 

1 was seated beside the fireplace when the distinguished individ- 
ual entered the room. He evidently expected that 1 was about to 
arise to receive him in a w ay becoming to his dignity, and made a 
sign as if to ask me not to move. 1 paid no attention to this gest- 
ure, but motioned to him to sit by the fire. This he did, and squat- 
ting opposite me, unbared a pair of long, shining arms, and began to 
pass them through the flames, as if he were caressing the fiery ele- 
ment. 

" Sou like heat!" 1 remarked, by way of commencing a conver- 
sation. 

The man slowly raised his eyes, which glittered in his head and 
flashed like the embers on the hearth. 

"Heat is good, Effendi. Fire gives warmth — vsiihout warmth 
we should die. Fire gives life, and destroys it. 1 love tbe flames. 3 ' 

Mohammed came close to the fire and stooped aown. The sheik's 
eyes sparkled brighter than before; he said something. My servant 
laughed, but moved away from the hearth. 

" What did he say?" 1 inquired. 

" He was afraid, Effendi, that t was about to spit in the fire. They 

think that this is a great insult to the " Here Mohammed 

stopped; he did not like to utter the words " Shaitan " (devil). The 
sheik, who appeared much frightened at the beginning of the sen- 
tence, and had left off passing his arms through the flames, com- 
menced repeating that operation. 

" Do you believe in Allah?" I remarked. 

" Allah is good," was the reply. " Allah can do no harm." 

My host now came up, and, bowing before the sheik, said some- 
thing. The latter, placing his hand into his sash, produced two clay 
balls, which he gave to the proprietor — the latter receiving them 
with an air of the greatest satisfaction. 

These balls had been manufactured with clay taken from the tomb 
of Sheik Adi— a saint who is highly reverenced by the Vezeeds— the 
traveling sheiks make a certain sum of money by selling them to the 

*JeVOte$»,«sa<j foyj « f . ,; prff) -,r I ] 



228 Otf HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIJS T OR. 

" Your visit has brought happiness to my daughters and myself," 
observed the proprietor. 

The sheik did not reply immediately, but presently remarked: 

M Tour cows shall not die; no robbers shall enter your doors; ill- 
ness shall not attack your family." 

Mohammed approached. 

"I too should like a ball/' he remarked. "It might keep off 
my rheumatism. The Effendi's plasters do good, but 1hey hurt. 
The ball would not cause me any pain. Give me one;" and my serv- 
ant held out his hand to the sheik. 

" Go away!" said the latter, in rather strong tones. " Go to your 
own saints, and let them cure you." 

Then, rising, the man left the room, closely followed bv the two 
daughters of the proprietor. 

These girls were neither of them good-looking, and dirty to an ex- 
tent which no man who has not been in the East could imagine. 

It is said that there are pretty women amidst the daughters of the 
worshipers of the devil; my personal observations do not lead me 
to place any credence in this statement. 

1 inquired of the proprietor if the shiek had brought the Melek 
Taoos (King Peacock) with him. This is a bird manufactured of 
bronze, which is occasionally carried about by the leading men 
amidst the Yezeeds, and which all devil -worshipers are bound to 
reverence. 

"No," replied my host; "our guest is not a Cawal (a sort of 
priest). Who told you about the Melek Taoos?" 

" The Tuiks, and, besides, I have read about it, and seen a picture 
of the bird in a book written by a Frank." 

" What a marvel," said the host; " very few of our sheiks can 
read, much less write." 

" Do you ever pray?" 1 inquired. 

" Pray? like the Mohammedans?" 

"Yes." 

" No, what is the use? You Christians do not pray like the Mo- 
hammedans," continued the old man. 

" No; but we pray to the Foundei of our faith." 

" Everything is fixed," observed the Yezeed; " then what is the 
good of praying? You can not force Destiny to change her mind." 

" Then what is the good of the balls you have just received? for 
if 3'our cows are destined to die, they will die. " 

My host did not show any wish to continue this conversation, and 
he presently remarked: 

" We are talking about hidden things; no good will come of it." 

" But if you have got the balls of clay," said Mohammed, joining 
in the conversation, " they ought to keep you from any harm." 

" Who knows?" said th.e proprietor; and, rising from the ground, 
he lay down in a further corner of the room, next some sheep, and 
was soon lost to consciousness. 

Mr. Layard, who lived some time amongst the Yezeeds remarked 
about these strange people: 

" They recognize one Supreme Being; but, as far as 1 could learn, 
they do not offer up any direct prayer or sacrifice to him. My ques- 



O^T HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI^OR. 



229 



tions on this subject were evaded, and every topic was shunned con- 
nected with the attributes and existence of the Deity. 

The name of the devil is never mentioned, and any allusion to 
it by others so vexes and irritates them that it is said that they have 
put to death persons who have wantonly outraged their feelings by 
its use. 

" So far is their dread of offending the evil spirit carried that they 
carefully avoid every expression which may resemble in sound the 
name of Satan, or the Arabic word for 'accursed.' When they 
speak of the devil, they do so with reverence as Melek-el, the mighty 
angel. The Yezeeds believe Satan to be the chief of the angelic host 
now suffering punishment for his rebellion against the Divine will, 
but still powerful, and to be restored hereafter to his high estate in 
the celestial hierarchy. He must be conciliated and reverenced, they 
say, for as he now has the means of doing evil to mankind, so will 
he hereafter have the power of rewarding "them. Next to Satan, but 
inferior to him in might and wisdom, are seven archangels who 
exercise a great influence over the world; they are Gabriel, Michail, 
Raphail, Azrail, Dedrail, Azrapheel, and Shemkeel. Christ, ac- 
cording to the Yezeeds, was also a great angel who had taken the 
form of man. He did not die on the cross s but ascended to 
heaven." 



CHAPTER LXll. 

TVe were once more in winter, deep snow lay along our path. 
There weie several Yezeed villages by the track, which began to rise 
abruptly by the side of the River Murad, and was here and there cut 
out of the solid rock. 

In many places waterfalls dashed over the path, and we were 
literally riding beneath a canopy of water, which fell several hun- 
dred feet over precipices into the river below. At others the torrent 
dashed across the track itself. "We had to advance with the greatest 
caution to avoid being swept down the abyss. - • 

1 now crossed the Melaskert River. Here our guide had a narrow 
escape of being carried away by the torrent. Presently we arrived 
at Tckekane, an Armenian village, about eight miles distant from 
the town of Toprak Kale. 

1 had been suffering great pain during the last two marches, and, 
on dismounting from my horse, should have fallen to the ground if 
it had not been for Mohammed. 

The latter helped me to enter the house of my host, an Armenian 
peasant. Staggering up to the hearth, 1 threw myself down beside 
the fire. My legs seemed to have lost all their strenglh; 1 had great 
pain in my head and back. My pulse was beating very rapidly. 
It intermitted. 

Thinking that it was an attack of fever, 1 desired Radford to-give 
me the medicine chest, and after taking ten grains of quinine, tried 
to sleep. This, however, was impossible— the insects in the house 
would have prevented slumber, even if the fever had not done so. 

The night passed away. In the morning 1 found myself so weak 
that 1 could barely raise my head from the pillow. 



230 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



k " There is a doctor at Toprak Kale," observed my Armenian 
liost. " He is a Frank: why not send for him?" 

I did so; but the medical man did not arrive. Hay all that day 
racked by pain, and half devoured by insects. 

In the morning 1 overheard the following conversation between 
Mohammed and the proprietor : 

" There are many fleas; my Effendi cannot sleep." 

"It is true," replied the Armenian; " but there are by no means 
so many here as in a Kurd village a few miles distant. The Kurds 
have been obliged to abandon their houses in consequence of these 
insects. They have had to live in tents for several months past." 

Another night passed without my obtaining any slumber. In the 
morning I had a visit from the doctor, a Hungarian who was at- 
tached to a regiment at Toprak Kale. 

The news of the arrival of the son of iEs2ulapius was soon spread 
through the village. My bed-chamber, the stable, in which there 
were three cows, was speedily thronged by as many excited inhabi- 
tants as could find standing-room. 

The doctor was a young man; he had not been long in Asia Minor, 
and could only speak a few words of Turkish. But he wore a uni- 
form and was accompanied byaZaptieh. This was sufficient at once 
to strike awe into the Armenian villagers." 

" Are you in pain?" said the doctor, in German. 

' 1 Yes ' ' 

" Where?" 

" Behind the shoulders and in the side." 
" 1 will examine you." 

Producing a stethoscope, he placed one end of it upon my chest, 
and the other to his ear. This proceeding gave rise to great aston- 
ishment amongst the assembled visitors, who eagerly pressed for- 
ward to witness the operation. 

" Donner wetter!" said the indignant physician, in German. 

Haide, go away!" This last word in Turkish to the Armenians, 
who, f rightened at the sonorous sounds of the " Donner wetter," had 
already withdrawn for a few steps. 

There were also some Turkish peasants in the room. They had 
made friends with Mohammed. He had placed them behind two 
cows in a corner, so that they might have a good view of the 
doctor. 

" What is he doing to the Eflendi?" inquired one of them to Mo- 
hammed. 

" He is looking into his body," observed another. 

Mohammed himself now craned out his neck in my direction. 

" Effendi! is he looking into your stomach?" 

"No; he is listening to the beats of my heart." 

f< How clever these Franks are!" said one of the Turks. " They 
do not even take the trouble to look; they are quite satisfied by 
listening. 1 wish the hakim would put the instrument on my chest; 
It will do me good," he continued. 

'* Perhaps he would if we asked him," added the other. 

"Silence!" said Mohammed. " The doctor is saying some- 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 231 

The face of the medical gentleman became a little grave after he 
had sounded me. This gave great satisfaction to the audience. 

" See how solemn he looks!" remarked one of the by-standers; 
" the E9endi is going to die." 

" What is the "matter with me?" 1 inquired. 

" Rheumatic fever; and youi heart is out of order," said the doc- 
tor. V You must lie quiet for several days, and 1 will send you some 
medicine. The battalion probably marches to-morrow," he con- 
tinued, " and so 1 fear 1 cannot come here again." 

Pocketing his fee, the medical gentleman, mounted his horse, and 
rode off with the Zaptieh. 

1 had eaten nothing for two days, and my mouth was parched. 
Mohammed, seeing this, brought me some pressed fruit— a sort of 
wild cranberry, which the natives dry, and then, if any one has a 
tever, they soak the fruit in water and given it him to drink. The 
pressed berries are very nasty to look at. They much resemble 
tezek. For a moment 1 thought that Mohammed was giving me a 
piece of that fuel by way of a febrifuge. On tasting the beverage 1 
found that the flavor was very agreeable. It was acid, and, in Mo- 
hammed's opinion, was a most valuable remedy for fever. 

The day wore on. In the evening the cows inside my bedroom 
were joined by three buffaloes. 

The air in the room became fouler and more dense. It was snow- 
ing outside, and the proprietor had covered the hole, which took the 
place of a chimney, with a large stone. 1 lay awake for the greater 
part of the night, every now and then drinking copious draughts of 
the pressed fruit dissolved in water. Nature at last succumbed. 1 had 
not slept for several nights. The figures of the cows, and buffaloes 
became smaller; they gradually disappeared. The light given out 
ty a piece of cotton steeped in some melted fat, and placed in an 
iron tripod, became more flickering; the sounds of my followers' 
snoring seemed to fade away. 1 shut my eyes and fell asleep. 

I was awakened late the following afternoon by something cold 
and clammy against my hand. On looking up, 1 found it was one 
of the cows. My arm was stretched out by her trough. The animal 
was licking my fingers with her tongue. 

" I was afraid that she would awake you, sir," remarked my serv- 
ant Radford, coming to my side. V 1 wished to drive her away, 
but was afraid of disturbing you." 



CHAPTER LX1I1. 

The rest had done me good. Mohammed's febrifuge seemed to 
agree. Later on, the doctor's medicine arrived. 1 took a dose, and 
felt myself much worse in consequence. I determined to stick to 
the native remedy. 

Day after day passed by. At last 1 was able to raise myself a 
little from the floor; my appetite gradually returned; and one fine 
morning I determined to make an attempt to reach Kars. My serv- 
ants lifted me on my horse: once on his back, I made them strap me 
to the high pommel in front of the saddle— a Turkish one. 

The fresh air did wonders, and, though very weak, 1 managed to 



232 



02s HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



reach Zedhane, a village which we had stopped at on our way to 
Bayazid, and which lay on the route between Van and Kars. 

We rode to Daha, passing byKurdali, a small village, seven miles 
irom Zedhane, and with some strong positions, from a military 
point of view, in the neighborhood. The track was very different 
to what it had been a few weeks previous. There was little snow, 
and we were able to reach Daha in five hours. Our course was 
almost due north, and ran through a broad mountain pass to Haasan 
Bek, a Kurd hamlet, and from there to Bash, an Aimenian village 
with a hundred khans. Here a battalion was quartered. The men 
had fought at Alexinatz, and, according to their lieutenant-colonel, 
an officer whose acquaintance i had made at Erzeroum, they were 
eager to cross bayonets again with the Russians. 

"We left Bash, and, after two hours' march, crossed the Araxes on 
a rickety wooden bridge. It had been made by an enterprising Cir- 
cassian. There is a ford several miles down the stream, but the 
Circassian had thought that, if he were to make this bridge, a great 
many passengers would prefer taking thje short cut, and would 
gladly pay a few piastres for the privilege of crossing the structure. 

We came to the village of Karakroot, in which the Circassian 
lived. The sheik, a fine-looking man, informed us that here there 
were only twenty-five houses, but there were 1,005 houses which 
belonged to people of his nation in the neighborhood. In the event 
of war, the inhabitants of this district could muster 2,000 horsemen. 
The houses belonging to these Circassians were far cleaner than any 
which 1 had seen in the Kurdish or Armenian villages. They were 
all built of wood, with wooden floors. A small inclosure, made of 
sharp-pointed stakes, surrounded each of the dwellings. There were 
quantities of buffaloes, cows, and sheep in some adjacent fields, 
and the granaries were said to be well supplied with corn and barley. 

The inhabitants were smart-looking fellows, and all of them 
dressed in, their national attire— in tight-fitting sheepskin coats, with 
tlie wool worn inside, and buckled round their waists by a narrow 
leathern strap, studded with buttons; broad leather trousers, stuffed 
into high boots covered their legs, and small Astrakhan caps their 

For arms, the men carried long daggers in their waist-belts— many 
of the hilts being beautifully worked in silver. 

There were several women and girls in the village. They did not 
conceal themselves, as is the custom of the Armenian or Turkish 
women. We had the opportunity of looking at their faces. 1 was 
under the impression that the Circassian girls were very fair. This 
is not the case; they more resemble the Spanish belles, and have a 
clear olive complexion, through which you can discern the blue 
veins. One girl was very good-looking. She could not have been 
more than sixteen, and sat the horse on which she was mounted with 
more grace and ease than any of her male companions. 

The chief features in all these women are their eyes and teeth. 
The former are very large, and the latter small, well-shaped and 
white as pearls. Tooth powder is unknown in this district. How 
they preserve their teeth so perfectly is to a European an enigma. 

You see men of from sixty to seventy years of age who have never 
lost a tooth, each one is as white as the purest ivory. The Circas- 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



233 



sians have another advantage, from a European point of view, over 
the K urds. They do not sleep in their cow hovels. The stables are 
separated from ilie apartments reserved for the family. 

We rode by several more Circassian villages, and after passing 
Gedjerharman, which is a nine hours' march from Bash, came to a 
district inhabited by Turks and Armenians. The latter complained 
of their war-Jike neighbors, the Circassians, and declared that a 
Turk had been killed the previous evening, in a quarrel with one of 
the mountaineers. All this part of the track was in good order. 
Seven hours after leaving Gedjerharman, we entered the plain 
around Kars. In rear of the town, which is built in the form of a 
sickle or half -moon, are some high mountains. A series of detached 
forts, occupying commanding positions, defends the approaches to 
the citadel. This last stands in the north-west angle of the town. 

Seven battalions of infantry were drilling in the plain. They pre- 
sented a more martial appearance than any of the troops which ! had 
previously seen in Asia Minor. 

The streets of Kars were in a filthy state. Every house was 
crammed with soldiers. The whole sewerage of the population had 
been thrown in front of the buildings. Fortunately, the weather 
was cold. A very disagreeable smell could be perceived, as our 
horses stirred up the refuse beneath their hoofs. 

We halted at the house of the civil governor. He had been kind 
enough to place a room at my disposal. The following morning ]. 
rode out to visit the fortifications. The river Kars Tchai runs 
through the town, and is crossed by three stone bridges, each about 
forty yards wide. The Persians in a war with the Turks had tried 
to turn this river, so as to cut oft the water from the garrison, but 
failed in the attempt. 1 first went to Mount Kara Dagh, which is 
about 1,400 yards from the town, and commands the road to the Rus- 
sian f ortress at Alexandropol or Gumri. A small barracks had been 
erected for half a battalion of infantry; some earthworks had been 
thrown up around the position, which was defended by twelve 
Krupp guns. The site for the powder magazine had not been 
judiciously selected; but, as it is possible that the war may not be 
over ere this work is published, the reader will pardon me if 1 do 
not mention its exact situation. 

On the plain below, 600 yards from the Kara Dagh, and 2,000 
yards from the town, was a small redoubt called the Hafeez Pasha 
Tabia; here there were nine guns, the battery facing the south. 
Fifteen hundred yards south-west of this point, and 8,000 from the 
town, stood the Kanli Tabia, an important redoubt, in very good 
repair, and with sixteen guns in position. The only other defensive 
works in the plain consisted of a small redoubt called the Sowaree 
Tabia, in which were two guns. No connecting lines had been 
made to join the different redoubts; the ground between them was 
entirely unprotected. On my mentioning this to an engineer officer 
who accompanied me, he remarked that it was winter, and the ground 
was hard; when the weather became milder, the troops would com- 
mence digging trenches and forming breastworks. 

On the northwest of the citadel, and in a commanding position, 
stood the Veil Pasha Tabia with fourteen guns; and to the right of 
this battery, and slightly in advance of it, some earth-works had 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIIfOR. 



been thrown up at the suggestion of Bloom Pasha, a German officer; 
here there were rive guns. The river separates these works from the 
Kara Kalpak Tabia, a strong position adjoining the Kara Dagh, 
and defended by ten guns. 

In the citadel known as the Itch Kale, and which is slightly in 
rear of Bloom Pasha Tabia, and on the opposite side of the river, 
there were twelve guns. To the left of Veli Pasha Tabia was a 
battery of thirteen guns, known as the Tchim Tabia. Closely ad- 
joining this battery, but more to tte west, 1 saw the Tamar Tabia 
with twenty-thiee guns; here there was a barrack for one battalion. 
Five hundred yards in rear of the Tamar Tabia stood the Diktipe 
Tabia with thirteen guns; and about the same distance behind 
33iktipe, covering the northern slopes, the Tachmach Tabia with 
eighteen guns. On the east of Bloom Pacha Tabia there was a 
work with four guns, known as Inglis Tabia; and slightly in advance 
ot this battery Wlliam Pasha Tabia with twelve guns. This made 
up all the def enses on the north side of Kars. Most of these redoubts 
had been very much neglected; however, the town was better forti- 
fied on the northern side than from the south. Every facility was 
afforded to me for viewing the works in question, and I was per- 
mitted to take the angle between the different positions, beside being 
shown the exact bearings of all the powder-magazines. 



CHAPTER LX1V. 

There were at the time of my visit to Kars about 20,000 troops 
quartered in and about the town; but large re-enforcements could be 
sent f rom Erzerouni should occasion arise for their services. Later 
in the day, Dr. Lanzoni, of the Quarantine, called upon me; he is 
an Italian, and in the International Service. On my alluding to 
the state of the streets in Kars, he remarked that he had written 
twice to the authorities at Constantinople, but that no notice had 
been taken of his letters. ■* We shall have an outbreak of typhus 
or plague in the summer," continued the doctor. ** The mortality 
will be very great, if we are besieged before the filth is cleared 
away." 

The civil governor entered the room. He joined in the conversa- 
tion. 

" It is the fault of the military Pasha," he observed. " The 
soldiers have made this mess in the streets, and the military Pasha 
thinks that the civilians in the town ought to clear it up. 1 have 
told him that this work ought to be done by the troops, but he says 
that the soldiers are the Padishah's servants, and that their duty is 
to right, and not to be scavengers." 

" What have you done about the matter?'' 1 inquired. 

" We have written to Constantinople," replied the governor. 

" How long does it take for a letter to go there?" 

" About three weeks." 

"Yes," said the doctor, " three weeks to go, and three weeks to 
return, in all six weeks, without considering the delay there will be 
in answering the communication. We may have the cholera here 
long before that time." 



02s". HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 235 

" If God -wills it, there will be no cholera?" said the Pasha. 
1 interrupted him, " You are strengthening your garrison?'' 
" Yes." 

" You will repair the fortifications?" 
" Yes." 

" You are supplying the troops with Martini-Peabody rifles at a 
great expense to your government?" 

" Yes." " Well," I continued, " why are you doing this?" 

M On account of the Russians," said the Pasha; " but why do you 
ask me these questions?" 

" Because if God wills it, the Russians will not come here, and if 
He has decreed that Kars is to fall, nothing that you can do will 
prevent that event, taking; place." 

" Then you think that armies are useless?" said the Pasha. 

" No, but you would seem to hold that opinion, for you do not 
take the trouble to have the streets cleared, and say, if God wills it 
so, that there will be no epidemic." 

" Allah is all-powerful. He knows everything that has happened 
and that will happen," said the governor, devoutly. " We are all 
dust in His sight. If we have the cholera in Kars, it will be the 
military Pasha's fault." 

Shortly afterward my visitor left the room. 

" 1 am very glad you spoke to him as you did," said the doctor, 
" Our hospitals are full of men suffering from typhoid fever; more 
than 10 per cent, of the poor fellows do not recover. This is a case 
in which the European powers ought to interfere," continued the 
speaker, "lama quarantine officer, and am paid by the Interna- 
tional Commission. It is my duty to prevent the cholera or any 
other infectious disease being biought from the East, but these 
Turks are doing their best to breed a plague in the heart of their 
principal fortification. Kars is only thirty miles from Guniri," he 
added, " if this place were to fall, the whole of Asia Minor would 
follow." 

" Do the Armenians in this town like the Russians?" 1 now in- 
quired. 

"Not at all," said the doctor. "Only seven months ago the 
Grand Duke Michael visited Gumri, the Russian frontier fortress. 
When he was there he inspected the Armenian schools, and made a 
speech to the girls in one of these institutions. After a few remarks 
about the progress they were making, the Grand Duke concluded his 
discourse by addressing their mothers in these words: ' Rappelez- 
vous bien que le lait avec lequel vous nourrissez vos enf ants doit etre 
le lait Russe.' The Armenians are immensely vain of their nation- 
ality. This speech of the Grand Duke incensed them very much 
against him. The Russian prince made himself still more unpopular 
a few days later/' continued the doctor. " In the course of a visit 
to the master of one of the Armenian schools, he observed some pict- 
ures in the schoolroom, - What pictures are these?' he inquired. 
\ They are likenesses of some of the former kings of Armenia, ' re- 
plied the schoolmaster. \ You have no right to'have any portraits 
here save those of the Tzar and of the members of the Imperial fam- 
ily,' said the grand duke, ' you shall go to prison.' " 

An Armenian gentleman entered the room; he corroborated every- 



236 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



thing that the doctor had said, and presently remarked that many- 
years ago the Emperor Nicholas had given the Patriarch Mateos a 
document, in which the Tzar granted lull religious liberty to all 
Armenians in Russia. w Our patriarch kept this deed always on his 
persoD," continued the speaker. " One day he died very suddenly, 
and under rather suspicious circumstances. His successor searched 
eveiywhere tor the document, but could not find it. At length he 
discovered a copy; he then wrote to the authorities in Tiflis, and 
asked for a tiesh paper. His request was refused, and at the same 
time he was informed that no such religious liberty had ever been 
granted to the Armenians." 

4 ' Is it true that the Russian authorities do not permit the Moham- 
medans to leave the Tzar's dominion?" 1 now inquired. 

"les/'said the doctor, "a very few months ago a case dame 
under my own observation. Some Mohammedans wished to leave- 
Russia and escape to Turkey; as they were passing the border-line, 
a band of Cossacks fired upon them. They continued their flight, 
but three children had been wounded and were afterward treated in 
Ihe hospital at Kars." 

As 1 copy the above lines from my note-book, 1 can not help 
thinking of some few clergymen of the Church of England, who, 
secretly hankering after the superstitions attached to the Greek faith, 
put themselves forward as champions of Holy Russia. But we 
need not be surprised. Those people who are so deadened to a sense 
of right and wrong as to imagine that they are doing God service by 
instilling into the ears of our wives and children sentences from the 
foul pamphlet entitled "The Priest of Absolution," can readily 
bring themselves to believe that killing pregnant women,* and flog- 
ging Christian women and children,! to make them change their 
religion, is justifiable on the part of the Russian government. 
Priests like these would gladly re-establish the Inquisition in our 
midst. They could defend the massacres of St. Bartholomew, if the 
victims had been Mohammedans; and on the seventh day of the 
week they stand up in their pulpits and preach the doctrine of peace 
by advocating the extermination of the Turks. 

The above-mentioned way of treating Mohammedan little children 
is no novelty on the part of the Tzar's soldiery. Colonel Lake, in 
his work, the F - Defense of Kars," remarks that, " brought up as 
savages from their infancy, some of these Cossacks will not scruple 
to commit the most barbarous actions. As an instance of this, on 
one occasion, during the earlier period of the blockade, a party of 
them made a dash at a small village by the river-side called Karaba 
Kilissa, and though the inhabitants offered not the slightest opposi- 
tion to them, they beat a little boy, twelve years of age7 very cruelly 
with their whips, and finally shut him — the ball passing through his 
thigh and breaking the bone. . It was heart-rending to see the poor 
old mother weeping over her dying child. He was packed up in an 
araba, or country cart, and sent down to the hospital, where he was 
attended by Dr. Sandwith. Every possible care was taken of the 
little sufferer, but he died under the amputation of the shattered 
limb." 



* See Appendix IX. 



t See Appendix f. 



CW HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MISTOR. 237 



We were told a tew months ago by the Right Hon. Robert Lowe, 
M.P., that Russia was the father of the fatherless; judging from the 
way she has treated these Mohammedan children, it would not put 
her to much expense to provide for a numerous family. 

It was a goodly spectacle this Holy Russia putting herself forward 
last autumn as the champion of the Bulgarians, after she had done 
her best to foment* the disturbances which led to the massacres in 
their country. It may be refreshing to some of the believers in 
Muscovite -philanthropy if 1 recall to their recollection what took 
place verj T recently in Central Asia. 

" Kill the Turcomans! kill them alll" was General Kaufimann's 
order during the Ehivan campaign. 

"I suppose you mean in the Circassian style, " was the dry re- 
mark of an old colonel, well acquainted with the Russian manner 
of making war upon the Circassians. 

" \ e&; kill them all! Spare neither age nor sex! Let none es 
cape!" 

Circassianf pregnant women cut to pieces!— does this go for noth- 
ing in the eyes of those gentlemen who called out for vengeance on 
the Circassians in Bulgaria? Circassian children butchered by Rus- 
sian soldiery! — is this nothing to two clergymen of the Church of 
England, who denounced in the strongest language an imaginary 
atrocity of the Turks? 

Are these things nothing to the Right Hon. W. G-ladstone, M.P., 
Who, writing last autumn about a friendly power, remarked, 
" What seems now to be certain in this sense (besides the miserable 
daily misgovernment, which, however, dwindles by the side of the 
Bulgarian horrors) are the wholesale massacres — 

' Murder most foul, as in the best it is ; 
But this most foul, strange, and unnatural !'£ 

the elaborate and refined cruelty— the only refinement of which 
Turkey boasts!— the utter disregard of sex and age — the abominable 
and bestial lust— and the entire and violent lawlessness which still 
stalks over the land." 

Two wrongs do not make a right. This is an old saying and a 
true one. The atrocities committed bv the Russians in the Caucasus 
are no excuse tor those, perpetrated by the Circassians in Bulgaria; 
but the Circassians are Mohammedans; the Muscovites profess the 
doctrines of Christ. Why was the author of the Bulgarian horrors 
silent when his own officials reported the crimes of the Russian sol- 
diery? We have been told that Russia is the torch-bearer of civiliza- 
tion, and our military attache at St. Petersburg, Captain and Lt.-Col. 
Weilesley, has stated that he believes the Muscovite soldiers are in- 
capable of the atrocities laid to their charge. Mr. Gladstone has 
quoted this officer as an authority. 

It may be that our military attache is ignorant of what took place 
during the Crimean war. He was a child in petticoats at the time. 
But Mr. Gladstone can not. assign extreme youth in his own case as 

* See Appendix IV., Russian Agents and the Massacres in Bulgaria, 
t See Appendix VII., The Schoolmasters in Massacre. 
$ Hamlet, i. 5. 



238 OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MIKOR. 



an excuse for bad memory. He was a member of the Cabinet, and, 
as such, had access to all official dispatches. Let me ask him if he 
can remember the circumstances under which many ot our officers 
and soldiers met their death at the battle of Inkerman, and when 
they were lying helpless on the field? Does he know how Captain 
the Hon. Henry Neville, of the 3d Battalion of Grenadier Guards, 
was butchered? and how Captain Sir Robert Newman, Bart., shared 
the same fate? Does he know how poor Disbrowe of the Coldstreams 
was tortured? Possibly all these things have escaped from his mem- 
ory, but the Cabinet to which he belonged did not forget them at the 

A Court of Inquiry* was held in the Crimea. It investigated the 
accusations made against the Russian troops. The proceedings of 
this Court of Inquiry, accompanied by a dispatch, were forwarded 
by Lord Raglan to the authorities at home. In these papers will be 
found the names of many British officers and privates who were 
proved to have been brutally massacred— by the Russian soldiers — 
when imploring mercy, and helpless, owiDg to their wounds. Such 
horror was created in the minds of some ot the Cabinet, that one of 
its members, the War Minister, the late Duke of Newcastle, alluded 
to the matter on the 12th of December, 1854, in the House of Lords 
as follows. 1 give his own words : 

" The enemy which our men met were not content with the legit- 
imate use ot their weapons, but had the BARBARITY, THE 
ATROCIOUS "VILLAINY. 1 will call it, TO MURDER IN COLD 
BLOOD TBE WOUNDED SOLDIERS AS THEY LAY 
HELPLESS ON THE FIELD ; AND not the ignorant serfs alone 
did that, but MEN HOLDING THE POSITION OF OFFICERS. 
Our men have had to fight the savage and uncivilized Kaffirs, but 
in no instance have THEY EXPERIENCED SUCH BARBAR- 
ISM AS WITH THE RUSSIAN SOLDIERS! ! f P 

A number of families in Great Britain were in mourning after 
Inkerman. Many old fathers and mothers thought that their sons 
had been killed in fair fight. They have been deceived. The pro- 
ceedings of the Court of Inquiry were in the War Office this sum- 
mer. 1 challenge the author of the Bulgarian horrors to ask the 
Government to lay these papers, with Lord Raglan's and Marshal 
Canrobert's dispatches relating to them, on the "table of the House 
of Commons. It is to be hoped that he will do so. The British 
people would then be able to judge for itself wnat sort of men the 
Russians are, and how thoroughly Russia merits the terms — The 
Torch-bearer of Civilization and the Protector of the Unprotected — 
which have been applied to her by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone 
and the Right Hon. Robert Lowe. 



CHAPTER LXV. 
1 started early the following morning en route for Ardahan, a 
Turkish fortress about forty-two miles from Kars. The road was 
good for the first three hours, but then became very bad. We rode 

* The first witness examined at this Court of Inquiry was Sir Charles Rus- 
sell; Bart., M.P., for Westminster 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



239 



over some mountains covered with deep snow, and halted for tlie 
night in a small village called Molla Eassan, inhabited by Kurds. 
A. Turkish major had recently inhabited tne room assigned 1o us, 
He had intended remaining there for some time; but the insects 
proving too much for him, he had taken up his abode in a Turkish 
village near Kars. 

" These Turks have thin skins," said an old Kurd, my host, as he 
told me the story; " only thinK of their being frightened by a few 
fleas. You Inglis are much braver people." 

" My Effendi is very particular about these matteis," remarked 
Mohammed; " if he is bitten, there will be no baksheesh." 

The Kurd's face lengthened, 
i have a cart," he presently observed; "it is clean, it has been 
standing in the cold. The fleas are frozen. 1 will drag the cart 
into the road and the Frank can sleep in it. " 

This was done, and 1 managed, to secure a few hours' rest, a very 
rare occurrence in a Kurdish village. The track was very bad be- 
tween Molla Hassan and Ardahan; after marching for six hours and 
a half, we reached the latter place, which was at that time garrison- 
ed by 12,000 soldiers. 

Ardahan 'is surrounded on the north, south and east by mount- 
ains—toward the west there are some heights about five miles dis- 
tant from the town. The site is a bad one for defensive purposes. 
The roads which lead from the Russian frontier stations, Akellaki 
and Akiska, present a series of commanding positions which domi- 
nate the Turkish lines. A little river winds through a valley on the 
west front of Ardahan, and finally traverses the town. The stream 
is crossed by two wooden bridges without parapets. 

An attempt was being made to fortify Ardahan on its western side 
by throwing up some earthworks only eight hundred yards distant 
from the houses. No guns had been placed in these batteries. 

There were thirteen pieces in a fort on the hill called Manusa, 
about 3,000 yards to the north of Ardahan, and in another position 
south of the town on the Kars road. Here there were four small 
earthworks, called Ahali, Sangher, Gaze, and Kaptamele, mounting 
in all twenty-four guns. Three hundred yards to the east there 
was one more earthwork, called Kaiabashe, containing eighteen guns 
Fort Manusa, the strongest point in the defenses of the town, is 
commanded by a height called Ramazan. The Turks had not 
thought of occupying This last position; although should an enemy 
once succeed in placing some guns on the Ramazan height, Arda- 
han must eventually be taken. 

On my pointing this out to an engineer officer who accompanied 
me, he acknowledged the truth of the remark, at the same time ob- 
serving that, Inshallah, when the winter was over, would fortify 
the height in question. 

Procrastination in military matters is the great defect on the part 
of the Turkish authorities. But it ill becomes an Englishman to 
blame them. Perhaps no country is more negligent about these ob 
jects than our own. 

" The Russians will not come, Inshallah," remarks the Moham- 
medan, and he sits down and lights his pipe. 

" It is extremely unlikely that Germany willinvade Great Britain, 



240 ON HOKSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MI^OP 



or that India will ever be attacked," says one Englishman. " It is 
highly improbable that Russia will take Constantinople or the high- 
lands in Armenia," remarked another, " when that moment arrives 
it will be time enough to go to war. We can then talk about a con- 
scription for our army. We have more money than any other na- 
tion, and should be stronger at the end of a campaign than at the 
beginning." People who make use of these arguments, forget that 
France was a very rich country; but that with all her money and 
her hastily levied troops, she was unable to withstand the disciplined 
armies of Moltke. 

The military governor was despondent as to his power of defend- 
ing Ardahan. If he could have had his own way, he would have 
selected another position nearer the Russian frontier. It was now too 
late to do this, and the more particularly as the Pasha believed that 
hostilities would break out immediately. He had no cavalry at his 
disposal to bring him information about what was going on near the 
border. However, 2,000 Circassian horsemen were shortly expected, 
and wooden sheds were being built for them close to the Kaiabashe 
earthworks. A colonel of artillery called upon me: he had been 
educated at Woolwich. He had not been in England for more than 
twenty years, but he spoke English remarkably well. On my ob- 
serving that 1 had heard that the Russians had lately withdrawn 
their troops from Erivan, he remarked that the Muscovite general 
had probably done so through fear lest the Turks should advance 
upon Tiflis from Batoum. 

" What would be the result if the Russians were to take Batoum?" 
1 inquired. 

H They might remain there. It would be very difficult for them 
to advance inland," was the reply. " There are no roads. The 
Russians might take Van," he continued; " but even if they were 
to do so, they would find it very difficult to advance upon Erzeroum 
m Moiisch. It would be almost impossible for them to transport 
their artillery over the Ala Dagh mountains." 

''Would the Kurds help the Russians?" 

" The Kurds would probably join the strongest side. 1 have been 
a great deal in the mountains, and know the Kurds well. There are 
Freemasons amongst them," added the colonel. " Their Freema- 
sonry dates back from the time of the ancient Assyrians." 

I now learned that it would be better tor me to sell my horses in 
Ardahan, than to take them to Batoum. The shortest route to the 
last-named town was to go to Livana by road, and then down the 
Tschoroch river, to the seaport in question. We could hire five 
horses so far as Livana; if we were to take our own animals there, 
we should not be able to dispose of them. Calling Mohammed, 1 
desired him to go to the market and inform any people who might 
wish to buy horses, that there were lour for sale. 

" Five, Effendi," said Mohammed; " I shall sell mine too. When 
we reach Batoum the Effendi will go to Stamboul; but I must join 
my battalion. That is, unless the Effendi will take me with him." 

" Impossible, Mohammed," 1 replied, *.* I shall only remain for 
twenty-four hours in Constantinople, and from there go to my own 
country. You would be taken up as a deseiter atterl had gone and 
perhaps shot. What would your wile say?" 



OST HOKSEBACK THKOUGH ASIA MIXOK. 241' 

" 1 could get a fresh wife at Stamboul." 
"'Go and sell the horses!" 

A tear fell down Mohammed's cheek. He sighed deeply and left 
the room. 

Presently Radford came to me : 4t 
" Bless my heart, sir, if that 'ere Mohammed ain't a crying; he 
keeps on saying Stamboul, and wants to go there. He says, ' eta la 
Iranga, meat cooked in the European style, is nice; and that he 
loves my cookery!' the fact is, sir, he don't want to go to his regi- 
ment." 

A sound in the court-yard attracted my attention; 1 went to the 
window. Mohammed was outside with the five horses; several 
Turks and Circassians were looking at them. The animals had very 
littie flesh on their bones; but they were in much better condition for 
work than on the day we left Constantinople. Mohammed's horse 
was in a wretched state; he was nearly blind, from the effects of the 
snow. In addition to this, he walked lame. 

" He is a brute," observed an old Turk: " Take him away, Mo- 
hammed; kill him for his skin, make leather of it." 

'* His grandfather was a magnificent animal," replied Moham- 
med, indignantly. "His sire was the admiration of the people in 
Tohat. He himself is thin, he will soon get fat again. Anyhow,'* 
continued my servant, " my lord's horses are for sale; unless you 
first buy mine you shall not purchase his animals." 

Some conversation ensued, a farmer at last offered 10 liras for the 
five horses. 

" The ESendi gave 16 liras for the gray at Stamboul," remarked 
my servant. 

" Ardahan is not Stamboul," replied the Circassian; " the horses 
have carried the Effendi a very long distance." 

" This proves that they aie good animals," said Mohammed. 
i It shows that they were good horses," observed the Circassian, 

dryly- . 

No one would bid any higher, and as I was in a hurry to start, 1 
agreed to accept 7i liras for my own four horses, letting Moham- 
med have 2i for his own Rosinante-like steed. Seven liras and a 
half, or £6. 15s. is not a great price for four serviceable animals. 1 
could have obtained the same amount for four dead horses in Lon- 
don. However, my stud had carried us for more than two thou- 
sand miles, over a country without roads, and for the greater part 
of the distance through snow. 1 could not complain that the ani- 
mals had been dearly purchased. It cost me a pang to part with the 
little gray. He was a sterling good horse, and in England would 
have been worth from £60 to £70. The sale was concluded. In a 
few minutes I was receiving from the Circassian a pile of Turkish 
bank-notes, which he extracted one by one from some hiding-place 
next his skin. 



CHAPTER LXVI. 
We rode by several Turkish and Kurd villages in the direction of 
Ardanusch. The track was firm and tolerably level. After a four 
hours' march we crossed the Ardahan river on a wooden bridge 



242 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



about seventy yards long by sixteen feet wide. The structure was 
very much out of repair; the planks were loose in many places, here 
and there large holes in the timber let us see the river below. We 
halted at Shadavan, a Turkish village containing about thirty 
houses, and close to the water's edge. 1 had intended to have made 
longer march, but the hired steeds were wretched brutes. They 
had shown unmistakable signs of fatigue. The proprietor of the 
house in which we stopped owned large flocks of sheep, the country 
round Ardahan being chiefly grazing land. He informed me that 
for every thousand sheep he possessed, the tax collector took from 
him the sum of thirty liras annually. There was no tax for sheep 
under a year old, nor for cows and oxen. 

Two hours after leaving Shadavan, the path crossed a high mount- 
ain. It was covered with its winter garb; this fortunately was 
frozen hard and afforded a firm foothold. The scenery around us 
became each moment more wild; fir-trees, shaded in their cold white 
robes, embroider the sides oi the steep; huge rocks, their northern 
faces covered with snow, but -black as ebony toward the south, 
frown down on the glistening carpet. The track wound higher and 
higher. A thick oppressive mist enveloped us like a shroud. We 
were above the clouds. The air became each moment more rarefied. 
We breathed with difficulty, owing to our elevation. It seemed at 
last as if we had reached the roof of the earth. A plateau lay be- 
fore us. 

Onward we march. Our horses struggle through the drifts. Every 
minute we have to stop to let them take breath. At last the road 
begins to descend; now abruptly for a few hundred yards, we slide 
down some glaciers; then it dips over a succession of crests, each 
one lower than its predecessor. We reach the regions of vegetation, 
and continuing for some time our descent, find that winter has been 
left behind us. , 

There were many villages in this district, fruit-trees abounded 
throughout the neighborhood. No more snow could be seen. The 
weather was oppressively warm. The Tschoroch river dashed along 
-at our feet on its way to Batoum. Mohammed, pointing at the 
rapid stream, said something to my English servant. 

" What is he saying?" I inquired. 

" He don't like the idea of going in a boat, sir," replied Kadford. 
" He is afraid that he will be drowned." 

* Do you know how to swim, Mohammed ?" 1 inquired. 

" No,*Effendi. Can not we continue our journey by road to Ba- 
toum?" he added. " The road is safe, but the water is dangerous." 

" Mohammed, it may be written in your kismet that you are to 
be drowned." 

" Perhaps, Effendi. But—" 

" But what?" 

" If 1 am to die, 1 would sooner end my days in a bed." 

" You ought to be very glad to have the chance of dying," 1 now 
remarked. " Only think of the many wives who are awaiting you 
in the next world." 

Mohammed here shrugged his shoulders. 

" Effendi, you are a Christ an." 



OK HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOB. 243 

" Do Christians believe in a future state of happiness?" 
"Yes." 

" "Do they think that their heaven will be more delightful than '. 
this earth?" 
"Yes." 

" If a Christian is ill, does he send for a hakim (physician)?" 
"Yes." 

" Then," added Mohammed, triumphantly, " why does he do so? 
he ought to be delighted at the chance of speedily going to Paradise, 
and yet, Effendi, according to you, the Christian does his best to 
postpone his pleasure." 

The track now became very bad, it led several times across the 
river, which was spanned by rickety wooden bridges. The May- 
trees were in full blossom. The voices of a thousand songsters 
chirruping amidst the branches echoed over the waters. 

We enter what appears to be a vast amphitheater. The Coliseum 
at Rome on a gigantic scale lies before us. 1 ts walls are represented 
by a circular range of hills, the boxes looking down upon the arena 
by numerous chalets that jut forth from the slopes. An enormous 
rock faces us. It stands out on one side of the amphitheater, and 
might have been an emperor'-s throne. The boxes grow larger as 
we ride across the arena. The resemblance fades away. A speck 
appears on the crest of a neighboring height; bigger and bigger it 
becomes. 

" Kale, or the old fortress of Ardanusch," says our guide, point- 
ing to it. Soon atterward we put up for the night in a house be- 
longing to the Caitnacan of the district. This official informed me 
that it was only an eighteen hours' march to Akiska, the Russian 
frontier station. The road to the border was a good one; artillery 
could be brought along it. There were no troops in Ardanusch, 
and the governor was much alarmed lest the Russians should com- 
mence the war by an attack upon his town. Whilst we were convers- 
ing, a servant brought him a letter which had been sent on by 
special messengers from Ardahan. 

The Caimacan opened the envelope. " War!" he cried. " An 
order has come for me to call out all the Mostaphas (the last reserve) 
in this district. The government would have never put itself to 
this expense unless our Padishah had felt sure that war was inevi- 
table." 

Leaving me, the governor went out to give the necessary orders 
for the execution of the Sultan's mandate. 

We continued onward to Livana; the track was sometimes so nar- 
row that we had to ride or lead our horses in Indian file. Now we 
come to a place where ten men could defend the road against an 
army, and then to a spot where the path has given way altogether, 
and fallen into the stream below. Our guide reins his horse back- 
ward. It is impossible to turn. We essay another route, and pres- 
ently again strike the river. A large cayek was anchored by the 
bank. A man coming up to me proposed that we should go in his 
boat to Batoum. 

" How much money do you want for taking us there?" 1 inquired. 
*' Ten liras, Effendi." 

" Go away, sheep's son!" ejaculated Mohammed, indignantly: " we 



2U 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



will ride to Livana, which is only four hours march from here; and 
then, if it pleases the Effendi to trust himself to a boatman, 1 will 
get a ship for two liras— rascal that you are to ask ten liras for the 
hire of your little cayek!" 

CHAPTER LXVII. 
The road took a very circuitous course as we approached Livana. 
We were several hundred feet above the Tschoroch river, and could 
gaze down almost perpendicularly into the abyss below. Suddenly, 
the sound of a shout reached our ears. We glanced in the direction 
of the noise. 

" It is the cayek," said Mohammed, eagerly; " the men are tak- 
ing it to Livana. They will next propose that we should hire it 
from there to Batoum. Holy Prophet!" he continued, "how the 
water roars, how near the boat goes to the rocks! My body groans, 
Effendi, at the idea of going to Batoum by water." 

" You will very likely soon have to fight the Russians," 1 replied; 
" what difference can it make if you are drowned to-morrow in 
the Tschoroch, or are shot a few weeks later?" 

" To-morrow is close at hand, Effendi. It would be better to die 
a few weeks later; besides that, when the Russians are shooting at 
me, 1 shall be shooting at them. I shall be frightened, but they 
will be frightened too. It is very different to travel on the river. 
1 can not drown the river, the river can drown me," and Mohammed 
shuddered as the cayek, darting round a neighboring crag, suddenly 
disappeared froni our view. 

We crossed a stone bridge, which spans the Tschoroch, and began 
to climb the steep hill on which Livana is built. 

1 stayed at the house of the Caimacan, a Georgian by birth. He 
was popular with the Armenians. Several of the Christian mer- 
chants who came to visit me spoke very highly in his praise. For- 
merly there had been many robberies in the neighborhood, but 
Alinihat Bey, the Caimacan, had arrested all the robbers, every 
man's life and property were now secure. I now heard amongst other 
rumors, one which 1 had previously heard in Persia, to the effect 
that the Padishah of the United States had informed the Queen of 
England that if she were to join Turkey against Russia, that he, the 
Padishah of the United States, would ally himself with the Tzar, 
According to the Caimacan this had restrained England up to the 
piesent time from allying herself witti the Sultan. " You will see 
the Pasha at Batoum?" observed the speaker. 

"Yes." 

44 Will you do me a favor?" 
" Certainly." 

<4 Effendi, 1 have a Kateb (clerk), a good man— that fellow on the 
carpet. Look how beautifully he writes 1 He is nice-looking, too, 
and we all like him. But the Pasha, he has a Kateb. The fellow 
is hideous, besides lhat, he has a node in the middle of his forehead. 
Ihe governor wishes to change Katebs with me. He says he does 
not like a man with a node on his forehead; I do not like this either; 
and to sit all day long with a man who is so disfigured would make 
me very ill." 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 245 



4 ' It would make us all ill," observed the Armenians, eager to 
please the Caimacan. 

: " Yes," continued the latter; " Efiendi, you would oblige us very 
much it you will tell the Pasha that I like my Kateb and do not 
wish to part with him. A man with a node is a disgusting sight," 
he added. 

' Very disgusting," said the Armenians — the man who spoke 
loudest being a Christian with a hump-back. 

In, the. meantime, Mohammed had made an arrangement with the 
owner of a large cayek to take us the following morning to Batoum, 
which would be about a nine hours' journey by water frorn Livana. 
We rode down to the bank of the river. Here, close by the bridge, 
was a large boat. It was half full ot firewood, which was going to 
Batoum. Two oarsmen sat in the stern of the cayek, and two more 
in the bows. There were no rowers in the middle of the boat; this 
part was filled with wood, some other passengers, my party and self. 
Our fellow-travelers and the boatmen were Georgians, A very stout 
old gentleman, who sat behind me, was arrayed in a bright blue 
jacket and a large white turban; in addition to this he carried a 
gigantic scarlet umbrella. A few drops of rain began to fall; the 
umbrella was opened. Its happy possessors looked proudly round; 
he was an object of admiration and envy to the rest of his country- 
men. 

The boatmen, who were clad in brown serge jackets and trousers, 
had their breasts covered with cartridge-cases, in the Circassian style. 
Each man carried a long silver- mounted dagger in his waist-belt, 
and a black cufia, a sort of head attire, was worn by them instead of 
a turban. The river, which was' very high, ran through the arch 
of the bridge at a great pace. Mohammed's face became an ashen 
hue as the captain of the cayek, loosening the cord which bound his 
bark to the shore, pushed off into the boiling torrent. For the first 
second or two the oarsmen could not get any command over their 
boat. It turned round and round, missing, as it were, by a miracle, 
the many rocks in the channel. 

The rowers were all this time raising wild cries to Allah. Mo- 
hammed, who had crouched down in the bottom of the bark, was 
grasping Radford's hand in a paroxysm of terror. In another mo- 
ment, the crew succeeded in gaining the mastery over their craft. 
They steered her into the middle of the river. The current was 
running like a mill-stream. We flew rather than floated along the 
waters. 

Numerous rocks interrupt the channel; some of them are forty 
and fifty feet above the surface ; others can only be detected by the 
foam and the surf which bubble over their dangerous peaks. The 
mountains on either side of us are of igneous stone; they are covered 
with green bushes. A white line winds amongst the heights; it 
marks the track to Batoum, an eighteen hours' march by land, but 
only nine by water. We pass the ruins of an old castle. We dart 
round a promontory. The scene changes. Vineyards deck the riv- 
er's banks. Oxen can be seen plowing the slopes above us. Many 
women, in bright red garments, and with white head-dresses, fol- 
low the plow. They knock to pieces the clods of earth with iron 



246 ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 

hoes. Waterfalls pour down the heights. The river grows wider; 
it becomes more rapid every moment. The wind is rising. The 
chief boatman remarks that we can not arrive at Batoum that even- 



To reach the town it was necessary to enter the Black Sea; but to 
effect this in stormy weather, and in an undecked boat, would be im- 
possible. We anchored for the night at the village of Miradet, four 
hours from Livana by the river, but twelve by land. 1 obtained 
accommodation in the house of the Mudir of the district. There 
were some cells in this building; in one of - them was a prisoner— a 
deserter, who had run away from the army. There was a hearth in 
his dungeon, and Radford was permitted to cook there, the deserter 
taking great interest in the culinary operations. 



1 now learned that corn is dear in this district, costing two pias- 
tres and a half the oke. It is chiefly brought here from the neigh- 
borhood of Ardahan, the difficulty of transport adding enormously 
to the price. Indian corn is grown in the vicinity of Livana, but it 
is not easy to procure barley. This last, however, is not so much 
required, 'as there are hardly any horses in the neighborhood. 

Just above Miradet lie the ruins of an old bridge. At this time 
of the year, the only way to cross the river is in the cayeks of the 
peasants. I was informed that in the summer months a horseman 
could ford the Tschoroch in some places near the village. Accord- 
ing to the Mudir, there are iron-mines in the neighborhood, but the 
inhabitants did not work them. 

There was a battalion of infantry, Bashi Bazouks, in this village. 
The men, Georgians, were magnificent fellows, much taller than the 
Turkish soldiers, and with that light elastic step which distinguishes 
rnountaiaeers. A report had just reached Miradet that the Persians 
were attacking Bagdad with thirty thousand men. In the opinion 
of the Mudir, this was the precursor of an immediate outbreak of 
hostilities between the Sultan's forces on the one hand and Russia 
and Persia on the other. 

- We entered our cayek early the following morning. Mohammed 
was more alarmed, if possible, than on the previous afternoon. A 
passengei had been drowned two weeks before, when going to 
Batoum. Mohammed had learned this; he now bandaged his eyes 
with a pocket-handkerchief. 

" What are you doing that for?" 1 inquired. 

M So as not to see the waters," replied Mohammed; " they roar, 
my stomach aches. ; ' 

" Tchoch evi (very nice), is it not?" suddenly remarked Radford, 
nudging his fellow-servant violently in the Tibs. We were in the 
midst of some rapids. Two or three violent bumps announced our 
close proximity to the rocks. " He will not laugh at me any more, 
sir, for not liking to look down precipices. Have a hegg, 
Mohammed?" taking one from his own pocket, Radfoid handed it 
to the sufferer. 




CHAPTER LXV111. 



OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA . MINOR. 



247 



We bad arrived at the open sea. Mohariirned removed his hand- 
kerchief from his eyes, the motion of the eayek was different to that 
which he experienced on the river. He gazed upon Ihe egg for an 
instant, and then thrust it away indignantly; the sea and his fears 
were too much for him; he leaned against the side of the boat. 
Radford was thoroughly revenged. 

The harbor of Batoum is one of the finest in the Black Sea. 
Numerous batteries mounted with heavy guns defend it on the sea 
side. Three large ironclads were anchored within thirty yards of 
the shore, the water being very deep. 

i landed at the quarantine station, and now learned that every 
house in the town, or rather village, was crowded with troops. The 
doctor of the quarantine offered me a room in the station; 1 gladly 
availed myself of his kindness. 

There were only 8,000 men in Batoum itself; the remainder of the 
garrison, consisting of 12,000 infantry, with some artillery, were 
stationed at Tschoroch Su, a strong position about six hours from 
the town, and defending the road from Poti. Mohammed's Tokat 
battalion was quartered here. It was probably the point against 
which the Russians would make their first attack, he was aware of 
that fact. 

M Would you like to accompany me to Constantinople?" 1 asked. 

" No, Effendi, not for all the money in the world will 1 go there. 
One hour on the sea is very awful; five days would kill me. - My 
brother," pointing to Radford, " is brave on the water, 1 am brave 
on the land; we aie botn brave;" seizing his fellow -servant's hand, 
Mohammed shook it heartily. 

A major on the staff called. According to him, the Cossack out- 
posts were in the habit of firing upon the Turkish troops. It ap- 
peared that on the 26th of March, 1877, a few Turkish soldiei3 were 
waiting in the Sultan's territory, but on the edge of a frontier-line. 
Some Russian soldiers fired and shot three of them; then, fording 
a river, which divides the two countries, the Cossacks carried the 
dead bodies and arms to the Russian side of the border. They 
afterward complained to their officer that the Turks crossed over on 
Russian soil. 

*' War has not been declared," 1 remarked. 

"No," said the major; " the Russians are doing their best to 
make us attack them ; but we shall not do so. They shall have the 
whole odium of the war, and Allah will judge between us!" 

1 accompanied the officer to an encampment close to the coast. 
The tents had been pitched between the mouth of the Tschoroch " 
River and the town. Three thousand infantry soldiers were quartered 
in this place. The sanitary arrangements of the camp left very 
little to be desired. Everything was clean and orderly. An air of 
smartness prevailed amongst the soldiers, which was refreshing to 
witness after what 1 had seen in other parts of the empire. The 
men's tents were banked up with stones to a height of three feet 
from the gFound. AY ell-dug trenches carried off the rainfall. 
Many of the officers lived in huts which were surrounded by little 
gardens. All these battalions were armed with the Martini -Peabody 
rifle. I asked some of the men how they liked their new weapon. 



248 



OX .HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA Mil? OR. 



being curious to know if they objected to the recoil. There was no 
fault found with the gun on this score. The troops were highly- 
pleased with the arm. They wished for nothing better than to have 
the opportunity of trying it upon their quarrelsome neighbors. 

We next visited the market in the town, or rather village, for 
Batoum, with its few hundred straggling houses, does not deserve 
the former title. There was hardly anything exposed for sale. A 
solitary sheep was hung up in one shop. Some stale fish were lying 
on the counter of another. There were several money-changers in 
the streets; business, however, was slack, and these gentlemen lived 
by lending money on exorbitant terms to the Turks — the usurers 
being many of them Armenian Christians. 

A Turkish steamer was to leave Batoum that night for Constanti- 
nople. 1 made inquiries as to when she would be likely to arrive at 
her destination. 

" In five days," said the agent at the book-office — a most satur- 
nine-looking old Turk, " that is, if the Lord wills it; but the Lord 
may will that the vessel shall lay to in Trebizond, and return here 
with troops without going to Stamboul." 

Under these circumstances I determined to go in the Turkish boat 
as tar as Trebizond, and continue my journey in some other steamer 
to Constantinople. Mohammed accompanied me on board the vessel. 
The moment for parting at length arrived. The poor fellow was 
much affected. Some big tears began to roll down his cheeks. 

" Will you go with me to Constantinople?" 1 inquired. 

" To the end of the world, EfYendi!" 

" But think how ill you will be." 

" Never mind, Effendi, only let me come. It is true that my 
stomach sunk within me yesterday, but my heart is very full to-day, 
for am 1 not losing my lord, as well as my brother?" — seizing Rad- 
ford's hand, Mohammed wrUng it heartily. 

The vessel had got up steam; the deck was being cleared. Moham- 
med rubbed, his eyes with the back of his hand, and clambered down 
the side of the ship into a little boat. Several of his countrymen tried 
to comfort him. He was not to be consoled. As we steamed out 
of the harbor I could still see the poor fellow straining his eyes in 
our direction. 

" That Mahommed was not such a bad chap after all, sir," pres- 
ently remarked Radford. " Them Turks have stomachs, and like 
filling them they do; but they have something in their hearts as 
well." 

There was a great deal of truth in the observation. Those people 
in England who have declared that it is impossible to reform the 
Turks would do well to learn the Turkish language, and travel in 
the Sultan's dominions. Human nature is everywhere much the 

There is more good in the world than bad, or otherwise, as a 
French philosopher once said, the bad would have destroyed the 
good, and the human race would no longer exist. Give the Turks 
a good government, and Turkey would soon take her place amid 
civilized nations. 

Thjp, however, would not be pleasing to the Sultan's powerful 



ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR. 



249 



neighbor. Reform is impossible in Turkey so long as Russian 
agents* ferment rebellion amid the Sultan's subjects. 

One 01 my fellow-passengers was a Turkish doctor. He had the 
rank of Pasha, and was under the Army "Medical Department. He 
had left Constantinople with orders to visit Kars, and report to his 
government about the sanitary state of this town. On arriving at 
Batoum, he found that the tracks were still covered with snow. 
, The doctor, who was suffering from heart disease, had determined 
to return to Trebizond. 

" In what state is the road between Erzeroum and Kars?" he now 
asked. 

" Probably it is covered with snow." 

" Dear me," said the Pasha, " 1 shall wait a little at Trebizond 
for a change of weather." 

" You had better go to Kars as soon as possible," 1 remarked, 
" or there will be an outbreak of fever there." 

" If I travel quickly," observed the official, " 1 shall die of heart 
disease. A little sooner or later will not make much difference to 
the people in Kars. 1 shall be able to leave the service in a year 
and a half," he continued; " if 1 were to hurry myself, death might 
carry me off before 1 could enjoy my pension. Please God there 
will be no war. TVe shall have so many cases to attend. 1 was at 
Alexinatz," he added. 

"Did you have a great deal to do?" 

"Yes, so few of our surgeons know anything about anatomy; 
dissecting a Mohammedan is contrary to the tenets of Islam. But 
there were plenty of dead Servians, and so our people practiced upon 
them." 

The following morning we arrived at Trebizond. There was a 
French steamer on the point of starting for Constantinople. 1 had 
just time to take my luggage on board of her. In a few minutes 
we were again steaming ahead. Three days later, and after a most 
delightful passage, we anchored in the Bosphorus. My leave of 
absence had nearly expired. There would be another French vessel 
belonging to Les Messaged es Mari times leaving on the morrow for 
Marseilles. 1 took our tickets on my way to the Hotel de Luxem- 
bourg, and eight days afterward arrived in London. 

jj W Vria ;Ks vrtte Ld-*4*s ft* a*w marn^^^ 

CHAPTER LXIX. 

My journey was over. A few weeks after my return to London 
war was declared by Russia against Turkey. In the opinion of Her 
Majesty's government, this was a most iniquitous and unnecessary 
step on the part of the Tzar. Her Majesty's government did not 
conceal its views about the matter. Tlie Earl of Derby, in a dis- 
patch to Lord A. Loftus, dated May 1, 1877, made use of the fol- 
lowing expressions: 

S They (i.e., Her Majesty's government) have not concealed their 
feeling that the presence of large Russian forces on the frontiers of 
Turkey, menacing its safety, rendering its disarmament impossible. 



* See Appendix IV. 



250 OX HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MISTOR. 

and exciting a feeling of apprehension and fanaticism among the 
Mussulman population, constituted a material obstacle to internal 
pacification and reform. They can not believe that the entrance of 
these armies on Turkish soil will alleviate the difficulty, or improve 
the condition of the Christian population throughout the Sultan's 
dominions. But the course on which the Russian government has 
entered involves graver and more serious considerations. It is in 
contravention of the stipulations of the Treaty of Paris of March 
30, 1856, by which Russia and Ihe other signatory powers engaged 
each on its own part to respect the independence and the territorial 
integrity of the Ottoman Empire. In the Conference of London of 
1871, at the close of which the above stipulation, with others, was 
again confirmed, the Russian Plenipotentiary, in common with 
those of other powers, signed a declaration affirming it to be an 
essential principle of the law of nations, that no power can liberate 
itself from the engagement of a treaty, nor modify the stipulations 
thereof, unless with the consent of the contracting parties by means 
of an amicable* arrangement. In taking action against Turkey on 
his own part, and having recourse to arms without further consul- 
tation with his allies, the Emperor of Russia has separated himself 
from the European concert hitherto maintained, and has at the same 
time departed from the rule to which he himself had solemnly re- 
corded his consent. It is impossible to foresee the consequences of 
such an act. Her Majesty's government would willingly have re- 
frained from making any observations in regard to it; but Prince 
Gortchakoff seems to assume, in a declaration addressed to all the 
governments of Europe, that Russia is acting in the interests of 
Great Britain, and that of the other powers; they feel. bound to 
state, in a manner equally formal and public, that the decision of 
the Russian government is not one which can have their concur- 
rence or approval." 

It is very clear, from this dispatch, what the opinion of Her 
Majesty's government was about the matter. However, neither 
Prince Gortchakoff nor his august master are easily affected by 
verbal remonstrances. They had shown how little they cared for 
treaties by their conduct after the battle of Sedan. 

" Fiance is beaten, and who cares for England?" thought Prince 
Gortchakoff: he tore up the Black Sea Convention. 

His august master, animated of course with the most peaceful 
intentions, wishes to destroy the Turkish Empire. . Verbal remon- 
strances are of no use if applied to a semi-barbarous nation. Some 
people can be appealed to through their sense of right and wrong, 
others only through their skins. The Russian nation has a pecul- 
iarly thick skin; for this reason the rod ought to be a heavy one. 
England, allied with Turkey, and before the latter power is crip- 
pled, could easily apply it. The Tzar might be compelled to fulfill 
his solemn assurance about Khiva; Russia could be driven out of 
Central Asia, and forced to relinquish her hold on the Caucasus. 

A conference might then be held at St. Petersburg to arrange 
about the conditions of peace, and to inquire into the treatment of 
the United Greek Christians. Lord Salisbury could inform Prince 
Gortchakoff that some of the British nation do not approve of the 
Russian authorities ordering soldiers to flog Christian women and 



APPENDIX. 



251 



children,* by way ot making them change their religion; and that 
others object to the Tzar's troops killing Circassian women in the 
family- wa3 r .f 

We have been told that these last mentioned individuals were 
Mohammedans, and that Prince Gortchakoff 's master would have 
liked to Christianize and civilize them ; but at the same time, and in 
spite of the assertion of a member of the late Liberal government, 
that Russia is the protector of the unprotected, our plenipotentiary 
might be instructed to tell the Tzar that his soldiers should have 
shown their amiable qualities in some other manner. The subject 
of the Teke Turcomans, and how they were massacred— men, 
women, and children —during the Khivan campaign, could also 
afford our representative an opportunity for remonstrating with the 
Imperial chancellor. 

The latter should finally be distinctly given to understand that 
Englishmen do not look upon the establishment ot a Constitution 
and a Parliament by the Turkish government as an insult and de~ 
fiance to Russia, whatever the Russians may do4 



APPENDIX 1. 

THE FLOGGERS OF WOMEN. 

Lieutenant- Colonel Mansfield to Earl Granville. . 
Official (Received Feb. 16.) 

Warsaw, January 29, 1874. 

My Lord, — It is with regret that I have to report to your Lord- 
ship a renewal of disturbances in the districts inhabited by the 
United Greeks in the Governments of Siedlce and Lublin, resulting 
in bloodshed, loss of life, and the MOST BARBAROUS TREAT- 
MENT inflicted on the peasants. 

* r * * * * * * 

Several months since various of the United Greek priests repre- 
sented to M. Popiel, the Administrator of the Diocese ot Chelm, 
that the measures of assimilation had been but partially carried out; 
and that those priests who had done so were exposed to the gravest 
difficulties, amounting almost to persecution, at the hands of the 
peasants. 

M. Popiel applied to Count Tolstoi, who forwarded from St. 
Petersburg, within the last few weeks, a Circular, enjoining the 
strictest uniformity in the abolition of organs and benches, the dis- 
use of the rosary, the bell at the mass, chants in Polish, and many 
other details, too numerous to be worth relation. 

Such of the priests as had not, or were not prepared to execute the 

* See Appendix I., the Floggers of Women and Children. 
+ See Appendix VII., The Schoolmasters in Massacre, 
t See Appendix IV, 



252 



APPENDIX. 



recommendations of the Circular, have been ejected from their cures. 
The number, however, is insignificant, as almost all had previously 
acquiesced in the views of the Government, and the Nonconformists 
had been eliminated. 

As may be supposed, the peasants care nothing about the Synod 
of Zamose, or about the purity of usages of the Primitive Church, 
Oriental or otherwise; but they have a deep-rooted veneration for 
the usages in which they and their fathers have been brought up. 

The operation of Count Tolstoi's Circular has been most disas- 
trous; in some few villages the peasants have entirely abstained from 
frequenting the churches; but in many the priests have been ill- 
treated, one having been stoned to death. 

The aid of the police and military has been called on; in one 
parish three peasants were killed and many wounded. Isolated 
Cossacks are waylaid and murdered by the peasants. In some of 
the conflicts the military have been roughly handled, stoned, 
wounded by scythes, bones broken, and contusions, more especially 
among the pfficers. 

In the district of Minciewicz, the peasants surrounded the church, 
and defied the military to introduce the priest. The former, with 
their wives and children, were finally mastered and surrounded, and 
were given the option of signing a declaration accepting the priest; 
on their refusal FIFTY BLOWS WITH THE " NAG AIR A " * 
(COSSACK WHIP) were given to every adult man, TWENTY- 
FIVE to E VERY WOMAN, AND TEN to EVERY CHILD, 
IRRESPECTIVE OF AGE OR SEX; ONE WOMAN more vehe- 
ment than the rest, receiving as much as ONE HUNDRED. 
******* 

I have, etc., 

(Signed) 

C. E. Mansfield. 



APPENDIX ill 

CHRISTIANITY AS UNDERSTOOD IN RUSSIA. 

Lieutenant- Colonel Mansfield to the Earl of Derby. 
(Received February 22.) 

Warsaw, January 29, 1875. 
{Extract.) " >; 

1 have the honor to report to your Lordship that 52,000 United 
Greeks in the Government of the Siedlce have been received into the 
Russian National Church. 

1 need not recall to your Lordship's notice, the PERSECUTION 
of the UNITED GREEKS, which I have had to report for several 
years past, and which, within the last twelve months, has taken a 
more exaggerated form. 

* Is this the way the Rev. Mr. Malcolm Maccoll would like to see the union 
of the Eastern and Western churches brought about? 



APPENDIX. 



253 



THE PASSING OYER OF THESE 52,000 UNITED GREEKS 
has been effected by various means, in which PHYSICAL MAL- 
TREATMENT has formed a not inconsiderable element. 

In some parishes, THE MOST OBSTINATE having been sent to 
the interior of the Empire OR SIBERIA, THE REMAINDER, 
finding their substance being eaten up by the Cossacks, gave in to 
the pressure of the subordinate officials, and SIGNED THE 
PETITION DESIRING TO BE RECEIVED INTO THE RUS- 
SIAN CHURCH. 

In other districts money has been distributed, when it was seen 
that the resistance was less obdurate. 

In others CORPORAL MALTREATMENT was resorted to, 
until the peasants gave in; but stating as they did so, that they 
yielded only on compulsion. 

The details of the different degrees of compulsion in the various 
villages would take too much space to relate; but 1 cite as a speci- 
men what 1 have heard, from a gentleman of whose veracity 1 have 
no reason to doubt, of what took place in a village on his property. 

The peasants were assembled and beaten by the Cossacks, until 
the military surgeon stated that more would endanger life ; THEY 
WERE THEN DRIVEN THROUGH A HALF -FROZEN 
RIVER UP TO THEIR WAISTS INTO THE PARISH 
CHURCH, through files of soldiers, where their names were en- 
tered in the petitions as above, and passed out at an opposite door, 
the Deasants all the time crying out, " YOL T MAY CALL US 
ORTHODOX, BUT WE REMAIN IN THE FAITH OF OUR 
FATHERS." 

******* 



APPENDIX 111. 

RUSSIAN CIVILIZATION. 

Ls* an extract from the Monde, published in some correspondence 
laid before the Houses of Parliament, I find the following re- 
marks: 

•• Russia is anxious for a second Congress, and asks all Europe to 
agree to it, in order to settle certain rules of humanity to be observed 
during a war, and she aspires to appear in the eyes of the world as 
a civilized nation fall of charily; how can we reconcile this with the 
fact that this Power should be so barbarous in time of peace as re- 
gards its peaceful subjects, whose only fault is that of remaining 
faithful to the religion of their fathers? 

41 The cruelties that the Russian Government perpetrate against 
the unhappy Catholics who are called United Greeks, are worthy of 
the horrors of the time of Nero. The Province of Podlachia, the 
people of which are Ruthenians, is more especially persecuted. 
There blood has flowed in streams for more than a year. Troops 
have been sent there who behave as if they were in an enemy's coun- 
try, for they live entirely at the expense of the people, who are not 
rich. The soldiers are authorized to kill for food all the cattle with- 
out exception, even the draught oxen. 

"The inhabitants who remain true to their faith are delivered 



254 



APPENDIX. 



over to a THOUSAND TORTURES. The commonest form is to 
STRIP THEM, then, ONLY CLOTHED IN THEIR SHIRT, 
THEY ARE STRETCHED ON THE SNOW AND BEATEN 
UNTIL THEY ARE NEARLY DEAD, as much from the effects 
of ths blows as from the loss of blood and the cold they suffer. 
They are then taken to the ambulances. If they recover those in- 
genious tortures can be renewed on them, which Russia distributes 
freely to those who refuse obstinately to embrace that orthodox 
religion which is brought before them in so Ibenigu and attractive a 
manner. 

" This Polish province contains at least 300,000 United Greeks, 
all under this same religion, for all are to be converted by this 
apostolic proceeding. The number of unfortunates crippled by the 
beatings is so great that it has been found necessary to organize 
many new ambulances. They are thrown into them ; but it must 
not be imagined that they are cared for there. God alone is their 
doctor, for no trouble is taken either to treat or feed them. 

" Moreover, this same treatment is adopted for sick and wounded 
soldiers. With the object of cheering them they are given a kind of 
soup made of gruel of revolting, half-mould buckwheat, in which 
the grains are drowned in a quantity of hot water. In time of war 
THE SORES OF THE WOUNDED ARE OFTEN DRESSED 
WITH STRAW, BECAUSE THE LINT AND THE CLOTH 
WHICH ARE SENT BY CHARITABLE PEOPLE TO THE 
HOSPITALS ARE SOLD BY THE OFFICERS TO PAPER- 
MILLS. 

"All this may give some idea of what is passing there, where the 
passion of cruelty follows , an unrestrained course, proud to be able 
to advertise its unrighteous zeal in sight of those whose orders are 
being carried out. 

" One is filled with grief and astonishment when one thinks of the 
people exposed to tortures by Russian barbarity and wickedness. It 
is a counterpart of the Chinese persecution, which the Muscovites 
seem anxious even to surpass. 

" The heroism of the unhappy Podlachians is forgotten by all the 
world, they are delivered up to rapine and torture, deprived of 
union and hope, and bear all this with calm gentleness and perse- 
verance; they are ready to die,,so long as it is not outside the bosom 
of the Church, and after having betrayed their faith. 

"What an example to all, and what a disgrace for those Who, 
without being exposed to such trials, have not been able to perse- 
vere!" 



APPENDIX IV. 

RUSSIAN AGENTS AND THE MASSACRES IN BULGARIA. 

Extract from Mr. Layard's (H. M. Ambassador at Constantinople) 
Dispatch to the Earl of Derby, dated 30th May, 1877. 

" Since my arrival in Constantinople my main object has been to 
prepare the way tor peace. I have thought that in doing so 1 should 
best carry out the wishes and intentions of her Majesty's Govern- 
ment. I had this end in view, as 1 informed your lordship at the 



APPENDIX. 



255 



time when 1 induced the Porte to appeal to the Powers for their 
mediation under the 8th Article of the Treaty of Paris. 1 had little 
hope that war could he averted by this step, but it appeared to me 
that it might afford an opening for the interference of those powers 
in the interests of peace on some future occasion. The opening ot 
the war has not been quite so favorable to Russia as she appears to 
have expected. The extraordinary rise in the Danube has checked 
her advance on the side of Europe, and has enabled Turkey to in- 
crease her means of resistance. Although the Porte might, no 
doubt, have done more in this respect, there is no doubt that the 
difficulties of the Russian campaign in Rumelia have been much 
increased by the delay, and although Russia may succeed in the end, 
it will probably be at a greater sacrifice than she may have at first 
contemplated. The simultaneous attack on the European and 
Asiatic territories of Turkey has not, therefore, led to all the results 
upon which Russia apparently counted. According to information 
derived from various sources, it would appear that the rise in the 
waters of the Danube, and the consequent floods over the surround- 
ing country, will render its passage very difficult, if not impossible, 
for three or four weeks to come. Does not this delay afford an 
opening for another effort in the interests of peace? The position of 
affairs is this. Russia has succeeded in Asia, and thus she holds a 
material guarantee for what she may require on behalf of the Chris- 
tians of Turkey in the shape of a province; in Europe she cannot 
be said to have yet succeeded, and she will probably have "to en- 
counter a desperate resistance and to make vast sacrifices, before she 
can impose her own terms upon the Porte, Moreover, the longer 
the war lasts the greater the risk of drawing other Powers in it 
against her. If hostilities be prolonged, Turkey, in her despair, 
may have recourse to measures to embarrass and injure Russia, 
which may to a certain extent effect that object. Although the ris- 
ing in the Caucasus may not have the importance thai has been at- 
tributed to it, and the negotiations between the Porte and revolution- 
ary and national leaders may not lead to serious results, they are un- 
doubtedly a danger to Russia. The real intentions of Russia would 
also be brought to a test, by proposing to her at this moment a 
mediation. If her real object is, as she asserts, the improvement of 
the condition of the Christian populations, she has surely now the 
means of obtaining a satisfactory guarantee for it. The Turkish 
Government, it must be admitted, has already done a good deal in 
the direction pointed oat by the Powers at the Conference and in the 
Protocol of London. It is prepared to do more, and would do more 
if the war waged against Turkey by Russia permitted it. The les- 
son which the Porte has received has, no doubt, made it see the ab- 
solute necessity of complying with the demands of Europe, without 
even the material guarantee which Russia may require. If, on the 
other hand, Russia has the ambitious designs generally attributed to 
her, and has entered upon this war for the purposes of territorial 
aggrandizement, her professions of humanity and disinterestedness 
can now be gauged, and her Majesty's Government will be able, at 
least, to judge what her real objects and intentions are, and how 
far the interests of the British Empire may be affected or endangered 
by them. It must not, however, be inferred that the Porte will be 



256 



APPENDIX. 



so easily induced to makepeace, even were it in extreme periL There 
are some Turkish statemen who see the dangers which threaten their 
country, and who would feel the absolute necessity of bringing the 
war to an end almost at any sacrifice. While Russia might desire to 
exact much, no Turkish ministers could accept very hard or humil- 
iating conditions without risking their own lives, and even that of 
the Sultan, and without exposing the Christian populations to a 
massacre. 1 may be excused for pointing out the dangers to England 
of a prolongation of the war, and of a complete subjugation of a 
large part of the empire by Russia. Should Russia desire to annex 
at this time any of the European provinces of Turkey, European in- 
terests would, probably, be called into play, and she would be pre- 
vented from carrying out her intentions*. The influence, however, 
which she would inevitably establish over these populations would 
be almost tantamount to absolute possession, and would enable her 
to anneK them, sooner or later, when she could do so with impunity ; 
but as regards the acquisition by her of territory in Asia Minor, 
the case is different. The interests of England would then be alone 
concerned. IT WOULD PROBABLY SIGNIFY LITTLE TO 
THE REST OF EUROPE WHETHER RUSSIA RETAINED 
ARMENIA OR NOT. BUT ENGLAND HAS TO CONSIDER 
THE EFFECT OF THE ANNEXATION TO RUSSIA of this 
IMPORTANT PROVINCE UPON THE BRITISH POSSES- 
SIONS IN INDIA. RUSSIA WOULD THEN COMMAND the 
WHOLE OF ASIA MINOR and THE GREAT VALLEY OF 
THE EUPHRATES AND TIGRIS, WHICH WOULD IN- 
EVITABLY FALL INTO HER HANDS IN THE COURSE 
OF TIME. Persia, moreover, would be placed entirely at her 
mercy. The suspicion that Russia has already made secret offers to 
Persia to assist her in acquiring the province of Bagdad, in exchange 
for Ghilan and Mazanderan, may be unfounded; but the fact that 
it exists, and has been entertained b}' persons not generally ill-in- 
formed, proves that this consideration is not one to be altogether lost 
sight of. In most cases, when the evident interests of two parties 
are concerned in effecting an exchange, the exchange is sooner or 
later effected. The desire of Persia to possess the province of 
Bagdad, and the holy shrines of thir prophets and martyrs, is 
.of very ancient date, and is shared by the whole Persian na- 
tion. On the other hand, THE POSSESSION OF THE ENTIRE 
COAST OF THE CASPIAN SEA, AND THE DIRECT ROAD 
through a rich and well-inhabited country TO HERAT AND 
AFGHANISTAN, AND ULT1MA1ELY TO INDIA, is a matter 
of VAST POLITICAL IMPORTANCE TO RUSSIA. Such 
being the-case, there is every reason to believe that, when Persia 
finds that the Turkish Empire is threatened with dismemberment, 
her own interests will get the better of any sympathy for it founded 
upon community of faith, and that, completely under the control of 
Russia, she will not be indisposed to agree to an arrangement which 
would be acceptable to the religious feelings and to the ambition of 
the Persian people. The possession by Persia of the province of 
Bagdad would be, as far as England is concerned, its possession by 
Russia. It must not be forgotten that the possession of Armenia by 
Russia, as regards any designs that she may have upon India, sup- 



APPENDIX. 



257 



posing her to entertain them, would be very different from that of 
any part of Toorkistan or Central Asia, in Armenia and the north 
of Persia, she would have a hardy and abundant population, afford- 
ing her excellent materials for a large army, ready at any time to 
advance upon our Indian frontier, and resting upon a convenient and 
sure base of operations, in direct communication, by the Caspian 
Sea, and by Baloum, with the heart of the Russian empire. The 
moral effect of the conquest of Armenia and the annexations of 
Ghilan and Mazanderan by Russia upon our Mohammedan sub- 
jects and upon the populations of Central Asia, can not be over- 
looked by a statesman who attaches any value to the retention 
of India as part of the British Empire. It would be out of 
place to enter at length in this dispatch upon the arguments in 
support of what has been above stated. The great calamities 
Which the prolongation of the war may entail upon the various popu- 
lations of this country, Mussulman and non-Mussulman, and the 
vast importance to the interests of humanity in bringing it to a speedy 
end, may be briefly mentioned. It is scarcely necessary to refer to 
the terrible loss of life and desolation which such a war must occa- 
sion. If the slaughter of thousands and tens of thousands of Turks 
is to be justified, even those who profess to be the most humane of 
men may feel some pity for their innocent women and children, who 
will be left to perish in utter misery. But the Christians may suffer 
scarcely less than the Mohammedans; their homes will be rendered 
desolate; their lives and property -will be sacrificed to Turkish fanat- 
icism, or to the disorder and anarchy which the prolongation of the 
war will cause. The Porte, believing the very existence of the Em- 
pire to be at stake, has already withdrawn from the provinces even 
the forces absolutely necessary for the maintenance of tranquillity 
and for personal security. From all sides come already complaints 
of fears of disorders. In a country infinitely more civilized than 
Turkey, such would probably be the case under similar circum- 
stances. An impartial man will be surprised that as yet there have 
been so few excesses committed. The reports of our consular agents 
prove that the public peace has been maintained in a very remark- 
able manner. Such outrages as have occurred have been for the 
most part committed by Circassians, Kurds, and other wild tribes, 
over which, even in times of peace, the Government can exercise but 
small control. In Bulgaria and Rumeliain genera), as Mr. Blunt's 
dispatches show, the Mohammedan population are well disposed 
toward the Christians, and their attitude toward them is, for the 
present, friendly and peaceful. I am informed that the transport of 
the new levies of many thousands of men from the remotest part of 
the empire to the armies in the field has been effected with the great- 
est order. This fact has been confirmed to me by Englishmen and 
others connected with railways which have been used for conveying 
them. In Constantinople, notwithstanding the alarm and panics 
which normally prevail in Galata and Pera, there is also for the 
present perfect quiet, and there is no reason, as far as 1 can judge, 
to anticipate any hostile movement or demonstration against the 
Christians. Although the state of things in Turkey as regards the 
Christians is at this time such as 1 have described it, yet we must 
aot count upon its lasting. Any serious reverses or disasters experi- 

9 



258 



APPENDIX. 



enced by the Turkish army in Europe, and the advance of the Rus- 
sians upon the capital, or a rising of any part of the Christian popu- 
lation, might be used to provoke an outburst among the Mussul- 
mans, founded rather upon a feeling of despair than upon fanaticism, 
that might have the most fatal consequences. The Emperor of 
Russia has declared to his people that THIS IS A RELIGIOUS 
WAR, WAGED IN THE CAUSE OF THE ORTHODOX 
FAITH and against its infidel enemies. If Mussulmans are once 
convinced that it is a crusade against them and their religion they 
may, in their agony, turn upon the Christians, and frightful massa- 
cres may ensue. Another motive for desiring peace before Russia 
can completely crush Turkey and dictate her own terms is the RE- 
PUGNANCE UJS QUESTIONABLY FELT by the most EN- 
LIGHTENED and INTELLIGENT CHRISTIANS of all de- 
nominations to being placed under RUSSIAN RULE OR PRO- 
TECTION, or even under her predominant influence. 1 have given 
your lordship evidence of this tact which 1 believe to be indisputable. 
It is shown by the encyclical of the Greek patriarch, transmitted to 
your lordship by to-day's messenger. It is further confirmed by the 
remarkable statement of Dr. Washburne, whose impartiality can not 
be doubted, and who is certainly no advoeate of Turkish' misrule, 
that of the many hundred Bulgarians who have received an Ameri- 
can (equivalent to an English) education at Robert College, not one 
was implicated in the attempted insurrection in Bulgaria. The 
English people can not, perhaps, yet bear to hear the truth of the 
events of last year; but it is my duty to state it to your lordship. 
The marvelous ability shown by RUSSIA and HER AGENTS in 
MISLEADING PUBLIC OPINION in England and elsewhere has 
been amply rewarded. It will probably be long before that which 
is true can be separated from that which is false; when history does 
so it will be too late. The Porte has taken no effective means to 
place its case before Europe. It neither employs the Press nor com- 
petent agents for such purposes. Its appeals to the Powers, and the 
State papers that it issues, to refute the charges against it are so 
prepared that they are more calculated to injure its cause. A great 
portion of the English public are, probably, still under the impres- 
sion that the statements upon which the denunciations against 
Turkey were originally founded are true— the 60,000 Christians out- 
raged and massacred ; the cartloads of human heads; the crowd of 
women burned in a barn; and other similar horrors. There are 
persons, and among them, I grieve to say, Englishmen, who boast 
that they invented these stories with the object of " writing down '* 
Turkey, to which they were impelled by a well-known hand. 
People in England will scarcely believe that the most accurate and 
complete inquiries into the events of last year in Bulgaria now 
reduce the total number of deaths to about three thousand five hun- 
dred souls, including tiie Turks who were, in the first instance, slain 
by the Christians. No impartial man can now deny that a RISING 
of the CHRISTIANS, which was intended by its authors to lead to 
a GENERAL MASSACRE of the MOHAMMEDANS, was in con- 
templation, and that it was directed by RUSSIAN and PAN SLAV- 
1ST AGENTS. The panic that it created among the Mohammedans 
was the cause of the frightful vengeance they took. The great mass 



APPENDIX. 



259 



of the Bulgarians did not join in the movement, but were, on tiie 
contrary, opposed to it, and took no part in it. ' The Porte dealt 
with the insurgents, and those whom they suspected of being their 
accomplices, in a foolish and barbarous manner. The agents it em- 
ployed in putting down the incipient insurrection were, for the most 
part, ignorant, corrupt, and brutal men. The Turkish Government 
has justly been held responsible for their acts, especially as it has 
refused to punish with condign severity those who committed hor- 
rible outrages; and whether the number of the killed was 60,000 or 
3,000, the guilt of the Porte is the same. It must not, however, be 
assumed that the condition of the Bulgarians under the rule of the 
Sultan was as bad as the enemies of Turkey desire to make it appear. 
That the administration was vicious and corrupt, and that the 
Christians of all denominations were unjustly treated, and were not 
placed on that equality with their Mussulman fellow-subjects to 
which they have a right, are admitted facts. But, nevertheless, they 
have made great progress of late years in material prosperity, educa- 
tion, and wealth. Englishmen who have been engaged in works of 
charity amongst them, and who were certainly very far from having 
any prejudice in favor of the Turks when they first came out to 
Turkey, have told me that they have seen with surprise the condi- 
tion of the Bulgarian villages and the general comfort and prosperity 
of their inhabitants, and have learned with equal surprise how little 
they had really to complain of before a secret agency excited the 
hopes and passions which brought about the lamentable events of 
last year. The Christian populations of Turkey, or, rather, it may 
perhaps be said those who, by their knowledge and intelligence, are 
capable of representing them, are convinced that under the Turkish 
rule they have a far better chance of carrying out their national 
aspirations, of retaining their national faith, and developing their 
political freedom than under that of Russia. They believe that the 
pressure recently brought to bear upon the Porte by the European 
Powers, and the lesson which the Turkish Government has received, 
will contiibute to thesaobjects. They are encouraged by the unex- 
pected success of a Turkish Parliament, in which they find that 
they can freely express their opinions and expose their grievances. 
They knew that the unchecked success of Russia would at once lead 
to the destruction of this germ of future liberty and good govern- 
ment. 1 believe that they are right. A Russian gentleman observed 
to me, ' RUSSIA LOOKS UPON THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A 
CONSTITUTION AND A PARLIAMENT BY THE TURKISH 
GOVERNMENT AS AN INSULT AND DEFIANCE TO HER. 
Their existence would alone furnish us with a sufficient reason to 
make war upon Turkey. We will never consent to be the only 
Power left in Europe without constitutional institutions, and as we 
are not yet prepared for them, we can not, it is evident, allow Turkey 
to have them.' What I have ventured to write in this dispatch is, 1 
assure your lordship, founded upon no pieconceived ideas with re- 
gard to this country, but upon the information that 1 have obtained 
in free and unrestrained conversation with men of all classes, condi- 
tions, and religions. Not a day has passed since 1 have been here 
that I have not seen many such persons. Some have come to me of 
their own accord; others, who may have believed that their views 



260 



APPENDIX. 



would not be pala.table to me and have kepi away, 1 have invited to 
call upon me. 1 believe that the considerations which 1 have vent- 
ured to place before your lordship will be of considerable importance 
in the event of the mediation of Her Majesty's Government and other 
Powers being accepted by Turkey and Russia. 1 mast apologize to 
your lordship tor stating them thus frankly. The vast and vital in- 
terests at stake in this war, and the confidence which Her Majesty's 
Government have placed in me could alone justify me in doing so." 

In a dispatch to the Earl of Derby, dated May 23d, Mr. Layard 
says: 

" 1 have had a visit from the Servian agent, M. Christich, who 
showed me a telegram ivhich he had just received from the Servian 
Prime Minister, and had communicated this morning to Safvet 
Pasha. In it Mr. Ristics gave the MOST POSITIVE ASSUR- 
ANCE* that the SERVIAN GOVERNMENT did not contemplate 
ANY ATTACK upon Turkey; and that, so far from any troops 
having been concentrated on the Turkish frontier with this object, 
' there was not in the whole principality a band of more than five men 
together.' M. Christich said that the Grand Vizier had infoimed 
him that the Porte had received information that Russian troops were 
beginning to arrive at Turn Severin, opposite Gladova, exactly where 
the Russian volunteers had crossed last year into Servia, and that 
there are therefore strong grounds for suspecting that, notwithstand- 
ing the assurances given by Russia to Austria, she intended to pass 
an army into Servia. M. Christich added that he had assured the 
Grand Vizier that" the Servian Government had no reason whatever 
to believe that Russia intended to cross the Danube into Seryia; but 
that, on the contrary, they were convinced that she had no such in- 
tention. 1 thought the opportunity a good one to speak to M, 
Chrisitch of the great dangei that Prince Milan was running if he 
were to plunge the Principality again into war; and 1 hinted to him 
that His Highness might have to deal with Austria as well as 
Russia." 

In a dispatch to Lord Derby, dated from St. Petersburg on the 31st 
of May, Lord A. Lof tus, the British "Embassador", gives an account 
of an interview he had with Prince Gortchakofl prior to his depart- 
ure for the seat of war. 

" His Highness," says Lord A. Lof tus, '* expressed his conviction 
that the interests of the two countries in the East ought not to clash 
(se heurter), and his hope and expectation that the note of which 
Count Schouvaloft was the bearer, would be satisfactory to Her 
Majesty's Government. 1 inquired of His Highness in what light the 
Imperial Government regarded the declaration of independence by 
Roumania. Prince Gortchakofl replied that he regarded it as a 
fait accompli de facto, but not de jure. It was a question which 
could only be treated later, in conjunction with the European 
Powers. His Highness believed that the Austrian Cabinet took a 
similar view of it. In regard to Servia, Prince Gortchakofl stated 
that Prince Milan and the Servian Government liad expressed their 

* This actually happened in the first engagements in the neighborhood of 
Deli Baba. 



APPENDIX. 



261 



readiness in the present conjuncture to act according to the (volonte) 
wish of the Emperor, and that it had been signified to them in very 
decided terms that the EMPEROR'S WISH* was that SERVIA 
should remain PERFECTLY PASSIVE. Prince Gortchakoff 
was unable to say what would be the probable duration of the 
Emperor's absence, but 1 am told that in the official and court circles 
it is expected that his absence will not exceed six weeks." 



THE TTJKKISH CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES. 

In a dispatch bearing the date of June 2d, and addressed to the 
Earl of Derby, Mr. Layard gives an account of his visit to the Turk- 
ish Chamber of Deputies. He says: 

" At the time of my visit the Chamber was discussing a bill 
concerning municipal taxation. 1 may state, with confidence, and 
with some experience of the House of Commons, that I never saw a 
debate carried on with more order and propriety. Members may 
either speak from their seats or from a tribune, after the French 
fashion. With the exception of one individual, a Greek, they 
addressed the speaker or president from their places. Their speeches 
were short and to the point. Each article of the bill before them, 
was discussed, explanations were demanded of the representatives of 
the department of the Government that had submitted the law to the 
Parliament, and were at once given. It was then put to the vote, 
and was passed without a division. Each deputy had a copy of the 
bill before him, and followed with the greatest interest and attention 
the discussion. 1 did not observe one exception. Once, during my 
presence, there was a little expression of dissatisfaction in the house. 
The exceptional Greek, to whom 1 have alluded, went into the 
tribune with a bundle of papers, and began to read a speech which 
threatened to last for an indefinite time. It related to the history of 
Turkey in general, and especially to the grievances of the Christians, 
The president once or twice represented 'to him that, although his 
speech might properly be delivered on a suitable occasion, it had 
nothing to do with the question in discussion, which referred to a 
matter of detail of local administration. The deputy, however, per- 
sisted, and at last the house, becoming impatient, called upon him 
to comply with the regulations, to obey the president, and to come 
down. This he was at last obliged to do. In the English House of 
Commons, the speaker would certainly not have allowed him to go 
on as long as he did. No public assembly of the kind in Europe 
could, perhaps, show a more respectable, intelligent, and dignified 
body of men than the present Turkish Parliament. Christians and 
Mussulmans from all parts of the empire, even an Arab with his 
half-Bedouin dress, are seated without distinction together. Among 
the Mohammedans there are many mollahs, or teachers of the Koran, 
in their white turbans. The Christian speakers, Who predominated 
the day that I was present, were listened to without any sign of im- 
patience. They spoke with the most complete freedom, and with- 

* This is worth while remembering.— F. B. 



m 



APPENDIX. 



out any restraint. The president rarely interfered, except to point 
out to a deputy that he was wandering from the question in debate. 
It must be borne in mind that this was the first attempt to bring 
together in a popular assembly men from all parts of the empire, 
Mussulmans and Christians, wiio were entirely ignorant of the duties 
they had (o perform, and of the way to perform them. Had they 
not been directed and controlled at first by a strong hand, there 
would have been general confusion, and the experiment would prob- 
ably have failed. 1 know no man in Turkey so competent to be 
their president as Achmet Vefyk Pasha, from his knowledge, his 
honesty, and his determination and vigor of character. It is sur- 
prising, considering the materials with which he had to deal, that 
he has succeeded so soon in bringing the house into an orderly and 
business-like assembly. For some months there have been no com- 
plaints, even on the part of those who have done their best to dis- 
credit the Turkish Parliament, that the president has unnecessarily 
interfered in its discussions, or has in any way restrained the perfect 
freedom of debate. If there be any cause of complaint it is perhaps 
in the opposite direction. 



APPENDIX V. 

stabbing under the guise of friendship. 

Russian Government Officials encouraging the insurgents 
against the porte, whilst general ignatieff was the 
Russian Embassador at Constantinople, and Turkey and 
Russia were at peace together. 

The following is a dispatch from Sir. EL Elliott to the Earl of 
Derby, on this subject: 

Constantinople, February 14f7i, 1876. 
My Lord,— The account of the encouragement and countenance 
given to the Insurgents at Ragusa greatly exceeds all that I was pre- 
pared for. 

THE RUSSIAN CONSULATE IS THE OPEN RESORT 
OF THE INSURGENT CHIEFS. Their correspondence is sent 
to the CONSUL, who is a PARTY to all their PROJECTS, and 
ASSOCIATES HIMSELF INTIMATELY WITH THEM. 

He does not appear to make an attempt lo conceal the part he is 
playing, for on the uccasion Bf the death of the Chief Maxime, in 
one of the later encounters, the Russian flag at the consulate was 
hoisted at half-mast, and M. Jonine himself "joined the funeral pro- 
cession. 

With such acts as these, it is not surprising that the insurgents 
should suppose their attempt to be fully APPROVED BY THE 
RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT, for they can hardly be expected to 
believe that an ACCREDITED AGENT would venture upon them 
without knowing that it meets with the APPROVAL OF HIS 
SUPERIOR AUTHORITIES. 

Some of the wounded, when asked why they continue to struggle 
when the Porte is ready to grant all their demands, have answered 
plainly that THEY ARE BOUND TO GO ON AS LONG AS 
THEY ARE TOLD BY RUSSIA TO DO SO. 



APPENDIX. 



The assurances given at St. Petersburg of the wish of the Imperial 
Government that the insurgents would lav down their arms, must nat- 
urally go for nothing, as long as its OFFICIAL REPRESENTA- 
TIVE, with whom they are in communication, ECOURAGE8 
THEM TO GO ON. I have, &c, 

(Signed) Henry Elliott. 



APPENDIX VI. 

THE RUSSIAN WAY OP CHRISTIANIZING THE TURKS, 

{Official.) 
Consul Reade to Mr. Layard. 

Shumla, July md, 1677, 
Sir,— Having on my arrival here heard that a number of Mussul- 
man men, women, and children, said to have been attacked and 
wounded by Russian troops, were lying here, 1 obtained permission 
to see them. 

1 have the honor to inclose a list of those whom 1 saw, and who 
were lying in a "teke," a Dervish mosque, and apparently well 
cared tor. 1 saw most of their wounds, and spoke to them. 

Several of the elder ones gave very clear accounts of what had 
occurred to them (as they all said), by horsemen carrying lances, and 
many of them stated that they were attacked in the long grass where 
they were hiding themselves. One poor infant, of about nine months,, 
had two frightful gashes on the head, and had one toe cut off. 

Most of them had lance-thrusts about their body; some saber-cuts, 
i saw them one by one, and a more sickening spectacle I seldom 
witnessed, not only from the nature of the wounds, but also f rom. 
the youth and simplicity of the younger ones. 

As regards rumor that any of these attacks were committed by 
Bulgarians, 1 am able to state thai, according to those 1 saw, not one 
such case has occurred. 1 asked all the sufferers one by one> 
separately, if they had been maltreated by any Bulgarian Christian., 
or if they had heard of any such case ; they one and all said not. 

From what all asserted, these cruelties can only be attributed to 
Cossacks, as the perpetrators were all described as " horsemen with 
lances." 

The number of these victims is increasing, as others are brought 
in daily; and from what those 1 saw said, a considerable number 
must have been killed on the spot. 1 have, &c. , 

(Signed) R. Reade. 

List of Wounded Women and Children lying in the Teke, or Dervish 
Mosque, at Shumla, and visited by Consul Reade. 

1. Habibe: a woman aged 25 years. Wounded in the back by a 
lance. 

2. Mehemed: a boy aged 7 years. Wounded in the left thigh by 8. 
lance. Son of No. 1. 

3. Ibrahim: a boy aged 5 years. Wounded on the right thigh by 
a lance; also son of No. 1. 

4. Hava: a woman aged 25. Lance- wound on the head. 



APPENDIX. 



5. Aishej a woman aged 30 years. Arm and head wound by a 
saber : a lance- wound on the breast. 

6. Mehemet: a boy aged 6 years. Stomach pierced by a lance. 
Son of No. 5. 

7. Ante! a woman aged 24. Four saber-cuts on the bead, three 
lance-thrusts on left leg, one on right shoulder, and one right thigh. 
Saber- cut on right hand. 

8. Nazife: a girl aged 15. Saber-cuts on breast and back: lance 
thrust toot and right thigh. 

9. Mustapha: an infant of about 9 months of age. Top of head 
frightfully lacerated by a saber. Toe of right foot cut off. This 
was a sickening spectacle. 

10. Feride: a woman aged 55 years. Right shoulder wounded by 
a lance. Right hand cut off. Lance-wound on back. 

11. Emine: a girl aged 9 years. Three saber-cuts on head and 
one on back. 

12. Muzcie: a girl aged 12 years. Trampled upon by a horse and 
severely wounded. 

13. Feride: a woman aged 40 years. Lance- wound on back. 

14. Mustafa : a boy aged 9 years. Lance- wound on left leg. Son 
of No. 13. 

15. Fatme: a girl aged 12 years. Right thigh wounded by lance. 
Daughter of No. 13. 

16. Gursun: a woman aged 32 years. Lance- wound on back. 

17. Aishe: a girl aged 7 years. Lance- wound on head. 

18. Abiahim: a boy aged 9 years. Saber-cut on head. Lance- 
wounds on forehead and thigh. 

(Signed) R. Reade. 

Shumla, July 22d, 1877. 



APPENDIX VJ1. * 

THE SCHOOLMASTERS IN MASSACRE. 

Consul Dickson to Earl Russell.— (Received May 17th.) 

Stir dfiw*fwri"dl I r ?(?W^SP jH3fr%if«(a-iI ^jmios 

Soukoum Kale, March 17th, 1864. 

1 peel it a painful duty to report a deed that has come to my 
knowledge, which has so exasperated the Circassians as to excite 
them to further resistance, however desperate their case may be. 

A Russian detachment having captured the village of Toobeh on 
the Soobashi River, inhabited by about 100 Abadzeks, and after 
these had surrendered themselves prisoners they were all massacred 
by the Russian troops. AMONG THE VICTIMS WERE TWO 
WOMEN IN AN ADVANCED STATE OF PREGNANCY, 
AIMD FIVE CHILDREN. The detachment in question belongs to 
Count Evdokimoff 's army, and is said to have advanced from the 
Pshish valley. 

As the Russian troops gained ground on the coast, the natives are 
not allowed to remain there on any terms, but are compelled either 
to transier themselves to the plains of Kouban, or emigrate to 
Turkey. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX VIII. 

OUGHT WE TO HAVE SAVED THE CIRCASSIANS? 

Svr H- Bulwer to Earl Russell.— {Received May 20th.) 
tftfT ■ {Extract.) , 

Constantinople. May M, 1364. . 

You are aware of the large and sudden emigration of Circassians 
into the Ottoman dominions. 

The Russian Government has now acquired the territory of that 
brave and devoted race, who have only prized one thing more than 
country— liberty, or at least the life which is free from the domina- 
tion of a foreign foe. They are flying the shores immortalized by 
their defense, and seeking an asylum in a neighboring empire. In 
short, Circassia is gone; what yet remains to SAVE IS THE CIR- 
CASSIANS. 



APPENDIX IX. 

LESSONS IN MASSACRE. 

A Petition from the Circassians forwarded to Earl Russell 
by Sir H. Bulwer, dated Constantinople, April 12th. 1864, 

{Iranslation.) 

Our most humble Petition to Her Magnificent Majesty the Queen 
and Emperor of England is to the effect that: 

It is now more than eighty years since the Russian Government is 
unlawfully striving to subdue and annex to its dominion Circassia, 
which since the creation of the world has been our home and our 
country. It slaughters like sheep the children, helpless women, and 
old men that fall into its hands. It rolls about their heads with the 
bayonet like melons, and there is no act of oppression or cruelty 
which is beyond the pale of civilization and humanity, and which 
defies description, that it has not committed. We have not, from 
father to son, at the cost of our lives and properties, refrained 
from opposing the t3 r rannical acts of that Government in defense of 
our country which is dearer to us than our lives. But during the 
last year or two it has taken advantage of a famine caused'by a 
drought with which the Almighty visited us, as well as by his own 
ravages, and it has occasioned us great distress by its severe attacks 
by sea and land. Many are the lives which have been lost in battle,, 
from hunger in the mountains, from destitution on the sea-coast, 
and from want of skill at sea. 

WE THEREFORE INVOKE THE MEDIATION AND 
PRECIOUS ASSISTANCE OF THE BRITISH GOVERN- 
MENT AND PEOPLE— THE GUARDIAN OF HUMANITY 
AND CENTER OF JUSTICE— IN ORDER TO REPEL THE 
BRUTAL ATTACKS OF THE RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT 



APPENDIX. 



ON OUR COUNTRY AND SAVE OUR COUNTRY AND 
OUR NATION TOGETHER. 

But if it is not possible to afford this help for the preservation of our 
country and race, then we pray to be afforded facilities for removing 
to a place of safety our helpless and miserable children and women 
that are perishing by the brutal attacks of the enemy as well as by 
the effects of famine; and if neither of these two requests are taken 
into consideration, and if in our helpless condition we are" utterly 
annihilated notwithstanding our appeals to the mercy and grace of 
the Governments, then we shall not cease to invoke our right m the 
presence of the Lord of the Universe, of Him who has confided to 
your JMajesty sovereignty, strength, and power for the purpose of 
protecting the weak. 

We beg your Excellency to be the medium of making known to 
the great British Government and to the glorious British nation our 
condition of helplessness and misery, and we have therefore ventured 
to present to your Excellency our most humble petition. A copy of 
it has been submitted to the Sultan's Government and to the Embas- 
sies of the other Powers. 

Signed by the people of Circassia. 
April 9th, 1864. 29 Sheval, 1290. 



APPENDIX X. 

STATEMENT OF THE CIRCASSIAN DEPUTIES IN REFERENCE TO THE 
CRIMEAN WAR. 

We, the undersigned, having been sent from the people of the 
Nectouage and Abaseck, and further commissioned on their behalf 
by the Deputies of the other tribes of Circassia assembled at Con- 
stantinople, to carry to the Sovereigns and to the people of England 
and France the-appeal of our nation, and to speak for our nation, 
and after that appeal has been rejected by the Governments of 
Prance and of England, and we have presented ourselves before 
various assemblies of the English people, from whom we have heard 
kind words, it has then been told to us that there are, among the 
English people, some who say that we are subjects of the Emperor 
of Russia, and others who say that in the time of the war in the 
Crimea the generals of England and France sent to us to require 
troops to aid them in the war, and that we refused to give such 
troops, and therefore it is not proper now for England to help us in 
our distress, or to resist Russia in her violence and aggressions. 
Therefore, we now say that the words so spoken against us are not 
true words, but false ones, and we further declare that any one who 
charges us with such things privately, and who does not bring them 
forward in such a manner that all shall hear and all shall'judge, 
commits an act not worthy of an honest man, and ought not to be 
listened to by honest men. 

It is easy for us to declare that we are a free people, over whom 
no king or emperor, or government, has had any power or authority 
since the world began, or as far back as the memory of man can 
reach, but we do not do so; we only ask what proof those can ad- 
duce who say to the contrary. Let those persons show who the king 



APPEKDIX. 



267 



is who has 'conquered our country; let him tell what taxes the Cir- 
cassian people has paid, or what troops have been raised amongst 
our tribes for the service of a foreign master. This is what no man 
can tell. 

So also let our accusers bring forth the letters, or repeat the words, 
by which any request for aid was made to us in the time of the war 
in the Crimea, and then let him produce the answer given by us, 
refusing that aid or succor, and when he has done so, then he may 
say that we did refuse to join the Allies, but not till then; but no 
such letter can be produced, and if such demand and such answer 
would be produced, it would not on that account follow that the 
injustice of Russia should become security, or that the taking pos- 
session of the BlacK Sea by the cruisers of Russia, to interrupt all 
communication and all traffic, and so to make a war with England, 
as well as Circassia, should become honorable and safe to the Brit- 
ish nation. 

The Circassians are a very small and weak people; they have no 
money, they pay no taxes, they have no government, they have no- 
newspapers", they are ignorant; but this they do know, that many 
years Russia has been fighting against them, and that the thou- 
sands of men she loses in fighting' every year, and the great treas- 
ures she expends every year, is not for the sake of Circassia. All 
our mountains, from the Black Sea to the Caspian, would not be 
worth to Russia, if she possessed them, so much as she expends on 
trying to conquer them in one year of the forty years she has been 
endeavoring to conquer them. 

We therefore know that she is expending her army and her treas- 
ure, not because she wants Circassia, but because she wants India 
and the Ottoman Empire; and, theiefore, do we say to ourselves, it 
is because of Turkey and England that we have to fight night and 
day, that our cattle are carried off, that our houses are buined, and 
that our young men have to die, and our old ones and children and 
women to perish. Why do the Turks and the English not help us; 
why are they the friends of the Russians? 

We will now tell that which happened in the Crimean War. 

It was in the year of your era 1854 that you drew your sword 
against Russia; before then that sword was in the scabbard, butoui 
sword has never been in the seaboard ; peace there never had been 
between the Circassians and Russians, and for thirty-three years 
there had been fierce wars. It was at the end of that time that the 
great nations of Europe went to make war. When we heard this 
we were very happy, and thought that the time was come when we 
might take breath; for we have not only to fight, but also to live; 
but it is very hard for us to live when we have always to fight. We 
said to ourselves, The great nations in whose hands Russia is noth- 
ing are going to stop her and give peace. Now we can plow our 
fields, and pasture our flocks, and rest from our long sufferings. 
Yet many amongst us got ready to help, and when the Russian- 
troops that lay all along from Anapa to Soukum Kaleh with- 
drew and collected together, and reiired north, we also on our 
part followed them; but when they crossed the Kouban they did not 
retire further, but stopped there, and they were in great force, be- 
ing tens of thousands on one bank of the river and we on the other. 



368 



APPENDIX. 



so that neither ventured across to attack. We could not go across 
whilst they were so posted, but when they saw us ready neither 
could they retire so as to go to the Crimea. 

Now, every day we expected that some of the Allies would appear 
behind them, and enable us to do something to destroy them; but 
none came, nor did they send us any succor by the sea; and then we 
saw there was no aid for us. So it was at the end as at the begin- 
ning, and the Allies went away, and, as before, we remained the 
only enemies of Russia. But it was not by sending our horsemen 
into the steppes of Russia or into the Crimea that anything could be 
done to make Russia less powerful or give to us security after the 
peace. 

The Lesghians on the east held a body of 50,000 men ready to fall 
on Tiflis, so soon as word should be sent by the Generals of the En- 
glish or French, or from Constantinople. The people of out coast 
knew very well that what they had to do was to crush the Russian 
armies in the south of the Caucasus, and to restore the people of 
Georgia, G-ouriel, and Imerettia to independence. This was the help 
they looked for in the war which England and .France was making 
against Russia. 

At various times, to the number of seven or eight, on news arriv- 
ing of envoys sent to us, assemblies were called among the Shapsug 
and Nectouage to be ready to hear without delay their proposals, so 
that if any such envoy had come to concert measures with us, such 
as that above described, and which should be within our power to 
attempt and for our benefit to achieve, 25,000 horsemen from these 
tribes alone would have been ready to take the field in a week. Our 
assemblies met and waited in vain; no envoys came; and they dis- 
persed with heavy hearts. 

Then it was that we considered what we ourselves could do, and as 
the Turkish commander in Kars sent no word to us, we determined 
to send word to him; and thereupon an envoy was sent— namely, 
one of the two undersigned now present in London, Hadji Hassan Dy 
name, to offer to Selim Pasha the co-operation of the forces of the 
Circassians, so that whilst we descended from the north they might 
march from the south, and thus crush the Russian power in Georgia, 
rescuing a Christian people from a barbarous yoke. 

This envoy could only reach the Turkish camp by passing through 
the Black Sea in a boat with four oars, and had great difficulty in 
escaping the Russian cruisers. He reached Batun, and then pro- 
ceeded to the Turkish quarters at Uzurget, twenty hours from Kars. 
The Turkish commander was glad to hear his tidings, and the plans 
Were being prepared tor the campaign, when a messenger arrived 
from Constantinople. The Pasha read the dispatch which he had 
received; he did not say what it contained, but with tears in his 
eyes exclaimed: We are betrayed!" The Circassian envoy under- 
stood that the Governments of France and England would not allow 
the Russians to be attacked where they could be really injured, so 
he returned to his own country. After the Russian army had been 
thus saved from destruction, Kars itself became their prey. 

Whilst the war was going on in the Crimea, variouB Turks came 
from Constantinople; they called themselves envoy), and every one 




APPENDIX. 



269 



had a different story; but they never came amongst the Circassians, 
they all stayed at Anapa and Soukuni Kaleh, the posts abandoned 
by the Russians. 

There also came from the English and French, consuls and envoys, 
and captains of ships, and they also said one thing and another; one 
saying that he had authority, and another saying he had authority; 
and then they talked to the Turks, and the Turks talked to them, 
but never came to the Circassians, but, like the Turks, remained at 
Anapa and Soukum Kaleh; whilst we were looking for men to pro- 
pose to our tribes measures of war, and to bring from their count- 
less hosts troops, artillery, and ammunition, to help in the war we 
were waging against Kussia, and had been waging for generations 
past. 

We have since heard that at Anapa and Soukum Kaleh many 
conversations took place; we have heard that between the Europeans 
and the Turks, and some Circassians, men who have no autkority 
to act on behalf of the people, that it was said that the European 
generals wanted a large army of Circassians to leave their country to 
embark on the sea, and fight in the Crimea. Such things could 
never have been spoken in an assembly of Cii cassians, for the long 
time which they have resisted Russia shows that they are men who 
know how war is to be made. If such things had been proposed 
in an assembly of Circassians, our people would have answered, 
44 That is not the way 1o injure Russia, that is not the way to pro- 
tect Circassia, that is the way only to destroy your own armies." 
But such proposals were never made to us, for we are a free people, 
and nothing is done in secret. We have no Minister, as the people 
of England have. Our warriors fight, not because they are paid, 
but because they have hearts, and when, anything is proposed to us, 
then a meeting must be held. Messengers go forth, and many thou- 
sand people are collected together, sometimes 5,000 and sometimes 
20,000, and they give ear to what is said to them, and when they 
have understood it, they appoint twenty or thirty of riie wise men 
and elders, who consult apart, and after that tell the people, and it 
is only when the people say Yes to what is consulted that the an- 
swer is given. Then all are willing to do what all have understood 
and all consented to. But amongst our people there is not one who 
would have consented to go to the Crimea, while every man would 
have been ready to march on Tiflis and save Kars. So that it ap- 
pears to us that no msssage came from the French and English com- 
manders to attack Tiflis, for the same reason that the Russians re- 
mained on the Kouban instead of retiring into the Crimea. If our 
troops had not been detained on the Kouban, we ourselves would 
have tacked Tiflis without the aid of the Allies or the co-operation 
of the Turks. 

We have also learned that when the envoys of England and 
France at Anapa and Soukum Kaleh said that we should send our 
forces to the Crimea, the Turkish envoys and other persons replied 
to t hem that such proposals could not be made unless the Allies 
engaged to secure our independence at a peace, and that this was 
the first word that had to be spoKen on the matter; but these envoys 
would not allow such a word to be spoken either first or last. 

Now, what advantage have we gained from this war in the 



270 



APPENDIX. 



Crimea? That war is over seven years ago, and we have been fight- 
ing ever since! 

YOU MAKE A TREATY OF PEACE TO OPEN THE 
SEA. THE SEA IS NOT OPEN. Had the undersigned been 
taken by the Russian vessels in coming to England we snould have 
been sent to the mines of Siberia, and we know that we, the under- 
signed, are in all cases devoted to death because we have come here. 

YOUR ARMIES HAVE BEEN IN THE CRIMEA, WHAT 
BENEFIT HAS COME TO THE CR1M TARTARS? DID 
YOU RESTORE TO THEM THEIR COUNTRY? NO, YOU 
GAVE IT BACK TO RUSSIA. 

WHAT BENEFIT DID THE TURKS GET FROM YOUR 
WAR? You made your enemy pay none of the expenses, and 
YOU ONLY DEPRIVED THE TURKS OF THEIR VIC 
TORIES. 

THE POLES did go to the Crimea, and WHAT BENEFIT 
did THEY GET FROM THAT WAR? 

Did we too not help you? Did we not keep in check 100,000 
men? Is Russia not sore and weak by the many years she has been 
fighting with us. If we did not prefer independence to slavery, 
would not 100,000 of our men be in her ranks? If we were not 
engaged in defending our country, would not the Russian frontier 
be at Batun? 

WHY DO WE SUFFER FROM THIS WAR? Is it not 
because RUSSIA WANTS TO BE MISTRESS OF INDIA 
and MISTRESS OF CONSTANTINOPLE? If you wait till her 
ends are gained it will be too late to get aid from us. If you do not 
give us to-day a favorable reply, we must go back to our people and 
tell them that the English»people are joined with Russia, so that 
what Russia could not effect by her arms some people in England 
will have effected by their calumnies. 

All these things we tell you. If you wish to be sure of the truth, 
make an asse'mbly, as we do, and we will prove them. If you make 
no such assembly you have no right to say them. From Europe or 
from England no help has come to us. We have heard that if there 
was -justice to be found it was in England ; we came then to Eng- 
land, weak and poor, expecting to find justice from you. 

(Signed) Hadji Hayden Hassan. 

Kustar Ogli Ismael. 



APPENDIX XL 

HOLY RUSSIA AND THE CURSED CRESCENT. 
BY A. CLEVELAND COXE,* 

Bishop of the Western Diocese of New York. 

Tbtjmp of the Lord, 1 hear it blow; 
Forward the cross; the world shall know 

* I extract these lines from an American paper, which declares that they 
were written by the Prelate in question. To the best of my belief the Bishop 
has not denied the statement nor the sentiments which the verses express.— 
F. B. 



APPENDIX. 



Jehovah's arms against the foe, 
Down shall the cursed crescent go. 
To arms! To arms! 

God wills it so. 

God help the Russians— God bless the Tzar, 
Shame on the swords that trade can mar, 
Shame on the laggards, faint and tar, 
That rise not to the Holy war. 
To arms ! To arms ! 

The Cross and Tzar. 

How long, O Lord, for Thou art just, 
Vengeance is Thine, in Thee we trust? 
Wake, arm of God, and dash to dust 
Those hordes of rapine and of lust. 
To arms! To arms! 

Wake swords that rust. 

Forward the Cross. Break, clouds of Ire, 
Break with the thunder and the fiie, 
To new Crusades let Faith inspire, 
Down with the crescent to the mire. 
To arms ! To arms ! 

To vengeance dire. 

Ike Bishop answered by Mr. W. Croffut. 

Thou Man of God, who thus implore 
Thy brother's sacred blood to pour 
In hateful tides of turbid gore, 
From Dardanelles to Danube's shore. 
Be still! Be still! 

Blaspheme no more. 

God help the babes, God bless the wives; 
Shame on the priests that whet the knives, 
Shame on the Church whose altar thrives 
By wrecking peaceful peasants' lives. 
Be still! Be still!' 

'Tis hell that driveB. 

How long, O Lord, before Thy shrine 
Shall men pray Vengeance, God, is Thine, 
Then worship Moloch as divine, 
And drink the battle's bloody wine? 
Be still! Be still! 

O heart of mine. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX Xll. 

the corruption of armenian officials. 

Report of Mr. Taylor to Her Majesty's Government with 
reference to the corruption of armenian officials its 
his (the Erzerofm) District. 

Christians.— The different sects into which the Christians are 
divided in the Erzeroum Yilayet are : 



Gregorian Armenians ..... 287,700 

Nestorians . . . . . . .110,000 

Aimenian Catholics . . . . 8,000 

Orthodox Greeks ...... 4,000 

Protestants (natives) ..... 1,300 

Total 411,000 



Armenians.— The advice and ostentatious leaning toward Russia 
of the Armenian clergy in my district, headed by the Catiiolicos re- 
siding at Etchmiazin in Russia, and his bishops in these parts, have 
naturally enough inclined the more ignorant members of their 
flocks— rich and poor— to adopt the same views; and considering 
also that a whole Christian house of ten souls in Russia pays only, 
for all taxes, 9 roubles (£1. 10s.) annually as against three times the 
sum here, if there has not been a general emigration, it is simply 
owing to the fact that disposable arable lands in Russian Armenia 
are scarce, while the reverse prevails in Turkey. 

Everywhere throughout these districts I found the Armenians 
bitter in the complaints against the Turkish Government, at the 
same time tbat they were unreserved in their praises of Russia, 
openly avowing their determination to emigrate. This bias is 
owing, as already stated, to the constant hostile teaching of their 
clergy; at the same time, ample cause for discontent, as has already 
been shown further back, is afforded by the really wretched system 
of Turkish provincial administration, the unequal imposition of 
taxes, scandalous method of levying them and the tithes, persistent 
denial or miscarriage of justice, and practical disvaowal to the Chris- 
tians' claim to be treated with the same consideration and respect 
as their equals among Moslems. But experience" has taught me 
that which candor and strict impartiality compel me to state, that 
the subordinate officers of the local government are aided and abet- 
ted in their disgraceful proceedings, or encouraged in persistent in- 
difference to crying wrongs, as well by the criminal assistance as 
willful apathy or silence of the Armenian Medjliss members, 
ostensibly elected by the suffrages of their co-religionists to guard 
their interests. Unfortunately, then, as the evil lies as much with 
the Christians as the Turks, under existing regulations there is no 



APPEHDIX. 



remedy for it, and there can be none till the local authorities really 
see for themselves that the Porte's orders are really carried out, and 
to open the way for the introduction of a higher class of people for such 
employments. As it is, no man of wealth, influence, or character will 
accept a seat in any one of the Councils; he will not waste time in 
attending to official duties in a place where he has to put up -with 
the contumely and impertinent insults of (he Moslem members, all 
which are patiently borne by the fawning and obsequious Chris- 
tians whose living depends upon this appointment. And even were 
a man of character and ability to accept a nomination at the hands 
of his community, the Pasha, with whom, in fact, the fate of such 
elections lie, as he has the power of rejection, would always prefer 
a needy, pliant member to one whose riches and position would 
place him beyond the reach of his menaces or influence. The in- 
terests of the community are consequently intrusted to the specu- 
lators accustomed to the atmosphere of the Serai in their capacity 
of revenue farmers, or Seraffs, who in such positions have, in 
addition to their own disgusting servility, all the chicanery and vices 
of Turkish officials— acquired a dangerous influence, either as the 
partners or creditors of the chief provincial officers. Such an influ- 
ence might be meritorious and useful if exercised in the interests of 
justice and duty, but it becomes a downright evil when practiced, 
as it always is, for their ovsn benefit or that of their partners in 
corruption, and scarcely ever for their brethern. The claims of the 
poor are either neglected or betrayed, and those of the rich depend 
upon the amount of their presents or degree of their sycophancy. 
The Armenian clergy and head men, on their part, purposely ignor- 
ing the villainous conduct of their Medjliss members representing 
the repeated failures of justice that inevitably result as due to the 
fanaticism or imbecility of a government determined to ignore all just 
claims, exaggerate actual facts; the more readily to induce their 
dependents to adopt the disloyal views they propagate. As they 
pursue such intrigues, apparently unchecked, and with the secret 
approval of Russian agents, wavering members, formerly content 
with or resigned to their lot, openly express disaffection and traitor- 
ous ideas. 



APPENDIX Xlll. 

FEMALE BEI6AKDA6E. 

Millingen remarks in " Wild Life Amongst the Koords 
Amongst the many acts of brigandage of which the Koords are 
guilty, a peculiar kind of highway robbery must here be statefl, 
which is probably unparalleled. The culprits, the brigands, are in 
this case young women, who set out on plundering pursuits in order 
to turn a dishonest penny. A troop of fair bandits take up a station 
at the side of the road, there patiently to await for the arrival of the 
doomed traveler. As soon as the vedettes announce his approach, 
the fair troop starts off to meet him, welcoming him with dances 
and with fiery glances of irresistible power. He is compelled to stop, 
as a matter of course, and the fair maids then politely request him 
to alight. No sooner has the bewildered victim put his feet on the 



APPENDIX. 



ground than he finds himself at close quarters with the whole troop. 
Immediately he is stripped of all he has on his back, and is left in 
that primitive state in which Adam was at one time. Then begins 
a series of dances and fascinating gestures in the style of those per- 
formed by the maids at the Lupercalian games, the object ol which 
is to make the unfortunate victim lose his self-control. An at- 
tempt, however, on the part of the victim to reciprocate the ad- 
vances of his alluring tyrants, becomes instantly fatal. The troop 
get hold of him in a summary way, declare him to have made at- 
tempts on the virtue of the fair maids, and condemn him to be 
pricked with thorns upon a very sensitive,part oi his person. These 
dances and the flagellations, which serve as entr'acts, are repeated 
several times over, till the sufferer, exhausted and bleeding, is nearly 
in a fainting condition. Then the fern ale- troop of bandits drag the 
wretched traveler before a court of matrons, which holds its sittings 
somewhere in the neighborhood. There a charge of attempting a 
criminal assault is brought against the pretended culprit, who not 
only receives a good dose of upbraiding, but is also condemned to 
pay a fine. 

APPENDIX XIV. 

THE BOUTES WHICH TRAVERSE ASIA MINOR, AND THE EUPHRATES 
AND TIGRIS. 

The routes which traverse Asia Minor and cross the Euphrates 
and Tigris commence at Constantinople on the Bosphorus", or at 
Smyrna on the JSgean Sea, and meet upon the plateau of Asia 
Minor. 

Of these routes the chief are — The Erzeroum and Tabriz; the 
Diarbekir and Mosul; the Aleppo and Bagdad. On leaving Con- 
stantinople, the Bosphorus is crossed; the road then leads along the 
coast of the Propontus, from Scutari to Gebiseh, the ancient Lybissa, 
and where the tomb of Hannibal can be seen ; then beside the 
Astacenian Gulf, from Gebiseh to Nicomedia (Ismid). Here the 
three routes separate. 

The Erzeroum road leads eastward, and parallel to the coast of 
the Black Sea. 

The Diarbekir route cuts Asia Minor longitudinally, and descends 
into the valley of the Euphrates toward Malatia. The Aleppo road 
cuts it obliquely, and descends upon the shores of the Mediterranean 
near Tarsus. 

The Erzeroum route crosses the Sakaria toward its mouth, be- 
tween Sabanja and Khanda, leads by the villages of Dusdscheh or 
Murderli to the town of Boli, situated near the ruins of Hadrianopo- 
lis; beyond Boli the road is very hilly; it then traverses the towns of 
Gerideh and Hamanli, and descends with the waters of the Parthenius 
to the little town of Tcherkis. Tcherkis is at the junction of the 
Trebizond and Tokat route. The Trebizond route ascends more to 
the north, crosses the mountains which separate the basin of the 
Parthenius from that of the Halys, and descends with an affluent of 
the Harys to Kastamuni, and from there, by Tach-kupri, to the town 
of Voyavat. 



APPENDIX. 



275 



Tach-kupri is built on the site of Pompeiopolis, and Voyavat in a 
fertile plain, at the foot of a height crowned by an old citadel. 
Voyavat is an important position, because it is at the intersection of 
the Sinope and Trebizond route. 

The Sinope route turns to the north, and leads through a very 
rich and undulating country. This is one of the most fertile dis- 
tricts in Asia Minor. 

The Trebizond route leads eastward, passes the Halys near Vizir 
Kupri, and, after numerous ascents and descents, issues beside a 
watercourse in a bay surrrounded by olive-trees. Here is the town 
of Samsoun. It then leads along the coast of the Black Sea, crosses 
the Iris near Tcharchembeh, and the Thermadon near Thernieh; 
and leaving the little town of Unieh to the left and on Ihe sea-shore, 
it goes by Fatsa, Ordau, and Kerasun to Tripoli; from there, after 
turning the bay of Platana, it leads to Trebizond, 

The Tokat road bends more to the south after leaving Tcherkisj 
it crosses the mountains which border the basin of the Parthenius 
near Karadicur, and descends by Kodia Hissar to the town of Tusia 
upon the Halys. It next traverses the river near Hadjii Hamzeh or 
Osmanjik, and, after passing Marsivan, crosses the western affluent 
of the Iris at Amasia; from here it goes by Turkhal to Tokat. The 
direct route from Tokat to Erzeroum eastward goes from Tokat or 
from Turkhal to Niksai, on the Lycus, the eastern affluent of the 
Iris; and continuing by this affluent to Kara Hissar, it ascends near 
tne villages of Kerkif or Loiri, the mountains which separate the 
waters of the Black Sea from the Euphrates, and descends into the 
plain of Erzeroum near Vi jan. 

There is another road from Constantinople to Sivas. This is the 
regular Angora track; it leaves the Trebizond route at Nicomedia, 
crosses the Sakaria near Geiweh; and f ollowing the chord of the arc 
which this river describes as it descends from" the plateau of Asia 
Minor, leads by the little towns of Terekli and Torbali to Nalihan, 
near the ruins of Gordium; after which it ascends by the little town 
of Bei Bazar on to the Angora plateau. This plateau is one of the 
points which dominate Asia Minor; hence the reason why formerly 
so much importance was attached to the fortiess of Gordium. The 
road then leads by the village, of Bei Bazar, or by Tabadji, on to a 
iidge of mountains which separate the basin of the Sakaria'from that 
of the Halys, and descends by the village of Akserai to the latter of 
these rivers. The stream is crossed either at a ford or on a raft, and 
the route goes by the villages of Sangor and Osman Koi to the town 
of Yuzgat; the chief seat of the family Tchapan Oglou,* formerly 
one of the most powerful in Asia Minor. Yuzgat is an important 
position, because it is at the junction of the two routes fiom Tokat 
and Csesarea. The first leads to the east and crossing the mountains 
which separate tne basin of the Halys from that of the Iris, it de- 
bouches through a deep ravine on to the lofty plateau of Zela, cele- 
brated for Caesar's victory over Pharnaces; from here it descends 
and slopes gently down to the "Western iris, near Tokat. The 
Caesarea route turns to the south after leaving Yuzgat, and leading 

* Daravish Bey is the last of that celebrated family. He is nearly ruined 
owing to some dealings with an Armenian usurer. 



276 



APPENDIX. 



by the villages of Ingourli, Kislan, and Boghazlayan, recrosses the 
Halys near Emlar after which it goes by Erkelet (Hicklar) to 

Caesarea. - •:U:m;A.oJ $n 

Another route leads by Angora to Caesarea, and from Caesarea to 
Malatia, in the valley of the Euphrates. It is the route from Con- 
stantinople to Diarbekir and to Mosul. After leaving Nicomedia 
(Ismid) it turns south, ascends the mountains - which separate the 
Astecenian from the Cianean Gulf, and descends to Lake Ascanius, 
near Nicea; then turning eastward, and passing alongside Mount 
Otympus, it crosses the Gallus at Lefke (Louka) near its junction 
with the Sakaria; then ascending this river along its left bank as 
far as Zugud (Sogkat), it crosses the Thymbrius^near Eski-Shehr, 
the ancient Doryleum, situated in the middle of a vast and bare 
plain. The road now rises insensibly by Sidi Ghazi and Sever His- 
sar to the Angora plateau. This is the easiest route to go from Kico- 
media to the plateau of Asia Minor. It follows the watercourees. 

Two routes lead from Angora to Csesarea. One crosses the Halys 
near the village of Kara Keni, from whence it ascends the river 
along its right bank to the little town of Mandjour, where its two 
principal affluents unite. Then crossing the eastern affluent, be- 
tween the villages of Tchalik and Ambar, the route leads to the foot 
of Mount Argea toward Caesarea. The other road borders the eastern 
plateau of Asia Minor; and ascending the Halys along its right bank 
passes the eastern affluent of this river above Mandjour; from here 
the route goes to Caesarea, across a vast plain destitute of trees. It 
is the easiest road, but there are no habitations, and provisions are 
very scarce in this direction. 

Csesarea is a branching point for all the routes which cross the 
Euphrates^ or which desceend from the plateau of Asia Minor to the 
littoral of Cilicia. One of these routes leads to Sivas another to 
Diarbekir, a third to Aintab, and a f ourth to Adana and Tarsus. 
The first leads in a north-easterly direction, and ascends the eastern 
affluent of the Halys from Emlar to Sivas ; this is the easiest route 
by which to ascend to the plateau of Armenia. The road from 
Angora by Tokat to Sivas is the shortest. It is best provided with 
provisions; but the route by Caesarea is less broken and more acces- 
sible for artillery. The route from Caesarea to Diarbekir leads east- 
ward along the Melas till that river joins the Euphrates below 
Malatia. The river is then crossed in a ferry-boat at the village of 
Teis Oglan, and the road continues by the little town of Kharput to 
a chain of mountains which unite Mount Taurus to Mount Niphates. 
It descends with the principal affluent of the Tigris to Maiden, and 
from Maiden goes to the town of Arghana; from here it leads along- 
side this river to jjiarbekir, and from Diarbekir goes by Djesire to 
Mosul. 

The road from Caesarea to Aintab leads in a south-easterly direc- 
tion, traverses one of the chains which unite Mount Argea to the 
southern branch of Mount Taurus, and descends by the village of 
Garrin into the valley of El Bostan, toward the sources of the 
Sourus. The valley of El Bostan, although very high, is fertile, 
and planted with fiuit trees. El Bostan is the branching point of 
three routes which lead— one to' Samozate, another to Aintab, and 
the third to Marash. The first route turns to the east of Mount 



APPENDIX. 



27? 



AmaDus and descends with an affluent of the Euphrates to Saino- 
zate; the second crosses the mountain, descends by a profound rav- 
ine to Aintab and leads from Aintab to A.leppo alongside the Chalus. 
The third turns Mount Amanus on the west, and descends with the 
Pyramus to the little town of Marash, and from Marash goes to the 
village of Messis, on the gulf Alexandretta. 

The most frequented route from Csesarea to Alexandretta is via 
Adana or Tarsus. This route leads to the south, turns Mount Argea 
toward the west, ana goes by Endjazou, the ancient Castabale, and 
by Kara llissar, the ancient Cybistra, to Yenji Bar, probably the 
ancient Nora; from here it ascends to the high plain of Nigdeh, 
which is watered, like El Bostan, by an affluent of the Sams. It 
descends from Nigdeh to Ketch Hissar, called Dana by Xenophon, 
an important position, because it is at the intersection of the two 
routes of C*esarea and Koniah; from there the ioad leads by the vil- 
lage of Tchikisla into a deep and winding gorge, hollowed out in the 
slopes of Mount Taurus, and where the different affluents of the 
Sarus unite together. From here the route debouches by the vil- 
lage of Abi Cheik into the great plain of Cilicia, on one side of 
which is Tarsus, and on the other Adana. In leaving the defile 
above mentioned, the road branches to the right for Tarsus and 
to the left to Adana, and from Adana goes to Alexandretta, 
The best-known route from Constantinople to Syria is that of 
Koniah. It traverses the western border of the plateau of Asia 
Minor, and cuts the peninsula obliquely from the northwest to 
the southeast. This route, leaving the road to Angora, at Nicea, 
and ascending those branches of Mount Olympus which bound Lake 
Ascanius on the south, descends to the little town of Yeni Cheer, 
where the two routes from Brusa and Kiutayah cross. The first 
turns to the west and leads to Brusa; it passes by Mount Olympus, 
on the north. The second turns southward, and passing by Mount 
Olympus on the east, goes to the town of Ainegol (Yeni Ghoul), 
toward the sources of the Gall us, and from Ainegol leads by the 
village of Turbah to the town of Kiutayah upon the Thymbrius. It 
then ascends by the Thymbrius to its sources toward the village of 
Altyn Tash, and finally reaches the plateau of Afiun Kara Hissar, 
bounded on the west by the western chain of the Taurus, and on the 
east by a ran^e of little lakes which almost touch each other, and 
which extend toward the south to the environs of Koniah. This 
plateau is very high. It is separated from the central plateau of 
Asia Minor by a series of hills, which are crowned toward the south 
by the Baba Dagh (mountain). The route passes between two chains 
of mountains, and leads by Bulwadin, built upon the side of Dynia, 
and by Isaklou to Ak-Shehr. This little town is situated in a well- 
watered plain, at the foot of a mountain covered with vegetation, 
and about six miles from a lake wnich bounds the plain on the east. 
The route leaves all the lakes to the left, and goes by Ilgyn and 
Kadoun Khan to the village of Hi Ladik, built upon the ruins of 
Laodicea Combusta; from here it is a ten hours' march to Koniah, 
the road leading there at the foot of the mountains which bound the 
plateau of Asia Minor on the south, and which rise gradually to the 
southern chain of Mount Taurus. 

The most frequented route from Koniah is that which leads by 



278 



APPENDIX. 



Tarsus or by Adana to Alexandretta. It is the route from Smyrna 
and Constantinople to Aleppo and Bagdad. It is the route of Anti- 
och, Palmyra, and Babylon. It, is the route of all (.he conquerors. 

This route, when it leaves the plain of Koniah, turns the Kara 
Dagh (mountain) toward the north; goes by the villages of Jsmil, of 
Geiweh, and Hartan to Erekli; and after joining with the Csesarea 
route and below Ketch Hissar descends with the liver Sarus toward 
the village of Tchikisla, and issues from a deep gorge of Mount 
Taurus into the great plain of Cilicia. 

The Alexandretta route cuts the plain obliquely; leaving Tarsus 
to the right, it passes the Sarus at Adana, thePyramusat the village 
of Messis, three miles from this vilJage enters a cleft in the mount- 
ains which border the gulf of Alexandretta; from here it debouches 
into a fertile but desert plain, nine miles long, from three to four 
wide, and surrounded on all sides by arid mountains. There is an 
exit toward the east, and after a difficult march for an hour, the 
route descends to the ruined town of Kartanleii, which is now in- 
habited in the winter by some Turcoman tribes. Kartanleh is situ- 
ated at the edge of a plateau, or rather a terrace, about three miles 
long, and bordered on its eastern extremity by some black rocks. 
They approach each other very closely. The passage is excessively 
narrow. The defile gradually becomes wider, and a mile further it 
debouches on to a little plain about two miles long and one mile 
broad, bounded on the south by the gulf of Alexandretta, on the 
east by a vast marsh, and on the north by a chain of heights, which 
rise gradually to Mount Amanus. Ayas is at the foot of these 
heights, and about one mile from the sea. Ihe road now turns 
south, leads for some time along a sandy shore, and then crosses a 
little mountain torrent which flows into the marsh, and which some 
travelers have taken to be the Carsus of Xenophon; others, the 
Pinarus of Arrien. After having passed the torrent and rounded 
the gulf, the road leaves the shore and rises gradually to Pias, situ- 
ated like Ayas a little distance from the sea, and at the foot of some 
heights which keep on ascending till they culminate in Mount 
Amanus. Pias is twenty-six miles from Ayas, sixteen from Alex- 
andretta, and at the southeastern angle of a bay. Its shore is more 
easily approached than that of Ayas; troops could be easily disem- 
barked here. It is the most vulnerable point of the coast. From 
Pias, as from Alexandretta, it is only three marches to the plateau 
of Antioch, a dominating point and the key to Syria. 

The Aleppo route leaves the sea at Alexandretta, and turning 
southeast ascends through a deep gorge to Beylan. From here it 
leads over some mountains which bound the gulf on the east, and 
which unite the Taurus to the Syrian chain. The route then de- 
scends to the plain of Antioch. The road here branches. One 
branch leads by some mountains, which are on the north, to Killis 
and Aintab; it then crosses the Euphrates at Kum Kalch, the ancient 
Zeugma. The other branch cuts the plain of Antioch from the north 
to the south, passes the Orontes beneath the walls of the town, and, 
turning to the east, crosses, the Chalus beneath Aleppo. 

Aleppo is at the junction of two roads which cross the Euphrates 
— the one at Bir, in taking a north-eastern course, the other at Ker- 
kisieh or Anah, in leading toward the south-east. The first is the 



APPENDIX. 



279 



Mosul, and (he second the Bagdad route through Babylonia and the 
desert. The Mosul route, after leaving Aleppo, ascends to a bare 
plain, traversed by two affluents of the Sadjour, which fall into the 
Euphrates near the ruins of Hierapolis. The first station is at the 
village of Hardaran. The road then leads across two affluents of 
the Sadjour, and goes through olive-gardens to the Euphrates, which 
is crossed at a ferry near Bir. It would be very difficult to ford the 
river at this point. After leaving Bir the road passes over two chains 
of calcareous hills, between which is a pretty valley, covered with 
fruit-trees. It descends from the second chain by a steep path, 
which is paved with big stones, and is cut in several places out of 
the rock. 

Urfa, the ancient Edessa, is situated in a valley between two hills, 
which are separated from the Tauric chain and united to a series of 
other hills which cut like a curtain the vast plain of Mesopotamia. 

From Urfa to Mosul there are two routes: one, more to the north 
than the other joins the Samozate road toward Severek, and, cross- 
ing one of the heights of Mount Masius, descends with an affluent 
of the Tigris to Diabekir. It goes from here by Djesireh to Mosul. 
It is a difficult route, but the only one where provisions can be met 
with. The other route ascends in the direction of the sources of the 
Khaboras, follows the chord of the arc which forms the Tauric 
chain from Severek to Mardin, leads fromMardin to IN isibin through 
a cultivated plain watered by the Mygdonius, and goes from Nisibe 
to Mosul through an uncultivated district, which extends from tlie 
foot of the Tauric chain to the mountain of Singare. There is noth- 
ing to stop an army marching along this route save the scarcity of 
provisions. It is the best road for cavalry. The other one would 
be more convenient for infantry. Two roads lead from Mosul to 
Bagdad. One passes along the right bank of the Tigris, and the 
other the left. The first passes by Tekrit and across the desert— the 
second by Arbeles and through ancient Assyria. This last route is 
the longest. It leaves the river, to avoid some hills which border 
the left bank; but it is the only road where cultivated lands, and 
provisions can be found. Leaving Mosul, it crosses the Tigris upon 
a bridge of boats, and passes in succession the Bumadus and the 
Zabus, six miles apart, the one from the other. The plain between 
the two rivers is elevated, and is undulating toward the north-east; 
but it sinks and becomes flat toward the south-west, in the direction 
of the angle where the two rivers meet. From the ford where the 
road crosses the Zabus, it is only twenty -seven miles to Arbeles, 
which rises like an island in the midst of the most beautiful plain of 
Assyria. The road undulates slightly, and the position is a favora- 
ble one for maneuvering an army. On leaving Arbeles, the route 
descends beside a small watercourse to Altyn-Kupri. Here the 
Caprus is crossed upon a stone bridge. The little town of Scherzour, 
at the foot of the Median chain, is on the left of the route, and it 
continues by Kerkut and Daour toward the villages of Kifri and 
Kara Tape in the plain of Bagdad. 

The direct route from Aleppo to Bagdad leads in a south-easterly 
direction. After leaving the plain of Aleppo, it passes through a 
long valley closely bordered by two hills. In the middle of the plain 
is the town of Taib. The road now debouches upon the Euphrates 



280 



APPENDIX. 



— on one side toward Racca, the ancient Nicephoriurn, and on the 
other toward the nuns of Tapsaque, at the beginning of a bend 
which the great river makes in its course toward Kerkisieh, the 
ancient Cir cesium. It appears that the ancients crossed the Eu- 
phrates sometimes at one and sometimes at the other of these points. 
At the piesent time the route leads along the right bank to Ana, the 
ancient Ahatho, and to Hit, the ancient iEiopolis. Here the river is 
crossed in a ferry-boat. The road continues along the left bank to 
Anibar, the ancient Perisabour, and to Felujah, which is the point 
where the Euphrates in its windings nearest approaches the Tigris, 
The Babylon and Bagdad routes now separate. The first leads to 
the south, along the Euphrates. Fifteen hours' march brings you 
to Hillah, which is built on the site of Babylon. The other road 
leads eastward; and, after crossing a bare plain which divides the 
two rivers, you arrive in eleven hours at Bagdad. To enter this 
town the river has to be crossed on a bridge of boats. As the crow 
flies, it is only fifty-four miles from Babylon to Bagdad. The route 
leads from south to north. It is a difficult one. There are fissures 
in the ground. They become filled with water during the inunda- 
tions caused by the two rivers. Caravans going from one town to 
the other generally go round by Felujah; this lengthens the road by 
about twenty- one miles. 

The route from Aleppo to Bagdad by the desert and by Babylon 
has this advantage over the Mosul road. It is shorter, because it fol- 
lows the chord, the other following the circumference of the bowr 
but as the ground between Aleppo and Tapsaque is no longer culti- 
vated, and as troops can no longer be accompanied by a flotilla of 
vessels, it is not practicable for an aimy. It is only suited for a 
division of cavalry and for caravans with camels; even then there 
would be a risk of the force perishing from hunger or thirst. The 
long zone which the road traverses, and which loses itself in the 
Arabian desert, is a plain with slight undulations, but they are so- 
slight that a man on horseback could hardly conceal himself. There 
are few plants; you find some wells of petroleum, hardlv any ani- 
mals. There are no birds; everywhere you see a white soil impreg- 
nated with gypsum or salt. 

A few palm and fruit trees announce to the traveler that he has 
arrived at the environs of Bagdad. 

Bagdad is the starting point of two important roads: they lead, 
one to the south of Persia, the other to the north. The first leads to 
the south-east, and passing alongside the foot of the Median chain, 
crosses the Kerah or river of Kirmanchah, the ancient Eulee, near 
the ruins of Suza, and the two branches of the Karoon, the ancient 
Orontes, the one at Dizful, the other at Shustei; from whence the 
route ascends to the plateau of Media, and to Lourkian. It then 
passes the Persian Pyles toward the sources of the Bendemir, or of 
the Persian Araxes, and descends with this river upon the plateau 
of Persia toward Ispahan. 

The second road goes to the north-east, ascends the Diala to Shera- 
ban or Apollonia, from whence it rises by Zar-Zil upon the plateau 
of Media toward Karmanshah. It then passes the defiles of Mount 
Orontes toward Kangawar, and descends to Hamadan. This is the 
ancient route from Ecbatana ? the great route from Turkey to Persia, 



APPENDIX. 



281 



Hamadan is at the intersection ot two roads which lead — the one to 
Ispahan in turning south-east, the other to Teheran in leading north- 

Buck are the different routes, remarks Baron Beaujour, which 
lead from Asia Minor across the Euphrates and Tigris into Asia 
proper. From what has been said, it will be seen that they are re- 
duced to three principal ones — to the Erzeroum and Tabriz, which 
turns the two rivers toward their sources; to the Urfa and Mosul, 
which crosses the rivers in the middle of their course; and to the 
Aleppo and Bagdad, which leads along the Euphrates to Babylon, 
and which passes the Tigris near Bagdad. The first route is im- 
practicable for artillery, the last for infantry. The center road is 
the only one available for a large army; for whilst cavalry and 
artillery could pass by Merdin and Nisibin, infantry penetrating 
from Urfa through the defiles of Severek, into the valley of the 
Tigris, could descend with this river from Diarbekir to Mosul, and 
from Mosul to Bagdad; from here, ascending the Diala, the army 
might continue by the defiles of Mount Zagros on to the plateau of 
Media toward Karmanshah, and from the plateau of Media by the 
defiles of Mount Orontes upon the Persian plateau, toward Ham- 
adan. Master of the Persian plateau, an army could, march toward 
Teheran as far as the foot ot the Tauric chain, continue along this 
chain to Mount Paropamisus, and descend by Kandahar or Cabul 
into the valley of the Indus toward Attok. 

Although this is a long and difficult route, it is not an impractica- 
ble one for an army which has previously conquered the Turks and 
the Persians. 

Means of subsistence can be found everywhere along this road. 
Troops would only meet with opposition from wandering hordes, or 
from people like the Afghans. However, the hordes are mere rob- 
bers. The Afghans would have no chance of victory unless they 
were united amongst themselves. To conquer the Afghans, all that 
would be required would be to fight them in detail. 

Alexander formerly marched along this route. In our own times. 
Napoleon and Paul the First, the two most powerful monarchs in 
Europe, wished to follow it, to attack the English in India. This 
project, the boldest which has been conceived in modern times, 
could only be executed by generous princes, who would like to con- 
quer India, not to keep it, but to civilize the countiy. In the pres- 
ent state of" Europe, India could only be conquered by the Russians, 
who are very little exposed to attacks from other nations. Masters 
of Georgia and of the line of the Araxes, the Russians can turn the 
western side of the Caspian Sea, and penetrate by Casbin upon the 
plateau of Persia, or penetrate by the east and by Bokhara across 
the Oxus and Jaxartes, which are by no means insurmountable ob- 
stacles. 

Baion Beaujoui concludes his remarks upon the subject by saying: 
" This enterprise would be justifiable provided that the attacking 
force had some glorious object in view, such as that of civilizing 
India. The English, who are already masters of the peninsula, cau 
do this last better than the Russians. THE LATTER OUGHT TO 
CIVILIZE THEMSELVES BEFORE THEY THINK OF CIVIL- 
IZING OTHER NATIONS." 



282 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX XV. 

THE MILITARY IMPORTANCE OP SYRIA. 

Baron Beaujour, in his " Voyage Militaire dans l'Empire Otto- 
man," established in 1829, remarks about the military importance 
of Syria as follows : 

Syria has a great military importance. It is on the route from 
Asia to Africa. If the Isthmus of Suez were cut through, Syria 
would acquire a still greater importance. This country is now open; 
art has not defended it on any side; but Nature has defended it on 
the east and south by deserts; on the west by the sea, and on the 
north by a chain of mountains which surround it like a rampart. 
Mount Amanus, which forms this rampart, and which extends from 
the Mediterranean to the Euphrates, dominates Syria; this is the 
reason why the masters of Aleppo and Anticch have always been 
the masters of the rest of the country. All the routes were open to 
them. They could not be arrested on any particular road, because 
each route could be turned by the others. The road from Autioch 
to Jerusalem ascends the Orontes, and traverses the two chains. It 
descends by the Leontes into Coele Syria, by the Jordan into Judea; 
and by the Chrysorrhoas into the plain of Damascus. This route is 
the only one which opens out all the interior of the country. The 
others only open out the littoral. An army can always be stopped 
by a foe who occupies the first-mentioned route. The road from 
Gaza to Laodicea along the coast is only suitable for an army which 
is accompanied by a fleet. The transversal routes of Faifa or Acre 
to Damascus by Nazareth, of Tyre or Sidon to Einesa by Coele Syria 
—from Tripoli to Hamah by Akka, and from Laodicea to Sctiogr 
by Abdama can only conveniently be used by an army which is mis- 
tress of the sea. 

Syria can be attacked from two sides— either through Asia Minor 
or through Egypt. TO ATTACK SYRIA FROM ASIA MINOR, 
MOUNT AMANUS MUST BE PASSED EITHER AT ITS CEN- 
TER NFAR AINTAB, OR AT ITS TWO EXTREMITIES BY 
ZEUGMA OR BY ISSUS. THE rASS BY ZEUGMA IS THE 
EASIEST— TO HOLD THIS PASS IT IS NECESSARY TO BE 
THE MASTER OF THE EUPHRATES. The passage by Aintab 
is more difficult, but it can be turned. An army can descend by sev- 
eral roads from Mount Amanus along the watercourses into the 
plain of Antioch as into the plain of Aleppo. 

An attack by the gulf of Alexandretta is more difficult. This gulf 
is closed by a cordon of mountains which is bent on the seaside like 
a bow. Even if this bow were pierced from one side, it would be 
necessary to pierce it from the other and penetrate into Syria by the 
defile of Beilan, after having entered by that of lssus. Syria is de- 
fended on the Egyptian side by a desert— here there is neither water 
nor grass; but so soon as an army has crossed this desert and taken 
Gaza, it can ascend the coast to Carmel, and if it is mistress of the 
sea can ascend at pleasure by the transversal valley of Esdrelon upon 



APPENDIX. 



283 



the plain of Damascus, or by the transversal valley of Balbeck upon 
the plain to Emesa, which commands the entire valley of theOrontes, 
An army could even ascend the coast to Laodicea, its right support- 
ed on the Lebanon, its left on the sea, and sweep before it the Turks 
dispersed amidst the towns of the littoral, as the wind drives before 
it the dust. It the Turks were to rally in the valley of Coele Syria, 
or in the plain of Damascus, a defeat here would drive them into the 
desert. The Mutualis, Druses, Maronites, Ansaies are not united— 
to conquer them it is sufficient to sow dissension in their ranks; 
even if they were to fight beneath the same standards they could 
never arrest an army in its march. These people know nothing 
about tactics, they are only acquainted with mountain warfare. 
They would never dare to risk themselves in the plain or to sustain 
the shock of a European battalion. All these people are like Arabs; 
they are only fit to rob caravans or to follow an army with the object 
of pillage. 

An attack upon Syria by the littoral of Palestine and Phoenicia 
could only succeed so long as you were mistress of the sea. It 
would be better to attack Syria by sea than from Egypt; but to attack 
Syria by sea one must begin by establishing one's self in the Island 
of Cyprus. Cyprus is to Syria what Zanteis to theMorea; it would 
ser^e as a depot for the army and a harbor for the fleet. Larnaca 
and Famagusta are the most favorable points for naval stations. 
The Syrian coast is too straight, it possesses no good port, nor even 
any good roads. The ports of Laodicea, Tripoli, Beyrout, and 
Sidon are too small. The anchoring roads of Acre, Jaffa, and Gaza 
are too exposed. Alexandretta and Tyre are the sole points where 
an army can be disembarked without danger. This is the reason 
why these two places have always been considered the two keys of 
Syria, on the side of the sea. An attack by Alexandretta has this 
advantage, it separates Syria at once from the rest of Turkey. It 
also has its disadvantages. Depots must be formed on a very un- 
healthy shore. The denies of Mount Rhosus must be passed; here 
there are difficult gorges where a handful of soldiers could resist an 
army. 

An attack by Tyre would be the easiest and the least dangerous. 
The peninsula on which this town is built is now no longer de- 
fended. This peninsula facilitates a descent upon the neighboring 
coast. The surrounding plain is fertile. An army would be thor- 
oughly protected by guarding on one side the defile of Cape Blanc, 
and on the other, that of the valley of the Leontes or of Ccele Syria. 
From this valley an army could "ascend by Balbek to the highest 
point of the Syrian chain. It could dominate the whole country as 
if from the summit of an enormous citadel. This point surmounts 
all the passes, and an army could descend by the Jordan to Jeru- 
salem, by the Chrysorrhoas to Damascus, and by the Orontes to 
Antioch. 

Tyre and Alexandretta are the two most vulnerable points in 
Syria. If history does not recall to the Turks the importance of 
these two towns, Europeans have not forgotten it. Acre and Laodi- 
cea aie the next most important points. In summer an army could 
easily disembark there, and, like Tyre and Alexandretta, they give 
access to the entire country. T he Turks, then, ought to fortify these 



284 



APPENDIX. 



places better, and especially Alexandretta and Tyre, so as to make 
them the principal fortresses in Syria; and not to think so much of 
Aleppo and Damascus, which can be easily defended against the 
Arabs of the desert. 

If Syria is easy to attack— she is equally difficult to conquer. 
Her territory is mountainous. A small army could defend itself for 
a long time against a large force. In Mesopotamia and in Egypt a 
single battle won would be sufficient to reduce the entire country. 
In Syria it -would only enable a foe to occupy a more advanced posi- 
tion, and to march from one valley to another, as from the valley of 
the Orontes to the valley of the Jordan, or from the littoral of Phoe- 
nicia to Palestine; but to march from one of these positions to the 
other it is necessary to pass defiles. If the defenders were masters 
of the tiansversal valleys which unite the littoral with the interior 
of the country—and in particular of the valley of Balbek— no 
enemy could advance a step without encountering obstacles. This 
would protract the war and give the defenders a great advantage. 
Syria, then, is difficult to conquer, but, once conquered, is easy to 
defend. This is the reason why it is so important from a military 
point of view. 



APPENDIX B(XVI). 

SIR JOHN BTJRGOYNE ON THE DEFENSES OP CONSTANTINOPLE. 

The following remarks made by Sir John Burgoyne in his work, 
" Military Opinions," and published in 1859, may not be uninter- 
esting to the reader. Alluding to the events preceding the Crimean 
War the author observes: 

There can be but little doubt that the Turkish force on the frontier 
will be numerically very inferior to that of the Russians. It may be 
stated at about 120,000, while their enemy must be able to dispose 
of at least 200,000 serviceable forces. Under such a state of things 
it is manifest that the best policy for Russia would be to use every 
effort to strike a heavy blow at once, to force the Danube in mass, 
and by rapid and vigorous movements to cut off, or thoroughly de- 
feat the divided hordes of the Turks. In the event of success they 
would push on, so far as their arrangements would allow, toward 
the Balkan. 

When once the Russians are firmly' established on the right; bank 
of the Danube, the Turks must necessarily retire to Shumla and the 
Balkan, and it is to be hoped that this will be effected before the 
detached corps or the flanks shall be too much compromised. The 
first real defense, then, that it would appear could be prudently 
made, would be on the Balkan passes. On the Balkan it is to be 
hoped that the Turkish armies would, by due arrangements, be 
under such great; advantages ol position as to enable them to make 
an obstinate stand. 

Still, the line is long, the passes must be many, and the enemy, 
still numerous, would probably at length establish himself across it; 
but by this time, feeling the effects of the campaign and forward 
movement in such a country, he would find a difficulty in keeping 
together such large bodies, in maintaining their efficiency, and ob- 



APPENDIX. 



285 



taining supplies for them. These difficulties would increase as he 
prolonged the advance. 

It may be considered that at such a period a well-prepared field of 
"battle covering the capital, and whose flanks could not be turned, 
could be relied on for effectually preventing the invader from at- 
taining his great and final object; and there is no doubt but that 
circumstances afford facilities for the arrangement of such a field of 
battle along the line of the Carasu River— from its mouth in the 
Lake of Bujuk Checkmedge, on the Sea of Marmora, to Kara 
Bournu on the Black Sea. The length of this line, from sea to sea, 
is twenty-four or twenty-five miles; but each flank being covered 
by lakes and rivers, would be easily watched and secured, and the 
extent of the real fighting-ground would be, by these features, re- 
duced to nine or ten miles of plain; but with favorable undulations 
affording a good command over the front, and which might be im- 
proved in strength in a most powerful degree by a great develop- 
ment of respectable field-works. One most important advantage to 
be obtained from the occupation of this position would be that it 
covers the entire Bosphorus, and would therefore enable our fleets 
to remain masters of the Black Sea to the last, and preclude the 
enemy from the use of it. 

To apply the resources of this position with effect, two ingredients 
must be available; first, early and energetic measures for intrench- 
ing so great an extent, so as to give it the greatest possible strength; 
and the other, that an adequate force should remain available for its 
occupation and defense. The first would require the application of 
several thousand workmen for several months, and could only be 
effected by the employment of troops, but with an understanding 
that a degree of benefit would be derived from their very first labors, 
which could be progressively improved to the very last moment. 
The second would require 50,000 good troops, or a proportionate in- 
crease in number of such as might be inferior. 

These may appear to be heavy demands, but can scarcely be con- 
sidered so as the main and last stand to prevent the fall of an em- 
pire. The situation of the Dardanelles is detached, but presents far 
greater facilities for its protection, though still requiring consider- 
able means. This is to be effected by occupying powerfully the 
neck of land which connects in the great European Peninsula (the 
old Chersonese or Thrace) with the main land. At about seven 
miles in front of Gallipoli, and near the village of Boulaher, this 
neck is only three miles wide, being the narrowest part, and pre- 
sents at that identical part a position that, duly fortified and garri- 
soned, may be given enormous strength. The whole extent of coast 
round the peninsula in rear of that line would be protected by the 
naval forces. Large means would be required to be applied to the 
preparation of this position within a short time; 4,000 workmen 
would do it in three months, and a garrison of 12,000 good troops 
would be necessary for its defense if properly attached. 

The use of this position, however, would not be solely confined 
to securing the retreat of the fleet, but would be very threatening 
for offensive measures also; it would cover a very extensive district, 
within which might be rapidly collected by sea any force that it 
might be thought advisable at any time to advance, either to the 



286 



APPENDIX. 



front or flank of the invader, with a comparatively short communi- 
cation and secure depots and retreats. It is, in fact, the point that 
would form the best line of operations for any forces acting in alli- 
ance with Turkey, excepting those which would be applied to the 
immediate protection of Constantinople, although the water com- 
munication would be open to the Gulf of Enos, and perhaps up the 
Maritza, the depots, hospitals, reserves, etc., should be established 
on this peninsula. 

To return to the consideration of the defenses for Constantinople. 
A second line has been designed round the city, at only a mile or 
two in advance; the ground is extremely favorable. It would cover 
the whole space from the Sea of Marmora to the Bosphorus, and, 
well intrenched, would be capable of considerable resistance, but it 
has several defects. 1. It can hardly be deemed sufficiently exten- 
sive and influential for the last resort of a great army. 2. It would 
be too near to the city, and the proceedings and feelings of the 
forces would be greatly influenced by tiie tumults, panics, insurrec- 
tions, treacheries, and contusion of the place; so much so, that no 
vigorous defense could be expected from it. 3. It would be con- 
sidered as a last hold, and merely as a point for surrender. 4. It 
would not cover the whole of the Bosphorus, and consequently it 
would necessitate the evacuation of the Black Sea by our fleet. 

On these accounts I attach no value to it, provided the Carasu 
frontier be taken up. If (he disposable force was only from 5,000 
to 12,000 strong, I would recommend its services being exclusively 
engaged to secure the Dardanelles; an additional force of 25,000 
might form a valuable nucleus for the preparation and defense of 
the frontier of the Carasu. If a larger army could be colled ed, it 
would join and act in conjunction with the* Turkish forces in the 
Balkan, for which purpose their best landing-place would be the 
Gulf of Enos, proceeding to Adrianople up the Maritza River; or 
they might act elsewhere, according to the circumstances of the 
times. An idea is suggested that the Russians, on the understand- 
ing of the preparation by the allies, may content themselves with 
remaining in quiet possession of the Principalities, and thus gain an 
absolute advantage. It is not for me, taking in view military opera- 
tions only, to judge of the effect of such a course, further than to 
give an opinion that I am not aware of any military measures that 
it would be desirable to attempt to drive them out without the co- 
operation of Austria. 

The question is rather political than military, but it would appear 
to me that by so doing they would certainly abandon their cause for 
war, and would suffer more in prestige than they would gain in 
substance. 



APPENDIX XVII. 

THE CHEKMAGEB LINES. 

Major-General Mackintosh, in his work, " A Military Tour in 
European Turkey," remarks on the possibility of a winter cam - 
paign, and on the defenses of Constantinople as follows: 

" About the time that 1 visited the Dardanelles 1 made an excur- 



APPENDIX. 



287 



siou from Constantinople into Bulgaria, noting as 1 rode along all 
that appeared of professional interest in the country through which 
I passed. It was the beginning of November when 1 set out, but I 
found the passes of the Balkan quite practicable as regarded snow, 
though this is not always the case at that season. Excepting an oc- 
casional rainy day, 1 traveled agreeably enough over the plains 
on both sides of the mountains. On leaving Constantinople, the 
Adrianople road carried me over a bleak track of undulating coun- 
try resembling our downs, but deeply furrowed in many places with 
steep ravines, and showing few vestiges of habitation beyond an oc- 
casional farm-yard inclosed by a solid wall, and generally contain- 
ing several dwellings and sheds for cattle. These inclosures might 
often serve for posts, but they could hardly resist artillery; although 
there is a method employed in the East of digging outside the wall 
a deep ditch, and throwing the earth up to a certain height against 
it, which would in some degree deaden the fire, at tlie same time 
that the ditch formed by the excavation adds an obstacle compensa- 
ting for the facility which the earth thrown up within would other- 
wise give to an escalade. 

" The road passes at no great distance from the shore of the Sea of 
Marmora, about ten miles from the city walls. I reached the crest 
of one of tiie elevated downs commanding a view of an extensive 
lake, about seven miles in length and two in breadth, bordered with 
marshy land, and stretching from the sea into the country, and in 
the direction of the ridge called tlie Lesser Balkan, which lies to the 
north. The lake is separated from the sea at its south-western ex- 
tremity by a low ledge, not many yards in breadth, traversed by the 
ancient highway, now in a ruinous state, and supported in some 
places on low arches, through which the brackish water passes and 
repasses, according to the direction of the wind between the sea and 
the lake. The causeway could be easily closed artificially, when 
seven miles of country would be rendered unassailable by an enemy; 
for, although boats might navigate these lakes to a certain extent, 
its marshy shores must always render navigation difficult, even if 
such vessels were at hand, which, hitherto, has not been the case. 

" The spot which the Turks call Kuchuk Chekmageeis designated 
by the Franks Ponte Piccolo, to distinguish it from the greater 
bridge crossing the isthmus at Buyuk Chekmagee, or Ponte Grande, 
the second lake, about six miles and a half further on toward Adri- 
anople. 

" The ledge at Ponte Piccolo is about three quarters oi a mile in 
length, but the lake expands very considerably further up, and at 
the distance of four miles is broken into a fork, each branch being 
fed by a stream which flows from the highlands to the north. Pro- 
ceeding over the ledge, a country of heights and valleys, becoming 
bolder to the northward extends for about six or seven miles, when 
the second lake of equal length, but somewhat narrower than the 
first, presents itself, divided like the other from the sea by a narrow 
ledge, supporting a bad causeway, the center of which rests on the 
large bridge above mentioned. From the brow or crest of the 
heights above, which are lower than those at Kuchuk Chekmagee, 
but which command the ledge at a very short distance, a zigzag path 
leads down to the village of Buyuk Chekmagee. Standing at this 



■ 



288 



APPENDIX. 



point, the spectator is immediately impressed with the conviction ot 
the great strength of such a pass, and of its immense utility to Tur- 
key, if turned to proper account; being, as it were, the abutment on 
which the left flank of a fine position rests, covering the capital from 
an enemy in this direction, a capital which, once attained by an hos- 
tile army, would mark, most probably, in its own ruin, the fall of 
the Ottoman Empire in Europe. 

"A recent writer has described the locality as ' that formidable 
position about twenty miles from the capital so celebrated in history, 
where, owing to the nature of the ground, Attila was stayed in his 
march to conquer the Eastern Empire, and where at a later period 
the Huns* were signally defeated by Belisarius.' In reference to 
this statement, however, it must be observed that, as regards the 
advance of Attila, Gibbon especially mentions that he was only ar- 
rested by the city walls of Constantinople, without alluding to any 
position whatever. The following is the passage from Gibbon. 
* The armies of the Eastern Empire were vanquished in three suc- 
cessive engagements, and the progress ot Attila may be traced by 
the fields of battle. The two first on the banks of the Utus, and under 
the walls of Marcianopolis, were fought on the extensive plains be- 
tween the Danube and Mount Haenius. As the Romans were 
pressed by a victorious enemy, they gradually and unskillf ully re- 
tired toward the Chersonesus of Thrace (the peninsula of the Dar- 
danelles), and that narrow peninsula., the last extremity of Ihe land, 
was marked by their third and irreparable defeat. By the destruc- 
tion of their army, Attila acquired the indisputable possession of 
the field. From the Hellespont to Thermopylae and the suburbs of 
Constantinople he ravaged without resistance and without mercy 
the provinces of Thrace and Macedonia. Heracliaf and Constanti- 
nople might perhaps escape this dreadful irruption of the Huns.' 
„ . . . Belisarius is said by the historian to have intrenched him- 
self at Melanthius, about twenty miles from Constantinople, and 
there repulsed seven thousand Bulgarians, by whom he was at- 
tacked." 

Major-General Mackintosh, after having described the shore road 
from Constantinople to the lake, describes the inland road as fol- 
lows: 

" Quitting the city by the gate of Adrianople, and leaving nn the 
right the river Sydaris, vulgarly called the Alibey, which flows 
through a ravine into the Golden Horn, not far from where it re- 
ceives the Barbysis (now called the Kheat-Khaneh-soo), the road 
passes between the two great barracks of Ram ish Chiflik and Daoud 
Pasha, situated about 1 wo miles from the walls where the Turks, 
looking much too near the city for its strongest defenses, formerly 
erected field-works, which, though fallen into decay, might, if re- 
paired, serve as the scene of a last struggle with the enemy. This 
neighborhood is intersected by the subterranean conduits and lofty 
aqueducts which convey water from Kalfas, Ravas-Kioi, and other 
.great reservoirs to Constantinople; and though when I visited them 
they were quite undefended, the Chekmagee lines if erected would 

* Bulgarians. 

t Situated at the modern Erakler, fortj- miles beyond Busuk Chekmagee. 



APPENDIX. 



289 



effectually protect these works. The vast importance of preserving 
them will be understood when it is recollected that Constantinople 
is situated on the extremity of a wedge of land ill-supplied with 
springs or running streams, and in a climate where, at certain 
seasons, there is but little rain for months. Leaving the aque- 
ducts behind, a country is now traversed resembling that on the 
parallel route already described, but in which the heights are 
bolder, and the valleys more abrupt, while small towns and farm- 
houses are of more frequent occurrence, and the supply of water near 
the road is, by means of copious artificial fountains and occasional 
rivers bv which it is crossed, considerably more abundant. This 
highly defensible track extends as far as theChekmagee lines, which 
may be said to run from the two lakes on the Sea of Marmora, nearly 
to the Fort of Kara-bornoo, on the Black Sea, where it has in its front 
the salt lake of Derkos, and the narrow ledge dividing it from the 
sea, which, no doubt, might be easily cut through, so as to admit 
the waters of the Euxine. Our approach to the first of these lines, or 
that nearest Constantinople, is marked, after passing a khan and 
fountain, by the summit of a bold position on the Constantinople 
side of the river, flowing through a deep ravine toward the lesser 
lake, and hence a view is obtained at Kuchuk Chekmagee and the 
neighboring sea. Descending into the ravine, the road, which is 
generally good, crosses the river by a substantial stone bridge, close 
to which is a fountain, and descending the steep bank on the op- 
posite side passes a large walled farm where another position com- 
mences. 

" From tnis point we come on a succession of inferior slopes, dip- 
ping toward the lakes and marshes, each affording a position. 

U One of these, about two miles from the Chatsalda marsh in its 
front, to which it extends, has, in its course, a little to the west of 
the road, a small isolated height, well-suited for a fort or telegraph. 
From this eminence there is an extensive view, embracing the sec- 
ond lake, with its town and isthmus; and several villages occur on 
both sides of the road. This locality is well suited for the encamp- 
ment of troops, being elevated above the marshes, and at the same 
time not far distant from water. 

" Descending the height the road commences the passage of the 
marsh, by a narrow ancient causeway, composed of square blocks 
of stone, often much displaced, and frequently intersected by the 
Kara soo and other streams, over which long stone slabs are placed, 
forming a species of bridge, removable at pleasure, thus adding to 
the other means available here for preventing the advance of an en- 
emy. A similar road leads also from Chatsalda toward Derkos, on 
the Black Sea, a distance of about ten miles, where the right of the 
lines described would rest near the Cape and Fort of Kara-bornoo. 
Chatsalda is also about ten miles from the greater bridge, and fifteen 
or sixteen from the lesser; and, unfortunately, is in front of the 
lines, or it would have formed a good station for a depot, or might 
have been the head quarters of a force during the healthy season of 
the yrar. . . . he country extending from the Sea of Marmora 
to the right of the Chatsalda road is very well secured. Thence to 
the Black Sea the heights become still bolder, and the valley deeper, 
till the road crosses the Lesser Balkan. The course of the river 



290 



APPENDIX. 



Kara-soo lies through one of the ravines peculiar to the country, 
which look like abrupt cracks across the mountain ranges, and of 
this peculiar formation the Bosphorus itself affords the most striking 
example. 

" A third pass to the right leads through the lines by the village 
of K.astana-Kioi„ and a fourth across the heights of the Lesser 
Balkan transversely by a road which leads from it along the shore 
to Midia, joining one from the mouth of the Bosphorus. The 
three last-mentioned roads, as wed as the Chekmagees, could, if 
strengthened by defensive works, be included in a position compara- 
ble with any existing." 

THE END, 



mi 



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330 May Blossom ; or, Between Two Lores. By Mar- 
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345 Madam. By Mrs. Olephant 20 

359 The Water- Witch. By J. Fenimore Cooper 20 

362 The Bride of Lammermoor. By Sir Walter Scott. . 20 

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WHAT IS SAPOLIO? 



It is a solid, 
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which has no 

equal for all cleaning purposes except the laundry. To use it is to value it. 

What will Sapolio do? Why, it will clean paint, make oil-cloths bright, and 
give the floors, tables and shelves a new appearance. 

It will take the grease off the dishes and off the pots and pans. 

You can scour the knives and forks with it, and make the tin things shine 
brightly. The wash basin, the bath-tub. even the greasy kitchen sink, will be 
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OSBINART El>ITION. 



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The following works contained in The Seaside Library, Ordinary Edition, 
are for sale by all newsdealers, or will be sent to any address, postage free, on 
receipt of 13 cents for single numbers, and 25 cents for double numbers, by the 
publisher. Parties ordering by mail toill please order by numbers. 



MRS. ALEXANDER'S WORKS. 

30 Her Dearest Foe 20 

86 The Wooing O't 20 

46 The Heritage of Langdale 20 

370 Ralph Wilton's Weird 10 

400 Which Shall it Be? 20 

532 Maid, Wife, or Widow 10 

1231 The Freres 20 

1259 Valerie's Fate , 10 

1391 Look Before You Leap .20 

1502 The Australian Aunt 10 

1595 The Admiral's Ward 20 

1721 The Executor 20 

1934 Mrs. Vereker's Courier Maid 10 

WILLIAM BLACK'S WORKS. 

13 A Princess of Thule 20 

28 A Daughter ©f Heth 10 

47 In Silk Attire 10 

48 The Strange Adventures of ^ Phaeton 10 

51 Kilmeny 10 



THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.- Ordinary Edition. 



172 The Chevalier de Maison Rouge. 20 

184 The Countess de Charny 20 

188 Nanon , 10 

193 Joseph Balsamo; or, Memoirs of a Physician 20 

194 The Conspirators , 10 

198 Isabel of Bavaria 10 

201 Catherine Blum 10 

223 Beau Tancrede; or, The Marriage Verdict (small type) 10 

997 Beau Tancrede; or, The Marriage Verdict (large type) 20 

. 228 The Regent's Daughter . . . 10 

244 The Three Guardsmen. 20 

268 The Forty-five Guardsmen 20 

276 The Page of the Duke of Savoy , 10 

278 Six Years Later; or, Taking the Bastile 20 

283 Twenty Years After .20 

298 Captain Paul 10 

306 Three Strong Men 10 

318 Ingenue , 10 

331 Adventures of a Marquis. First half 20 

331 Adventures of a Marquis. Second half 20 

342 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. t (small type) 10 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. I. (large type) 20 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. II. (large type) 20 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. III. (large type) 20 

1565 The Mohicans of Paris. Vol. IV. (large type) 20 

344 Ascanio. , 10 

608 The Watchmaker 20 

616 The Two Dianas 20 

622 Andree de Taverney 20 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (1st Series). 20 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (2d Series) 20 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (3d Series) 20 ' 

664 Vicomte de Bragelonne (4th Series) 20 ■ 

688 Chicot, the Jester 20 

849 Doctor Basilius 20 

1452 Salvator : Being the continuation and conclusion of • 1 The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. 1 20 

1452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of "The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. II 20 

1452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of "The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. Ill 20 

B 



THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary Edition. 



1452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. IV 20 

1452 Salvator: Being the continuation and conclusion of "The 

Mohicans of Paris." Vol. V 20 

1561 The Corsican Brothers 10 

1592 Marguerite de Valois. An Historical Romance 20 

F. DU BOISGOBEY'S WORKS. 

709 Old Age of Monsieur Lecoq. Part I 20 

709 Old Age of Monsieur Lecoq. Part II 20 

1062 The Severed Hand (La Main Coupee) 20 

1128 The Crime of the Opera House. First half 20 

1123 The Crime of the Opera House. Second half 20 

1142 The Golden Tress 20 

1225 The Mystery of an Omnibus 20 

1241 The Matapan Affair. First half - . . 20 

1241 The Matapan Affair. Second half. 20 

1307 The Robbery of the Orphans; or, Jean Tourniol's Inherit- 
ance 20 

1856 The Golden Pig (Le Cochon d'Or). Part 1 20 

1356 The Golden Pig. Part II 20 

1432 His Great Revenge. First half 20 

1432 His Great Revenge. Second half 20 

1465 The Privateersman's Legacy. First half 20 

1465 The Privateersman's Legacy. Second half . , 20 

1481 The Ferry-boat (Le Bac) 20 

1534 Satan's Coach (L'Equipage du Diable). First half 20 

1534 Satan's Coach (L'Equipage du Diable). Second half 20 

1550 The Ace of Hearts (L'As de Cceur). First half 20 

1550 The Ace of Hearts (L'As de Cceur). Second half 20 

1602 Marie-Rose; or, The Mystery. First half 20 

1602 Marie- Rose; or, The Mystery. Second half 20 

1717 Sealed Lips 20 

1742 The Coral Pin 30 

1793 Chevalier Casse-Cou. First half 20 

1793 Chevalier Casse-Cou. Second half 20 

1799 The Steel Necklace 30 

1800 Bertha's Secret. First half 20 

1800 Bertha's Secret. Second half , 20 

1841 Merindol. 20 

1842 The Iron Mask. First half 20 

« 



THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary Edition. 



1842 The Iron Mask. Second half. 20 

1874 Piedouche, a French Detective ; 20 

1885 The Sculptor's Daughter. First half 20 

1885 The Sculptor's Daughter. Second half 20 

1886 Zenobie Capitaine. First half . . . . 20 

1886 Zenobie Capitaine. Second half. 20 

1925 Babiole, the Pretty Milliner. First half = 20 

EMILE GABORIAU'S WORKS. 

408 File No. 113 , 20 

465 Monsieur Lecoq. First half j 20 

465 Monsieur Lecoq. Second half 20 

-<476 The Slaves of Paris. First half 20 

476 The Slaves of Paris. Second half 20 

490 Marriage at a Venture 10 

494 The Mystery of Orcival 20 

501 Other People's Money 20 

.509 Within an Inch of His Life '...V. 20 

515 The Widow Lerouge.... . . . . 20 

523 The Clique of Gold. . . .' ) 20 

671 The Count's Secret. Part I. .20 

671 The Count's Secret. Part II 20 

704 Captain Contanceau; or, The Volunteers of 1792 10 

741 The Downward Path; or, A House Built on Sand (La De- 

gringolade). Part 1 20 

741 The Downward Path; or, A House Built on Sand (La De- 

gringolade). Part II 20 

758 The Little Old Man of the Batignolles. 10 

778 The Men of the Bureau .10 

789 Promises of Marriage ; 10 

813 The 13th Hussars. ; .10 

834 A Thousand Francs Reward. 10 

899 Max's Marriage; or, The Vicomte's Choice. 10 

1184 The Marquise de Brinvilliers 20 

MARY CECIL HAY'S WORKS. 

§ The Arundel Motto. .10 

407 The Arundel Motto (in large type) 20 

9 Old Myddelton's Money 10 

427 Old Myddelton's Money (in larg« type) '." 20 

17 Hidden Perils 10 

Jjjt 



THE SEASIDE LIBRAE T. — (himsiry Mttioft. 



484 Hidden Perils (in large type) • * ^ 

23 The Squire's Legacy * 10 

516 The Squire's Legacy (in large type) . 20 

27 Victor and Vanquished . . . . . 20 

29 Nora's Love Test 10 

421 Nora's Love Test (in large type). . . . . ............ » 20 

275 A Shadow on the Threshold . 10 

363 Reaping the Whirlwind .... .... 10 

384 Baek to the Old Home 10 

415 A Dark Inheritance ............. 10 

440 The Sorrow of a Secret, and Lady Carmichaei's Will. . & U 10 

686 Brenda Yorke . 10 

724 For Her Dear Sake . . . . 20 

852 Missing 10 

855 Dolf s Big Brother 10 

980 In the Holidays, and The Name Cut on a Gate 10 

935 Under Life's Key, and Other Stories .^.v.T.j 20 

972 Into the Shade, and Other Stories . 30 

1011 My First Offer : ................. 10 

1014 Told in New England, and Other Tales. .......... 10 

1016 At the Seaside; or, A Sister's Sacrifice. ........... ...... . 10 

1220 Dorothy's Venture. 20 

1221 Among the Ruins, and Other Stories 10 

1431 " A Little Aversion " , ...... 10 

1549 Bid Me Discourse 10 

CHARLES LEVER'S WORKS. 

98 Harry Lorrequer „ . Stf 

132 Jack Hinton, the Guardsman. , . ....... . 20 

137 A Rent in a Cloud ; 10 

146 Charles O'Malley, the Irish Dragoon (Triple Number) , 30 

152 Arthur O'Leary 20 

168 ConCregan 20 

169 St. Patrick's Eve 10 

174 Kate O'Donoghue . . ..... 20 

257 That Boy of Norcott's. 10 

296 Tom Burke of *• Ours." First half 20 

296 Tom Burke of " Ours. " Second half. 20 

319 Davenport Dunn. First half .............. 20 

319 Davenport Duun. Second half 20 

464 Gerald Fitzgerald 20 

~~ M 



THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— OrMna^ Edition. 



470 The Fortunes of Glencore 20 

529 Lord Kilgobbin 20 

546 Maurice Tier nay 20 

566 A Day's Ride 20 

609 Barrington . 20 

633 Sir Jasper Carew, Knight 20 

657 The Martins of Cro' Martin. Part I. . 20 

657 The Martins of Cro' Martin. Part II 20 

822 Tony Butler. 20 

872 Luttrell of Arran. Part I 20 

872 Luttrell of Arran. Part II 20 

951 Paul Gosslett's Confessions 10 

965 One of Them. First half 20 

965 One of Them. Second half. 20 

989 Sir Brook Fossbrooke. Part 1 20 

989 Sir Brook Fossbrooke. Part II 20 

1235 The Bramleighs of Bishop's Folly 20 

1309 The Dodd Family Abroad. First half 20 

1309 The "Dodd Family Abroad. Second half 20 

1342 Horace Templeton 20 

1394 Roland Cashel. First half 20 

1394 Roland Cashel. Second half 20 

1496 The Daltons; or, Three Roads in Life. First half 20 

1496 The Daltons; or, Three Roads in Life. Second half 20 

GEORGE MACDONALD'S WORKS. 

455 Paul Faber, Surgeon 20 

491 Sir Gibbie 20 

595 The Annals of a Quiet Neighborhood 20 

606 The Seaboard Parish , 20 

627 Thomas Wingfold, Curate 20 

643 The Vicar's Daughter 20 

668 David Elginbrod 20 

677 St. George and St. Michael 20 

790 Alec Forbes of Howglen 20 

887 Malcolm 20 

922 Mary Marston 20 

938 Guild Court. A London Story 20 

948 The Marquis of Lossie 20 

962 Robert Falconer. 20 

1375 Castle Warlock: A Homely Romance 20 





THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary fflitio?i. 



1439 Adela Cathcart 20 

1466 The Gifts of the Child Christ, and Other Tales 10 

1488 The Princess and Curdie. A Girl's Story 10 

1498 Weighed and Wanting 20 

1884 Donal Grant . .. 20 

1921 The Portent 10 

1922 Phantastes: A Faerie Romance for Men and Women 10 

MRS. OLIPHANTS WORKS. 

136 Katie Stewart 10 

210 Young Musgrave 20 

391 The Primrose Path° 20 

452 An Odd Couple 10 

475 Heart and Cross 10 

488 A Beleaguered City . 10 

497 For Love and Life 20 

511 Squire Arden 20 

542 The Story of Valentine and His Brother 20 

596 Caleb Field 10 

651 Madonna Mary 20 

665 The Fugitives 10 

680 The Greatest Heiress in England. . . . 20 

706 Earthbound 10 

775 The Queen (Illustrated) 10 

785 Orphans 10 

802 Phcebe, Junior. A Last Chronicle of Carlingford 20 

875 No. 3 Grove Road . 10 

881 He That Will Not When He May 20 

919 May , 20 

959 Miss Marjoribanks. Part 1 20 

959 Miss Marjoribanks. Part II 20 

1004 Harry Joscelyn 20 

1017 Carita 20 

1049 In Trust 20 

1215 Brownlows 20 

1319 Lady Jane 10 

1396 Whiteladies 20 

1407 A Rose in June 10 

1449 A Little Pilgrim 10 

1547 It Was a Lover and His Lass 20 

1647 The Ladies Lindores 20 

ft — . 



TEE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary Edition. 



1662 Salem ChapeL. , 20 

1669 The Minister's Wife. First half. 20 

1669 The Minister's Wife. Second half 20 

1680 The Wizard's Son 20 

1697 The Lady's Walk 10 

1703 Sir Tom 20 

1794 A Son of the Soil 20 

( 1798 Hester: A Story of Contemporary Life 20 

1804 The Laird of Norlaw.. 20 

'1919 The Prodigals: And Their Inheritance 10 

1935 Memoirs and Resolutions of Adam Graeme of Mossgray, 

Including Some Chronicles of the Borough of Fendie. . . 20 

1937 Madam 10 

1945 The House on the Moor 20 

"OUIDA'S" WORKS/ 

49 Granville de Vigne; or, Held in Bondage 20 

54 Under Two Flags 20 

55 In a Winter City 10 

56 Strathmore 20 

59 Chandos 20 

61 Bebee; or, Two Little Wooden Shoes 10 

62 Folle-Farine 20 

71 Ariadne — The Story of a Dream 20 

181 Beatrice Boville 10 

211 Randolph Gordon 10 

230 Little Grand and the Marchioness. 10 

241 Tricotrin 20 

249 Cecil Castlemaine's Gage. 10 

279 A Leaf in the Storm, and Other Tales 10 

\ 281 Lady Marabout's Troubles 10 

334 Puck 20 

377 Friendship 20 

379 Pascarel [. 20 

386 Signa 20 

389 Idalia 20 

563 A Hero's Reward 10 

676 Umilta 10 

699 Moths 20 

791 Pipistrello • 10 

864 Findelkind 10 

u 



THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary Edition. 



915 A Village Commune 20 

1025 The Little Earl 10 

1247 In Maremma... 20 

1334 Bimbi 10 

1586 Frescoes 10 

1625 Wanda, Countess von Szalras 20 

1755 Afternoon, and Other Sketches 10 

1851 Princess Napraxine 20 

CHARLES READE'S WORKS. 

4 A Woman-Hater. 20 

19 A Terrible Temptation 10 

21 Foul Play 20 

24 " It is Never Too Late to Mend " . . 20 

31 Love Me Little, Love Me Long 20 

34 A Simpleton 10 

41 White Lies 20 

78 Griffith Gaunt .. 20 

86 Put Yourself in His Place 20 

112 Very Hard Cash 20 

208 The Cloister and the Hearth 20 

237 The Wandering Heir 10 

246 Peg Woffington 10 

270 The Jilt 10 

371 Christie Johnstone 10 

536 Jack of all Trades 10 

1204 Clouds and Sunshine 10 

1322 The Knightsbridge Mystery 10 

1390 Singleheart and Doubleface. A Matter-of -Fact Romance .. . 10 

1817 Readiana: Comments on Current Events 10 

1853 Love and Money; or, A Perilous Secret 20 

SIR WALTER SCOTT'S WORKS. 

39 Ivanhoe 20 

183 Kenil worth 20 

196 Heart of Mid-Lothian 20 

593 The Talisman 20 

723 Guy Mannering 20 

857 Waverley 20 

920 Rob Roy ... 20 

1007 Quentin Durward ,20 

1* 



THE SEASIDE LIBBARY.—Ordinary Edition, 



1082 Count Robert of Paris 20 

1275 Old Mortality 30 

1328 The Antiquary 20 

1399 The Pirate 20 

1462 The Betrothed: A Tale of the Crusaders, and The Chron- 
icles of the Canongate 20 

1598 Redgauntlet. A Tale of the Eighteenth Century 20 

1701 The Monastery 20 

1702 The Abbot (Sequel to "The Monastery") 20 

1827 The Fair Maid of Perth 20 

1831 St. Ronan's Well 20 

1848 The Black Dwarf, and A Legend of Montrose 20 

1865 Peveril of the Peak 30 

ANTHONY TROLLOPE'S WORKS. 

12 The American Senator 20 

399 The Lady of Launay 10 

530 Sir Harry Hotspur of Humblethwaite 20 

531 John Caldigate 20 

601 Cousin Henry 10 

768 The Duke's Children 20 

870 An Eye for an Eye 10 

910 Dr. Wortle's School 10 

944 Miss Mackenzie 20 

1047 Ayala's Angel ,. 20 

1090 Barchester Towers 20 

1201 Phineas Finn. First half 20 

1201 Phineas Finn. Second half 20 

1206 Doctor Thorne. First half 20 

1206 Doctor Thorne. Second half 20 

1217 Lady Anna 20 

1255 The Fixed Period 10 

1283 Why Frau Frohmann Raised Her Prices, and Other Stories. 10 

1292 Marion Fay 20 

1306 The Struggles of Brown, Jones & Robinson 20 

1318 Orley Farm. First half 20 

1318 Orley Farm. Second half 20 

1348 The Belton Estate. . . . 20 

1419 Kept in the Dark 10 

1436 The Kellys and The O'Kellys 20 

1450 The Two Heroines of Plumplington. 10 

*o. 



1HE SEASIDE LIBRARY.-- Ordinary Edition. 



1455 The Macdermots of Bally cloran 20 

14-73 Castle Richmond 20 

1486 Phineas Redux. First half 20 

1486 Phineas Redux. Second half 20 

1494 The Vicar of Bullhampton 20 

1511 Not If I Know It 10 

1551 Is He Popenjoy? 20 

1559 The Small House at Allington. First half 20 

1559 The Small House at Allington. Second half 20 

.1567 The Last Chronicle of Barset. First half 20 

1567 The Last Chronicle of Barset. Second half 20 

1634 The Way We Live Now. First half 20 

1634 The Way We Live Now. Second half , 20 

1656 Mr. Scarborough's Family 20 

1685 Alice Dugdale. 10 

1707 The Land Leaguers 20 

1728 Anthony Trollope's Autobiography 20 

1756 Rachel Ray 20 

1802 Framley Parsonage 20 

1805 La Mere Bauche 10 

1816 An Old Man's Love. 10 

JULES VERNE'S WORKS. 

5 The Black-Indies ;. 10 

16 The English at the North Pole : 10 

43 Hector Servadac 10 

57 The Castaways; or, A Voyage Round the World— South 

America 10 

60 The Castaways; or, A Voyage Round the World— Australia 10 
64 The Castaways; or, A Voyage Round the World— New 

Zealand 10 

68 Five Weeks in a Balloon 10 

72 Meridiana, and The Blockade Runners 10 

75 The Fur Country. Part I 10 

75 The Fur Country. Part II 10 

84 20,000 Leagues Under the Seas . ; 10 

87 A Journey to the Centre of the Earth 10 

90 The Mysterious Island— Dropped from the Clouds. 10 

93 The Mysterious Island— The Abandoned. 10 

97 The Mysterious Island— The Secret of the Island 10 

99 From the Earth to the Moon 10 

*a 



THE SEASIDE LIBRARY.— Ordinary Edition. 



Ill A Tour of the World in Eighty Days. 10 

131 Michael Strogoff -10 

1092 Michael Strogoff (large type, illustrated edition) 20 

414 Dick Sand; or, Captain at Fifteen. Part I 10 • 

414 Dick Sand; or, Captain at Fifteen. Part II 10 

466 Great Voyages and Great Navigators. Part 1 10 

466 Great Voyages and Great Navigators. Part II 10 

466 Great Voyages and Great Navigators. Part III 20 

505 The Field of Ice (Illustrated) 10 

510 The Pearl of Lima 10 

530 Round the Moon (Illustrated) 10 

634 The 500 Millions of the Begum 10 

647 Tribulations of a Chinaman 10 

673 Dr. Ox's Experiment 10 

710 Survivors of the Chancellor 10 

818 The Steam-House; or, A Trip Across Northern India. 

Part I 10 

818 The Steam-House; or, A Trip Across Northern India. 

Part II 10 

1043 The Jangada; or, Eight Hundred Leagues over the Ama- 
zon. Part 1 10 

1043 The Jangada; or, Eight Hundred Leagues over the Ama- 
zon. Part II 10 

1519 Robinsons' School 10 

1677 The Headstrong Turk. First half 10 

1677 The Headstrong Turk. Second half 10 

1716 The Green Ray 10 

The above works contained in The Seaside Library, Ordinary Edition,, are 



for sale by all newsdealers, or will be sent to any address, postage free, on 
receipt of 12 cents for single numbers, and 25 cents for double numbers, by 
the publisher. Parties ordering by mail will please order by numbers. 

GEORGE MUNROi Publisher, j 

p. p. Box 3751. 17 to 27 Vandewater St., N. Y. 



18 



MUNRO'S PUBLICATIONS. 



'HE SEASIDE LEBEARY— POCKET EDITION. 



[CONTINUED FROM FOURTH PAGE.] 



PRICE. 

'lie Mystery. By Mrs. Henry Wood. 15 
Mr. Smith: A. Part of His Life. By 

L B. Walforil 15 

Beyond Recall. By Adeline Sergeant 10 

Cousins. By L. B. Walforil 20 

The Bride of Monte-Cristo. A Sequel 
to "The Count of Monte-Cristo," 

By Alexander Dumas 10 

Proper Pride. By 1>. M. Croker 10 

A Fair Maid. Bv F. W. Robinson.... 20 
The Count of Monte-Cristo. Parti. 

Bv Alexander Dumas 20 

The Count of Monte-Cristo. Part II. 

By Alexander Dumas 20 

Anlshmaelite. By MissM. E. Braddou 15 
Bjedouehe. A French Detective. By 

Fortune Du Boisgobey 10 

Judith Shakespeare: Her Love Af- 
fairs and Other Adventures. By 

William Black 15 

The Water-Babies. A Firiry Tale for 
a Land-Bab3\ By the Rev. Charles 

Kingsley 10 

Laurel A'ane; or. The Girls' Cou- 
spiracy. By Mrs. Alex. McVeigli 

Miller 20 

Lady Gay's Pride; or, The Miser's 
Treasure. By Mrs. Alex. McVeigh 

Miller 20 

Lancaster's Choice. By Mrs. Alex. 

McVeigh Miller ' 20 

The Wandering Jew. Parti. By Eu- 
gene Sue 20 

The Wandering Jew. Part II. By 

Eugene Sue 20 

the Mysteries of Paris. Parti. By 

Eugene Sue .'. 20 

The Mysteries of Paris. Part II. By 

Eugene Sue 20 

The Little Savage. Captain Marry at 10 
Love and Mirage: or.- The Wailing on 

an Island. By M. Bel ham Edwards 10 
Alice. Grand Duchess of Hesse, Prin- 
cess of Great, Britain and Ireland. 
Biographical Sketch and Letters... 10 
The Three Brides. Charlotte M. Yonge 10 
Under the Lilies and Roses. Bv Flor- 
ence Marryat (Mrs. Francis lieanL. 10 
The Surgeon's Daughters. Bv Mrs. 
Henry Wood. A. Man of His' Word. 

By W. E. Norris 10 

For Life and Love. Bv Alison 10 

Little Goldie. Mrs. Sumner Harden 20 
Omnia Yanitas. A. Tale of Society. 

Bv Alis. Forrester 10 

The Squire's Legacy. By Mary Cecil 

Hay " 15 

Donal Grant. By George Mac-Donald 15 
The gin of a Lifetime. By the author 

of "DoraThorne " . . . '. 10 

Doris. Bv "The Duchess " 10 

The Gambler's Wife 20 

[continued on last 



NO. PRICE. 

280 Deldee; or.The Iron Hand. F. Warden 20 

287 At War With Herself. By the author 

of " Dora Thorne " 10 

288 From Gloom to Sunlight. By the au- ' 

thor of '• Dora Thorne " 10 

289 John Bull's Neighbor in Her True 

Light. By a " Brutal Saxon " 10 

290 Nora's Love Test. By Mary Cecil Hay 20 

291 Love's Warfare. By the author of 

" Dora Thorne " 10 

292 A Golden Heart. By the author of 

" Dora Thorne " 10 

293 The Shadow of a Sin. By the author 

of "DoraThorne" 10 

294 Hilda. By the aulhor of "Dora 

Thorne" 10 

295 A Woman's War. By the author of 

"DoraThorne" 10 

296 A Rose in Thorns. By the author 

of "DoraThorne" 10 

297 Hilary's Folly. By the author of 

" Dora Thorne " 10 

298 Mitchelhurst Place. By Margaret 

Veley 10 

299 The Fatal Lilies, and A Bride from 

the Sea. By the author of "Dora 
Thorne " 10 

300 A Gilded Sin. and A Bridge of Love. 

By theauthorof "DoraThorne "... 10 

301 Dark Davs. By Hugh Conway.. . .... 10 

3J2 The Blatchford Bequest. By Hugh 

Conway 10 

303 Iimledew House, and More Bitter than 

Death. By (he author of "Dora 
Thorne" 10 

304 In Cupid's Net. By the author cf 

" Dora. Thorne " 10 

305 A Dead Heart, and Lady Gwendo- 

line's Dream. By the' author of 

" Dora. Thorne " 10 

30G A Golden Dawn, and Love for a, Day. 

By l lie aulhor of " Dora Thorne '". . 10 

307 Two Kisses, and Like No Other Love. 

By the aulhor of "Dora Thorne ".. 10 

308 B.yond Pardon 20 

309 The Pathfinder. By J. Fenimoie 

Cooper 20 

310 The Prairie. Bv J. Feniniore Cooper iO 

311 Two Years Before the Mast. By R. 

II. Dana. Jr 20 

312 A Week in Killarney. By "The 

Duchess 1 ' 10 

313 The Lover s Creed. By Mrs. Cashel 

Hoey 15 

314 Peril. By Jessie Foihergill ^'0 

315 The Mistletoe Bougn. Edited by 

Miss M. E. Braddon '. 20 

316 Sworn to Silence; or, Aline Roilnev's 

Secret. Bv Mrs. Alex. McVeigh 
Miller 20 

317 Bv Mead and Stream. By Charles 

Gibbon 20 

PAGE OF COVER.] 



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